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THESE 


JOURNAL    LETTERS 


WRITTEN     POR    THK 


EXCLUSIVE  GRATIFICATION   OF  OUR  C  II I  L  I)  R  K  N 


FRIENDS    AT     HOME, 


AND     ARE     NOW     FOR     THEIR     PLEASURE, 


THEIR  I'IMKNT  It!  Q! 


VVT     IN      THIS      MORE      r>  U  R  V  B  I.  E      FuRJI. 


I  LLUSTR ATI O  N  S 


I 'age. 
ROSS  CASTLE,   KILLARNEY,       ....  29 

THE  BEGGARS  OF  MULLAMACUDDY   REEKS, 

ARMAGH   CATHEDRAL 44 

OLD   WALLS  OF  THE  CITY  OF  CHESTER,     .  44 

WALKER'S   MONUMENT .48 

THE  JAUNTING-CAR, 

CHARING    CROSS   STATION', 61 

GALLERY   OF   THE   LOUVRE 82 

FONTAINEBLEAU, 86 

MARIE   ANTOINETTE   IN   THE  CONCIERGERIE,       . 

TU1LERIES, .  .       101 

EXAMINATION    OF   BAGGAGE,  ...  .  .  119 

A*  MACHINE, 

PECULIARITIES  OF   HOLLAND   DRESS,.  132 

STOLZENFELS, 155 

THE   BENCH    AND    BAR    ON   A    FROLIC,  .  155 

DONKEY-RIDE  AT  STOLZENFELS,  

GERMAN   BED .  ■- 

KURSAAL  AT   HOMBURG,  .  ... 

MINERAL  SPRINGS,       .... 

LUTHER'S   HOUSE,   FRANKFORT,        ... 

DER   DOM,  AND    ELM    TREE    AT    WORMS, 

STUDENTS'  CLUB-RUOM    AT    HEIDELBERG, 


ILL  US  TEA  T I  0  N8. 


Page. 


MEETING   BY   MOONLIGHT,.  .  .  .  189 

RUINS  OF  THE   CASTLE,  HEIDELBERG,      .  189 

GAMBLING  SCENE  AT   BADEN,       .  .  196 

RECOLLECTIONS   OF   THE   LAKE   OF   LUCERNE,  208 

THE   LAKE   OF    LUCERNE,     .....  .208 

HOTEL  AT   GIESSBACH,     .  .  ...  .220 

FALLS   OF   GIESSBACH, .220 

FALLS   OF  STAUBBACH,     .  .220 

CHALET  OF  THE   HANDECK, 244 

THE  GRIMSEL  HOSPICE, .  .  ....      244 

BRIGUE, 244 

JACOB   SNYDER,  AND   HIS   ONE   HORSE   CHAISE,  .  .252 

FEMALE  IN  SION-VALAIS.— THE   ALP    HORN,  .  .  252 

THE   LADDERS   OF  ALBINEM, 254 

LEUK,  AND   THE   BATHS,        ....  .254 

DOCTOR   MERLE   D'AUBIGNE,    .  .  ....       266 

DOCTOR  SAMUEL   HANSON  COX,  .  ...  266 

REV.  ALBERT   BARNES,     ...  .  .      266 

OUR  AMERICAN   SUPPER   AT   GENEVA,  .  .  268 

PLAN   OF   PARIS, 287 

TOMB  OF   NAPOLEON    I.,    • 3°° 

CHATEAU,  MALMAISON,    .  ...  300 

THE  GREAT   BRITON,  .  .  ....  324 

CAN'T   REMEMBER   THE   NUMBER   OF   HIS   ROOM,      .  .  324 

SHAKESPEARE'S  HOME,   STRATFORD-ON-AVON,  353 

SIGHT-SEEING   IN   ENGLAND,    .  353 


1 


Ijaitt^  ^ttm. 


Mailed  at  Queenstovm,  Ireland, 
Jura   19,  1867. 

Deab  Children  and  Friends  at  Home: 

All  that  I  can  now  remember,  of  the  hundred 
and  one  things  that  we  were  charged  to  perform  by 
every  individual  member  of  the  family,  is  this:  that 
we  were  to  write  often,  each  day,  and  to  be  sure 
not  to  forget  the  smallest  item,  or  the  most  minute 
particular  of  all  that  we  saw,  experienced,  or  could 
by  close  observation  discover;  and  that  we  pledged 
ourselves  to  follow  out  these  wishes  in  all  their  de- 
tails, with  this  proviso,  if  health  and  circumstan  3 
would  permit.  Ah!  what  would  we  not  have  prom- 
ised under  such  a  pressure  of  feeling!  what  request 
could  we  have  l«>und  it  in  our  hearts  to  deny  to  thi 
we  love  so  well — the  dear  little  hand  that  followed 
ns  iV<»m  Somerville,  on  the  morning  of  Saturday,  the 
8th  of  June,  the  day  that  we  sailed  from  New  York. 
in  the  " City  of  London,"  at  twelve  meridian,  hound 
for  Liverpool. 


10  HOME     LETTERS. 

It  was  the  saddest  day  and  parting  that  we  ever 
experienced !  and  the  memory  of  its  sadness  is  not 
pleasant  to  recall,  even  now.  Dear  little  Perrin's  tear- 
ful face  and  convulsive  weeping  nearly  broke  my  heart, 
when  he  said :  "  Ma!  ma !  don't  go!  please,  dorit  go!" 

As  the  city  gradually  faded  away  in  the  dim  dis- 
tance, and  we  could  no  longer  distinguish  the  reced- 
ing forms  of  the  little  group  standing  at  the  end  of 
the  long  pier,  waving  their  last  fond  adieus,  freighted 
with  blessings  for  us,  our  sad  reveries  were  broken  by 
the  sharp  stroke  of  the  bell,  calling  us  below  to  lunch. 

Neither  J or  myself  felt  much  inclined  to  answer 

the  summons,  but  Common  Sense,  sturdy  old  fellow! 
suggested  the  propriety  of  putting  aside  our  mental 
disquietude  and  looking  a  little  after  our  physical 
necessities,  if  we  expected  to  derive  any  real  benefit 
from  the  sea-voyage  on  which  we  were  just  entering. 

Seated  at  table,  soup  and  bread  were  first  offered; 
then  crackers  and  cheese — nothing  more.  It  was 
enough,  too  much,  for  me ;  three  spoonfuls  of  the  olea- 
ginous compound  sent  me  off  in  a  hurry,  out  of  the 
saloon,  to  the  deck  above,  and  over  to  the  side  rail 
of  the  vessel — for  what  purpose  I  shall  leave  your 
own  imagination  to  suggest.  Pity  'tis,  'tis  true !  I 
was  inwardly  persuaded  that  a  great  vacuum  had  been 
produced  by  the  process,  and  fully  conscious  of  the 
necessity  to  find  a  resting-place  somewhere,  anywhere ; 

for  lie  down  I  must.     So  J was  off  in  a  minute  to 

hunt  up  the  Purser;  but  as  he  Avas  the  official  per- 
sonage who  was  expected  to  remedy  all  evils  and  correct 
all  mistakes,  it  was  not  so  easy  a  matter  to  find  his 
whereabouts.  However,  after  a  half  hour's  delay, 
he  answered  the  summons,  and  announced  himself  as 
quite  willing  to  oblige  and  accommodate  us  in  any  way 
that  lay  in  his  power.     We  stated  our  dissatisfaction 


FROM     ABROAD.  U 

in  regard  to  the  Location  and  size  of  our  Btate-room, 
and  he  proffered  the  use  of  the  Surgeon's  quarters,  with- 
out an  extra  charge,  or  the  Captain's  parlor  and  state- 
room, a1  an  advance  of  fifty  dollars  in  gold :  we  declined 
the  latter,  bu1  accepted  the  first  proposal  as  in  every 
way  more  desirable  and  comfortable  than  the  one  first 
assigned  to  as;  it  being  much  larger,  better  ventilated, 
and  away  from  and  out  of  hearing  of  garrulous  old 
ladies  and  peevish,  fretful  children.  It  has  Bpace  for 
six  berths,  but  three  have  been  removed,  so  that  we 
have  quite  a  large  dressing-room,  as  large  as  our  little 
hall-ro<»m  at  home;  I  am  dow  seated  on  our  valise  in 
the  centre;  my  dress,  extended,  covers  nearly  all  the 
available  space;  the  figure  of  the  carpel  is  ugly  in  de- 
sign and  dingy  in  coloring,  and  our  wash-stand  is  of 
the  mosl  primitive  construction — onlya  square  wooden 
box,  deep  enough  to  hold  all  the  waste  water,  with  a 
depressed  lid  to  secure  the  basin  from  slipping.  "Tabby 
Jones"  is  our  servitor  and  worthy  attendant  :  a  good 
old  soul,  willing  and  obliging,  but  so  forgetful  about 
thoS(  clean  towels  that  he  always  intends  to  bring;  yet 
thoroughly  reliable  when  he  is  charged  to  taste  the  hit- 
ters that  are  ordered  each  day  for  the  convalescent 
patients  under  his  care. 

At  dinner  hour,  {Saturday})  four  o'clock,  I  wassnugly 
stowed  away  in  my  berth,  too  sick  even  to  make  the 
effort  to  undress  myself;  and  there  I  remained  until 
Sunday  evening,  when  I  managed,  with  no  little  dis- 
comfort, to  put  on  the  wrapper  that  Cousin  Sallie  bo 
kindly  provided  for  my  use. 

J kept  tip  until  Sabbath  morning,  when  he  had 

to  confess  that  he  "felt  decidedly  Bhaky  and  squeamish." 
The  storm  set  in  about  five  o'clock  on  Saturday,  and 
continued  up  to  Monday  morning;  the  wind  blowing 
furiously  and  the  sea  washing  the  upper  decks  all  day 


U  ROME     LETTERS. 

long.  ]N"o  one  inexperienced  could  be  out;  and  the 
passengers,  with  the  exception  of  a  half-dozen,  perhaps, 
were  sick  and  confined  to  their  berths.  The  two  physi- 
cians were  constantly  in  attendance ;  I  could  hear,  from 
my  open  transom,  the  forlorn  people  whose  quarters 
were  near  to  our  own  calling,  "  Oh  1  Doctor,  do  come,  I 
am  so  sick,  I  shall  surely  die  if  you  can't  do  something 
for  me."  The  response,  in  a  cheery  tone,  was,  "  Oh ! 
you  will  be  all  the  better  when  you  get  this  sour  stuff 
off  your  stomach ;  I  promise  you  won't  die  this  time." 

J and  I  probably  suffered  less  than  most  others — 

neither  of  us  have  been  sick  since  Tuesday ;  then  the 
sun  came  out  brightly  and  we  were  able  to  be  upon 
the  promenade  deck.  One  of  the  drollest  and  most 
laughable  sights  that  I  ever  witnessed,  was  in  watch- 
ing these  poor  distressed  sick  people,  men,  women  and 
children,  as  they  were  brought  out  for  an  airing, — all 
wrapped  about  with  shawls,  blankets  and  robes,  until 
only  their  eyes  were  visible,  they  really  looked  more 
like  Egyptian  mummies  than  living  beings,  propped 
and  supported  as  they  were,  by  pillows,  against  the 
side  rail  of  the  steamer;  it  was  a  very  comical  and 
dolorous  sight  I  assure  you  ;  and  it  makes  me  laugh,  as 
I  recall  it,  in  connection  with  another  incident,  that 
amuses  me  now,  but  at  the  time  I  thought  it  anything 

but  funny.     We,  that  is  J ,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  B , 

Miss  W ,  Mr.  K ,  and  myself,  were  seated  be- 
side the  smoke-flue — for  warmth — when,  without  a 
moment's  warning,  the  vessel  made  a  sudden  plunge, 
and  a  huge  breaker  came  over  the  side  of  the  ship, 
enveloping  us  all  completely,  and  drenching  us  from 
head  to  toe ;  as  soon  as  I  recovered  from  the  shock,  I 
scampered  off  to  my  state-room,  and  there  spent  two 
hours  in  rubbing  the  velvet  on  my  dress,  performing 
the  service  in  a  merry  mood,  though  feeling  aggrieved 


FB  0  it     A  B  B  OA  />.  1$ 

thai  friends  who  were  better  informed  about  Buch 
matters,  had  not  suggested  what  kind  of  material 
was  besl  adapted  to  jnst  such  a  contingency.  Water- 
proof is  the  most  serviceable,  and  the  skirl  Bhonld 
have  a  wide  hem  at  the  bottom,  filled  in  with  Bhot 
t<>  give  it  weight  and  prevent  the  wind  from  blowing 
it  about;  no  kind  of  "fancy  attire"  will  do  at  Bea; 
my  hat  is  of  no  use  to  me,  the  wind  would  carry  it 

away  in  two  seconds.     Let  me  daguen type  myself — 

I  doubt  if  you  will  recognize  me.  My  hair  is  combed 
Btraight  hack:  water-falls,  plaits  and  crimp-  are  all 
put   aside,  as  vanities  pertaining  to  terra  firnia ;   the 

first    article   of  head-gear   that   I   put    on    is   J *s 

large  (not  red-silk)  handkerchief,  tied  under  the  chin; 
over  that  I  draw  my  water-proof  hood,  and  to  secure 
both,  I  have  the  scarf  deal-  sister  Jennie  put  aboul  my 
neck  at  parting;  my  cloth  sack  is  under  the  cloak, 
which  I  keep  closely  buttoned ;  and  yet  with  all  th< 
wrappings  I  am  cold.  You  have  no  conception  of  the 
penetrating  chilliness  of  this  sea  atmosphere;  I  wish 
now,  I  had  brought  with  me  my  blanket  shawl:  more 
experienced  travellers  have  with  them  all  these  essen- 
tial comforts.  We  shall  do  better  on  our  return,  and 
provide  ourselves  with  all  that  may  be  necessary. 
Perhaps,  taking  the  advice  of  our  good    friend   Mr. 

K ,  we  will  make  our  purchases  in  Glasgow,  where 

all  woollen  goods  can  be  bought  at  half  price. 

Now  when  T  think  of  it,  I  must  tell  you.  as  I  can 
without  vanity,  (this  gentleman  is  over  seventy  years 
of  age,)  he  has  taken  a  desperate  fancy  to  your  Bcribe  ; 
and  in  one  of  his  very  confidential  moods  told  me.  that 
his  property  was  worth  "over  a  million  of  dollars." 
Who  can  tell,  hut  this  may  he  the  turning  point  in  my 
good  fortune;  if  so,  here  is  my  pledge,  you  shall  all 
come  in  for  an  equal  share,     lie  has  proposed  to  J 


U  HOME     LETTERS. 


that  we  get  off  at  Queenstown,  and  travel  through  Ire- 
land in  company.    His  grandson,  K G ,  has  his 

person  and  purse  in  charge ;  and  he  has  evinced  better 
taste  than  his  grandfather,  by  falling  in  love  with  Miss 
"W ,  who  is  the  daughter  of  an  Episcopal  clergy- 
man of  Chicago,  and  is  going  out  to  spend  a  year  in 
Paris  with  a  married  sister  who  resides  there.  Speak- 
ing of  Mr.  Iv ,  I  should  have  mentioned  that  the 

only  article  of  wearing  apparel  in  his  possession  which 
he  seemed  to  value  especially,  was  his  new  hat — black 
and  glossy- — that  he  purchased  expressly  for  this  jour- 
ney, as  he  said,  "  to  give  him  a  smart  look  among  the 
ladies  ;"  his  careful  grandson,  to  prevent  accident,  had 
secured  it  with  a  piece  of  twine  to  his  buttonhole.  On 
that  memorable  Tuesday  when  we  were  all  submerged 
and  drenched  by  the  breakers,  the  poor  old  gentleman 
was  turned  topsy-turvy  over  against  the  smoke-pipe, 
his  clothing  completely  saturated,  his  beautiful  new 
chapeau — his  pride  and  glory — was  crushed  as  flat  as  a 
flounder ;  gathering  himself  up  in  a  dilapidated  con- 
dition, too  much  exhausted  to  express  in  words  his 
great  discomfort,  he  looked  the  very  picture  of  despon- 
dency, contemplating  the  ruin  of  what  was  once  the 
crowning  point  of  his  pride ;  his  appearance  was  ludi- 
crous in  the  extreme,  and  we  all  laughed,  of  course. 
After  that,  as  a  penance  for  our  apparent  rudeness,  I 
tried  to  put  it  in  better  condition,  but  I  could  not 
restore  its  pristine  beauty. 

A  gentleman  on  the  vessel,  who  has  crossed  the  ocean 
thirteen  times,  says  lie  never  had  so  rough  a  passage. 
Saturday,  Sunday  and  Monday,  it  was  very  stormy,  the 
sea  running  very  high,  pitching  the  vessel  about  fright- 
fully. Tuesday,  "Wednesday  and  to-day  (Thursday) 
have  been  more  pleasant  than  the  two  former  days ;  I 
spent  most  of  the  time  on  deck,  but  to-day  it  is  too  cold, 


fro  m    A  B  no  ad.  ;.: 

and  I  have  no1  ventured  up.  This  is  the  firsl  timi  I 
have  attempted  to  write,  and  even  now  I  find  it  very 
difficult,  tin'  motion  of  the  vessel  is  so  greal  thai  the 
letter-  seem  all  to  be  dancing  before  my  eyes.  Tuesday 
was  the  firsl  day  thai  I  fell  equal  to  the  efforl  of  dress- 
ing and  going  to  table;  the  little  thai  I  was  inclined 
t<>  eat  was  broughl  to  me  by  the  stewardess,  a  kind, 
motherly  «>M  body;  she  made  the  tea,  but  it  had  not 
the  flavor  of  Mary's;  its  greatest  recommendation:  it 
was  always  hot.  The  beef  tea  [could  uo1  abide:  sol 
was  restricted  to  my  neuralgic  bill  of  tare,  which  was 

g 1  enough.     J has  not  missed  ;i  single  meal,  ami 

is  getting  along  nicely,  and  is  now  sleeping  beside  me 
as  I  write.  This  trip  I  feel  is  going  to  do  him  a  world 
of  good.  Our  table  arrangements  are  all  in  accordance 
with  English  taste  and  habits;  our  daily  hill  of  fare 
includes  roasl  beef,  roast  mutton,  beefsteak-puddings, 
beefsteak  and  onions,  pork  and  onion-,  Lamb  with  mint 
dressing,  English  pickles  and  cheese,  porter  and  ale  in 
abundance  to  wash  it  all  down  ,•  these  and  a  do/en 
other  unknown  and  villanous  compounds,  thai  are 
better  outside  than  inside  the  stomach,  at  least,  than 
in  mine.  The  English  people  have  a  wonderful  capa- 
city tor  gastronomic  achievements,  and  two  stoul  Eng- 
lishmen with  their  comfortable  looking  wive-,  who  sir 
opposite  us  a1  table,  exceed  all  other  people  thai  1  have 
ever  met,  and  attract  so  much  of  my  attention  and 
create  such  a  disgusl  in  mv  mind  and  stomach  hv  their 
gormandizing, that  sometimes  I  feel  disposed  not  to  eat 
at  all.    Yesterday, Captain  Brookssent  hisservanl  with 

his  compliments  and  wine  at   dinner,  J declining,  I 

drank  his  portion  in  acknowledgment  ^\'  the  kindness. 
We  have  aboul  a  hundred  and  fifty  passengers  in  the 
cabin,  and  how  many  in  the  steerage  1  do  not  know. 
Among  this  large  number,  as  you  will  imagine,  may 


IS  HOME     LETTERS. 

be  found  a  great  variety  of  character — good,  better 
best,  or  worse  and  more  of  it ;  some  are  ugly,  few 
pretty,  the  larger  number  passably  good  looking.     One 

very  fat  old  lady,  (Mrs.  D ,  the  wife  of  an  English 

clergyman,)  her  son  and  daughter,  and  their  two  maid 
servants,  have  contributed  more  to  our  amusement  and 
entertainment  than  they  are  aware.  They  have  all 
been   sick,  very  sick,  the   maids   included,   which   in 

Mrs.  D 's  judgment  they  have  no  right  to  be  ;  and 

she  scolded  them  roundly  for  imposing  themselves  upon 
her,  deceiving  her,  as  she  said,  by  saying  that  they 
would  not  get  sea  sick,  knowing  that  she  would  not 
have  employed  them  if  she  had  been  so  informed.  The 
poor  girls  were  in  dismay  ;  her  exactions  were  so  un- 
reasonable, and  her  impatience  increased  in  proportion 
to  the  size  of  her  ponderous  body,  which  no  ordinary 
state-room  berth  could  accommodate,  so  the  Stewardess 
had  every  night  to  place  two  sofas,  side  by  side,  in  the 
ladies'  cabin,  for  her  especial  convenience.  Now,  this 
cabin,  is  a  thoroughfare  open  to  all,  at  least  until  Mrs. 

D is   put   to    bed ;    after  that,   if    you   can   get 

through,  you  may  consider  yourself  fortunate.  Before 
she  composes  herself  to  sleep  you  may  hear  her  call 
"  Stewardess,  please  see  if  my  Lambie,  (her  daughter)  is 
asleep ;  and  Stewardess,  do  see  if  she  is  well  tucked  in, 
and  ask  her  how  she  feels."  So  her  tongue  ran  on  for 
two  or  three  days  and  nights,  until  she  got  over  her 
sea  sickness.  Yesterday  she  was  well  enough  to  make 
her  appearance  at  dinner,  but  poor  old  lady !  a  sad 
accident  befell  her.  She  had  finished  her  dinner :  her 
husband  on  one  side  and  her  son  on  the  other,  stood 
waiting  to  assist  her  to  rise  ;  when  lo !  and  behold  ! 
not  even  with  Captain  Brooks'  help  could  she  be  ex- 
tricated, the  dinner  occupying  so  much  more  space 
than  had   been   calculated   for.     Only  one   alternative 


FROM     ABROAD.  /; 

remained;  the  Bhip's  joiner  was  senl  for,  and  he  v.-i-y 
soon  se1  the  old  lady  nt  liberty  by  Qnscrewing  the  seat ; 
since  that,  she  occupies  a  stool  al  the  end  of  the  table, 
and  qo  further  restrictions  are  imposed  upon  her 
heal!  by  appetite. 

Friday  morning,  Jum  //.  This  is  a  bright  clear 
morning  after  a  stormy  day  yesterday.  We  are  just 
through  breakfast,  a1  the  hour  of  ten  o'clock ;  our  lunch 
will  be  announced  at  twelve,  dinner  a1  four,  tea  at  seven, 
and  supper  a1  ten.  Now  that  all  the  passengers  are 
convalescent,  or  quite  well,  il  seems  to  be  a  continued 
round  of  eating,  and  most  of  them  seem  toenjoy  it  too; 
but  we  are  content  with  three  meals,  and  usually  restrict 
ourselves  to  those  dishes  thai  we  mosl   prefer  a1  home. 

J .  who  is  beside  me,  says,  "tell  them  thai  your 

appetite  is  v^ery  much  improved."     This  morning  I  had 

tea,  ham,  bread  and  butter;  J took  coffee,  fish  and 

potatoes.  The  supply  is  quite  abundant,  but  the  delay 
in  getting  what  you  wis]]  makes  the  food  less  palata- 
able,  as  it  generally  is  quite  cold  before  it  reaches  you. 
I  have  discovered  no  new  dishes  thai  I  should  desire  to 
imitate,  and  few  old  ones  that  are  as  well  prepared  as 
at  home.  Our  dinner  at  four  o'clock,  with  the  change 
of  plates  and  courses,  occupies  one  hour  and  a  half.      I 

have  said  to  J a  half  dozen   times,  thai  \  should 

enjoy  very  much  more  a  nice  broiled  beefsteak,  and  a 
good  home-made  cup  of  tea,  than  all  this  unnecessary 

variety  and  formal  routine.     Last  evening-,  J and 

I  sat  out  on  the  upper  deck  until  ten  o'clock;  the 
nighl  was  cloudy  but  mild  and  pleasant,  our  sails  were 
all  set,  the  wind  high  bul  favorable.  We  have  made 
just  half  the  distance  across  the  ocean]  what  a  very. 
very  long  journey  it  seems  to  be!  and  I  already  have  a 
dread  of  the  return  passage.     I  have  not  had  one  good 


IS  HOME     LETTERS. 

night's  rest,  no  not  one  ;  the  continuous  noises  that 
never  cease,  the  tremulous  flapping  of  the  rudder,  like 
the  tail  of  a  great  fish,  and  the  bump  of  every  stroke  of 
the  mammoth  engine  that  seems  to  be  just  under  our 
state-room,  keep  me  in  such  a  state  of  nervous  discom- 
fort that  I  cannot  rest.     J generally  sleeps  well, 

and  thinks  me  very  foolish  not  to  do  the  same ;  but  the 
sensations  are  probably  what  I  would  have  if  put  in  a 
mill  hopper,  going  round  and  round,  never  ceasing. 
Night  before  last  we  had  what  the  old  sailors  call  a 
cross  sea,  (and  cross  it  was !)  a  side  motion  slow  and 
oily  that  carried  my  head  first  down,  down  ten  feet  it 
seemed  to  me,  and  then  up,  up  to  about  the  same  eleva- 
tion, until  I  felt  every  moment  as  if  I  should  be  pitched 
out  of  my  berth.  My  bonnet  was  perched  on  a  high 
ledge  above  my  head,  safe  and  secure  I  thought,  but 
down  it  came,  followed  by  my  toilet  box,  and  as  if  to 
insult  me,  by  its  useless  contents,  it  gave  me  a  tip  be- 
side the  head  before  it  landed  upon  the  floor,  to  keep  up 

a  night  long  clatter  with  my  shoes  and  J 's  boots. 

The  wash  basin  and  soap  dish  cracked  themselves  in 
two,  thinking  what  a  jolly  night  it  was,  but  I  did  not 
feel  so   very   much   amused,   I   assure  you.     Twice   I 

wakened  J ,  by  rattling  the  curtain  rings  above  me 

to  know  what  he  thought,  and  this  was  about  all  he 
said,  "  This  is  a  pretty  rough  night,  Maggie  ;  how  are 
you  getting  on  down  there  ? "  Tabby  Jones  said,  in  the 
morning,  "  It  was  a  little  fresh  last  night,  but  nothing 
to  prevent  any  one  from  sleeping."  The  not  very  flat- 
tering conclusion  I  have  arrived  at  is  this,  that  I  am 
unsophisticated  and  very  nervous,  and  will  have  to 
make  the  voyage  two  or  three  times  before  I  shall  be 
able  to  tell  when  we  are  in  any  real  danger  or  not.  Of 
one  thing  I  am  quite  certain,  it  is  this,  that  I  feel  that 
I  have  had  a  terrible  shake  up  ;  and  of  this  you  may  be 


FB  0  M    A  J  J  BOA  1> .  in 

convinced  when  yon  Bee  my  letter;  bul  I  hope  you 
may  he  able  to  decipher  the  scrawl.  Captain  Brooks 
is  fasl  developing  into  an  agreeable  genl  leman,  and  has 

already   discovered  J 's  weakness    for  g 1  coffi 

yesterday  he  senl  his  servant  to  Bay,  "he  would  be 
pleased  to  have  the  Judge  join  him  in  his  priva 
room."  We  have  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  number 
of  pleasanl  people;  among  the  few  thai  we  Like  is  Mr. 
Grimes,  (the  son  of  "old  ( j-rimes,"  he  says.  |  1 1  <  is  merry, 
obliging  and  good  natured,  always  ready  to  do  a  favor 
and  to  make  himself  useful  generally.  Cousin  Will 
Perrin  made  as  acquainted  with  him  jusl  as  we  ^in- 
barked.  An  illiterate  old  fellow,  whose  name  I  cannol 
now  recall,  very  innocently  expressed  his  determination 
qo1  to  return  this  way;  but  by  land,  as  he  had  been  30 
-dreadful  sick." 

Saturday  morning,  June  15.  We  have  a  bright  and 
calm  morning;  but  the  wind  is  not  in  our  favor,  so 
we  shall  probably  not  make  our  usual  distance  to-day. 
To-morrow  evening  the  knowing  ones  say,  we  shall  Bee 
the  coast  of  old.  Ireland.  The  appearance  of  the  sky 
and  cloud-  Beem  to  change  as  we  near  the  other  side; 
the  heavens  are  less  expansive  and  more  circumscribed ; 
the  atmosphere  is  humid  and  damp,  as  we  approach 
the  bogs  of  the  "Ould  Country."     At    the  hour  I  am 

now  writing,  2  p.  m.,  J is  sleeping  beside  me,  and 

lunch  is  over,  it  is  the  best  meal  in  the  day  to  me, 
as  the  soup  is  always  hot,  the  roasl  potatoes  are  just 
out  of  the  oven,  smoking  in  their  jackets,  and  there  is 
no  delay.  Yon  Bee  my  taste  and  habits  are  those  of  a 
plebeian  ;  [  shall  betray  myself  when  I  get  into  aristo- 
cratic circles.     At  the  end  of  our  table  sits  Dr.  D , 

and   on  either  side   the   Misses  .     We  have   been 

amused,  (at  the  same  time  provoked,)  to  notice  what  a 


30  HOME     LETTERS. 

desperate  flirtation  they  are  carrying  on  with  this 
young  Englishman,  exposing  themselves  to  sensorious 
remarks,  as  we  have  reason  to  know,  from  overhearing 
conversations  not  intended  for  our  ears.  There  are 
also  two  maiden  ladies  and  a  youngish  old  niece  of 
thirty,  all  under  the  care  and  protection  of  a  delicate 
young  man,  who,  judging  from  his  personal  appear- 
ance, has  no  more  strength  than  he  needs  for  his  own 
support  and  safeguard.     These  ladies  have  some  sort  of 

claim  upon  A.  T.  S ,  of  IsT.  Y.  ;  and  this  young  man 

is  one  of  his  confidential  clerks,  wherever  his  business 
requires  him  to  go,  they  follow ;  and  in  the  meantime 
the  youngish  niece  has  an  eye  to  business,  too.     She 

goes  out  as  Miss  ,  why  not  come  back  as  Mrs.? 

This  seems  to  be  her  plan,  as  is  evident  to  all,  who,  like 
ourselves,  may  care  to  watch  her  manoeuvres.  How 
she  waylays  him  at  every  turn  ;  how  she  tramps  (that's 
the  word  for  her  step)  up  and  down  the  deck,  up  and 
down — until  I  feel  quite  dizzy  looking  at  them.  One 
of  the  aunts   said   to  me :    "  It   is  a  most  surprising 

thing  ;  I  do  not  know  what  to  make  of  it ;     M ,  at 

home,  is  so  delicate;  oh!  you  have  no  idea  how  delicate 
she  is ;  she  never  walks,  and  now  look  at  her,  the  dear 
girl !  how  bright  she  is,  so  full  of  spirits,  I  can  hardly 
believe  my  eyes."  So  you  see  we  have  representative 
types  of  almost  all  varieties  of  character — some  very 
agreeable,  others  repellent.  We  have  made  a  few  ac- 
quaintances— two   or   three   that   we   value.      Among 

these  are  Dr.  W and  his  wife  ;   he  is  a  professoi 

in  a  Canadian  college,  knows  our  good  friend  Dr. 
McCleod,  knew  him  as  a  pastor  in  Montreal. 

Monday  morning,  Jane  17.  Yesterday  was  the  Sab- 
bath, and  a  beautiful  day  it  was  ;  at  half-past  ten  in 
the  morning  the  bell  rang  for  religious  service.     Most 


//.'  0  M     ABIi  0  A  D.  :i 

of  the  passengers  assembled  in  the  dining  saloon,  with 
some  from  the  steerage,  and  as  many  of  the  sailors 
were  off  duty,  perhaps  twenty,  neatly  dressed  in  their 
clean  blue  punts  and  shirts,  hard  weather-beaten  look- 
ing men,  bu1  with  good,  honest,  sol  km-  far.-.  They  were 
all  ranged  at  the  upper  part  of  the  sal i;  the  passen- 
gers occupied  the  side  seats,  and  the  officers,  dressed 
in  uniform,  with  Captain  Iirooks  at  their  head,  took 
position  about  midway,  that  all  mighl  distinctly  hear. 
The  prayers  and  service  of  the  Episcopal  Church  were 
read,  and  well  read,  by  the  Captain;  all  were  supplied 
with  Bibles  and 'prayer-books,  that  they  mighl  join  in 
the  exercises.     After  this  J)r.  AVillis  gave  us  a  most 

■ 

excellent  sermon,  plain,  practical,  and  profitable.  In 
the  afternoon  we  had  a  second  service,  on   the  upper 

deck,  at  half-past  two,  and  Dr.  D conducted  the 

exercises  and  made  sonic  remarks,  while  the  hvmns 
selected  were  old,  familiar  ones,  that  all  might  join  in 
singing.  At  six  in  the  evening,  a  third  meeting  was 
held  for  the  especial  benefi.1  of  the  steerage  passengers; 

this  J presided  over.     It  had  more  the  character 

of  a  prayer-meeting,  in  which  two  or  three  of  the 
sailors  joined  ;  one  old  man  in  particular,  made  a  very 
earnest  and  heartfelt  prayer,  and  in  singing,  his  whole 
soul  seemed  absorbed  in  worship.  Altogether  it  was 
a  day  most  pleasant,  and  long  to  he  remembered  ;i- 
profitable  in  our  religious  experience. 

Tuesday,  Jam  IS.  This  morning's  meal  Bhould  have 
been  eaten  in  Queenstown,  but  adverse  wind-  and 
storms  have  put  us  behind  time  twelve  hours.  <  »ur  ex- 
pectation  now  is,  that  we  shall  get  there  some  time  in 
the  night  :  and  that  will  he  to  us  mosl  uncomfortable. 
Ahoiit  a  dozen  or  more  will  go  ashore  at  the  same 
time,  hut    none  that   we  have  any   interest   in   except 


22 


HOME     LETTERS. 


Mr.  Kyle  and  his  grandson,  Kyle  Gibbony.  One 
thing  that  impresses  us  so  strangely  is,  the  length  of 
the  days ;  last  night  at  seven,  the  sun  was  an  hour 
high.  A  few  of  the  passengers  remained  up  to  see  the 
moon  rise,  but  I  was  not  among  the  number.  Some 
one  calls  out,  "  A  steamer  ahead  !  "  that  sounds  as  if 
we  were  getting  back  to  civilization  again.  The  sailors 
are  washing  paint  and  cleaning  brasses,  preparatory  to 
going  into  port.  I  will  write  again  as  soon  as  we  find 
a  resting  place  on  shore.  How  strange  it  will  seem  to 
stand  "on  a  firm  foundation"  and  to  be  rid  of  all  these 
clattering  noises. 

M.  C.  A. 


/  E  "  M     .1  B  5  OAD. 


City  of  <  '"/•/:.  5  o'clock  /'.  M.. 
Wednesday^  Jum    l->.  1867. 

We  arrived  here  at  seven  this  morning,  in  time  for 
an  early  breakfast,  thai  we  felt  the  need  of ,  and  could  not 
obtain  al  Queenstown.  We  lefi  the  vessel  at  4  a.  m.  at 
the  entrance  of  the  Cove  of  Cork,  just  as  the  sun  came 
above  the  horizon,  to  brighten  the  day  of  our  entrance 
into  tlic  "Emerald  Isle."  A  little  steam-tug  came 
puffing  out  to  meet  us  and  convey  the  passengers  up 
to  the  city,  thai  waa  named  in  honor  of  the  Queen's 
first  and  only  visit  to  the  town  in  1849.  A  few  of 
the  friends  on  shipboard,  with  whom  we  had  been 
on  intimate  terms,  were  up  thus  early  to  see  us  off, 
and  say  "good-bye;"  and  from  some  we  parted  with 
regret,  feeling  that  in  all  human  probability  we  should 
never  see  each  other  again.  As  long  as  the  steamer 
remained  in  view  we  continued  to  wave  our  adieus, 
J and  Captain  Brooks  contending  for  the  lasl  salu- 
tation. The  nighl  before  leaving- the  vessel,  we  tarried 
up  until  a  very  late  hour,  and  fearing  that  the  night- 
watch  might  fail  to  call  us  in  good  season  in  the  morn- 
ing, we  did  not  undress,  so  we  had  only  three  hour-" 
sleep,  and  felt  (as  we  looked)  like  a  flock  of  sheep 
passing  over  the  gangway  at  four  in  the  morning. 
The  dirty  little  tug  buzzed  about  the  steamer's  side, 
like  a  big  black  beetle  that  had  the  disposition  to  pinch 
any  one  refusing  to  be  carried  on  its  back.  First,  and 
in  advance  of  us,  twenty  or  thirty  steerage  passengers, 
with  their  dirty  bundles  and  luggage,  and  their  dirtier 
children,  were  stowed  away  in  front  ut^  the  smoke-pipe, 
and  then  her  majesty's  mails ; — these  bags  answered  a 


2Jf.  HOME     LETTERS. 

double  purpose,  as  cushions  to  soften  the  boards  for 
her  American  cousins.  A  sail  of  two  miles  brought  us 
to  the  landing  point  at  Queenstown,  passing,  on  our 
way  up,  two  or  three  large  forts  and  a  convict  prison. 
The  coast  of  Ireland  is  much  more  rolling  than  we  had 
supposed ;  the  bluffs  in  some  places  are  very  high,  and 
at  other  points  covered  with  trees  of  a  stunted  growth. 
As  soon  as  the  tug  was  secured  at  the  wharf,  we  ob- 
served two  or  three  custom-house  officers  awaiting  our 
arrival ;  their  dress  was  not  unlike  that  worn  by  our 
policemen ;  coats  half  military,  high  glazed  caps  with 
a  strap  under  the  chin,  that  gave  them  a  somewhat 
fierce  look,  and  small  swords  buckled  at  their  sides. 
All  the  luggage,  trunks,  satchels,  and  bundles,  were 
placed  in  line  upon  a  raised  platform  at  the  side  of  the 
pier,  and  then  the  work  of  examination  commenced. 
It  was  a  novelty  to  witness,  but  it  occasioned  us  the 
loss  of  an  hour  ;  yet  I  must  do  them  the  justice  to  say 
that  they  did  as  little  probably  as  the  law  required,  and 
with  as  much  consideration  as  was  possible,  under  the 
circumstances.  Our  honest  faces  were  our  best  pass- 
ports, I  have  no  doubt,  and  helped  us  through  ;  but  one 
poor  fellow,  less  fortunate,  had  three  pounds  of  tobacco 
confiscated.  A  chalk  line  on  the  face  of  our  trunk  and 
satchel,  gave  us  a  permit  to  pass  through  the  gates  into 
the  city,  which  up  to  this  time  had  been  kept  closed. 
But  what  shall  I  say,  how  can  I  describe  what  we  saw 
on  the  other  side  of  this  Gate-way  ?  such  a  scone  my 
eyes  never  beheld — it  was  so  novel,  so  droll,  so  comically 
odd  and  funny.  The  first  thing  that  fixed  my  attention 
was  some  half  dozen,  savage-looking  Irishmen,  envel- 
oped in  rags,  nothing  but  rags ;  there  was  no  shape  or 
form  to  a  single  garment,  they  looked  like  ragged 
toadstools,  that  had  sprung  up  in  the  night.  Their 
faces  were  covered  with  a  kind  of  frouzy  hair,  and 


FB  OM    .1  /-'  /■'  0  .\l>. 

surely  they  never  saw  or  used  a  pound  of  soap  from  the 
vrt'v  day  they  came  into  existence.  These  creatui 
had  in  charge  cars,  (small  drays,)  drawn  by  the  m< 
comical  looking  long-haired  donkeys— they  were  not 
any  larger  than  a  yearling  colt.  How  it  was  possible 
for  them  to  draw  the  immense  pile  of  trunk-  thai  was 
put  at  their  backs,  I  cannot  imagine,  and  I  Baid  to  one 
of  the  old  men,  "Surely  you  do  nol  intend  to  make 
the  poor  little  beast  pull  that  load?"  His  answer  was 
"Lord  bless  your  ledyship,  she's  used  to  it,  that's 
nothing  at  all,  at  all."  A  miserably  poor  looking  old 
woman,  her  dress  being  a  mass  of  rags,  a  dirty  -liawl 
about  her  uncombed  head,  without  stocking  or  shoes, 

came  up  and  asked  ww  his  reverence"  (J )  for  a  penny, 

but,  judging  from  her  famished  appearance,  I  thought  a 
penny  would  hardly  satisfy  her  hunger.  A  young  girl, 
well  dressed,  and  her  strong,  hardy-looking  brother, 
waited  until  the  old  woman's  wants  were  supplied 
before  addressing  us.  Their  tir-t  Balutation  was,  "well, 
father,  yon  are  just  from  America,  we  want  to  go,  will 
you  tell  ns  is  it  a  good  place,  is  wee-,-  good,  what  shall 
we  dor'*  etc.  After  these  came  a  crowd  of  all  sizes  and 
ages,  such  wretched-looking  creatures,  that  they  seemed 
scarcely  human  in  their  filth  and  ignorance;  such  de- 
graded poverty  Ave  never,  never,  have  Been  at  home. 
We  have  been  told  by  those  who  are  informed,  that 
the  more  thrifty  never  gel  but  one  pair  ^\'  -hoe-  in  a 
year,  and  these  are  only  worn  on  holidays  and  to 
church,  and  when  a  young  girl  is  about  to  be  married. 
a  pair  is  given  to  her  as  a  wedding  present.  Common 
women  never  wear  any  at  all:  only  one  in  fifty  wear 
bonnets:  some  of  the  old  women  wear  can-  with  wide 
plaited  borders,  and  the  well-to-do  have  the  Irish  cloak, 
made  o(  blue  cloth,  a  full  skirt,  plaited  into  a  yoke  at 
the  neck,  with  a  hood  that  answers  the  double  purpose 

3 


26  HOME     LETTERS. 

of  a  bonnet  and  an  umbrella.  As  the  hour  of  our 
arrival  was  too  early,  we  failed  to  get  a  breakfast  at 
the  "  Queen's  Hotel,"  and  so  passed  on  to  the  depot  for 
Cork,  and  here  again  we  were  besieged  by  importunate 
old  women  to  buy  collars  and  pocket-handkerchiefs, 
all  of  common  material,  but  very  cheap.  An  hour's 
ride  brought  us  to  the  city  ;  an  omnibus,  for  sixpence  a 
head,  carried  us  up  to  the  "  Royal  Victoria  Hotel." 
When  we  saw  the  exterior  our  conclusion  was  that  her 
majesty  did  not  patronize  the  establishment,  but  it  is 
never  well  to  be  hasty  in  our  judgments,  the  interior 
looked  more  attractive.  We  were  ushered  into  the 
ladies'  coffee-room,  our  breakfast  was  ordered  and  pre- 
pared in  less  than  an  hour,  the  meal  was  well  cooked 

and   the   table   neatly  arranged   for   four;  J Mr. 

K and  G and   myself.     Our  attendants  were 

three  old  men,  all  dressed  in  small  clothes,  knee  buckles, 
slippers,  white  stockings,  white  neckties  and  long 
aprons,  they  might  easily  have  been  mistaken  for  anti- 
quated clergymen,  with  their  black  coats  and  sedate 
manners. 

After  our  meal  was  disposed  of,  we  all  felt  so  much 
refreshed  that    it  was  proposed  to  take  a    ride  in  a 
"jaunting-car;"  and  we  started  for  "Blarney  Castle," 
six  miles  distant  from  the  city.     The  road,  which  was 
an  admirable  one,  passed  almost  all  the  way  along  the 
banks  of  the  river  Lee ;  at  some  points  the  scenery  was 
very  wild  and  reminded  us  of  the  Wissahickon.  '  The 
great  reputation  that  this  castle  has  acquired  is  alto- 
gether attributable  to  the  "  Blarney  Stone."     The  tra- 
dition is  that  whoever  kisses  it  becomes  possessed  with 
a  peculiar,  soft,  persuasive  eloquence,  that  is  quite  irre- 
sistible.    ]STow  this  charm  I  should  very  much  like  to 
possess ;  but  as  if  to  confer  the  gift  only  upon  a  favored 
few,  the  stone  is  placed  in  a  position  that  makes  it  quite 


/•'/;  0  M    A  B  8  OAD. 

impossible  for  a  lady  to  reach,  and  only  one  of  our 
party  accomplished  the  feat,  and  thai  was  done  by  Gib- 
bony  a1  tlic  risk  of  his  neck.  Two  gentlemen  held  him 
by  the  legs,  as  he  Leaned  over  and  beyond  the  edge  of 
the  broken  wall.  The  "Groves  of  Blarney"  surround- 
ing this 'castle  are  very  extensive  and  beautiful,  and  ;t 
lake  of  the  same  name,  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
castle,  has  another  tradition,  "thai  a  wealthy  Earl 
threw  all  his  family-plate  into  the  lake  at  a  certain 
place;  that  the  secrel  is  only  known  to  three  of  his  de- 
scendants a1  a  time ;  before  one  dies,  he  communicates  it 
to  another  of  the  family,  and  that  the  secrel  is  to  be 
religiously  kept  until  one  of  the  descendants  again  be- 
comes possessed  of  the  property."  About  two  miles 
from  the  castle  is  a  Hydropathic  establishment  and 
Turkish  baths,  under  the  care  of  Dr.  Barker.  The 
grounds  surrounding  the  building  arc  laid  out  with 
exquisite  taste,  and  his  own  cottage  home  i-  externally 
and  internally  the  most  beautiful  little  miniature  palace 
I  ever  saw.  It  was  too  pretty  for  every-day  use;  just 
such  little  fairy  retreats  I  have  dreamed  about,  but 
never  before  seen  with  my  eve-  open.  It  made  a  gr<  I 
impression  upon  all  the  party,  and  I  am  -are  |  he  picture 
will  not  soon  fade  out  of  our  memory.  Tf  I  was  not  so 
hurried  I  would  like  to  describe  more  minutely,  hut  it 

• 

is  quite  impossible ;  I  musl  be  content  with  giving  you 
only  an  outline  now.  We  saw  on  our  return  a  monu- 
ment erected  to  the  memory  of  Father  Matthew;  the 
City  Jail,  County  Prison,  and  Queen's  College.  Beg 
gars  by  the  way  greatly  annoyed  us  by  their  impor- 
tunities, following  ns  like  a  pack  of  wolves,  hungry 
and  savage.  One  ragged  hare  legged  boy  ran  the  dis- 
tance  of  a  mile,  at  the  very  top  of  his  speed,  in   the 

hope  of  getting  a   penny.     J had  nothing  but   a 

three-cent  piece  (our  coin) ;  he  threw  it  out   to  him  in 


28  HOME     LETTERS. 

the  expectation  that  he  would  stop ;  not  he  !  the  little 
ragamuffin  looked  at  it  a  moment,  then  called  out : 
"  it's  no  good,  sir ;  no  good,  sir;  no  good  ;"  and  followed 
on  another  half-mile,  in  the  hope  that  the  mistake 
would  be  rectified  in  his  favor.  In  the  evening  a 
mountebank  and  his  boy  spread  a  blanket  in  the  street 
in  front  of  the  hotel,  and  went  through  some  feats  of 
sleight-of-hand  and  jugglery,  collecting  pennies  from 
the  curious.  I  was  very  weary,  and  retired  at  eight 
o'clock  in  the  evening. 

Thursday,  June  20.  We  were  up  as  early  as  seven  in 
the  morning  and  off  to  Killarney  by  half-past  eight 
o'clock.  We  noticed  that  the  land  was  very  poor,  and 
that  the  whole  face  of  the  country  had  a  dilapidated 
and  neglected  look.  We  saw  two  old  castles  and  the 
ruins  of  a  monastery  between  Cork  and  Mallow  (a  small 
town  on  the  Blackwater  river)  where  we  changed  cars, 
leaving  the  main  line  to  Dublin  and  taking  a  branch 
road  forty-one  miles  to  Killarney,  where  we  arrived 
at  11  a.  m.  Near  the  depot  is  the  Victoria  Hotel,  a 
beautiful  house,  with  charming  grounds  about  it ;  but 
our  preference  was  to  be  at  the  "Lake  House" — a 
plainer  establishment,  on  Castle  Lough,  having  an  out- 
look directly  upon  the  lake,  and  our  chamber  window 
has  the  same  lovely  view.  Time  was  too  precious  to 
rest  long  inactively,  so  we  ordered  a  cold  lunch  to  be 
ready  at  twelve,  which  we  enjoyed  with  good  appetites. 

At  one  o'clock  we  were  off  again  in  a  "jaunting- 
car,"  for  the  Pass  of  Dunloe,  a  ride  of  fourteen  miles. 
A  very  good  road  brought  us  to  the  summit  of  the 
Pass ;  and  there  (you  will  hardly  believe  it  when  I  tell 
you)  we,  yes  we,  took  horses  to  ride  a  distance  of  four 
miles  over  a  rough  road  or  path,  that  brought  us  out 
at   the  head  of  the   upper  lake.     How   could   I  have 


-"     ■-•—*- 


BOSS   OASTI.K,  KIl.I.AK.NF.Y. 


.  '}, v.  //    /<  •.  r  <<>•>■  '    /  .   ••-  /  f/ ■••  •  <•<    ■ 


FROM     ABROAD.  /.'/ 

avoided  this,  withoul  missing  the  glorious  sights  of 
this  mountain  pass;  and  however  incredible  ii  may 
appear,  I  enjoyed  it  very  much,  and  my  guides  say  that 
I  rode  remarkably  well,  and  the  truth  is,  I  thought  I 
did  well  to  stay  on  the  animal's  back  a1  all.  The  mer- 
riment thai  we  had  by  the  way,  was  aot  Btinted  in 
quality  or  quantity.  The  day  before,  we  thoughl  we 
were  possessed  by  (not  with)  devils;  bul  this  day  ex- 
ceeded all  and  everything  in  our  experience.  The 
bi'irirars  of  Mullamacuddy  Reeks,  to  what  can  I  com- 
pare them?  to  nothing  bul  the  green-headed  flies  of 
Brigantine  ;  no1  even  blows  could  keep  them  off,  they 
came  in  crowds,  old  men,  young  men,  boys — children 
scarcely  able  to  speak,  women  of  all  ages  surrounded 
us,  and  were  so  persistent  in  their  demands  thai  it 
shut  up  all  feelings  of  sympathy ;  you  ran  form  no  idea 
of  such  a  class  of  beings,  without  seeing  and  hearing 
how  they  try  to  wheedle  you  out  of  your  small  change, 
and  in  nine  eases  out  often  they  will  probably  succeed. 

Mr.    Iv is  an   Irishman,  and  knows  how    to  parry 

their  jokes.  Three  young  girls  came  ou1  of  a  moun- 
tain hut  at  the  road  side,  and  importuned  us  to  buy 
their  collars  ami  knit  laces.  We  refused,  hut  they  per- 
sisted, and  followed  along  beside  our  horses  for  a  mile, 
the  besl   Looking  one  of  the  number  said,  holding  up  a 

collar   to  Mi-.   Iv "now  do  buy  it,  sir,  it's  only  a 

shilling,  buy  it  for  your  wile,"  "but  I  have  no  wife." 
he  said,  "  more's  the  pity,  sir,  such  a  ni&  gentleman  and 
no  wife:  well  buy  it  for  your  sweetheart,  sir."  "Bui 
I  have  no  sweetheart,  now  what  shall  I  do?'!  "Oh! 
anybody  would  have  your  honor."  ""Would  you?': 
he  asked.  Without  a  moment's  hesitation,  she  replied, 
••yes  I  would,  and  here's  his  riverenct  behind,  sir, 
that  can  perform  the  ceremony  for  U8."  This  is  the 
third  time  that  J has  been  taken  for  a  father  con- 


SO  HOME     LETTERS. 

lessor ;  and  this  will  please  Mr.  Colahan,  to  know  that 
his  friend  is  making  so  good  an  impression  abroad. 
One  old  man  that  we  gave  a  shilling  to,  was  a  hundred 
and  three  years  old.  We  gave  something  to  a  widow 
who  lived  in  a  hut  that  looked  very  like  a  pig-sty, 
where  she  lodged  six  children ; — how  they  were  fed, 
and  clothed  no  one  could  tell.  Sixpence  we  paid  for  a 
drink  of  goat's  milk ;  but  we  did  not  try  the  "  moun- 
tain dew,"  as  the  native  whiskey  is  called.  An  old 
man  played  an  Irish  jig,  his  wife  dancing  to  the  music 
expecting  to  be  paid  for  the  effort.  Small  cannon  were 
tired  off  at  points  by  the  way,  for  which  we  were  ex- 
pected to  pay  sixpence  a  shot,  for  the  echo  and  the 
shock  that  the  report  gave  our  nerves.  In  the  passage 
of  the  gap,  there  are  several  lakes  and  a  small  stream 
called  the  Loe  ;  and  here  and  there  a  few  stunted  trees, 
that  add  a  charm  to  the  view,  by  softening  into  beauty 
the  rugged  mountain  sides.  Emerging  from  this  pass, 
at  an  elevation  of  four  thousand  feet,  we  had  in  view 
what  is  called  the  Black  Valley,  a  deep,  dark,  dreary 
looking  glen,  shut  in  and  overshadowed  by  steep 
mountains.  Following  the  road  down  the  mountain 
side  to  the  valley  below,  to  reach  our  boat  at  the  head 
of  the  upper  lake,  we  were  nearly  torn  to  pieces  by 
beggars,  before  we  could  effect  an  entrance  through  a 
gate,  (where  a  shilling  was  charged,)  for  permission  to 
puss  through  the  grounds  of  Lord  Brandon.  Four 
stout  fellows,  including  our  guide,  (who  carried  a  bugle) 
were  waiting  our  appearance,  to  row  us  back  to  the 
hotel,  a  distance  of  thirteen  miles— the  length  of  the 
three  lakes  from  our  point  of  starting.  The  Lakes  of 
Killarney  are  three  in  number,  the  upper  lake,  Loe 
lake,  and  the  lower  lake.  They  lie  close  together,  and 
are  joined  by  streams  of  such  insignificant  length  that 
they  may  almost  be  considered  as  one,  and  they  are 


/■'/,'  0  M     A  B  R  OAD.  .;/ 

situated  in  the  midst  of  majestic  and  lofty  mountains, 
whose  sides  "are  covered  with  the  most  luxuriant  ver- 
dure and  Bhrubbery.  These  lake-  are  dotted  with 
islands,  some  of  which  are  connected  by  bridges  with 
each  other,  and  with  the  opposite  shores.  The  lower 
and  larger  lake  spreads  out  in  one  direction  towards  a 
comparatively  level  country,  while  the  upper  and  mid- 
dle lakes  lie  imbedded  in  wild,  dark  mountains;  and 
all  around  are  cataracts  and  waterfalls  of  every  size  and 
form,  and  every  variety  of  wild  and  romantic  scenery 
meets  the  eve,  intermingled  with  just  enough  of  a 
softer  character  to  prevenl  harshness.  In  some  places 
the  hills  are  covered  with  thick,  large  forest  trees: 
in  others,  the  sides  of  the  mountains  are  enriched  by 
varied  lines,  where  they  are  covered  with  ^reerj  turf,  or 
purple  heather,  contrasting  beautifully  with  the  cold, 
gray  rock.  It  is  impossible  (at  least  I  have  doI  the 
skill)  to  convey  in  words,  any  correct  description  of 
the  exquisite  beauty  and  loveliness  of  the  landscape, 
which  go  impressed  us  with  its  overpowering  charms. 
At  one  point,  called  the  Eagle's  Nest,  there  is  an' ex- 
traordinary echo.  The  hill  is  conical  in  form,  and 
covered  at  its  base  with  evergreens;  but  the  summit  is 
hare,  and  on  the  top,  (our  guide  told  as)  the  eagles 
have  had  their  nests  for  centuries.  We  were  rowed 
into  a  little  creek,  our  guide  stepped  ashore  and  pre- 
pared to  awaken  the  echoes,  by  the  sound  of  a  single 
bugle  note!  The  effect  was  wonderful,  the  note  re- 
bounded from  hill  to  hill,  from  cliff  to  crag,  now  soft, 
now  loud, sometimes  in  rapid  succession,  at  other  times 
pausing  as  it'  for  an  answer,  until  it  finally  died  away. 
There  is  another  famous  echo  called  "Paddy  Blake." 
Our  boatman  considered  it  not  polite  to  pas-;  without 
having  a  chat  with  Paddy,  to  inquire  after  his  health 
and  the  first  question  was:  "How  do  you  do,  Paddy 


$2  ROME     LETTERS. 

Blake  ?"  the  immediate  answer  came  promptly,  "  Pretty 
well,  I  thank  yon,"  so  the  boatmen  asserted,  and  we 
are  to  doubt  none  of  their  superstitious  legends ;  then 
our  guide  volunteered  some  marvellous  tales  about 
fairies  and  goblins,  equal  to  anything  that  ever  has 
been  told  or  written. 

The  dinner,  (that  we  had  ordered  in  the  morning 
before  leaving  the  hotel,)  was  waiting  our  return  at 
seven  in  the  evening,  and  we  were  both  tired  and 
hungry,  and  did  justice  to  the  meal.  On  talking  over 
the  incidents  of  the  day,  we  all  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  we  had  had  a  most  delightful  time,  and  that  it 
was  a  day  that  would  be  long  remembered ;  but  I 
must  not  omit  to  tell  you  about  the  sight  we  wit- 
nessed at  the  Cathedral,  this  morning.  It  was  a 
religious  holiday,  observed  by  all  good  Catholics  ;  and 
when  we  passed  the  church,  on  looking  in,  it  seemed  to 
be  crowded  and  packed  with  people,  out  to  the  very 
door.  Those  who  could  not  get  inside  were  kneeling 
at  the  door,  on  the  steps,  on  the  ground,  under  the 
trees,  out  to  the  very  gate  of  entrance,  and  still  they 
came  in  crowds.  We  met  them  on  the  road  by  hun- 
dreds, some  on  foot  and  some  on  donkeys,  a  man 
seated  forward,  a  woman  behind  ;  and  others,  that  were 
better  off,  were  riding  in  little  box  cars,  whole  fami- 
lies being  huddled  together  on  the  bare  boards,  in  the 

b  ottom  of  the  car.     J asked  our  driver,  how  many 

holidays  they  had  in  the  year ;  he  said,  "  nineteen." 
"  But  don't  you  think  that  is  a  great  many  to  give  to 
the  church  ?"  was  the  second  question ;  with  earnest- 
ness, he  replied,  "  Xo,  your  honor,  it's  little  enough  to 
give  to  the  poor  soul." 

We  remarked  the  beauty  and  profusion  of  the  flow- 
ers that  grew  by  the  way-side;  flowers,  that  are  culti. 
vated  with  care  in  our  green-houses,  grow  wild  here 


/•'//  0  M      A  B  /,'  0  A  l>. 

and  in  the  greatesl  luxuriance.  Ineversawso  many: 
they  grow  everywhere,  among  the  grass,  by  the  road 
side,  iii  the  fields,  over  the  walls,  beside  the  huts  of  th< 
poor,  thai  beautify  and  hide  the  squalid  repulsiven 
from  the  eyes  of  passing  strangers.  In  all  the  hotele 
they  have  flowers  to  ornament  their  tallies;  flowers  on 
the  window  Ledges  and  above  the  mantel,  and  even  the 
halls  are  decorated,  and  the  stair- ways  emhellished 
with  flowers.  The  eye  is  charmed  with  the  brilliancy 
of  their  colors;  and  their  delicious  fragrance  perfumes 
the  yery  air  we  breathe.  The  moisture  of  the  atmos- 
phere, and  the  frequent  rains  make  vegetation  grow 
very  rank,  and  much  more  exuberant  than  with  as. 
The  day's  enjoyment  and  novelties  had  so  excited  both 
brain  and  nerves,  that  I  could  not  compose  myself  to 
sleep  until  midnight;  and  this  was  not  well,  for  we 
had  determined  to  be  up  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morn- 
ing, to  visit  the  ruins  of  Muckross  Abbey,  before 
taking  the  cars  for  Dublin. 

Friday,  June  Ql.  Had  breakfast  at  -even,  and  were 
off  to  the  Abbey  by  half-past.  We  hired  a  jaunting- 
car  for  our  party  of  four;  our  driver  was  an  untamed 

rollicking  Irishman,  with  a  tongue  as  smooth  ;i-  oil. 
His  little  brown  pony,  "Paddy  Lake."  was  fully  p<  -- 
sessed  with  his  master's  spirit ;  never  were  we  under  the 
care  of  tiro  such  Puddics  before,  never  wenl  weal  such 
John  ( Jilpin  speed,  and  m  r,  ,■  in  all  our  experience  had 
we  accomplished  a  distance  of  twelve  miles  in  one  hour 
and  a  half,  unless  by  steam.  We  fairly  flew  over  the 
ground,  up  hill  and  down  hill  he  never  checked  his 
speed,  and    the  more  avc   remonstrated   the    faster   he 

went,  until  at  last  poor  Mr.  K becoming  nervously 

excited,  and  making  me  the  excuse  tor  his  timiditv. 
said  "See,  now,  you  must  stop,  the  lady  is  frightened." 


SJf,  no  ME     LETTERS. 

The  fellow  turned,  and  looking  at  me  with  the  most 
comical  expression  of  countenance,  said,  "  Oh !  never 
you  fear,  Paddy  Lake  won't  stumble,  she  never  did,  I 
wouldn't  spill  your  ladyship  out  for  all  the  weeges  I 
ever  earned."  I  would  not  like  to  take  many  such 
rides,  but  the  memory  of  it  is  full  of  hilarity  and  fun. 
The  drive  was  through  the  extensive  grounds  of  Mr. 
Herbert,  M.  P.,  the  road  was  very  circuitous  constantly 
opening  up  at  different  points  the  most  enchanting 
views  of  the  lakes.  At  half-past  ten  we  left  Killarney, 
with  its  beautiful  surroundings,  the  Lakes,  the  Flowers, 
the  emerald  green  and  the  warm  hearted  Patricks,  and 
arrived  at  the  Dublin  depot  at  half-past  five.  The  dis- 
tance is  a  hundred  and  eighty-six  miles.  By  the  way 
we  passed  four  or  five  old  castles — Ireland  is  full  of 

them.     In  the  car  J had  quite  a  long  conversation 

with  an  intelligent  English  officer,  about  the  "  Fenian" 
troubles,  to  which  I  listened  with  interest.  At  the 
depot  we  hired  a  cab  and  directed  our  driver  to  take  us 
to  the  "  Gresham  House,"  on  Sackville  street,  the  prin- 
cipal street  in  the  city.  At  the  door,  three  obsequious 
waiters  rushed  out  to  offer  assistance  and  to  carry  our 
luggage  in  doors.  A  little  dapper  housemaid  waited 
inside  to  show  "  Madame  to  her  apartments ;"  what 
should  they  be,  a  parlor  and  bed-room  on  the  first  floor 
front,  or  a  bed-room  only,  with  the  use  of  the  ladies' 
coffee-room  ?  the  reply  was  Madame  would  be  content 
with  the  last  proposal,  as  her  stay  was  only  for  a  day  or 
two.  We  were  ushered  into  a  back  room  that  had  one 
wide  window  looking  upon  an  open  court  yard,  enclosed 
between  four  walls,  and  in  the  centre  of  a  grass-plot 
was  one  big  tree,  flower-beds  were  all  around,  and  vines 
trained  up  against  the  otherwise  unsightly  old  walls. 
The  furniture  of  the  room  was  plain  mahogany,  crim- 
son curtains  at  the  window,  an  odd,  box-like  shaped 


FR  0  M     A  B  R  OAD.  .;:, 

bedstead,  with  a  ~<>lid  base  resting  on  the  floor,  looking 
as  it'  it  might  have  been  handed  down  from  generation 
to  generation;  an  open  grate  with  coals  ready  to  be 
lighted  nt  a  moment's  notice.  We  had  dinner  at  half- 
past  six,  and  retired  a1  ten.  Saturday  morning  we 
were  tip  a1  seven,  and  breakfasted  ai  nine,  and  after 
that  we  hired  a  jaunting-car  for  the  day  at  two  shil- 
lings the  hour,  a  bargain  that  we  repented  of  at  our 
leisure,  for  the  driver  was  a  lazy  drone;  and  his  horse 
was  lazier,  and  no  amount  of  whipping  could  keep  him 
up  to  a  reasonable  trot.  At  the  suggestion  of  a  friend 
we  drove  out  to  Eowth  Hill,  (a  distance  of  seven 
miles,)  where  we  were  promised  "thefinesl  prospect  our 
eves  ever  beheld,"  hut  the  day  being  cloudy  we  tailed 
t<>  got  the  extended  view,  and  returned  to  our  hotel 
disappointed,  procured  a  lunch  and  a  better  driver,  and 
started  out  a  second  time  to  gei  a  general  idea  of  the 
city  and  its  public  buildings,  the  post  office,  custom 
house.  Bank  of  Ireland,  and  many  other  places  too 
numerous  to  mention.  The  only  one  that  we  sought 
admittance  to,  and  gained  access  by  paying  a  shilling 
each,  was  the  official  residence  of  the  Lord  Lieutenant. 
Our  attendant  (the  housekeeper  and  general  care-taker 
of  the  establishment  >  was  a  polite  old  lady,  who  kindly 
explained  everything  of  interest,  as  we  passed  through 
the  different  apartments— the  reception  hall,  parlors, 
dining-room,  ball-room,  armory  and  private  apartments 
of  the  Family,  that  they  occupy  not  more  than  two 
months  in  the  year,  during  which  time  one  or  two 
levees  are  given,  when  all  Dublin,  that  is  anybody  goi  - 
Placed  on  the  walls  of  the  reception-hall  are  the  por- 
traits of  all  the  Lord  Lieutenants,  according  to  rota- 
tion in  office.  Connected  with  this  residence  is  the 
Castle  of  Dublin,  (originally  an  old  fortress,)  now  the 
Royal  chapel.     I  wish  I  could  photograph  a  view   of 


36  HOME     LETTERS. 

its  interior,  that  you  might  form  some  idea  of  its 
exquisite  proportions,  the  beauty  of  its  ornamentation, 
and  the  strange  rich  carvings  in  solid  oak,  and  of  the 
great  stained  glass  windows,  where  the  sun-light 
streamed  through  and  lighted  up  the  whole  interior 
with  the  softest  shades  of  color,  of  rose  bloom  and 
emerald  green.  It  was  a  place  where  poet  or  artist 
might  wish  to  meditate  and  linger  in  the  solemn  beauty 
of  its  "  dim  religious  light." 

Sabbath  day,  June  S3.  The  hour  is  now  eight  o'clock 
in  the  evening.  I  am  writing  without  a  candle,  as  it  is 
yet  quite  light,  the  twilight  is  so  prolonged  here,  that 
it  is  not  really  dark  before  ten  o'clock.  AVe  attended 
chapel  service  this  morning,  listened  to  a  sermon  from 
the  Dean  of  Ellsmore.  Forty  clergymen  receive  stipends 
for  preaching  only  two  sermons  each,  during  the  year. 
We  enjoyed  the  music  very  much ;  the  choir  was  made 
up  of  half-grown  men  and  boys,  who  were  all  robed  in 

long  white  gowns,  fitting   close  to   the  neck.     J 

attended  a  second  service  this  afternoon,  and  is  out 
again  to-night.  At  dinner  to-day  we  had  strawberries 
offered  on  the  stem,  and  were  expected  not  to  take  more 
than  a  half  dozen,  would  you  not  consider  that  an 
aggravation  ?     I  know  we  did. 

M.  C.  A. 


/••//  0  i/     .1  /;  S  0  .1  />.  37 


Dublin,  Monday  Morning, 
Jum  ."/.  5  o'clock  A.  M. 

As  M- intends  to  mail  her  letter  this  morning,  I 

shall  have  to  hasten,  to  add  a  Little  to  her  lull  detail  of 
much  that  we  have  seen  and  heard,  and  will  take  up 
the  journal  where  she  has  left  off.  After  lunch,  Mr. 
Kyle,  his  grandson  and  myself,  wenl  to  the  Cathedral, 
St.  Patrick's.  Since  the  days  of  Queen  Elizabeth  it 
has  been  in  the  possession  of  the  Episcopalians,  but  \\ 
originally  erected  by  and  belonged  t<>  the  Catholics. 
The  building,  is  a  double  parallelogram,  crossing  in 
the  centre,  at  which  point  i-  placed  the  pulpit,  so  that 
all  may  he  equally  near  the  preacher,  it  is  an  immense 
complication  of  arches;  yet  one  can  hear  distinctly. 
The  music  is  of  the  highest  order;  aboul  fifty  or  sixty 
make  up  the  choir,  all  men  and  hoys,  and  is  the  best  I 
ever  heard.  People  go  to  enjoy  it  as  they  do  to  the 
opera,  leave  when  the  sermon  commences,  and  com,, 
hack  tor  the  closing  part  of  the  musical  entertain- 
ment. One  can  hardly  understand  the  effed  of  such 
a  service,  unless  it  has  been  witnessed;  hut  upon  dif- 
ferent minds  it  would  make  different  impressions.  To 
me,  and  to  those  who  were  with  me,  it  seemed  a  pi< 
of  mockery,  to  call  this  display  of  dress  and  pomp  of 
the  officials,  the  worship  of  God.  At  the  close  of  the 
service,  about  twenty  of  the  robed  gentry  of  the  church 
passed  down  the  aisle  in  procession,  the  chief  usher, 
dressed  in  hlack  velvet  gown  and  hood,  carrying  a 
silver  rod,  about  three  feet  long,  elevated  in  his  hand; 
at  the  end  of  the  long  aisle-  they  made  formal  bows, 
and  departed.     A  number  of  monuments  line  the  side 


Qg  HOME     LETTERS. 

arches  of  the  building,  the  entire  structure  each  way 
being  a  triplicate  arch.  Some  of  these  monuments 
are  of  very  ancient  origin,  and  are  built  in  the  walls 
with  representations  in  stone  of  the  nobility  of  other 
days.  Among  those  which  I  saw  was  an  e&gy  of 
the  wife  of  one  of  the  Earls  of  Boyle,  having  a  crown 
upon  her  head  showing  the  regal  power  of  those 
who,  under  the  name  of  Earls,  ruled  Ireland  with 
royal  power,  even  after  the  old  kingdoms  of  Ulster,. 
Munster,  etc.,  were  broken  up  in  name.  In  the  evening 
young  K.  G and  I  went  to  Dr.  Hall's  church,  Pres- 
byterian, which  is  a  very  handsome  structure  of  stone, 
only  a  few  squares  above  us,  on  Sackville  street.  The 
Dr.  is  now  in  America.  Here  the  worship  was  like 
that  which  we  have  been  accustomed  to,  and  seemed 
to  me  to  have  much  more  of  sincerity  in  it. 

We  have  concluded  to  remain  in  Dublin  until  two 
o'clock  to-day,  when  we  will  leave  for  Belfast,  or 
possibly  for  Londonderry,  though  I  am  afraid  the  ride, 
one  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  between  the  hours  of  two 

and  ten  o'clock  p.  m.,  may  be  too  much  for  M -. 

We  will  be  greatly  hurried  to  reach  Paris  by  the  first 
of  July,  and  may  have  to  give  up  Scotland  altogether, 
crossing  over  to  England  directly  from  Ireland.  With 
our  visit  to  Ireland  we  have  been  greatly  pleased ;  so 
many  things  are  novel  and  peculiar  to  the  eyes  of  an 
American,  that  they  cannot  fail  to  interest  him.  Some 
portions  of  the  country  are  very  well  cultivated ;  in- 
deed it  would  be  difficult  to  find  a  more  beautiful 
agricultural  section  than  about  Cork ;  and  along  the 
road  from  Killarney  to  Dublin,  some  of  the  land  ap- 
peared to  be  in  excellent  condition,  but  the  greater 
portion  of  the  country  seemed  to  be  worn  out  and 
poor ;  to  a  stranger  it  has  a  look  of  desolation,  and 
were  it  not  that  nature  puts  forth  a  successful  effort  to 


/••  R  0  1/     A  B  B  0  AD.  . :u 

cover  its  nakedness  with  the  beautiful  freshness  of  its 
green  sward,  and  charming  flowers,  which  grow  in 
such  profusion,  this  portion  of  Ireland  would  have 
little  bo  at1  racl  the  tourist. 

The  houses  of  the  tenantry  are  mud  cabins,  consisting 
mostly  of  <>iic  room  with  a  thatched  roof  and  floor  of 
earth,  and  are  as  destitute  as  possible  of  the  comforts  of 
civilized  life.  The  mass  of  the  people  are  miserably 
poor,  aor  can  they  better  their  condition,  the  land  being 
owned  by  the  gentry  and  oobility  wli<>  mostly  live  in 
idlenessand  luxury  on  the  rents  which  they  extorl  from 
their  tenantry,  who  are  required  to  pay  annually  for  a 
cabin  and  a  small  patch  of  land,  $25  or  $30.  All  they 
can  do  is  to  exist,  the  children  arc  in  rags  :  the  mother 
is  not  much  better,  and  is  barefooted  and  bareheaded; 
the  lather  idle,  is  often  drunk,  when  he  can  gel  the 
money  to  become  so,  and  this  is  a  state  of  things 
which  meets  you  on  r\cv\  hand.  Ireland  is  in  such  a 
hopeless  condition,  that  many  of  the  poor  wish  to  gel 
to  America.  Those  that  have  families  are  shul  up  to 
an  endurance  of  their  lot  in  life,  because  of  the  impos- 
sibility of  raising  means  to  leave,  unless  they  have 
friends  in  our  country  to  help  them;  whilst  the  young 
all  seem  to  hi' striving  to  obtain  money  to  gel  away, 
hut  this  is  hard  to  do,  as  wages  are  only  six  and  eight 
shillings  a  week.  Men  were  working  in  Queenstown 
when  we  were  there  at  a  shilling  (24  cents)  a  day,  out 
of  which  they  supporl  themselves  and  families.  In 
Cork,  the  destitution,  which  we  saw  on  the  streets, 
was  very  distressing;  at  our  hotel  a-  waiter  told 
me,  most  of  the  poor  went  shoeless  through  the  -now 
and  ice  of  winter.  In  Dublin  things  look  much  better, 
some  cases  of  extreme  poverty  we  saw.  hut  no  begging. 
Yesterday  afternoon  on  my  way  to  church,  I  passed 
through  some  of  the  streets  in  which  the  wry  poor  live, 


4.0 


HOME     LETTERS. 


and  was  pleased  to  see  them  generally  well  clad,  though 
not  very  cleanly.  Dublin  is  not  as  pleasant  a  city  as  I 
expected  to  find  it ;  most  of  the  buildings  look  sooty 
and  black,  it  has  not  the  cheerful  appearance  of  either 
Queenstown  or  Cork,  though  there  is  great  activity 
during  business  hours,  which  last  from  9  until  4  o'clock  ; 
few  stores  are  open  before  9  a.  m.  The  troubles  in  this 
country  and  the  Paris  Exposition,  are  draining  Ireland 
of  visitors.  The  English  are  afraid,  or  dislike  to  travel 
here  now,  and  the  Americans  pass  through  on  their 
way  to  the  great  centre  of  attraction,  so  that  the  hotels 
are  deserted. 

J.  A. 


FE  O  M     A  B  R  o  A  D.  '/ 


Mailed  at  Lm  rpool, 

June  1.  1867. 

Monday,  .Jam    :'h     Not   foi-linu*  contenl    to    leav< 
DuMin  without  seeing  something  of  its  modes  of  doing 
public    business,    we   concluded    to   tarry    over   until 
the   morning  and   visit    the   Four   Courts,    in    which 

J was  particularly  interested.     I  remained  in  the 

•  ■all,  while  he  inspected  their  interior  accommodations, 
and  his  report  was,  that  the  moms  were  -mall,  and  their 
arrangements  were  not  any  more  convenienl  than  our 
own  at  home.  The  judges  looked  more  pompous  and 
official  in  their  robes,  hut  the  wigs  were  perfectly 
hideous;  so  I  thought  the  barristers  appeared  under 
their  short,  clipped  hair,  as  [  saw  two  pa>>  through  the 
open  court  yard.  From  the  Courts  we  went  to  the 
Bank  of  Ireland,  originally  the  Parliament  Hon 
Thi'  interior  is  handsomely  fitted  up,  and  retain-  entire 
the  late  Eouse  of  Lords,  the  walls  draped  with  tapestry, 
representing  the  Siege  of  Derry  and  the  Battle  of  the 
Boyne,  with  the  statue  «»t'  George  III.  filling  the  space 
formerly  occupied  by  the  throne.  They  are  very  cau- 
tious  aboul  granting  admittance  to  strangers.  At  the 
door  our  names  were  asked,  inside  the  vestibule  our 
cards  were  demanded  ;  an  official  looked  at  them, 
passed  them  to  another  dignitary  higher  in  grade,  he  r<> 
a  third  who  carried  them  to  some  one  still  more  exalted 
in  authority,  who  came  ou1  of  his  office  to  inspect  the 
party,  and  this  gentleman  appearing  satisfied  with  our 
apparent  respectability  gave  us  in  charge  of  an  nsher, 
whose  vocation  it  was  to  show  strangers  through  the 
building.     We  paid  only  one  shilling  for  all  this  ••  red 

4 


j£  IIOME     LETTERS. 

tape."  I  must  give  you  some  idea  of  the  appearance 
and  dress  of  these  lackeys ;  most  of  them  were  middle 
aged,  fine  looking  men,  their  suits  made  of  blue  cloth 
ornamented  with  brass  buttons,  the  pants  with  a  scarlet 
stripe  down  the  side,  and  the  vest  of  scarlet  cloth. 
"Was  not  that  gorgeous  enough  to  impress  a  citizen  of 
Yankee-land  ?  We  returned  to  the  hotel  at  one  o'clock, 
had  a  nice  lunch  of  ham,  bread  and  butter  with  coffee, 
and  after  that  started  for  the  depot.  At  seven  in  the 
evening  we  arrived  at  Belfast,  feeling  pretty  well  used 
up  by  the  fatigues  of  the  day.  We  put  up  at  the 
Imperial  Hotel,  a  tolerably  comfortable  house ;  all  the 
hotels  have  a  deserted  look,  as  everybody  is  in  Paris. 
This  place  is  the  centre  of  the  linen  trade  of  Ireland, 
and  passing  by  the  way,  we  noticed  the  large  flax  mills 
and  extensive  manufactories  for  weaving  linen.  The 
immensely  large  bleach  greens  were  a  novelty  to  our 
eyes ;  at  one  place  we  saw  fifty  or  sixty  acres  in  grass, 
all  covered  with  the  long  lengths  of  material  put  out 
to  whiten,  and  at  intervals  around  the  enclosure,  were 
placed  little  watch  towers,  and  men  were  stationed  to 
guard  the  linen  from  injury.  The  farther  we  travel 
north,  the  better  the  soil  appears  to  be,  or  rather,  it  is 
cultivated  with  more  care,  and  the  people  seem  to  be 
much  more  industrious,  and,  as  a  natural  result,  every- 
thing has  a  more  thrifty  look.  But  the  South  of  Ire- 
land is  by  far  the  most  attractive  to  the  eye,  with  its 
old  ruins,  and  moss-covered  towers  and  its  flowers,  most 
beautiful  flowers,  that  grow  in  such  prodigal  profusion 
everywhere,  in  the  grain  fields,  by  the  roadside,  in  the 
hedge  rows,  and  about  the  huts  of  the  poor,  to  redeem 
them  from  unsightliness.  Their  loveliness  and  luxu- 
riousness  at  times,  so  delighted  and  impressed  me,  that 
I  could  not  restrain  my  tears  ;  and  I  was  forcibly  re- 
minded of  a  sermon  that  Dr.  Butler  once  preached  for 


Fit  <>  V      A  I!  II  0  A  I) . 


\s 


ua  upon  the  texl  :  "The  beauty  of  the  Lord  be  upon 
ii-.'*  He  musl  have  had  a  prescient  view  of  the 
••  Emerald  Isle  *'  before  writing  thai  sermon. 

• 

Jum  .'■'.  This  city  has  no  special  attraction  for 
strangers,  except  in  a  business  point  of  view;  yet  it 
has  a  cheerful,  thrifty  appearance,  the  streets  are  wide, 
well  paved,  and  are  kept  in  a  cleanly  condition,  and 
the  houses  arc  comfortable  looking,  and  mosl  of  them 
are  buill  of  brick.  En  Queen's  College  we  fell  some  in- 
terest, because  Dr.  McCosh  (whom  we  met  at  St.  Louis 
last  year)  is  one  of  its  professors.  You  will  remember 
that  the  firsl  Bible  that  was  printed  in  [reland,  was  in 
this  city  of  Belfast.  The  Methodisl  denomination  arc 
erecting  (nearly  opposite  to  Queen's)  a  very  fine  college 
building,  the  material  of  which  is  stone  and  brick.  At 
the  Museum  we  were  told  we  should  find  some  rare 
Irish  antiquities;  and  for  believing  it,  we  were  cheated 
out  of  two  shillings,  to  look  at  Borne  birds  and  Sand- 
wich Island  curiosities.  In  examining  goods,  silk  and 
linen,  we  were  surprised  to  find  not  more  than  twenty 
per  cent,  difference  in  prices,  but  I  think  perhaps  there 
may  be  a  greater  contrast  in  silk.  We  lunched  at  one 
o'clock,  started  for  Armagh,  and  arrived  at  half-past 
three  on  the  afternoon  of  Tuesday,  a  market  day  for  all 
the  country  round.  The  streets  were  filled  with  peo- 
ple offering  their  produce  for  sale;  such  a  gathering 
3'ou  or  I  never  saw,  nor  do  I  believe  it  could  be  seen 
outside  of  Ireland.  Men,  women,  boys,  girls,  little 
children,  pigs,  cows,  sheep,  dogs,  horses,  mules,  and 
donkeys,  all  huddled  together  on  the  sidewalks  and  in 
the  middle  of  the  streets.  This  we  saw  in  part  as  we 
drove  up  to  the  "Beresford  Arms,"  and  as  we  entered 
the  trout  door,  on  a  level  with  the  street,  we  fell  like 
throwing  up  our  arms,  and  heating  a  hasty  retreal  :  but 


££  HOME     LETTERS. 

second  thought  induced  us  to  explore  a  little  beyond. 
Our  search  carried  us  up  three  pairs  of  stairs,  we  were 
shown  into  the  only  unoccupied  bed-room  in  the 
house,  a  dirty,  comfortless  looking  place  to  lodge  in, 
having  no  curtains  at  the  windows,  no  valance  around 
the  bed,  and  no  reflector  to  increase  our  vanity.     There 

were  two  chairs  to  sit  upon.     To  J 's  questioning 

look,  I  responded  by  saying,  "  Oh,  yes ;  it's  only  for  a 
night,  we  will  stay,  only  stipulate  that  our  meals  may 
be  served  in  the  parlor,  (if  they  have  any,)  and  not  in 
the    common    dining-room."     After    the   matter    was 

satisfactorily  arranged,  J proposed  to  get  a  car  and 

drive  around  and  through  the  town,  to  which  I  as- 
sented, although  I  was  very  tired.  We  drove  through 
the  grounds  of  the  Archbishop  of  Armagh,  they  were 
very  extensive,  but  not  so  beautiful  as  many  others 
that  we  have  seen. 

The  old  cathedral  is  the  most  attractive  building  in 
Armagh  ;  the  stained  glass  windows  are  of  great  value 
and  beauty,  and  the  statuary  is  finer  than  any  we  have 
seen.  St.  Patrick  himself  laid  the  corner-stone  of  this 
church,  it  is  said,  and  the  archbishop  preceding  the 
present  incumbent  expended  three  hundred  thousand 
pounds  in  beautifying  the  building.  Dr.  Edgar  is  the 
pastor  of  the  Presbyterian  church.  Armagh  is  not  an 
unattractive  looking  town ;  many  of  the  public  build- 
ings are  very  large,  and  most  of  the  private  residences 
are  at  least  comfortable,  some  of  the  stores  are  exten- 
sive and  made  quite  a  tempting  display  of  goods  in 
their  windows.  But,  we  were  more  interested  in 
watching  these  peculiar  people  in  the  streets — after 
their  marketing  was  sold  and  disposed  of,  they  did  one 
of  two  things,  either  bought  some  little  comforts  to 
carry  home,  or  got  happily  drunk;  and  we  were  in- 
clined to  believe  that  the  majority  did  the  latter,  judg- 


'n*W  :•+*?**  f<i 


ri;  i)  M    a  BRO A  n.  ;.; 

in.'-  from  the  Qumber  that  we  saw  Btaggering  along  the 
streets.  In  the  evening,  after  our  ride,  we  amused  our- 
selves watching  them  from  the  upper  windows.  Just 
opposite  there  was  a  bakery— to  this  Bhop  all  the  better 
class  went  to  buy,  as  an  unusual  treat,  a  loaf  of  baker's 
bread.  This  was  our  inference,  from  observing  how 
carefully  they  handled  it,  how  neatly  they  wrapped  it 
up,  and  then  as  it'  to  secrete  the  dainty  bit  from  envious 
eye.-,  they  put  it  under  the  hay  in  the  bottom  of  the 
cart.  Some  of  the  women  were  leading  donkeys, 
others  pulling  cars,  while  the  lazy  men  walked  behind, 
consulting  their  ease  and  smoking  Long  clay  pipes. 
But  I  forgot  to  tell  you  of  our  evening  meal  :  when  we 
returned  from  our  ride,  a  neat  looking  serving  man 
opened  the  door  of  a  cosey  little  parlor,  and  asking  us 
to  enter,  said  "supper  will  be  ready  very  soon."  I 
noticed  in  a  moment,  that  the  carpet  upon  the  floor 
was  the  same  pattern  that  sister  Jennie  has  in  her 
bed-room:  and  the  rug  like  the  one  in  our  dining- 
room  at  home.  Were  we  not  happy  at  once,  with 
our  pleasant  memories:  and  do  you  not  believe  that 
our  supper  was  made  more  palatable  with  such  sur- 
roundings?    It   was  a   well   prepared   meal,  and   J 

enjoyed  it  very  much.  Our  attendant  knew  us  as 
Americans,  and  immediately  told  us  he  had  a  sister  in 
Philadelphia,  and  that  she  lived  uin  Eighth  street." 
Before  retiring  the  proprietor  of  the  hotel  came  in  to 
explain,  that  any  noise  we  might  hear  during  the 
night,  he  hoped  would  not  disturb  us,  as  it  would  be 
accounted  for,  by  saying  that  there  was  t<>  he  ;i  Masonic 
dinner  in  the  house.  Next  morning,  dune  26th,  we 
left  Armagh,  at  halt-past  eleven,  taking  our  tickets  to 
Omagh,  an  intermediate  place,  between  the  former  and 
Deny,  as  I  was  quite  sick,  and  feared  that  I  should  not 
be   able   to   make   the   whole  journey,   a    distance   of 


jfi  HOME     LETTERS. 

seventy-five  miles  ;  but  when  we  reached  that  point, 
we  concluded  it  was  safer  to  go  on. 

Arriving  at  Londonderry  at  3  p.  m.,  we  drove  im- 
mediately to  the  "International,"  where  I  found  my 
will  and  strength  quite  exhausted,  having  eating  noth- 
ing since  the  day  before.  I  was  obliged  to  retire  at 
once,  and  feared  that  I  was  going  to  have  a  regular 
attack  of  neuralgia  ;  but  after  a  sleep  of  two  hours  in  a 
cool,  clean  bed,  I  felt  refreshed,  and  could  take  a  cup  of 
tea  brought  me  by  a  tidy  chambermaid,  who  wore  (as 
they  all  do)  a  jaunty  little  cap ;  they  are  very  pretty, 

and  some  of  the  girls  too.     During  this  interval,  J 

hired  a  car  and  drove  out  to  Craig,  a  distance  of  five 
miles,  to  see  his  father's  brother.  He  succeeded  in  find- 
ing the  old  gentleman,  who  is  now  eighty  years  of  age, 
spent  a  half  hour  with  the  family,  and  when  he  left, 
gave  them  a  conditional  promise,  that  if  I  was  well 
enough,  we  would  pass  part  of  the  next  day  with  them. 
(That  was  June  the  27th.)  I  felt  much  better,  and 
quite  able  to  bear  the  fatigue  of  the  ride,  and  was  very 
anxious  to  see  these  Irish  relations,  and  we  first  deter- 
mined to  find  Andrew  Mcllvain,  whom  J tried  to 

find  the  day  before,  but  somehow  missed  the  direction. 
The  place  where  he  lives  is  called  Tillie  Arden.  As 
we  were  approaching  this  town,  we  saw  a  man  coming 

towards  us,  and  as  he  came  nearer  J and  I  both 

exclaimed  "  Joseph  Mcllvain  !"   We  stopped,  he  waited 

to    know   what    inquiry    we    had    to    make.     J 

addressed  him  by  asking,  "  are  you  not  Andrew 
Mcllvain  ?"  His  reply  was,  "  that  is  my  name  sir  ?  and 
who   are  you  ?"     "  My  name   is  Joseph   Allison,  and 

this  is  Mrs.  A ,"  J said,  "  and  we  have  come 

out  to  see  you."  "  And  glad  I  am  to  see  you,"  was  his 
hearty  response,  and  then  in  an  undertone  to  himself, 
he  said,  "  well !  well  1  this  is  Judge  Allison,  that  I  have 


/  /,'  0  M     A  B  R  0  A  i>. 

heard  bo  much  about,"  and   then  to  us,  "I'm  glad  to 

you;  my  home  is  just  here,  a  little  way  beyond, 

you  will  send   your  car  back  to  the  city  and  stay  with 

ii~.'*  We  were  soon  at  tin'  door  of"  his  house,  he  took 
ii-  in,  brought  his  wife  and  children  forward  and  mad'' 
us  acquainted  with  each  one  by  name.  Mrs.  Mcllvain 
is  a  very  interesting  and  agreeable  person,  an  excellent 
wife  and  a  kind  mother  I  have  no  doubt;  and  as  to 
Mr.  Mcllvain,  he  is  as  much  like  his  brother  Joseph 
in  St.  Louis,  as  it  is  possible  for  two  persons  to  be 
alike;  he  has  the  same  childlike  disposition,  the  same 
warmth  of  heart,  unselfish  and  self-denying, — and, 
judging  from  his  conversation,  is  evidently  a  man  that 
lives  near  to  his  God.  We  were  prevailed  upon  to  stay 
to  lunch;  and  the  blessing  that  he  asked  at  table  ran 
into  the  length  of  a  prayer,  in  which  he  "thanked  his 
Heavenly  Father  for  the  favor  of  permitting  us  to 
make  him  this  visit,"  and  prayed  for  ns  in  such  tender 
terms,  that  I  know  my  eyes,  at  least,  were  suffused 
with  tears.  The  whole  interview  has  left  on  our 
minds  a  most  delightful  impression,  and  X  shall  not 
soon  forget  the  good  man's  prayer,  or  the  sincere  piety 
that  pervaded  his  conversation. 

Our  second  visit  was  less  cordial,  at  Uncle  Joseph's. 
Mr.  Mcllvain  drove  us  over,  as  we  had,  at  his  sugges- 
tion, discharged  our  car;  and  we  found  the  family 
were  all  waiting  to  receive  us.  The  old  gentleman  is 
quite  feeble,  but  was  up  and  dressed  in  black  clothes, 
shorts,  knee  buckles,  white  stockings,  and  slippers,  and 
his  hair  is  very  black,  with  not  many  gray  ones  inter- 
mixed. We  saw  only  three  of  his  grandchildren,  one 
a  Mrs.  Stewart.  Wine  and  cake  with  sandwiches  were 
passed;  after  which  we  chatted  for  a  half  hour,  and 
then,  at  Mr.  Mcllvain's  very  earnest  pleading,  we 
returned  to  his  house  to   pass  an   hour,  and   his  wife 


£8  HOME     LETTERS. 

greeted  us  again  as  cordially  as  if  we  were  old 
acquaintances.  "We  took  a  short  walk 'down  along  the 
river  hank,  out  to  a  coast  guard  station  ;  and  after  that 
Mr.  Mcllvain  carried  us  to  the  city  in  his  jaunting- 
car,  and  we  both  felt  sorry  that  we  had  to  say  "  good- 
bye" to  him  at  the  hotel  door. 

June  28.  We  were  off  for  Port  Rush  at  half  past 
ten,  but  before  starting,  we  made  the  effort  to  see  some- 
thing of  Deny,  and  took  a  short  walk  upon  a  portion 
of  the  old  wall,  which  is  in  a  very  good  state  of  preser- 
vation, and  not  allowed  to  fall  into  decay.  In  the 
centre  of  the  city  is  a  square,  called  the  Diamond,  from 
each  side  of  which,  four  streets  lead  to  the  four  prin- 
cipal gates  of  the  city.  The  monument  erected  to  the 
memory  of  the  Rev.  George  Walker  is  considered  one 
of  the  chief  ornaments  of  this  place,  and  it  was  just 
in  view  from  our  bed-room  wxindow ;  and  in  the 
enclosure  at  its  base,  are  three  or  four  old  guns  that 
were  used  in  the  siege — a  siege  that  was  sustained  one 
hundred  and  five  days,  while  the  people  were  reduced 
to  the  extremity  of  eating  dogs  and  rats.  It  is  said 
that  over  two  thousand  died  by  famine.  When  reading 
Charlotte  Elizabeth's  account  of  those  terrible  days,  I 
little  thought  that  I  should  ever  stand  upon  the  old 
walls  of  Londonderry.  I  tried  to  chip  oft'  a  piece  of 
stone  for  Will,  but  could  not  succeed,  it  was  so  firmly 
imbedded  in  mortar. 

Just  at  twilight,  on  the  evening  before,  J and  I 

went  over  to  the  Cathedral,  it  was  too  dark  to  see 
anything  satisfactorily,  but  we  saw  the  colors  taken 
at  the  siege.  The  bridge  that  we  crossed  in  passing 
over  the  river  Foyle  was  erected  by  an  American 
engineer  and  is  a  very  fine  one.  The  suburb  of 
Waterford  is  a  very  pretty  place,  we  passed  through  it 


WAlJtXK  8   J-ILLA*.  LOHDONnKUY. 


THE  JArNTlVi-- 


/'/.'  0  M     A  B  B  0  A  I) .  ;.'y 

.hi  our  way  to  the  depot.  Porl  Rush  is  a  neal  little 
town,  and  a  favorite  resorl  for  sea  bathing,  where  we 
arrived  at  one  o'clock,  remaining  al  "  Coleman's  "  only 
long  enough  to  secure  a  car  to  carry  as  beyond  (eighl 
miles)  to  that  world's  worider,  the  "  <  liant's  <  Jauseway." 
Two  Americans  occupied  scats  with  us.     ('apt.   Wiley. 

U.  S.  X.,  is  related  to  Judge  L s'  family  in  W.  I'. ; 

before  we  separated  at  night,  lie  offered,  and  we  ac- 
cepted Lis  proffer,  to  carry  a  message  to  you  direct. 
The  name  of  the  other  gentleman  was  Baldwin.  We 
reached  the  Causeway  by  half  past  three;  ami  altera 
hasty  lunch,  we  determined  to  explore  its  wonders  be- 
fore dark,  having  secured  a  guide  and  four  stout 
fellows  to  row  us  ,-<'H ml.  We  were  oil'  with  our  two 
companions,  and  had  to  walk  a  distance  of  half  a  mile 
to  reach  the  boat,  over  a  stony  pathway,  down  a  steep 
hill.  The  tide  was  up,  the  surf  running  high,  and  it 
seemed  a  dangerous  thing  to  get  into  that  trail  little 
skiff,  and  I  believe  it  affected  my  timid  nerves,  for  we 
were  not  out  twenty  minutes,  before  I  began  to  feel 
sick.  Mr.  Baldwin's  lips  looked  blue,  and  in  less  than 
an  hour  we  were  satisfied  to  put  hack  to  shore,  hut  I 
musl  give  you  our  impressions  of  this  natural  wonder. 
That  we  were  all  disappointed,  was  to  a  certain  extent 
no  doubt  attributable  to  our  condition,  both  of  body 
and  mind.  The  hay  called  the  Giant's  Amphitheatre, 
is  certainlv  a  wonderful  formation ;  the  half  circle  is  so 
exact  that  no  architect  could  have  made  it  more  so. 
Close  to  this  was  the  Giant's  organ,  so  called  from  the 
fancied  resemblance  it  seems  to  have  to  the  pipes  of  an 
organ.  Opposite  to  that  again  is  Ins  loom,  and  there 
are  several  isolated  columns  Called  the  chimney  top-. 
from  the  likeness  they  hear  to  the  chimney-  of  a  castle. 
There  are  many  more  of  these  fancied  resemblances,  to 
which    names   have   been   given    by    the   people;  the 


SO  HOME     LE  T  TEES. 

Giant's  bed,  his  well,  his  bonnet,  his  bagpipes,  and  the 
chair  in  which  the  Giant  sat  while  his  men  built  the 
causeway,  etc.  Our  boatman  landed  us  on  the  basaltic 
pillars,  and  this  seemed  to  us  decidedly  the  most  won- 
derful formation  of  all.  These  pillars  are  of  different 
shapes,  but  their  sides  are  fitted  to  each  other  with  such 
exact  nicety,  that  no  human  skill  could  excel,  and  they 
form  a  pavement  somewhat  resembling  a  honey-comb 
or  wasp's  nest,  over  which  you  can  walk  with  perfect 
safety.  They  are  impervious  to  water,  and  the  dif- 
ferent pieces  cannot  be  separated  except  by  force.  Our 
guide  told  us  that  only  the  day  previous,  an  American 
gentleman  had  succeeded  in  having  two  columns  de- 
tached, with  the  intention  of  having  them  taken  to 
America,  to  ornament  his  garden ;  and  the  cost  for 
their  transportation  to  Liverpool  was  £5.  Coleman's 
hotel  at  the  Causeway  is  a  well  ordered  house,  where 
we  had  a  good  chamber,  a  comfortable  supper,  and  an 
early  breakfast ;  as  our  determination  was,  after  talk- 
ing the  matter  over,  not  to  go  back  by  rail  to  Belfast, 
but  to  take  an  open  car  and  go  round  the  eastern  coast 
to  get  the  shore  views.  So  we  started  at  half-past  six, 
and  rode  a  distance  of  thirteen  miles  to  a  neat  little 
town  called  Ballycastle,  where  we  paid  our  car-man  and 
discharged  him,  to  take  the  Mail  Post.  A  delay  of  an 
hour  gave  us  time  to  rest  in  the  neat  little  parlor  of 
the  inn,  and  then  we  were  off  to  Cushendal,  (foot  of  the 
river,)  passing  by  Cushendule,  (foot  of  the  brown  hill.) 
At  Cushendal  we  had  to  change  conveyances  again,  and 
take  seats  in  an  open  post-van  to  Larn.  The  whole 
distance  from  the  Causeway  is  fifty-four  miles ;  but  what 
will  astonish  you  more  is,  that  I  rode  the  last  stage  of 
the  way  outside,  above  with  the  driver,  perched  on  the 

top  of  the  van,  with  J beside  me  on  the  left  to 

keep  me  from  falling  off.     I  must  describe  this  van ;  for 


/■'A'  0  '/     .1  B  R  0  .1  D.  .;/ 

we  have  aothing  like  it  in  our  own  country.  In  Bhape 
it  is  like  iin  Qmnibus,  about  that  length,  bu1  not  en- 
closed, ami  the  seats  arc  outside,  facing  out, with  a  toot 
rest,  l'tit  no  covering  above  the  head.  The  intervening 
space,  (between  the  seats,)  Bay  t  wo  feet  and  a  half,  is  to 
carry  the  baggage;  and  thisday  it  was  filled,  and  piled 
up  above  the  heads  of  the  people.  Now  you  will  un- 
derstand that,  seated  on  one  side,  yon  miss  the  view  on 
the  other,  and  this  I  could  not  make  up  my  mind  to 
do. 

So,  with   J 'h   assistance,  I  clambered  over  the 

wheels  to  the  higher  seal  above,  and  there  my  eyes 
were  fascinated  with  the  grandest  views  they  ever  be- 
held ;  for  they  were  perfectly  glorious.  The  road,  which 
was  as  level  and  smooth  as  a  floor,  ran  along  the  coast 
shore  almost  all  the  way,  so  we  had  the  ocean  view- 
contrasted  with  the  headland's,  the  one  setting  off  the 
other  to  great  advantage.  Some  of  these  headlands 
jutted  far  out  into  the  sea,  then  receding,  formed  small 
bays  and  inlets;  bordering  upon  these  little  coves,  we 
often  came  unexpectedly  upon  a  cluster  of  pretty  cot- 
tages with  garden  plots  around  them,  which  were 
sheltered  by  the  overhanging  cliffs,  and  they  had  a 
very  warm  and  cozy  atmosphere  about  them.  One 
place  called  "Cornlough"  looked  so  much  like  a  New 
England  village,  that  we  were  charmed  with  it,  and 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  there  must  be  some  pious 
people  controlling  village  affairs,  as  the  church  spire 
towered  high  above  all  the  dwellings.  These  towns  are 
slimmer  resorts  for  the  gentry,  1  have  no  doubt.  At  a 
place  called  Glenarm  we  changed  horses,  and  while 
that  was  being  accomplished,  a  half  dozen  impertinent 
officials  walked  around  the  van,  scrutinizing  us  closely, 
evidently  on  the  look  out  forsuspected  persons,  Fenians 
in  disguise.     I  must  confess  I  felt  quite  relieved  when 


52  HOME     LETTERS. 

we  drove  off,  and  none  the  less  when  our  driver,  in  a 
communicative  mood,  told  us  that  only  a  day  or  two 
before,  a  gentleman  was  arrested  in  this  place  and  de- 
tained three  days.   I  began  to  think  what  I  should  do  if 

they  carried  J off'  perforce,  as  it  would  be  no  comfort 

for  me  in  such  an  event  to  know  that  I  held  the  purse " 
in  safe  keeping.  On  one  of  the  highest  points  of  these 
rugged  promontories  was  the  castle  of  the  Marchioness 
of  Londonderry,  a  lady  who  when  alive  (she  has  been 
dead  two  years)  thought  herself  the  Queen's  superior. 
It  was  a  magnificent  old  castle,  its  dark  battlements 
and  towers  overgrown  with  ivy  and  mosses,  relieving 
its  sombre  hues  by  their  bright,  rich  shades  of  coloring  ; 
making  it  a  lovely  picture,  with  a  massive  frame—the 
overtowering  cliff.  All  along  the  coast  we  saw  men, 
women  and  children  of  all  ages,  gathering  a  sea  grass 
or  moss,  that  is  called  dulce,  which  is  in  great  demand 

by  the  gentry,  who  eat  it  when  dry.     J bought 

some  ;  the  taste  he  thought  quite  pleasant — I  did  not 
like  it ;  it  was  very  salt.  A  coarser  grass  called  kelp 
they  collect  in  immense  quantities  which  they  burn, 
and  from  the  ashes  Iodine  is  extracted ;  and  for  these 
ashes  they  get  only  £5  or  £G,  in  money,  per  ton.  "We 
saw  vast  quantities  of  it  spread  out  on  the  ground  to 
dry,  and  stacks  in  large  numbers  piled  up  ready  to  burn. 
"What  a  struggle  for  life,  to  get  daily  bread,  (not  meat,) 
just  under  the  walls  of  the  rich,  where  they  know  there 
is  enough  and  to  spare.  If  it  were  not  for  their  re- 
ligious faith  and  superstitions,  they  would  not  so  easily 
submit  to  what  to  us  seems  an  unendurable  condition. 

At  Larn  we  made  a  very  close  connection  with  the 
train,  only  having  five  minutes  to  spare,  just  time 
enough  to  secure  our  tickets  for  Belfast,  where  we  ar- 
rived at  half-past  5  p.  m.,  took  a  cab,  first  drove  to  the 
office  of  the  Liverpool  steamers,  secured  a  state-room 


FROM     All  11  <>AD. 

and  passage  in  a  steamer  going  oul  al  eighl  o'clock, 
then  drove  to  the  [nternational,  ordered  our  supper, 
and  while  it  was  being  prepared,  washed  and  brushed 
up ;  for  you  may  imagine  that  after  so  long  a  ride  we 
were  somewhat  out  of  condition.  When  thai  was  ac- 
complished, we  enjoyed  our  supper  immensely,  having 
had  nothing  to  eat  but  a  few  crackers  Bince  we  lefl  the 
Causeway,  ye1  even  with  that  denial  I  would  rather 
have  fasted  two  days  than  to  have  missed  that  ridi  and 
its  magnificent  views.    On  hoard  the  strainer,  a  half  hour 

before  the  t  ime  of  starting,  J and  I  enjoyed  sitt  ing 

in  the  twilight  talking  over  our  novel  experienci  -. 
taking  our  last  views  of  the  city  and  the  shores  of 
Ireland,  confessing  to  a  feeling  of  sadness  and  regret  in 
leaving  this  beautiful  land.  We  have  no  expectation 
that  anything  we  may  see  beyond  will  interest  us  half 
so  much,  for  this  odd  and  peculiar  people  have  given  as 
great  sources  of  pleasure. 

It  was  Sabbath  morning  when  we  landed  at  the  pier 

in  Liver] 1,  at  eight  o'clock,  took  a  cab  and  drove  to 

the  Queen's  hotel,  which  is  quite  near  the  Lime  Street 
Station,  where  we  are  to  take  cars  for  London.  I  y 
very  much  fatigued  and  did  not  need  the  motion  of  the 
vessel  to  rock  me  a  lullaby  to  sleep  last  night:  I  slept 
soundly,  and  cannot  say  whether  the  channel  was 
rough  or  not,  and  that  passage  in  the  night  carried  us 
over  into  "merrie  Old  England."  Passing  through 
the  Streets  I  Baw  nothing  that  was  odd  or  peculiar,  ex- 
cept a  queer  kind  of  cab  called  a  "Hansom."  It  is 
something  like  an  enclosed  gig  set  quite  low  between 
the  wheels;  the  sides  and  front  can  be  enclosed  at 
pleasure,  the  view  is  not  obstructed,  as  above  and  at 
the  sides  it  is  panelled  in  glass.  The  driver's  seat  is 
behind,  high  up;  so  that  his  lines  are  not  entangled 
when   you  pass  out  or  in  the  cab,  and  you  give  your 


54 


HOME     LETTERS. 


directions  through  a  little  trap  door  above  }rour  head. 
The  hour  for  church  service  here  is  eleven  o'clock.     As 

soon  as  we  had  breakfasted,  J started  out  to  look 

for  a  Presbyterian  house  of  worship,  and  he  was 
directed  to  two  or  three  called  Presbyterian,  but  they 
all  turned  out  to  be  Episcopalian.  A  police  officer 
pointed  out  a  fourth,  that  he  assured  him  ivas  what  he 
was  in  pursuit  }of.  His  mind  being  quite  relieved,  he 
walked  in,  took  a  seat,  listened  to  the  sermon  about 
twenty  minutes,  discovered  there  was  a  mistake  some- 
where, and  when  passing  out,  asked  a  person  with  what 
denomination  that  church  was  connected.  "  Unita- 
rian "  was  the  answer.  I  was  too  weary  to  make  the 
effort  to  go  out,  but  sat  at  the  front  window,  and  was 
interested  in  watching  a  crowd  of  people,  who  had 
gathered  to  listen  to  a  layman  who  was  preaching 
with  great  earnestness  to  them,  judging  from  his  rapid 
and  violent  gesticulations. 

M.  C.  A. 


/•'/.'  <)   M      A  B  E  0  A  />.  .-,.-, 


LiVi  rpool, 

Monday,  July  1.  1867. 

I  cannot  let  M send  off  this  morning  her  second 

letter  home,  without  penning  a  postscripl  to  go  along 
with  it.  We  arc  for  the  first  time  in  our  lives  upon 
the  soil  of  England,  "merrie  England"  as  it  once  was 
called,  though  things  look  to  us  here,  to  be  as  staid  and 

busy  as  they  do  at  home.     M lias  written  you  a 

full  account  of  our  journey  through  [reland,  which  we 
both  enjoyed  very  much,  and  I  have  with  her  a  feel- 
ing of  regret  at  leaving  its  green  fields,  and  its  ivy  cov- 
ered walls  and  ruins,  its  beautiful  flowers,  and  its  old 
associations  of  kingly  and  lordly  power  which  have 
passed  away  forever.  The  castles  and  towers  were  of 
great  extent,  and  were  so  strong  as  to  defy  all  the  ordi- 
nary modes  of  attack.  I  went  over  Blarney  Castle  and 
climbed  its  narrow  and  worn  steps  of  stone  to  its  top, 

while  M waited   lor  me  on  the  green  below.     The 

steps  wind  circuitously  from  loop-hole  to  fighting  room. 
showing  how  much  these  ancient  strongholds  were 
used  as  places  of  refuge  and  defence,  in  the  days  of 
Ireland's  bloody  and  frequent  wars,  so  long  and  so 
fiereelv  washed  hciween  the  savage  kings  and  nobles. 
Projecting  from  the  walls  of  the  castle  at  it-  top  is  a 
battlement  of  stone,  which  served  as  a  protection  to  the 
defenders  of  the  building,  who  with  great  safety  to 
themselves,  could  thus  assail  an  attacking  party  from 
their  elevated  position,  casting  upon  their  beads  -tone 
and  other  missiles,  and  even  pour  upon  them  boiling 
lea<  1 . 

Minnie,  who  venerates  antiquity,  would  be  delighted 


56  HOME     LETTERS. 

if  she  could  visit  the  decaying  castles  which  abound  in 
Ireland ;  and  indeed  I  do  not  think  that  any  one  could 
go  over  these  ruined  seats  of  princely  power,  or  gaze 
upon  the  tombs  of  the  extinct  races  of  the  kings  of 
this  land,  which  are  now  moss  covered  and  crumbling 
away,  and  look  upon  it  all  unmoved. 

There  is  intense  interest  connected  with  these  me- 
morials of  the  mighty  dead  of  other  days,  as  well  as 
with  the  ruined  churches  and  Abbeys,  which  abound 
in  every  portion  of  this  land.  Long  will  it  be,  before 
we  shall  forget  our  visit  to  Muckross  Abbey,  which  is 
but  one  among  many  others,  which  we  have  not  seen. 
Beautiful  is  this  Abbey,  in  that  which  yet  remains  of 
it ;  in  its  pleasant  surrounding  of  lawn  and  stately 
avenue  ;  and  sacred  and  solemn  to  us  seemed  the  spot, 
where  rests  in  peace,  the  dust  of  so  many  kings  and 
Abbots.  It  would  be  pleasant  to  spend  a  month  instead 
of  ten  days  here  as  we  have  done ;  and  tourist  from 
America  are  learning  how  well  they  are  repaid  by  a 
visit  to  this  green  isle  of  the  sea.  But  there  is  another 
reason  for  the  interest  I  take  in  this  land ;  it  is  asso- 
ciated with  the  home  conversations  of  my  early  days. 

M has  written  you  of  our  visit  to  Armagh,  where 

mother  was  born ;  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  my 
sensations  when  first  I  entered  the  quaint  old  city, 
with  its  winding,  crooked  streets,  and  scenes  of  life 
and  bustle.  It  was  market  day,  and  the  only  oppor- 
tunity I  had  of  seeing  an  Irish  town  when  the  popu- 
lation of  a  neighborhood  turn  out  to  sell  whatever 
they  can  obtain  from  their  farms.  It  was  an  odd 
collection ;  from  the  thrifty,  successful  man  of  toil  and 
industry,  (his  wife  generally  with  him,  and  often  the 
children,)  to  the  boys  dressed  in  rags,  tattered  rags  of 
all  descriptions  and  colors,  into  which  people  put  them- 
selves in  this  country.     I  rose  up  early  in  the  morning 


FB  0  M     A  BROAD. 

before  many  of  the  town's  people  were  Btirring,  and 
directed  my  steps  to  the  graveyard  of  the  old  Presby- 
terian church,  making  my  way  through  an  opening  in 
the  hedge,  which  a  man  upon  request  pointed  oul  to 
me,  the  gate  being  locked. 

I  made  diligent  examination  of  the  tombstones 
to  find  some  memorial  of  the  dead  kindred  of  my 
mother.  Many  of  the  graves  were  withoul  anything 
to  indicate  who  their  occupants  were,  and  my  search 
was  fruitless:  nor  could  I  learn  that  any  of  the  uame 
of  Andrews  now  lived  in  Armagh;  as  I  thus  employed 
myself,  and  wandered  in  the  early  morning  around  the 
town,  passing  perhaps  over  the  vow  spol  where  mother 
in  her  childhood  was  accustomed  to  play,  how  bw<  I 
and  tmder  the  recollection  of  that  mother  was  to  me; 
dear  mother!  with  her  loving  heart,  so  full  of  affection 
for  all  who  had  claim  upon  her;  so  overflowing  in  her 
love  for  her  children  and  family.  Precious  to  those 
who  knew  her,  is  the  memory  of  her  gentle,  kind  and 
unselfish  nature,  loving  all  and  by  all  beloved. 

I  could  have  spent  a  week  in  Armagh  with  interest, 
for  the  very  associations  by  which  I  found  myself  sur- 
rounded, seemed  to  make  me  feel  like  a  hoy  again, 
and  bring  hack  to  me  the  days  when  mother  was  to 
me  like  the  sun  to  the  flowers.  I  would  have  liked 
much  to  remain  longer  in  Armagh,  hut  we  had  to  take 
an  early  departure  from  our  comfortable  quarters  at  the 

inn,  and  proceed  to  Deny.     M has  described  our 

visit  there,  which  was  also  brief,  and  here,  too,  I  found 
myself  familiar  with  the  places  by  which  I  was  sur- 
rounded: Craig  and  Muff,  and  Culmore,  and  the  ra 
course  and  sheep  walk,  and.  Sir  George  Bill's  grounds, 
of  which  I  had  heard  so  often;  and  as  I  drove  out 
along  the  road  from  Derry  to  Craig,  the  place  where 
father   was    horn,   in    imagination   I   could    sec    him 

5 


58 


HOME     LETTERS. 


walking  along  the  road,  which  must  have  been  so 
familiar  to  him  in  his  youthful  days.     But  I  must  not 

repeat  what  M has  written  of  our  visit  to  Derry  ; 

time  presses  for  our  start  at  nine  o'clock,  and  we  have 
yet  to  get  trunks  ready  and  breakfast.  We  have  not 
been  delayed  a  moment  since  we  came  here,  and  what 
is  very  remarkable  for  Ireland,  have  had  no  rain,  nor 
the  usual  warmth  of  the  season,  which  would  make 
travel  uncomfortable. 

J.  A. 


FROM     ABROAD.  r,'j 


Mailed  at  Paris^ 
July  J .'.  1867. 

Monday^  July  J.  We  left  Liverpool  this  morning  at 
nine  o'clock,  accomplished  the  distance  (two  hundred 
miles)  in  six  hours,  up  to  this  big,  overgrown,  bustling 

city  of  London.  I  counted  no  loss  than  nine  tunnels 
between  the  two  cities,  sonic  two  or  three  at  Least, 
were  no1  less  than  two  miles  in  length,  long  enough 
for  lovers  to  have  kissed  in  the  dark — middle-aged  peoph 
never  do  such  silly  things?  Our  informants  had  told 
us  that  this  great  northwestern  road  passed  directly 
through  what  was  considered  the  very  garden  of  Engr 
land,  but  it  did  not  so  impress  us,  we  saw  very  little 
improvement  over  Ireland  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
farms.  The  dwellings  were  much  better,  more  com- 
fortable in  appearance,  and  almost  all  were  two  stories 
high,  built  of  stone  or  brick,  with  slate  or  tile  roofing 
instead  of  thatch  ;  and  they  have  barns  for  their  grain 
and  cattle,  but  in  Ireland  the  hay  is  all  stacked  out. 
In  a  great  many  places,  and  for  long  distances,  we 
noticed  that  the  hedges  wen-  dying  out,  and  that  either 
iron  or  rail  fences  had  been  substituted;  this,  to  a 
certain  extent,  is  an  obstruction  to  the  view,  and 
destroys  the  beauty  of  the  landscape.  In  passing 
through  several  large  manufacturing  town-  we  made 
only  one  stoppage,  at  a  junction  road  near  Rugby; 
which  was  an  aggravation  to  my  over-sensitive  uerv<  3, 
that  were  on  the  alert  for  an  accident  that  did  nor 
come  to  pass,  and  in  seasonable  time  we  were  landed  in 
safety  at  the  depot  in  the  city  of  London.  "We  di- 
rected  our   "  Hansom "  man  to   take    us   at    once   to 


60  UO  ME     LETTERS. 

Charing  Cross  station,  which  he  did  for  the  moderate 
charge  of  two  shillings,  and  from  this  station  the  cars 
start  for  Dover,  via  Calais  to  Paris.  It  was  our  inten- 
tion to  secure  a  safe  place  of  deposit  for  our  baggage, 
purchase  our  through  tickets  on  the  train  going  out  in 
the  evening  at  half-past  eight,  and  then  go  in  search  of 
a  dinner.  But  we  were  saved  this  trouble,  by  the  con- 
siderate thoughtfulness  of  our  porter,  who  informed  us 
that  there  was  an  excellent  hotel  attached  to  the  depot, 
and  under  the  management  of  the  railroad  company. 
We  determined  to  avail  ourselves  of  its  accommoda- 
tions, and  I  am  now  writing  in  room  !No.  30,  Charing 
Cross  hotel ;  and  a  very  neat,  tidy,  comfortable  room  it 
is,  with  clean  white  curtains  at  the  window  and  around 
the  bed ;  the  tempting  pillows  look  very  inviting  to 
my  veary  head,  but  I  cannot  indulge  myself  to  that 
extent,  unless  I  deny  you  the  satisfaction  of  knowing 
how  we  are  progressing  on  our  journey.  Our  dinner 
was  well  prepared  and  promptly  served ;  we  had 
broiled  beefsteak,  potatoes  and  coffee,  with  rhubarb 
pie,  and  before  that,  we  had  what  we  enjoyed  more 
than  all,  after  our  dusty  ride,  a  good  warm  bath,  for 
the  day  was  excessively  hot,  and  the  dust  was  veiy 

annoying.     J complimented  me  by  saying  "  that 

he  had  never  seen  my  face  so  dirty,"  and  I  could,  with 
equal  candor,  have  returned  the  compliment  as  apply- 
ing to  himself ;  but  exercised  my  forbearing  spirit  in 
allowing  him  to  enjoy  his  blissful  ignorance.  Here  is 
a  good  idea  for  tidy  housekeepers — at  the  back  of  the 
wash-stand  they  have  a  willow  mat,  woven  like  a 
basket  lid,  of  a  corresponding  width  with  the  stand, 
and  hung  up  against  the  wall  to  prevent  the  paper 
from  being  soiled  ;  and  this  is  another  good  suggestion 
— a  bench  two  feet  high,  three  feet  wide,  to  rest  a 
trunk  upon,  is  an  improvement  over  the  back-breaking 


r 

s 

r^ 

> 

e> 

Jo 

^ 

a 

fc> 

Q 

o 

o 

« 

o 

• 

c/i 

trc 

/■  BO  M     A  B  110  AD.  i;t 

process  of  Beating  yourself  <>n  the  floor  to  pack  your 
trunk. 

Tuesday,  July  .'.  After  a  resl  of  five  hours,  we  bade 
good-bye  for  the  presenl  to  London  and  all  its  attrac- 
tions. At  half-past  eight  in  the  evening,  we  were 
seated  in  the  cars,  and  a  ride  of  two  hours  and  a  half 
brought  ns  to  Dover.  The  channel  we  crossed  in  one 
hour  and  a  half,  and  i1  was  as  calm  and  unruffled  as  a 
summer's'  sea,  so  no  one  could  get  up  the  faintest 
shadow  of  an  excuse  forgetting  sick;  although  some 
fidgety  old  bodies  did  call  for  brandy  and  water,  as  a 
precaution  againsl  the  nausea,  that  they  were  asswrai 
they  must  and  would  experience,  if  they  did  not  swal- 
low something  as  a  preventive. 

From  Calais  to  Paris  occupied  six  hours.  Stations 
of  more  or  less  importance,  succeeded  each  other 
rapidly  as  the  train  approached  Paris,  and  among  them 
St.  Dennis,  where  the  kings  of  France  havehren  lmried 
for  centuries.  Then  followed  one  or  two  other  places  of 
less  importance,  and  at  last  the  train  passes  into  the 
depot  and  land-  ns  in  the  Frenchman's  Paradise.  We 
did  not  feel  in  the  least  like  celestial  visitors,  weary 
and  exhausted  as  we  were  from  loss  of  sleep  and  want 
of  refreshment  since  the  day  before,  and  our  human 
instincts  rebelled  loudly  against  the  forced  imprison- 
ment that  we  were  compelled  to  submit  to.  in  waiting 
one  hour  in  the  depot  under  lock  and  key.  until  all 
the  baggage  was  overhauled  or  superficially  examined 
by  the  custom-house  officers.  Our  two  satchels  they 
did  not  open,  I  suppose  for  the  plain  reason,  that  our 
faces  indicated  us  as  honest  folk,  in  spite  of  OUT  dnst- 
soiled  clothing,  but  all  things  disagreeable  (as  well  as 
pleasant)  must  have  an  ending,  and  in  due  time  we 
were  allowed  to   pass  the  harriers,  and  were  fie    •   .  - 


6%  HOME     LETTERS. 

cept  in  speech,)  to  select  from  a  dozen  gabbling,  chatter- 
ing Frenchmen,  one  that  would  carry  us  up  or  down 
(we  knew  not)  to  the  "  Grand  Hotel"  The  bargain 
was  made,  one  of  the  party  at  least  understanding  how 
much  the  compensation  was  to  be ;  we  seated  ourselves 
in  the  cab,  the  trunks  were  placed  above,  then  the  por- 
ter who  had  carried  them  out  from  the  depot  presented 
himself  at  the  door,  demanding  his  pay,  how  much  we 
could  not  tell,  he  jabbered  away  at  the  most  furious 
rate  and  the  only  word  we  could  make  out  was,  "bag- 
age,  bagage."     J opened  his  pocket-book,  handed 

him  some  English  money,  and  told  him  to  take  out  his 
charge ;  he  looked  at  the  coin  with  an  expression  that 
indicated  his  disgust  or  unwillingness  to  touch  the 
"foreigners"  but  finding  that  it  was  his  only  alternative, 
that  or  nothing,  he  made  the  change  for  a  crown, 
retaining  what  he  considered  an  equivalent  for  his 
services.  That  was  all  satisfactory ;  we  were  ready  to 
be  off,  started,  had  gone  a  short  distance,  when  the 
man  came  running  after  us  in  hot  haste,  calling  out,  at 
the  top  of  his  voice,  "  stop  !  stop  !"  presenting  himself 
a  second  time  at  the  cab  door,  his  face  in  a  heated  state 
of  excitement ;  he  extended  his  hand  containing  the 
money,  went  through  a  sort  of  dumb  show,  counting 
over  the  pieces  and  compelling  us  to  understand  that 
he  had  cheated  himself,  and  was  sixpence  short ;  the 
mistake  was  soon  rectified,  and  we  were  off  a  second 
time  for  the  Grand  Hotel.  We  enter  from  the  "  Boule- 
vard des  Capucines,"  pass  through  an  arch  way  into  an 
open  court  beyond ;  we  turn  to  the  left,  stop  at  the 
reception  office,  a  lackey,  dressed  like  a  gentleman,  in 
black  clothes  and  white  necktie,  comes  out,  opens  the 
coupe,  would  obsequiously  bow  us  out,  and  usher  us  up 
the  grand  stairway ;  but  we  are  not  quite  ready ;  we 
do  not  understand  his  French  ;  he  certainly  would  not 


FROM     ABROAD. 

understand  ours.    J in  desperation  says,  " Parlez- 

voqb  Anglais?"  he  comprehends  the  situation  al  once 
and  is  oft"  cornea  back  in  a  moment  or  two  bringing 
with  him  an  old  man,  who  la  reasonably  sensible, 
because  lie  can  speak  English.  Under  his  escort  we 
pass  up  three  or  four  flights  of  stairways,  through  a 
long  hall  that  terminates  in  a  circular  platform  that  is 
lighted  from  a  skylight  above;  then  we  enter  an  ante- 
room and  pass  into  our  rooms,  for  there  are  two;  one  is 
intended  as  a  dressing-room,  has  all  the  arrangements 
for  the  hath,  etc.;  the  other  is  parlor  and  bed-room 
combined,  and  it  has  two  single  beds,  both  canopied  in 
crimson  damask,  the  drapery  falling  from  above  on  three 
sides;  the  coverlets  arc.  of  the  same  material,  the  pil- 
lows sipiare  and  very  large,  covered  with  fine  linen  and 
lace  trimmings,  very  tempting  and  luxurious  they  look. 
Two  ease-invitine  arm-chairs,  five  wall  chairs,  dressing 
bureau,  wash-stand,  and  two  mirrors  from  the  ceiling 
down,  complete  the  furniture  of  the  apartments. 
What  we  are  to  pay  for  these  quarters  Ave  have  yet  to 
discover;  hut  my  impression  is  that  the  old  man  said 
about  six  dollars  a  day,  in  our  money,  and  this  includes 
nothing  but  the  logement,  all  the  meals  are  extra,  and 
service  and  attendance  are  charged  in  proportion  to  the 
-tvle  of  rooms  you  occupy.   To  gratify  my  desire  to  have 

everything  in  corresponding  good  taste,  J consulted 

my  whim  in  ordering  our  breakfasl  up  stairs,  where  we 
could  enjoy  a  cosey  chat  alone  and  without  interruption. 
Our  coffee  and  cream  were  excellent,  the  rolls  were 
feathery  light,  the  omelet  was  delicately  flavored  with 
parsley,  and  the  savory  chops  were  ornamented  with 
frilled  paper  at  the  tip  ends,  and  what  made  the  morn- 
ing meal  still  more  tempting  was  the  dainty  ueatnese 
with  which  all  the  dishes  were  placed  upon  the  table. 
J felt  so  much  invigorated  by  the  effects  ot'  the  deli- 


&£  HOME     LETTERS. 

cious  coffee,  that  he  concluded  to  start  out  immediately 
in  search  of  our  good  friends  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Dougherty. 
He  was  very  fortunate  in  meeting  Mr.  Kinsley  at 
the  entrance  door  of  the  hotel,  from  whom  he  learned 
that  they  were  at  the  Hotel  DeL'athenee,  only  two 
squares  off,  and  in  a  half  hour  he  returned  bringing 

with  him  Mrs.  D and  Mary  Forney.     Of  course 

we  were  delighted  to  see  each  other  so  far  from  home ; 
and  while  we  were  making  inquiries  as  to  how  they 
had  been  passing  the  time  since  we  parted  in  Philadel- 
phia, the  illustrious  Daniel  walked  himself  in,  "  larger 
than  life,  and  twice  as  natural,"  with  only  one  new 
embellishment,  he  has  grown  a  mustache,  and  we  think 
it  a  very  doubtful  improvement  to  his  handsome  face ; 
otherwise  he  is  the  same,  not  one  bit  spoiled,  the  same 
jovial,  warm  hearted,  sympathetic,  good  fellow,  that 
everybody  likes.  Judging  from  their  conversation,  I 
should  say  that  they  have  had  a  most  delightful  trip  so 
far,  the  only  regret  is,  that  they  were  too  soon  for  Ire- 
land ;  the  flowers  were  not  in  bloom,  it  was  damp  and 
rainy  in  May.  They  were  very  much  impressed  with 
the  highland  scenery  and  Lakes  of  Scotland,  with  some 
portions  of  the  city  of  Edinburgh  they  were  charmed, 
and  the  beautiful  Cathedral  at  Glasgow  seemed  to  have 

made  a  great  impression  upon  Mr.  D 's  mind.     At 

Abbotsford  they  spent  a  delightful  day ;  I  hope  there 
is  one  in  reserve  for  us  on  our  return.  Before  we  sepa- 
rated, it  was  determined  that  we  should  make  the 
effort  to  get  a  room  at  the  hotel  where  they  are.     Paris 

is  full  of  Americans.     Dr.  J and  wife,  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  K ,  Mr.  R ,  and  Mrs.  H of  Harris- 
burg,  and  a  host  of  others  too  numerous  to  name. 

Wednesday,  July  S.     "We  are  moved  again,  (but  not 
to  tears.)     Here  I  am,  in  a  small  room  at  the  head  of 


FROM     ABROAD.  /;.: 

entresol  No.  :'».  perched  up  on  the  top  <>f  ..in-  trunk,  in 
tlir  Hon!  I  teL'athe'nee,  and  here  we  are  t'>  remain  until 
a  room  "ii  the  firsl  floor  is  vacated  for  our  use.  We 
left  our  grand  apartments  at  nine  this  morning,  had 
our  breakfast  served  in  the  ladies' coffee-room ;  and  a 
tempting  repast  it  was,  broiled  beefsteak  garnished 
with  herbs,  a  Luscious  fish  served  on  a  heated  metal 
dish,  with  a  half  lemon  at  one  end,  and  ,-i  sprig  of 
parsley  at  the  other — these  pretty  embellishments  add 
very  much  t<»  the  attractiveness  of  the  table.  If  I  had 
the  leisure  I  would  like  to  describe  this  room,  and  the 
large  dining-saloon  in  which  we  sat  at  table-dTiSte 
yesterday,  for  it  is  the  most  gorgeously  magnificent 
room  for  such  a  purpose  that  I  ever  saw.  It  is  gay  in 
its  elaborate  gildings,  and  so  rich  in  its  brilliant  orna- 
mentation, that  the  eye  is  dazzled  by  its  glitter- 
ing brightness;  the  walls  are  lined  with  mirrors, 
arranged  with  so  much  discriminating  taste,  that  all 
its  beauties  seem  multiplied  a  hundred  fold,  producing 
the  mosl  charming  effects;  while  flowers  in  the  great- 
est profusion  adorned  the  tallies,  and  at  every  available 
point  about  the  room,  where  they  could  be  seen  to 
advantage,  they  were  placed.  The  dinner,  for  which 
we  paid  eight  francs  each,  was  a  fine  affair;  and  occu- 
pied two  hours  in  the  serving  of  eight  courses.  This 
will  do  as  an  experiment;  but  time  is  too  precious,  we 
can't  give  two  hours  each  day  to  a  table-d'hote  dinner. 
I  never  saw  liner  fruit;  the  strawberries  and  cherries 
were  delicious,  and  they  were  a  little  more  generous  in 
the  distribution  of  them  than  in  Dublin,  bu1  they  gave 
us  no  cream  for  the  berries.  After  dinner  mosl  of  the 
guests  adjourned  to  the  parlors,  or  balcony  in  the  open 
court;  some  to  dint  and  smoke  away  an  hour,  until  it 
was  time  to  seek  other  excitement  in  the  street  or 
opera;  the  young  folks  to  flirt  and  charm  each  other. 


S6  HOME     LETTERS. 

by  saying  pretty  nothings,  and  from  that  into  senti- 
mental love  making  ;   the  old  folks,  like  J and 

myself,  sitting  apart,  quietly  taking  our  cotfee  and  talk- 
ing about  home  and  the  dear  children,  wishing  that 
Minnie  and  Annie  could  look  over  this  gay  scene. 
Imagine  yourself  in  this  oblong  square,  a  hundred  feet 
by  seventy-five  ;  the  whole  space  under  a  skylight  cover, 
three  sides  occupied  by  the  business  offices,  express  and 
baggage,  reading  and  billiard  rooms,  and  all  other 
necessary  purposes  for  such  an  immense  establishment. 
The  fourth  side,  facing  the  Boulevard,  having  a 
balcony  or  elevated  platform  above  the  pave  below  ; 
along  this  length  are  placed  little  round  tables,  where 
small  parties  may  sit  and  enjoy  their  coffee  or  creams 
at  leisure,  and  outside  of  this  again,  are  ranged  at 
short  intervals,  large  tropical  plants,  and  the  whole 
scene  is  warmed  up  and  made  brilliantly  gay,  by  the 
flags  above  and  the  bright  toilets  of  the  ladies  below, 
whose  dresses  are  rainbow  hued — so  that  every  con- 
ceivable color  has  its  counterpart  in  this  picture. 

Thursday,  July  4-  It  is  very  difficult,  with  our 
present  surroundings,  to  realize  that  this  is  the  day 
we  celebrate  as  our  national  anniversary  at  home, 
but  to-night  we  may  be  able  to  get  up  a  little  genuine 
enthusiasm,  as  it  is  determined,  and  arrangements  have 
been  made,  for  a  dinner  at  the  "  Grand."  Two  hun- 
dred tickets  have  already  been  sold,  (at  seven  dollars 
in  gold  each,)  and  three  times  that  number  expect  to 
participate.     The  supposition  is  that  General  Dix  will 

preside,  and  J and  Mr.  Dougherty  are  two  of  the 

speakers  designated.     If  I  go  I  shall  wear  my  plain 
black    dress,   my   only   ornament   the   national   colors. 

Mrs.  D comes  in   to  say  that  it  is  probable  the 

dinner  may  have    to   be   abandoned,   as   a    telegram 


FROM     ABROAD. 

has  been  received,  announcing  the  death  of  \faxa- 
milian,  and  the  Emperor  desires  that  there  may  be 
ii"  merry  makings  in  his  eapitol  if  such  an  evenl  is 
true.  The  military  review  in  honor  of  the  Sultan  of 
Turkey  is  postponed*  and  the  courl  go  into  mourning 

for   twenty   days.     Yesterday    Mr.   and    Mrs.    D , 

J and  myself,  were  6u1   most  of  the  day  together, 

and  our  eyes  were  literally  feasted  with  beautiful 
novelties.  Paris  has  wonderful  attractions,  and  I 
already  begin  to  feel  an  enthusiastic  admiration  for  its 
many  charms.  We  hired  a  carriage  at  two  franca  an 
hour,  and  drove  first  to  the  church  of  Saint  Sulpice, 
a  very  old  building,  having  no  very  noticeable  attrac- 
tions; then  dined  at  a  cafe  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
later  in  the  day  we  drove  up  through  the  "Champs 
Elyse'es,"  the  finest  and  most  popular  promenade  in  the 
city  ;  which  is  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  The  lower 
portion,  on  either  side  of  the  street,  is  laid  out  in 
flower  gardens  and  shrubberies,  with  beautiful  foun- 
tain- between,  and  in  the  groves  are  places  of  enter- 
tainment, cafe's,  circus  performances,  roundabout  or 
whirligig  swings,  in  which  yon  can  u-et  a  ride  for  a 
penny.  Punch  and  Judy,  weighing  machines,  and  a 
dozen  other  sources  of  amusement,  that  never  fail 
to  attract  a  crowd  and  please  the  children.  From  the 
Champs  Elyse'es  we  drove  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  ;  this 
is  the  fashionable  park  and  drive,  where  the  wealthy 
citizens  try  to  outshine  each  other  in  the  display  of 
their  costly  equipages.  This  day,  I  suppose,  on  account 
of  the  news  from  Mexico,  there  were  very  few  distin- 
guished persons  to  be  seen;  among  that  number  was  the 
Viceroy  of  Egypt,  who  was  dressed  in  his  national 
costume,  and  sat  in  an  open  phaeton  with  three  other 
gentlemen  ;  as  he  is  the  Emperor's  guest,  the  carriage 
horses  (four  in  number)  must  have  been  appropriated 


Qg  HOME     LETTERS. 

to  his  use  ;  the  out  riders  and  coachman,  looked  very 
gay  in  their  scarlet  and  gold  lace.  Some  of  the  ladies 
in  their  carriages  looked  as  if  they  were  "en-passage" 
to  a  ball  or  party,  their  dresses  being  made  of  the 
lightest  and  most  gauzy  materials  and  in  colors  of  the 
most  delicate  tints — rose-pink,  sky-blue  and  violet ; 
the  trimmings,  gloves  and  bonnets  being  in  corres- 
ponding shades  ;  and  when  they  were  seated,  the  skirt 
of  the  dress  was  spread  out  gracefully  and  to  its 
utmost  limit  to  show  them  off  to  the  greatest  possible 
advantage. 

Mrs.  D puts  a  sudden  check  on  my  writing,  by 

making  the  request  that  I  will  go  out  shopping  with 
her,  as  a  shower  of  rain  is  not  considered  a  sufficient 
reason  for  staying  in  doors,  if  inclination  prompts  one 
to  go  out. 

Friday,  July  5.     The  hour  is  10|  a.   m.     We  have, 
been  fashionable  from  necessity,  and  have  just  disposed 
of  our  morning  meal,  for  we  retired  to  bed  last  night 
at  three  o'clock ;  but  not  to  get  any  refreshing  sleep, 
our  minds  were  in  such  a  feverish  state  of  excitement 
after  the  grand  dinner  in  the  gorgeous  banqueting  hall 
of  the  Grand  Hotel ;  and  it  was  a  very  expensive  and 
sumptuous  affair  I  assure  you.     At  eight  o'clock  the 
guests  assembled  in  the  parlor,  (a  large  and  brilliant 
company   of  ladies  and  gentlemen,)  at  nine  precisely 
they  entered  the  dining  hall,  the  band  playing  "  Hail 
Columbia."     Over  three  hundred  guests,  representing 
most  of  the  States  of   the  Union,  took  seats  at   the 
four    immensely   long   tables,   and   when   seated,   the 
effect   was   indescribably    beautiful.      The  novel   dec- 
orations, the   elegant   and   delicate   viands,   the    mir- 
rors  duplicating   the  charming  scene,  the   music,  the 
flowers,  the  dainty  cut  glass  ornaments,  the  lights,  the 


Fit  0  1/      .1  B  /,'  OA  D.  69 

ladies  in  their  gay  and  exquisite  toilets,  and  above  all 
the  united  American  and  French  flags,  produced  a 
scene  thai  was  transcendently  beautiful.  I  have  it 
photographed  in  my  memory  as  a  charming  picture 
that  will  never  1"-''  it-  ('"luring.  At  the  bead  of  the 
middle  table  presided  the  chairman  of  the  committee, 

Mi'.  M ;  who  was  supported  by   Govenor  Curtin 

and  J ,  but  so  far  from  me  that    I   could  no1   see 

them  without  my  glass.  I  sat  to  the  righl  of  .Mr. 
Doughertv ;  and  other  gentlemen  were  Beated  in 
prominent  positions,  but  I  mention  only  the  names  of 
those  that  you  feel  a  personal  interest  in.  A  Messing 
was  invoked  by  Dr.  Eldridge,  (residenl  clergyman  of 
the  American  Chapel  in  Paris,  who  was  a  classmate  of 
Dr.  Butler's.) 

The  dinner  I  will  not  describe,  but  will  only  say 
that  it  occupied  two  hours  in  the  serving;  thai  we  had 
all  imaginable  (and  some  unimaginable  to  an  American) 
good  things,  beginning  with  unions — and  champagne, 
and  ending  with  "Cafe"  et  Liqueur-.'"  Then  followed 
the  intellectual  pari  of  the  feast.  First  a  short  address 
by  the  "  Chairman  ; "  after  which  the  following  toasts 
were  drank:  "The  Day  we  celebrate;"  then  Music, — 
"The  Star  Spangled  Banner,"  (the  whole  audience 
rising  and  making  the  salon  ring  with  their  cheers  and 
applause, i  the  hand  winding  up  with  Yankee  hoodie.*' 
The  next  toasl  was,  "The  President  of  the  United 
States."  Music—  "The  Rod  Whiteand  Blue,"  then  nine 
hearty  cheers  were  given  for  the  old  flag.  The  third 
toast,  "  His  Imperial  Majesty,  Napoleon  III.'"  Music, 
— "Josephine's  Ifynin."  After  this,  the  following 
was  proposed  and  drank,  standing,  and  in  profound 
silence,   "The  memory   of  George    \\ '.  ton    and 

Abraham  Lincoln." 

The  chairman  then  proposed  the  health  of  S.  B.  K    _- 


70  HOME     LETTERS. 

gles,  U.  S.  Commissioner  to  the  congress  of  ]STations, 
now  in  session  in  Paris,  but  this  gentleman  responded 
in  so  low  a  tone  we  did  not  hear  a  word.  After  him 
came  our  distinguished  townsman,  Daniel  Dougherty, 
"  The  eloquent  orator  and  advocate  of  the  Philadelphia 
Bar."  "  Dock  "  was  tremulous  and  decidedly  nervous 
saying  two  or  three  times  before  his  name  was  an- 
nounced, "  Oh !  goodness,  I  wish  it  was  over,  sup- 
pose I   fail,  what   shall   I   do?    say,  Mrs.   A do 

you  believe  I  shall  get  through?  I  replied,  of  course 
you  will  get  through,  and  creditably  too ;  why  }rou 
never  broke  down  in  your  life  but  once.  The  result 
proved  my  judgment  to  be  correct,  his  speech  was 
capital,  it  was  witty  and  eloquent  in  word  and  thought. 
He  commenced  with  some  humorous  remarks,  describ- 
ing his  unsuccessful  attempts  to  learn  French  under 
difficulties,  and  his  experience  in  buying  a  hat ;  this 
kept  the  table  in  a  roar  of  laughter,  and  then  he  turned 
our  thoughts  "  to  where  our  hearts  now  are,  and  will 
forever  be,  the  dear  land  we  call  our  country  and  our 
home."  Amid  a  shower  of  applause  he  sat  down,  his 
full  heart  overflowing  in  tears,  to  receive  the  warm 
congratulations  of  his  friends;  and  we  all  felt  proud  of 
him,  for  it  was  one  of  his  happiest  efforts,  and  he  never 
acquitted  himself  more  creditably  or  more  to  the  entire 
satisfaction  of  those  who  value  his  friendship.  As  the 
representative  of  the  Press,  Colonel  Forney  followed ; 
with  a  speech  of  great  eloquence  and  power,  which  was 
very  much  applauded.  After  him  J was  intro- 
duced, by  the  chairman  proposing  the  following  toast, 
"  The  health  of  Judge  Joseph  Allison,  of  Philadelphia." 
This  was  followed  by  a  flattering  commendation  that 
would  have  elated  the  vanity  of  a  less  modest  man  ; 
but  his  quietly  composed  manner  betrayed  no  such 
weakness.     The  address  I  could  not  hear,  but  if  ap- 


FROM     ABROAD.  ,/ 

plause  was  any  indication  of  its  merit,  i1  was  honored 
enthusiastically,  and  several  gentlemen,  with  whom 
I  was  not  personally  acquainted,  came  up  and  offered 
their  congratulations.  Governor  Curtin  was  repeatedly 
called,  bu1  for  some  unexplained  reason  did  tiol  respond 
until  a  very  late  hour,  the  other  speakers  you  would 
not  take  any  special  personal  interest  in.  The  com- 
pany did  not  disperse  until  a  very  late  hour  ;  and  then 
passed  out  of  the  hall  singing  "John  Brown."  It  was 
a  thoroughly  American  celebration,  and  passed  off  to 
the  entire  satisfaction  of  all  the  participants. 

Three  p.  m.  We  have  been  making  Mary  Forney  a 
visit,  and  she  has  invited  us  to  ride  at  five  in  the 
'•Boisde  Boulogne."  The  Colonel  has  apartments  up 
at  the  head  of  "Champs  Elyse'es,"  a  very  pleasant 
location,  for  which  he  must  pay  well;  his  carriage, 
horses  and  driver  cost  him  alone  sixty  dollars  a  week. 
This  arrangement  of  living  in  apartments,  as  almost 
all  persons  do  in  Paris,  impresses  us  as  being  very 
strung'',  unlike  any  condition  of  society  that  we  have 
in  America.  A  bouse  for  one  family  is  a  novelty, 
confined  to  the  wealthy  alone,  and  is  called  "a  hotel." 
The  very  best  society  live  in  apartments,  on  one  floor, 
including  parlor  bed-rooms,  dining-rooms  and  kitchen; 
and  of  these  floors  there  are  never  less  than  three,  and 
more  frequently  five,  not  counting  the  ground  floor. 
or  first  story — where  the  "Concierge"  with  his  family 
live,  to  watch  and  keep  the  place  in  order,  collect  the 
rents,  admit   visitors,  and  if  desired   by   the  tenants 

above,  to  supply  meals.     M.  F told  us  that  they 

had  their  breakfast  sent  in;  but  their  preference  was 
to  go  to  a  regular  cafe*  for  dinner.  This  has  been  our 
habit  so  far;  we  pay  nine  francs  a  day  for  our  room, 
breakfast  in  the  hotel,  and  dine  wherever  it  may 
be  most  convenient.     These  cafes  abound  everywhere, 


72  HOME     LETTERS. 

at  the  corners  of  most  of  the  principal  streets,  and 
at  intermediate  points  in  the  square.  Their  number 
is  countless,  and  they  vary  very  much  in  their 
style  and  expensiveness,  according  to  the  locality, 
but  those  on  the  principal  boulevards  are  most  fre- 
quented. The  best  are  easily  distinguished  by  the 
class  and  number  of  their  guests ;  and  some  are  noted 
for  certain  specialities  that  attract  custom,  but  we 
have  had  only  three  days'  experience,  and  have  not 
yet  determined  to  which  one  we  may  give  the  prefer- 
ence. Yet  these  three  dinners  were  not  secured  with- 
out trouble.     Just  imagine  our  party,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

D ,  J ,  and  myself;  not  one  of  the  number  can 

speak  French  fluently,  some  not  at  all.     Mrs.  D is 

the  most  expert.  We  pass  into  a  large  room  half  filled 
with  people,  take  our  seats  at  a  little  round  table,  one 
of  the  attendants  is  waiting  to  receive  our  order.  Who 
shall  give  it?  We  look  at  each  other,  pass  the  "  menu" 
(bill  of  fare)  from  one  to  the  other.  What  do  we 
know  about  "  potage  a  la  Julienne,"  "  Saumon  a  la 
Hollandaise,"  or  "poulet  au  cresson?"  Oh!  here  is 
something  that  looks  like  beef — "  filet  de  bceuf."  Let 
us  have  that,  some  one  proposes.  Mrs.  D is  author- 
ized to  speak  for  the  company ;  she  can  manage  the 
soup,  the  beef,  the  potatoes,  and  the  "  vin  ordinaire," 
that  will  do  ;  she  gives  the  order  to  the  "gargon"  in 
French  ;  he  looks  at  the  lady  and  his  conclusion  is  that 
she  was  born  on  the  other  side  of  the  channel. 

Saturday,  July  6.  We  took  an  early  cup  of  coffee 
this  morning,  and  were  oft'  to  the  "  Exposition"  by 
eight  o'clock.  We  have  had  a  most  delightful  day  but 
a  fatiguing  one,  and  if  my  feelings  alone  were  to  be  con- 
sulted I  should  be  in  my  bed,  but  I  must  tell  you  all 
I  can  about  this  world  within  a  world.     It  is  a  won- 


/■■/.'  0  M     A  B  B  0^1  7). 

derful  affair,  that  would  require  a  month's  study  to 
master.  The  Palace  occupies  the  centre  of  ;i  Bandy 
plain  called  the  "Champ  de  Mar-,"  the  ordinary  re- 
view ground  of  the  army  of  Paris,  and  I  can  give  you 
no  better  or  more  concise  description  than  this:  "The 
plan  of  the  building  is  an  irregular  oval,  laid  out  in 
concentric  galleries  around  a  garden  in  the  centre.  Lst. 
The  innermost  ring  is  devoted  to  Art.  2d.  To  mate- 
rials and  applications  of  the  liberal  arts,  including 
printing,  books,  etc.  3d.  Furniture  and  other  objects 
provided  for  man's  habitations.  4th.  Clothes  and 
objects  worn  aboul  the  person,  including  robes  and 
vestments,  arm-  and  armor.  5th.  Raw  products  of 
extractive  industry,  rocks,  mineral.-,  metal-.  6th.  Ma- 
chinery and  processes  of  the  industrial  arts  and  manu- 
factures. This  is  rendered  accessible  by  a  raised  walk, 
from  which  you  look  down  upon  the  objects  without 
coming  in  contact  with  them.  7th.  Articles  of  food. 
raw  and  prepared.  The  restaurants  are  American, 
French,  English,  Spanish,  Italian,  and  German,  and 
display  the  cookery  of  each  nation.  This  outer  belt, 
forms  a  lofty  arcade  or  boulevard,  which  is  resorted  to 
as  a  promenade,  brilliant  with  cafes,  shops  and  moving 
crowds.  A  double  arrangement  pervades  the  building; 
beside  the  classification  of  objects  of  the  same  kind  in 
concentric  zones,  the  whole  is  divided  according  to 
countries.  This  i-  effected  by  allotting  to  each  country 
wedge-shaped  compartments,  radiating  from  the  centre 
to  the  outside,  and  crossing  all  the  zones  in  succession. 
The  whole  may  he  compared  to  a  greal  cake,  of  which 
France  has  taken  a  great  many  slices.  England  a  smaller 
numlier, and  the  United  States,  Turkey,  and  Russia  very 
small  slices." 

The  Park  and  Garden  are  beautifully  laid  out  :  hut 
their  chief  attraction  consists  in  the  number  i't  strange 

G 


7A  HOME     LETTERS. 


buildings  scattered  among  the  groves  and  parterres.  A 
Chinese  pagoda,  an  English  cottage,  a  Turkish  mosque, 
a  Swiss  ch  filet,  Hindoo  temple,  Russian  kremlin,  a 
Pompeian  house  and  Grecian  temple,  all  beautiful  to 
the  eye  and  rich  in  colors  and  other  decorations, 
though  in  fact  only  built  of  lath  and  plaster,  and  on 
the  left  of  the  main  avenue,  leading  to  the  palace,  is 
the  Pavilion  of  the  Emperor.  In  more  remote  parts, 
manufactories  in  full  operation,  factories,  forges,  foun- 
dries and  glass  works  are  found,  and  there  the  visitor 
may  see  how  metals  are  melted,  how  glass  is  blown, 
how  bronzes  are  cast,  how  enamels  are  made,  how 
starch,  glue  and  other  needful  articles  are  produced, 
and  there,  in  fact,  almost  every  trade  may  be  seen. 
Small  pavilions  for  the  sale  of  various  objects,  a 
theatre  and  concert  hall,  are  also  located  in  the  garden, 
and  the  whole  of  the  interior,  and  certain  parts  of  the 
exterior,  are  illuminated  and  open  to  the  public  until 
midnight.  From  this  general  outline,  you  will  be 
able  to  form  some  idea  of  the  almost  unlimited  extent 
of  the  arrangements,  and  of  its  immensity  and  com- 
pleteness of  detail.  It  is  wonderful,  most  wonderful; 
nothing  has  been  left  undone  to  make  it  worthy  of 
the  pride  of  the  French  people  and  the  patronage  of 
all  nations,  and  it  ought  to  be  retained,  as  a  permanent 
illustration  of  the  shrewdness  and  tact  of  the  Emperor, 
in  devising  such  an  exposition  to  attract  strangers  to 
his  capital,  and  put  money  into  the  pockets  of  his  peo- 
ple. Mr.  Dougherty,  thought  himself  very  fortunate 
yesterday  afternoon ;  as  he  was  taking  a  stroll  by  him- 
self along  the  Palais  Royal,  the  young  Prince  Imperial 
passed  directly  in  front  of  him,  crossing  the  pave  to 
enter  his  carriage.  His  attention  was  first  arrested,  by 
observing  that  all  the  old  and  young  men,  on  the 
street,  raised  their  "  chapeaus"  and  remained  uncov- 


FR  0  M     A  1 1  11  OAD.  ;.■; 

ered  until  he  was  seated,  this  civility  he  acknowledged, 
and  in  the  mosl  gracious  manner  returned  their  saluta- 
tions, which  was  enough  to  win  the  heaii  of  "  Dock  ;" 
he  exclaimed,  "  I  tell  you,  /<<  is  a  dear  little  fellow." 

Sunday,  July  7, 12  o'clock.    J lias  gone  to  church 

to  the  American  Chapel,  but  I  am  very  weary  and 

remain  at  home.     Mr.  and  .Mrs.  D have  ffone  to 

"Saint  Roch,"  where  the  music  is  said  to  be  very 
tine.  I  did  not  mention  that  on  Friday,  just  as  we 
were  starting  out  for  a  drive,  our  letters,  the  first  from 
home  sincr  we  left,  came  through  Mr.  Moran,  dis- 
patched from  London  at  our  request.  Can  von  imagine 
our  joy  in  receiving  them? 

Jlmi'/it)/,  .In!;/  8.  A  delightful  morning,  clear  and 
pleasant  for  sight  seeing,  what  disposition  we  shall 
make  of  our  time  has  not  yet  been  decided  ;  we  wait 
for  the  "illustrious  Daniel"  to  come  forth  and  make 
his  suggestions,  but  it  is  only  nine,  he  cannot  be  ex- 
pected so  early.  "We  have  breakfasted  on  beefsteak, 
rolls  and  coffee,  at  a  charge  of  five  francs.  Last  even- 
ing  J and    myself    walked    up   to   the    Champs 

Elysees  to  see  what  Paris  looked  like  on  a  Sabbath 
day.  yet  if  the  tact  as  to  what  day  it  was  had  not  beeu 
fixed  on  our  own  minds,  we  should  have  said  it  was  a 
grand  gala  day,  a  public  celebration  gotten  up  with 
some  special  object  in  view.  Thousands  and  thousands 
of  gaily  dressed  people,  dressed  as  only  Parisians  can 
dress,  walking  along  the  Boulevards ;  carriages,  cabs, 
omnibuses,  and  all  other  kinds  of  vehicles  filled  the 
streets — they  seemed  to  be  miles  in  extent,  but  there 
was  no  disorder,  no  confusion,  among  this  movii  _ 
mass;  two  lines  of  carriage-  passing  in  one  direction 
and   two  in  the  opposite.     An  outcry  among  the  peo- 


76  HOME     LETTERS. 

pie  attracted  our  attention  to  an  open  barouche,  in 
which  was  seated  the  Prince  Napoleon ;  a  lady  in 
mourning  at  his  right,  and  a  gentleman  on  the  front 
seat.  We  had  a  near  view  of  them,  the  carriage  pas- 
sing directly  in  front  of  us,  as  we  were  seated  on  the 
side  walk,  which  w7ill  impress  you  strangely,  I  know, 
unless  I  explain.  Intermediate  between  these  beautiful 
gardens,  on  the  Champs  Elysees  and  the  street,  there  is 
a  space  perhaps  seventy-five  feet  wide,  an  asphaltic  walk 
or  promenade,  in  extent  a  mile  and  a  half  I  should 
think,  and  chairs  are  placed  along  this  entire  length, 
four  centimes  is  charged  to  the  occupant  of  a  chair,  and 
you  may  sit  ten  minutes  or  an  hour,  as  you  please. 
Women  (I  do  not  know  by  what  name  they  are  desig- 
nated) pass  and  repass  collecting  the  coppers,  they 
give  you  a  check  to  prove  your  right  to  occupy  a 
"fauteuil."  Even  this  small  amount  exacted  from 
each  one  must  in  the  aggregate  amount  to  a  very  large 
sum,  for  there  were  hundreds  and  hundreds  of  them 
placed  at  every  available  point  for  sight  seeing,  and  we 
were  told  that  persons  having  the  privilege  granted 
them  by  government  to  place  chairs  in  any  of  the 
public  streets  or  gardens,  had  to  pay  a  certain  and 
large  percentage  from  their  income.  The  government 
is  exacting,  ivill  have  a  portion  of  all  that  the  people 
earn,  and  in  return  they  get  what  ? 

Tuesday,  July  9.     We   have  just   disposed   of  our 
breakfast.     Our  party  is  divided  to-day,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

D have  other  engagements,  J and  myself  go 

out  on  a  shopping  expedition. 

Wednesday,  July  10,  half-past  nine  o'clock,  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  D knocked  at  our  door  to  say,  "  we  are  ready 

for  breakfast,"  but  we  are  through.     I  must  tell  you  of 


F  R  0  U     A  S  U  0  AD. 

our  delightful  surprise  lasl  evening,  when  we  came 
home,  Btopping  in  the  office  for  our  key,  the  <  Joncierge'e 
wife  handed  us  qo  Less  than  three  Letters.  Was  uot 
thai  a  delicious  treal  after  all  the  fatigues  of  the  day  ? 

• 

One  missive  from  Minnie,  and  a  joint  letter  from  sister 
Jennie  and  brother  Messick  and  Annie;  why  it  was 
the  next  thing*  to  being  at  home.     I  had  commenced 

reading  Minnie's  aloud  to  J ,  when  Mi-,  and  Mrs. 

D came  in  ;  they  expressed  a   wish   to   hear   the 

news.  1  read  on,  and  when  I  came  to  the  personal 
messages  for  them,  "Dock"  bounced  out  of  his  chair, 
tossed  three  kisses  from  his  lips  in  the  direction  of 
W.  P.,  exclaiming,  "  There,  Ceilie,  that's  for  Minnie, 
bless  her  dear  heart,  she  never  forgets  her  friends." 
Now  telling  this  reminds  me,  what  at  the  time,  I  for- 
got to  mention,  that  at  the  "  Grand  Dinner/3  we  drank 
the  health  of  two  young  ladies,  '-.Minnie  Allison  and 
Annie  Messick."  In  overlooking  my  journal  letter,  I 
find  that  I  am  two  days  behind  in  writing  up  details. 
On  Monday  we  visited  the  "Church  des  Invalids." 
which  contains  the  beautiful  tomb  of  Xapoleon  I.  The 
interior  of  this  church  is  circular,  with  branches  in  the 
form  of  a  Greek  cross,  above  which  rises  the  dome, 
adorned  with  twelve  medallions,  containing  bas-relief 
portraits  of  the  most  warlike  among  the  French  kings 
In  a  crypt  under  the  dome  is  the  tomb  of  Napoleon, 
and  two  sarcophagi  stand  beside  the  entrance:  one 
dedicated  to  Marshal  Bertram!,  the  Emperor'-  -launch 
friend  in  the  days  of  his  adversity,  and  his  companion 
at  St.  Helena  :  the  other  to  Marshal  Duroc.  Above  the 
door  on  a  black  marble  slab  are  these  words,  from  the 
Emperor's  will,  "I  desire  that  my  ashes  may  rest  on 
the  banks  of  the  Seine,  in  the  midsl  of  the  French 
people,  whom  I  have  ever  loved."  A  dark  gallery, 
dimly   lighted    by   funeral    lamps,  leads   to  the  crypt. 


78  HOME     LETTERS. 

and  the  walls  of  the  gallery  are  adorned  by  bas-reliefs, 
illustrating  grand  works  brought  about  by  the  Em- 
peror. The  pavement  of  the  crypt  is  decorated  with  a 
crown  of  laurels  in  mosaic,  and  a  black  circle  contain- 
ing the  names  of  celebrated  battles,  and  against  the 
pilasters  are  twelve  magnificent  statues  of  victories, 
and  between  these  again  are  six  trophies  of  fifty-four 
banners  taken  at  Austerlitz.  "  The  sarcophagus  con- 
sists of  an  immense  monolith  of  porphyry  from  Finland, 
presented  by  the  Emperor  Nicholas  of  Russia,  weigh- 
ing one  hundred  and  thirty-five  thousand  pounds,  and 
brought  at  a  cost  of  one  hundred  and  forty  thousand 
francs."  At  the  other  end  of  the  gallery,  and  oppo- 
site the  door  that  leads  into  the  crypt,  there  is  a  dark 
recess  of  black  marble,  enclosed  with  gilt  railings 
and  illuminated  by  a  lamp.  Here  stands  a  white 
marble  statue  of  the  Emperor,  in  his  imperial  robes; 
here  also  is  preserved  "the  sword  he  wore  at  Aus- 
terlitz, the  orders  of  knighthood  he  usually  wore, 
and  the  golden  crown  voted  to  him  by  the  town 
of  Cherbourg."  This  shrine  is  closed  to  the  peo- 
ple, and  the  whole  is  only  visible  from  above,  and 
there,  standing  in  silent  and  reverential  attitudes, 
they  gaze  down  upon  the  magnificent  memorial.  The 
marble  of  this  monument  and  the  entire  expense 
amounted  to  $2,000,000.  There  are  a  number  of 
chapels  in  the  church ;  in  one  stands  the  tomb  of 
Joseph,  the  eldest  brother  of  Napoleon,  a  sarcophagus 
of  black  marble  with  white  veins,  in  another  is  a 
monument  to  Vauban,  and  in  a  third  is  the  tomb  of 
King  Jerome,  a  black  marble  sarcophagus  resting  on 
clawed  feet  of  gilt  bronze  ;  and  an  altar,  behind  which 
is  seen  a  small  sarcophagus,  containing  the  heart  of  the 
Queen  of  Westphalia.  The  high  altar,  is  ascended  by 
ten  steps  of  pure  white  marble;  the  altar  table  is  of 
black  marble,  surmounted  by  four  spiral  columns  (ex- 


FR  0  M     A  B  U  <)  AD. 

quisitely  beautiful  with  the  reflected  Bunlighl  upon 
them)  of  the  same  material,  black  and  white,  support- 
ing ;i  canopy,  all  profusely  gilt. 

This  church  is  open  to  the  people  two  mornings  of 
each  week;  yet  on  this  morning,  the  crowd  was  bo 
greal  von  would  have  supposed  they  had  access  to  it 
for  the  first  time.  The  larger  proportion  were  French, 
rich  and  poor,  city  people  and  country  folk,  passing 
side  liy  side,  with  a  solemnity  of  manner  thai  impressed 
one  with  the  idea  that  they  felt  they  were  approaching 
a  shrine  at  which  to  otter  reverential  prayer.  Con- 
nected with  this  church  is  the  "Hotel  dea  [nvalides,"a 
military  asylum.  "Some  three  thousand  men  and  a 
hundred  and  sixty  officers  are  constantly  boarded, 
lodged  and  clothed  in  this  establishmenl  ;  thirty  year-" 
service,  or  severe  wounds,  being  requisite  in  order  to  be 
entitled  to  admission."  Three  gateways  in  the  prin- 
cipal front  lead  into  the  "Court  of  Honor,"  where  one 
of  the  Invalides  otters  himself  as  a  guide  to  strangers, 
for  which  he  expects  a  fee.  The  old  gentleman  that 
escorted  us  through  the  buildings  was  profusely  deco- 
rated with  honorable  badges,  we  compensated  him  for 
his  trouble,  hade  him  "  bon  jour  "and  passed  out.  We 
all  felt  very  tired  and  the  need  of  some  refreshment. 
The  gentlemen  proposed  to  get  a  carriage  and  started  off 
to  secure  one ;  but  all  within  reasonable  distance  were 
engaged,  and  not  one  for  love  or  money  could  be  had. 
We  were  at  a  loss  to  know  what  should  he  done,  and 
in  desperation  we  bought  from  a  fruit  vender  nearly  all 
his  stock  in  trade,  peaches,  plums  and  apricots;  and 
then  what  d<>  you  suppose  we  did'.'  Why  we  seated 
ourselves  in  frontof  a  cafe*  and  there  devoured  our  fruit 
in  the  public  street.  Just  imagine  our  doing  such  a 
thing  in  Philadelphia.  "Dock*"  said.  "  I  think  I  - 
Judge   Allison   sitting   in  front   of    the   Continental, 


80  HOME     LETTERS. 

sipping  a  mint  julep"  Even  here,  where  every  body 
conforms  to  the  custom,  it  seems  strange  to  us,  very 
strange,  indeed,  and  not  in  accordance  with  our  ideas 
of  propriety ;  but  Paris,  and  Paris  life,  are  as  unlike 
American  life  and  habits  as  it  is  possible  to  be,  and 
indeed  I  do  not  think  it  has  its  parallel  on  the  civilized 
globe.  After  our  fruit  lunch  we  felt  refreshed,  and  an 
omnibus  passing  at  the  moment,  (that  we  supposed  was 
going  in  the  direction  that  we  wished  to  follow,)  we 
hailed  the  driver,  all  got  in,  paid,  in  our  ignorance, 
double  fare,  and  he  carried  us  down  to  Place  de  la 
Bastille  (old  site)  three  miles  north  of  the  locality  we 
wished  to  reach  :  so  much  for  that  day's  experience.  But 
we  had  yet  to  witness  a  grand  military  review,  arranged 
in  honor  of  the  Sultan  of  Turkey,  and  up  at  the  head  of 
the  Champs  Elyse'es,  we  made  our  way  through  a  dense 
mass  of  human  beings  of  all  ages  and  descriptions.  The 
streets  were  filled  and  crowded,  every  available  point 
where  the  procession  was  expected  to  pass,  was  occupied 
hours  in  advance  of  the  time  fixed,  this  made  it  a 
tedious  and  tiresome  process,  and  two  or  three  times 
we  were  just  on  the  point  of  abandoning  the  efibrt  in 
despair,  when  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to  find  ourselves 
opposite  to  the  Palace  of  Industry,  in  front  of  which 
the  Emperor  and  Sultan  were  to  take  their  position, 
and  where  the  troops  were  all  to  pass  in  review  before 

them.  We  paid  two  francs  (Mrs.  D and  I)  for  the 

privilege  of  standing  for  two  hours  on  a  rickety  old 
platform,  tacked  up  for  the  occasion  by  a  dark-skinned 
frisky  little  Frenchman,  who  sold  beer  and  cakes  under 
a  small  booth  at  our  backs.  Punctually  at  the  hour 
fixed,  the  Emperor,  attended  by  his  cent  gardes  and  the 
Sultan,  made  their  appearance,  and  our  glasses  gave  us 
a  clear  and  direct  view  of  them  both.  The  Emperor  I 
recognised  immediately  from  the  photographs  I  have 


FBOM     ABROAD.  81 

n  of  him;  his  complexion  is  dark,  his  aose  \>vy 
prominent,  but  his  figure  is  qoI  bo  tall,  and  very  much 
stouter  than  we  imagined.  Eis  military  coal  and 
pant-  w  civ  of  a  dark  blue  color  with  scarlel  trimmings; 
a  wide  green  sash  covered  with  decorations,  brought 
over  the  shoulder,  passed  around  the  body;  his  large 
black  chapeau  lie  raised  gracefully,  in  acknowledg- 
ment <>l'  the  military  salute  given  by  the  officers  of 
each  regiment,  as  they  passed  immediately  in  front  of 
him,  hut  to  the  rank  ami  tile  (his  stay  ami  defence)  he 
gave  only  a  wave  of  tin'  hand.  The  Sultan  is  a  tine 
looking  person,  of  short  stature,  portly  presence^  full 
black  beard,  and  was  dressed  in  a  hlue  coat  richly 
embroidered  with  gold. 

The  Emperor's  body-guard  are  the  finest  lookingmen 
physically  that  \  over  saw;  none  were  less  than  six  feet 
high;  and  their  tall  caps,  with  full  fountain  plumes, 
seemed  to  increase  their  stature  until  they  looked  like 
giants  on  horseback.  Their  dress  was  blue,  with 
gold  trimmings — so  gay.  that  with  the  sunlight  upon 
them  it  was  dazzling  to  the  sight.  I  cannot  pretend 
to  give  you  a  description  of  the  different  regiments, 
for  their  number  and  names  were  legion:  or  of  the 
assembled  thousands  all  dressed  in  their  holiday 
clothes,  with  the  blended  fashions  peculiar  to  all 
nations,  Oriental,  European  and  American.  The  mar- 
tial music,  the  shouts  of  the  people,  "Vive  FEm- 
percur  !"  the  lings  of  all  nations  waving  tV<>m  every 
housetop — all  this  combined  to  make  up  such  a  scene 
of  gorgeous,  glittering  beautyas  our  eye-  never  beheld. 

On  Wednesday,  J and  I  went   to  see  CTotre  Dame, 

which  is  located  on  tin1  Isle  de  la  cite,  just  where  the 
river  breaks  into  two  streams,  which  unite  again  at 
the  western  end  of  the  Pon1  Xeiit".  and  from  there  we 
went    to  the  Louvre,  where  we  spent  most  o\'  the  day, 


82  HOME     LETTERS. 

and  in  the  evening  came  away  eye  weary  and  foot  sore, 
feeling  that  we  had  had  only  a  glimpse  of  this  enor- 
mous collection  of  works  of  art.  The  galleries  are 
filled  with  the  choicest  pictures,  statues  and  bronzes, 
enamels,  jewelry,  vases  of  agate,  rock  crystal,  mosaics 
from  Pompeii  and  frescoes,  Greek,  Roman  and  Egyp- 
tian antiquities,  and  almost  everything  that  you  can 
imagine  beside,  may  be  found  in  this  unrivalled  col- 
lection. To  give  you  only  a  faint  idea  of  the  time  it 
would  occupy  to  see,  not  to  study  or  enjoy  the  paint- 
ings, let  me  say,  that  the  galleries  contain  five  hun- 
dred and  sixty  pictures  of  the  Italian  school,  twenty 
Spanish,  six  hundred  and  twenty  German  and  Flemish, 
and  six  hundred  and  sixty  French.  The  apartment 
called  "Salle  de  l'Empereur "  is  entirely  occupied 
by  relics  of  Napole'on  I. — his  camp  bed,  his  famous 
gray  coat  and  cocked  hat,  the  uniform  worn  at 
Marengo,  the  full-dress  clothes  that  he  wore  on  State 
occasions,  and  the  flag  that  he  kissed  when  saying 
adieu  to  his  troops  at  Fontainebleau  ;  this  room  has 
the  greatest  attraction  for  the  young  French  soldiers. 
We  were  very  much  interested  in  watching  persons 
engaged  in  making  copies  of  celebrated  pictures  and 
drawings  ;  some  were  women,  many  of  them  young 
girls  ;  others,  men,  boys,  or  lads  of  sixteen  or  twenty, 
and  a  few  quite  old  men,  but  what  impressed  us  more 
particularly  was  the  indifference  they  manifested  about 
the  observation  they  attracted,  and  how  little  they 
seemed  to  be  disturbed  in  their  occupations  by  persons 
that  crowded  about  their  easels.  M.  C.  A. 


5f 

~^ 

_________ 

FROM     ABROAD. 


Mailed  at  Pa 

July  :■:.  1867. 

Paris,  Saturday,  July  IS, 9  o'clock.    We  have  break- 
fasted and  new  wait  the  convenience  of  Mrs.  D 


to  go  onl  on  a  shopping  expedition.  <>n  Thursday  we 
were  occupied  in  the  same  way,  and  did  not  return  to 

our  rooms  until  ten   in   the   evening,  taxing   J V 

patience  to  flic  utmost  in  waiting  our  pleasure.  The 
embarrassments  in  the  way  of  making  purchases  are 
verv  great,  for  the  language  and  the  money  are  both 
difficulties,  as  we  understand  neither  well  enough  to 
buy  with  expedition;  the  francs  and  the  centimes  are 
a  continual  botheration.  If  they  would  only  Bay  bo 
much  in  dollars  and  cents,  one  could  get  along  well 
enough;  however,  even  with  these  vexations,  we  have 
managed    to   purchase  a  considerable  amount,  and  to 

get    rid   of  some  ready  cash.     Mrs.  D has  bought 

a  quantity  of  underclothing  for  her  children,  in  such 
articles  you  can  save,  and  it  is  an  advantage  to  buy 
here;  as  Labor  is  cheaper  than  with  us,  you  can 
purchase  the  garments  made  up,  for  about  what  you 
would  pay  for  the  material  in  Philadelphia,  but  in 
silks  and  all  dress  goods,  I  do  not  think  there  is 
enough  difference  to  make  it  an  inducemenl  to  hue 
much.  You  will  be  surprised  to  hear  me  say.  that  in 
passing  along  the  street-,  I  observe  very  little  differ- 
ence in  tli«'  styles  of  dresses  here  and  a1  borne;  the 
same  fashions  prevail,  only  a  little  more  exaggerated. 
The  greatesl  peculiarities  are  noticeable  among  the 
common  people,  the  laboring  classes  ;  the  men  all  wear 
blue   blouses,  the   grisettes   and   bonnes    wear  jaunty 


84-  HOME     LETTERS. 

little  caps,  very  sweet  and  pretty  some  of  them  look 
under  the  plaited  borders,  they  vary  in  shape,  size  and 
trimming,  according  to  the  fashion  of  the  province 
from  which  they  come.     Did  I  mention  that  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  D ,  with  J ,  called  upon  General  Dix  and 

family  ?  they  expressed  themselves  pleased  with  their 
visit,  but  I  preferred  to  send  my  carte  de  visite. 

Thursday,  July  11,  will  be  among  the  very  brightest 
days  to  be  remembered  in  after  years,  the  day  we 
spent  at  Fontainebleau — a  place,  whose  interior  ar- 
rangements and  decorations  surpass  anything  in  mag- 
nificence and  splendor,  that  your  imagination  could 
conceive.  The  walls  are  hung  with  tapestry  in  the 
gayest  colors  and  designs  ;  you  cannot  imagine  how 
gorgeously  bright  the  effect  is,  neither  do  I  think  that 
I  can  give  you  in  words,  any  idea  of  the  grandeur  and 
exceeding  richness  of  the  furniture  and  decorations, 
throughout  the  long  suite  of  rooms  through  which  we 

passed,   and    Mr.    D says   they   saw   nothing    in 

England  that  could  compare  with  it.  It  was  under 
Louis  Philippe,  that  the  palace  assumed  the  degree  of 
splendor  that  it  now  can  boast.  The  vast  court  in 
front  of  the  Chateau  is  named  the  "  Cour  des  Adieux," 
because  Napoleon  I.,  there  bade  adieu  to  his  soldiers  on 
his  departure  for  the  Isle  of  Elba,  but  it  was  originally 
used  for  tournaments.  This  court  leads  to  the  interior 
of  the  palace,  into  a  vestibule  with  six  doors,  beauti- 
fully carved,  which  open  into  a  chapel,  in  which  the 
present  Emperor  was  christened.  A  suit  of  rooms 
formerly  occupied  by  Napoleon  I.,  are  now  the  private 
apartments  of  the  Emperor,  and  still  contain  many 
pieces  of  furniture  used  by  the  uncle ;  we  saw  the 
table  on  which  he  signed  his  abdication,  hacked  and 
cut  by  relic  hunters.     Our  attention  was  called  to  the 


/•  jS  0  -'/     4  B  R  OA  l>. 

lustre  of  a  globe  of  rock  crystal  suspended  from  the 
ceiling,  valued  at  twenty^fiye  thousand  dollars.  We 
passed  through  the  moms  once  used  by  Marie  Antoin- 
ette, and  observed  the  window  fastenings  whirl,  were 
made  by  ber  busband,  Louis  the  Sixteenth,  who  was 
much  more  clever  as  a  smith  than  as  a  king;  ber 
cipher  we  saw  in  the  centre  of  the  floor,  and  to  ber, 
also,  the  curtains  and  furniture  belonged.  These  rooms 
are  now  used  by  the  Empress;  they  communicate  with 
others  used  by  her  maids  of  honor,  and  they  contain 
all  manner  of  elegant  and  dainty  little  things.  The 
walls  are  hung  with  tapestry,  a  white  satin  ground, 
and  the  subjects  of  the  designs  are  taken  from  Don 
Quixote.  You  can  form  no  idea  of  the  effed  of  a 
room  so  draped;  it  is  charming;  the  color  of  the 
drapery  is  determined  by  the  color  of  the  carpel  and 
the  furniture  coverings,  no  discordant  shades  are 
placed  in  contrast  to  shock  the  eye;  this  is  th  very 
j„  rfection  of  taste. 

The  library  I  would  like  to  have  transferred  to 
"  Presbyterian  Hill ; "  it  was  so  charming  and  unique, 
with  its  given  drapery  and  oak  carvings,  I  could  net 
resist  coveting  it.  Book-cases  ranged  along  the  entire 
length  of  the  room,  tilled  with  the  mot  valuable 
works  in  every  department  of  literature  and  science; 
and  down  the  centre  of  the  hall,  large  glass  cases  con- 
taining folios  of  pictures  and  rare  engravings,  all 
locked,  into  which  we  could  not  even  get  a  peep. 
Luxurious  lounges, that  would  tempt  one  to  doxr  away 
an  hour,  even  in  such  an  atmosphere  and  with  such 
surroundings,  were  placed  at  convenient  points  about 
the  room.  The  hall-room  had  a  floor  of  inlaid  wood, 
which  had  the  polish  of  steel;  it  was  difficult  to  walk 
over  it,  feeling  that  your  footing  was  very  insecure, 
and  how  it  could  he  danced   upon  was  a  mystery  only 


86  HOME     LETTERS. 

known  to  the  initiated.  It  was  beautiful  to  the  eye 
like  polished  mosaic,  the  sections  being  placed  so  as  to 
form  the  most  curious  and  intricate  designs.  We 
were  very  much  interested  in  examining  a  hundred 
and  twenty-eight  beautiful,  very  beautiful  Sevres, 
China  plates,  inserted  in  the  wainscoting  of  the  wall, 
representing  incidents  in  the  history  of  Fontainebleau, 
and  views  of  royal  residences.  It  was  in  this  palace 
that  Pope  Pius  VII.,  made  an  unwilling  stay  of 
eighteen  months.  The  grounds  and  gardens  we  saw 
from  the  windows  above,  and  it  is  said  they  are  laid 
out  with  great  taste,  but  from  the  glimpse  that  we 
had,  I  should  say  they  were  more  curious  than 
beautiful :  planned  with  mathematical  accuracy  in  the 
most  quaint  and  formal  style,  long  avenues  of  trees 
cut  in  an  odd,  square,  box-like  shape  that  was  very 
peculiar.  Adjoining  this  garden,  there  was  a  large 
triangular  pond  of  water,  in  which  there  were  some 
huge  fish — carp — said  to  be  two  hundred  years  old, 
and  we  had  a  good  deal  of  sport  in  feeding  them, 
watching  their  hungry  eagerness  to  snap  the  bits  of 
cake  that  were  thrown  to  them.  At  a  neat  little  hotel, 
"  Hotel  de  France,"  we  had  a  comfortable  lunch  ;  after 
which  we  hired  a  carriage  for  two  hours,  and  drove 
out  to  the  forest  of  Fontainebleau,  which  is  sixty-three 
miles  in  circumference,  and  it  is  said  to  be  the  most 
picturesque  wood  in  the  world,  but  of  course  we  saw 
only  a  very  limited  portion,  one  or  two  points  of 
remarkable  interest :  "  Fort  de  l'Empereur,"  an  eleva- 
tion in  the  form  of  a  citadel,  from  which  an  extent  of 
nearly  forty  miles  may  be  surveyed  in  every  direction 
with  the  aid  of  a  good  glass :  the  "  Caverne  des 
Brigands,"  in  which,  not  more  than  a  century  ago, 
there  lived  a  bona  fide  robber  band.  Near  this  cavern 
is  a  hut  tenanted  by  a  man  who  sells  brandy,  lemonade, 


/•'/.'  0  M     .1  B  H  o.i/*, 

etc.,  besides  snake-  and  lizards  caughl  in  the  forest, 
and  tittle  keepsakes  of  carved  wood  and  bone.  We 
reached  the  city  about  8  o'clock  p.  m.,  weary  and  ex- 
hausted with  our  day's  effort,  we  had  an  adventure  in 
the  cars,  but  I  musl  postpone  the  telling  of  it  until 
another  time.  Friday  and  Saturday,  I  have  already 
accounted  for. 

Sabbath  Day^Jvly  /./.  This  has  been  another  memora- 
ble day  in  our  experience.  We  have  attended  high 
mass,  have  seen  the  Emperor  and  Empress,  have 
worshipped  in  the  chapel  of  the  Tuileries,  and  as  this 
is  considered  a  rare  privilege,  I  musl  explain  how  it 
all  came  to  pass.  It  was  owing  to  the  kindness  of 
Gen.  Dix,  who  sent  the  bards  of  admittance.  A  word 
aboul  these  cards;  they  were  quite  large,  about  six 
inches  long,  tour  wide,  and  rose-pink  in  color,  and  the 
grant  of  permission  to  attend  at  the  chapel  and  high 
ma--,  was  of  course  worded  in  French.  On  the  hack 
(A  the  envelope  it  stated  that  ladies  musl  appear  in 
mourning;,  and  gentlemen  must  wear  black  gloves  and 
a  peculiar  kind  of  a  hat.  The  cards  came  to  us  as  late 
as  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  for  a  little  time, 
we  were  in  a  quandary  to  know  if  it  would  he  possible 

to  conform  to  all  the  requirements;  but  Mrs.  1) , 

managed  to  borrow  from  friends  in  the  house  all  that 
was  needful  for  the  occasion.  We  were  ready  and  off 
in  our  carriage  at  the  hour  designated,  1^  meridian. 
At  the  entrance  door  three  or  four  soldiers  were  stand- 
ing guard;  we  passed  through  the  vestibule,  into  the 
hall,  where  three  or  four  ushers  were  in  waitii  _. 
They  took  our  sun-shades,  gave  us  cheeks  in  exchange  . 
and  we  passed  along  with  a  do/en  others  and  entered 
the  chapel,  which  is  small  and  not  halt'  so  beautiful 
as    manv    others    we    have    seen;    three   sides    of    the 


88  HO  HE     LETTERS. 

walls  are  covered  with  paintings,  scenes  from  the  life 
of  our  Saviour.  We  selected  our  seats  where  we  could 
command  a  good  view  of  the  upper  gallery,  and  of  the 
royal  family  who  sat,  facing  the  high  altar.  The  front 
of  this  gallery  is  draped  in  crimson  velvet  with  gilt 
fringe  and  trimmings.  We  waited  a  full  half  hour; 
at  the  expiration  of  that  time  the  tinkling  of  a  little 
bell  was  heard,  the  signal  for  the  audience  to  rise,  as 
their  majesties  were  coming. 

In  a  moment  we  were  in  the  royal  presence,  and 
involuntarily  all  eyes  were  turned  to  the  gallery,  where 
we  saw  the  Emperor  and  Empress,  both  kneeling,  and 
apparently  self-absorbed  and  indifferent  about  the 
notice  they  were  attracting.  The  Empress  is  said  to 
be  (and  what  I  saw  convinced  me  of  the  truth  of  the 
statement)  a  devout  Catholic;  her  whole  attention 
seemed  occupied  with  her  devotions.  She  is  a  woman 
of  sweet  and  gracious  beauty,  every  one  must  acknowl- 
edge that ;  her  complexion  is  pure,  her  forehead  fair, 
but  the  lower  part  of  her  face  I  could  not  see  where  I 
sat.  Her  dress  was  black,  all  black,  even  to  her  jaunty 
little  hat,  that  had  no  color  to  brighten  it,  only  a  spray 
of  jet  ornaments,  and  her  hair,  which  is  naturally  curly, 
to-day  was  put  back  quite  plain.  She  is  graceful,  I 
know  by  the  way  she  used  her  hands,  and  during  part 
of  the  service  she  rested  her  face  upon  them,  in  a  pretty, 
childlike  attitude  that  was  very  becoming.  It  is 
said  that  the  death  of  Maxamilian  (to  whom  she  was 
very  much  attached)  has  had  a  very  'depressing  effect 
upon  her  spirits.  The  Emperor  was  near,  but  not 
immediately  beside  her,  the  expression  of  his  face  was 
cold  and  unimpressible ;  he  was  twirling  his  mustache 
with  the  utmost  deliberation  and  nonchalance.  "Who 
could  tell  where  his  thoughts  were  ?  Only  of  one 
thing,  I  am  certain ;  they  were  not  in  his  devotions, 


/•'/;  0  M     A  B  ll  OAD. 

and  it  is  1 1 1 \  impression  thai  be  thinks  the  Archbishop 
of  Paris  is  responsible  for  the  care  of  his  soul,  and  thai 
religion  is  do1  the  mosl  importanl  subjecl  to  trouble 
his  brain  about.  No  other  persons  connected  with  the 
royal  household  were  visible  to  as.  The  religious  cere- 
mony lasted  doI  more  than  one  hour,  and  there  was 
qo  music  until  the  close,  then,  the  first  strain  was  the 
signal  for  the  audience  to  disperse;  and  a  very  small 
audience  it  was,  not  more  than  fifty  persons  in  all 
being  present.  We  left,  feeling  very  much  gratified 
that  we  had  enjoyed  the  opportunity  of  witnessing  the 
royal  service.     It  is  now  half-pasl  seven  in  the  evening, 

J is  resting  on  the  bed,  feeling  weary,  as  the  day 

has  been  very  warm,  and  the  shower  did  do1  cool  the 

atmosphere  perceptibly.    Mr.  and  Mrs.  D ,  after  the 

morning  service,  went  out  to  Versailles,  twelve  miles 
by  rail.  Versailles  is  arrayed  in  all  her  gala  robes  on 
Sunday,  and  this  is  a  fiSte  day,  when  it  is  expected 
that  there  will  be  fifty  thousand  peoph  there,  a1  Least, 
to  witness  the  illumination  of  the  fountains  and  the 
display  of  fireworks  in  the  evening.  We  do  uol  go 
out,  except  to  church,  on  the  Sabbath,  bu1  all  days 
are  much  the  same  here;  or  if  there  is  any  differ- 
ence, the  people  allow  themselves  greater  license  on 
this  day  than  any  other.  Most  of  the  stores  are 
open;  business  is  transacted  as  briskly  as  on  any 
ether  day,  omnibuses  are  passing,  all  the  railroads 
are  in  full  operation,  and  the  workmen  on  the  new 
Opera  House,  just  in  front  of  our  hotel,  are  hammer- 
ing away  as  on  any  ordinary  day.  The  cafe's  are  all 
open,  the  streets  are  tilled  with  people  of  every  grade 
and  condition  in  society,  all  in  pursuit  of  pleasure  and 
excitement.  The  theatres  will  be  open  to-night,  the 
circus,  the  public  gardens,  with  music  and  halls  at  the 
Champs  Elysees,  and  private  parties  without  number. 

7 


gQ  HOME     LETTERS. 

Monday,  July  15.     A  shower  of  rain  hurried  us  back 
to  our  hotel  earlier  than  we  had  intended,  not,  however, 
until  we  had  accomplished  our  visit  to  Pere  la  Chaise. 
The  approach  to  it,  is  through  a  narrow  street — Rue  de 
la   Roquette — that  is  lined   with  shops  of  statuaries, 
memorial  wreaths  and  crowns  made  of  amaranths  and 
all  other  kinds  of  odd  decorations  for  graves,  offered 
by  the  hundred  for  sale  in  these  places.     The  grounds 
of  Pere  la  Chaise  are  subdivided,  having  three  or  four 
separate  enclosures.     The  first  and  largest  division  is 
Catholic,  the  second   Jewish,   and   the   third   Protes- 
tant ;   of  course  we  only  saw  a   small  portion  of  the 
whole,  as  to  see  all  with  satisfaction,  a  guide  would 
be  requisite,  and  a  day  of  leisure.    "We  saw  the  monu- 
ment erected  to  the  memory  of  Madame  Rachel,  (this 
is  in  the  Jews'  quarter.)      It  is  a  very  plain  granite 
shaft,  resting  upon  a  vaulted  base ;  the  interior  was 
filled  with  wreaths  and  garlands  of  fresh  flowers  and 
other  mementoes,  deposited  by  her  admirers.     I  pulled 
a  flower  and  some  leaves  from  the  grave,  but  it  was  done 
in  fear  and  trembling,  almost  in  sight  of  the  "garde." 

The  Rothschilds  have  a  magnificent  vault  near  this. 
I  did  not  mention  that  on  the  morning  we  entered 
Paris  we  saw  Baron  Rothschild  at  the  depot,  where  a 
gentleman  called  our  attention  to  him ;  otherwise  we 
should  not  have  noticed  him ;  except  as  a  quiet  and 
pleasant-looking  person,  that  was  somewhat  fastidious 
in  taste,  choosing  to  wear  pearl-colored  kid  gloves  in 
travelling.     We  were  very  much  interested  in  examin- 
ing the   tomb   of  Abelard   and   Heloise ;    the   Gothic 
canopy  under  which  they  lie,  raised  out  of  the  ruins  of 
the  abbey  of  which  Heloise  was  abbess.     We  were  very 
anxious  to  get  a  spray  of  flowers  from  the  enclosure, 
and  it  required  no  little  skill  to  manage  it.     We  met  a 
number  of  Philadelphians  in  the  grounds  ;  among  that 


FROM     ABROAD.  .'// 

number,  a  eon  of  Dr.  Newton,  who  introduced  himself 
to  as.  Another  portion  of  the  ground  is  sel  apart  for 
the  poor;  they  are  buried  in  trenches;  fifty  coffins  are 
laid  side  by  side  and  three  deep  in  a  trench,  which  is 
then  covered  over  with  earth.  Each  friend  erects  a 
little  cross  marked  with  the  name  of  the  deceased,  and 
plants  a  few  flowers;  the  whole  is  then  enclosed  by 
railings.  "At  the  expiration  of  rive  years  all  th< 
railings  and  crosses  are  pulled  up,  and  the  wood  is 
given  to  the  hospitals  for  fuel.  The  ground  is  then 
levelled  down,  tour  or  five  feet  more  of  earth  is  put 
over,  and  a  fresh  tier  of  coffins  are  deposited."  There 
is  another  class  of  graves  where,  for  about  fifty  franc-, 
a  separate  grave  and  ten  years'  occupation  is  Becured, 
and  here  each  grave  has  a  little  railing,  garden  and 
cross  or  chapel.  All  the  railings  and  crosses  were 
completely  covered  with  mementoes,  wreaths  made  of 
heads,  glass  ornaments  and  pictures.  Most  of  the 
wreaths  were  made  of  amaranths,  the  color.-  so  ar- 
ranged as  to  form  the  words  of  an  inscription  in  the 
circumference  of  the  wreath.  As  we  were  passing 
out  of  the  cemetery  we  met  the  funeral  procession  of  a 
little  child,  its  body  resting  under  a  small  cradle-like 
canopy:  attached  to  the  corners  were  white  ril.lH.n-. 
the  ends  being  held  by  four  little  girls  dressed  in  white. 
without  bonnets,  luit  with  loiiii"  veils.  Two  or  three 
women  and  as  many  men,  followed  the  little  coffin; 
there  were  no  mourners,  no  crying,  no  perceptible  grief, 
and  we  said  surely  th,  mother  is  not  among  the  number 
that  carry  that  little  one  to  its  grave. 

We  considered  ourselves  fortunate  in  securing  a  car- 
riage at  the  gate,  as  it  commenced  to  rain  wry  fast  : 
we  were  glad  to  seek  the  shelter  of  our  room  instead  of 

ing  as  we  had  intended  to  the  L'alai-  de  1'  Industrie. 
We   were   housed  until  six   in   the  evening,  when   we 


92  HOME     LETTERS. 

started  out  in  search  of  a  dinner,  which  we  secured 
at  the  Cafe  de  Paris,  Passage  Jouftroy ;  this  is  a 
famous  place,  that  dines  about  three  hundred  people 
every  day.  What  would  you  at  home  think  of  walk- 
ing a  mile  every  clay  to  dinner  ?  Just  what  I  do,  per- 
haps ;  that  if  you  had  in  Philadelphia  these  beautiful 
Boulevards,  and  this  tempting  display  in  the  shop 
windows  as  you  pass  along,  you  could  not  only  walk  a 
mile,  but  a  half  dozen  if  it  were  necessary ;  or  you 
would  go  without  your  dinner  rather  than  miss  the 
sight,  but  it  is  a  mystery  to  me  how  these  people  live, 
where  and  when  they  sleep.  Paris  seems  to  be  more 
wide  awake  at  midnight  than  at  midday ;  when  do 
they  rest  ? 

Tuesday  night,  July  16.  I  am  too  weary  to  write 
much  as  we  have  been  out  all  day  at  the  Exposition, 
for  we  started  as  early  as  nine  in  the  morning,  and  did 
not  return  until  six  this  evening.  Our  day's  enjoyment 
was  very  much  increased  by  the  pleasure  we  derived 
from  meetino-  a  number  of  friends,  three  of  our  fellow- 
voyagers,  Mr.  Kyle  and  his  grandson  G-ibbony,  and  Mr. 
Foster,  (son  of  General  Foster,  of  Harrisburg,)  who  was 
on  his  return  from  Rome,  glad  to  make  his  escape  from 
the  intense  heat  and  the  cholera.  Mr.  Kyle  appeared 
delighted  to  meet  us  again,  and  his  grandson  seemed 
equally  well  pleased,  and  at  the  same  time  we  made  the 
acquaintance   of  Mr.    Campbell,  our  late   Minister  to 

Stockholm.     Mrs.  C is  a  daughter  of  Judge  Lewis  ; 

both  are  exceedingly  pleasant  and  intelligent.  "We 
dined  in  the  American  restaurant,  with  the  stars  and 
stripes  above  us  ;  a  colored  man  served  us  promptly,  and 
we  enjoyed  our  meal.  At  first  we  felt  a  strong  desire 
to  try  some  new  experiment  in  dishes  that  were  unusual 
to  our  accustomed  routine,  and  one  of  the  party  proposed 


FROM     A  B  R  0  AD.  Q  ; 

to  go  to  "<  Jhina,"  lint  the  real  of  as  put  in  a  p<  n  mptory 
no;  u for  they  did  serve  puppy  pies  and  rat-stews." 

Oar  sns<; i>fil,i,  gentleman  bad  an  irrepressibh  desin  to 
goto  Russia,  where  the  pretty  girla  were;  this  acl  oi 

imprudence  was  frowned  down  a1  <<,,,-,.     Mr.  I> puts 

on  a  vrvy  long  face  and  says  he  is  a  "hen-pecked  hus- 
band; yon  know  [am,  Ceil,  and  I  believe  the  Judge 
is  in  a  worse  plight ;  we  never  get  a  chance  to  browse 
round  at  all." 

Wednesday,  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  {July  17.) 
Another  day  lias  passed,  and  we  feel  that  we  have  aot 
accomplished   much,  although  we   have  worked   very 

hard.     Half  the  morning  was  wasted  by    Mrs.  ]) 

and  myself  in  hunting  up  a  dressmaker,  and  after  a 
long  search  we  at  the  last  extremity  discovered  her 
whereabouts;  but  we  had  to  pass  through  a  damp 
court,  up   one,    two,    three,    four,  jir,    /»/,',:<   of  stairs, 

where  lived  Madame  E ,  a  "fashionabl  dressmaker;" 

and  she  has  promised  to  "attend  upon  the  ladies  at 
their  rooms  to-morrow."  After  this  exhausting  effort 
we  had  only  strength  enough  left  to  hunt  up  a  few 
pairs  of  gloves.  On  our  way  out  to  the  Exposition 
yesterday,  we  called  at  the  hankers  and  received  our 
letters,  and  I  had  the  pleasure  of  reading  them  aloud 
to  the  company. 

Saturday,  July  JO.  It  was  my  intention  to  have 
written  something  yesterday  about  the  incident-  that 
occupied  the  day  before;  hut  starting  out  early  in  the 
morning,  and  not  returning  until  late  in  the  evening, 
I  could  not  tind  the  time  to  write  one  word.  Thurs- 
day I  was  quite  sick,  remained   in  my  room  all  day; 

Mrs.  I) sal    with  me  until   tour  in   the  afternoon, 

when   Madame  E came   to  cut    and    tit  our   two 


g^  HOME     LETTERS. 

dresses.  The  expense  of  having  them  made  here  will 
he  double  the  amount  that  we  should  pay  at  home  ;  but 
the  necessity  of  avoiding  the  government  tax  will 
oblige  us  to  have  them  made.  Yesterday  (Friday)  we 
passed  most  of  the  day  at  "  Bon  Marche,"  an  immense 
magazine  for  the  sale  of  all  kinds  and  descriptions  of 
dress  goods.  We  examined  and  looked  over  an  endless 
variety  of  articles,  a  good  many  of  which  we  were 
sorely  tempted  to  buy ;  but  the  duty  to  be  paid  on  the 
other  side   of  the  water  kept   us   in   check ;   as   Mrs. 

D 's  experience  has  given  us  a  little  insight  into 

the  annoyances  that  we  may  possibly  be  subjected  to. 
She  purchased  a  quantity  of  linen  in  London,  it  was 
sent  to  Paris  by  express,  and  the  government  officials 
will  not  allow  her  to  remove  the  box  from  their  office, 
unless  she  will  pay  a  duty  of  forty  dollars;  although 
she  assured  them  it  was  only  in  transit,  that  it  was  not 
her  intention  to  use  any  of  the  articles  in  France,  and 
that  she  only  wished  to  transfer  the  goods  to  the  care 

of  a  friend,  (Air.  Iv ,  who  sails  in  about  ten  days 

for  America.)    Mr.  D had  been  up  a  second  time  in 

the  morning,  but  failing  to  get  any  further  satisfaction 
from  the  unyielding  officials,  he  urged  us  to  go  with  him 
a  third  time,  that  by  our  increased  numbers  we  might 
frighten  them  into  instant  compliance  with  his  demand. 
It  was  a  good  suggestion;  see  what  came  out  of  it. 
As  we  approached  the  depot  we  saw  an  immense  con- 
course of  people  all  moving  in  the  same  direction, 
passed  along  another  half  square,  when  our  coachman 
was  ordered  to  halt,  looking  out  of  the  carriage  win- 
dow, we  saw  that  a  regiment  of  soldiers  had  formed  a 
hollow  square  in  front  of  the  depot ;  and  that  no  one 
was  allowed  to  go  through  the  lines.  We  had  to  get 
out,  dismiss  our  carriage,  and  make  our  way  through 
the  crowd  ;  and  passing  into  a  cafe  on  the  opposite  side 


rn  o  M    a  B  H  o  A  />.  gg 

of  the  Btreet,  took  our  seats  at  an  upper  window,  where 
we  could  have  a  clear  view,  and  then  called  for  coffee  to 
compensate  our  hosl  lor  the  privilege  of  sitting  on  his 
balcony.     And  what  was  all  this  uproar  and  commotion 
about?     What  crowned  head  was  expected  now?  we 
asked.     The  response  came,  "No  less  a  personage  than 
the  King  of  Portugal,"    After  a  delay  of  half  an  hour, 
amid  a  flourish  of  trumpets  and  the  beating  of  drums, 
three  of  the  Emperor's  carriages  came  dashing  through 
the  lines,  all  empty,  conveyances  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  expected  guest  and  his  suite.     Twenty 
minutes  later  the  cry  of  "Vive  1"  Empereur!"  is  raised, 
the  lines  open,  then  close,  the   royal    carriage  halt-  at 
the  entrance  door  of  the  depot,  the  Emperor  Napoleon 
is  handed  out  by  a  score  of  official-,  passes  directly  into 
the  building  and  we  lose  sight  of  him.     Promptly  to 
the  second  the  train  comes  in  view,  and  fifteen  minir 
later  the  King  and  Emperor  come  out   together;  both 
enter  the  same  carriage  with  two  other  irentlemen,  and 
drive  off  at  a  rapid  rate.     A  portion  of  the  cent-garde 
in  advance,  the  remainder  in  the  rear  of  the  carriage. 

Mr.  I) was  so  delighted  at  having  the  opportunity 

of  seeing  this  pageant  that  he  entirely  forgol  us  and  all 
his  troubles  of  the  morning,  and  actually  ran  a  square 
or  two  after  the  Emperor's  carriage,  for  the  purpose  of 
getting  a  nearer  view  of  him,  and  in  this  he  was  grati- 
fied, as  he  told  us  afterward  he  "was  close  enough  to 
get  a  full  view  of  him  while  he  was  in  earnest  conver- 
sation with  the  King."  These  royal  equipages  are  gor- 
geous affairs,  painted  in  brilliant  colors,  with  gold 
mountings.  The  Emperor's  carriage  was  lined  with 
white  ermine;  two  coachmen  -at  upon  the  box  and  two 
footmen  stood  behind;  their  scarlet  clothing  was  Btiff 
with  embroidery  and  gold  lace,  and  they  had  white  silk 
stockings  (their  legs  padded)  below  the  knee  buckles. 


96  HOME     LETTERS. 

It  was  very  amusing  to  watch  their  movements  and  to 
see  how  pompously  they  walked  around  showing  off 
their  importance,  even  more  than  those  they  served.  In 
starting  out  this  morning,  we  had  occasion  to  go  round 
to  the  "  Grand,"  and  there,  to  our  surprise,  we  met  Mr. 
Barnet,  who  told  us  that  they  had  arrived  on  Friday 
morning,   so    we    immediately   hired    a   carriage   and 

started  for  the  "  Louvre,"  Mr.  and  Mrs.  D going 

with  us  to  see  the  bride.  Mary  saw  us  from  an  upper 
window  and  came  running  down  to  meet  us ;  she  seemed 
very  glad,  and  we  were  equally  pleased  to  see  her  before 
leaving  Paris :  she  looked  pretty  and  happy. 

Sunday,  July  21.  This  morning  we  attended  the 
American  Chapel  in  the  Rue  de  Berri,  to  hear  Dr. 
Eldridge  preach,  and  at  the  same  time,  we  saw  quite  a 
number  of  Americans,  (all  friends  abroad,)  and  among 
the  number  Dr.  Hogarth  of  Brooklyn. 

This  afternoon  J has  been  trying  to  sleep,  but  so 

far  has  not  succeeded.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  D attended  ser- 
vice at  Notre  Dame,  and  observing  some  young  Ameri- 
can Cadets  in  the  church,  they  inquired  from  one  of 
their  number  if  there  were  any  Philadelphians  among 
them,  and  he  said, — "  Yes  I — Elwood  Colahan  ;  "  but  to 
our  regret  they  forgot  to  inquire  where  he  was  stay- 


ing. 


{Eight  o'clock  in  the  evening.)  We  have  just  returned 
from  our  long  but  successful  search  for  Elwood ;  this 
will  be  good  news  for  his  dear  mother.  Our  first  in- 
quiries were  made  of  a  gentleman  staying  at  the 
"  Grand  ;"  he  could  only  inform  us,  that  a  number  were 
stopping  at  the  St.  James.  "We  drove  there  and  saw 
one  of  the  young  gentlemen,  who  said,  he  thought  we 
perhaps  would  find  him  at  the  Hotel  Rivoli,  and  there 


/'/,'  0  M     ABROAD. 

we  did  find  him.    The  firsl   person  (who  was  a  cadet) 

J addressed  by  asking  the  question,  "  Can  yon  tell 

me  where  ]   maybe  likely  to  find   Elw I  Colahan?" 

answered,  "  5Tes,  I  know  Colahan,  he  is  in  my  room 
now."  Elwood  expressed  himself  as  delighted  to  aeeus, 
had  heard  of  our  being  in  the  city,  and  wasjusl  about 
Btarting  ou1  to  hunl  as  up,  bu1  he  expects  to  leave  to- 
morrow and  feels  not  half  satisfied  with  this  partial 
glimpse  of  Paris,  yet  the  pleasure  of  hia  visit  has  been 
greatly  increased  by  finding  his  uncle  and  aunt  here. 

Monday  morning,  July  .'.'.     We  arc  earlier  than  usual 
this  morning,  for  the  reason  that  I  expected  Madame 

E to  fit  my  dress,  but  her  maid  just  came  to  say, 

that  Madame  was  indisposed,  and  could  not  come  until 
to-morrow.  We  have  no  plans  for  the  day  and  wait  to 
hear  from  our  friends  in  Xo.  14.  Mr.  Grimes  was  tell- 
ing us  the  other  day,  that  he  in  company  with  one  or 
two  other  friends  had  gone  into  the  market  and  bought 
a  nice  horsesteak,  thai  they  carried  it  up  to  "  Johnies  " 
and  had  it  broiled,  and  that  after  the  meal  they  all  pro- 
nounced it  capital  eating,  as  good  as  beefsteak,  hut  he 
did  not  say  that  they  wished  to  try  the  experiment 
again. 

Monday  evening.    Mr.  Barnet   and   Mary   have  just 

left  me  ;  the  hour  is  half-past  ten;  J and  Mr.  and 

Mrs.   D are  attending   a  party  at  General  Dix's, 

given  in  honor  of  Admiral  Farragut.  [  had  to  be  ex- 
cused, was  indisposed,  and  this  has  been  altogether  an 
unsatisfactory  day,  as  we  have  accomplished  so  little. 

Mrs.  D started  out  with  the  intention  <>(  buying  a 

travelling  dress,  but  did  not  meet  with  one  thai  suited 
her  fancy.  I  was  with  her,  and  when  we  reached  our 
rooms  was  too  tired  to  cat  any  dinner,  however,  I  made 


98 


HOME     LETTERS. 


"  Suzan  "  bring  me  a  cup  of  tea.  I  wonder  if  you  have 
heard  of  "  our  Suzan"  before?  she  is  a  very  important 
personage,  I  assure  you;  a  buxom  lass  of  thirty-five 
summers, — stout  but  not  fat,  fair  but  not  rosy,  Avho 
discriminates  in  bestowing  her  favors  upon  the  occu- 
pants of  rooms  Nos.  12  and  14 ;  always  showing  a  de- 
cided preference  for  our  handsome  friend  of  No.  14, 
bringing  him  each  morning  a  dainty  little  nosegay  for 
his  button-hole. 

Tuesday  morning,  July  *23.     On   my  way   up  from 

breakfast,  I  stopped  in  Mrs.  D 's  room,  and  found 

Mrs.  Little,  Mrs.  Kinsley  and  herself  deeply  interested 
in  the  examination  of  a  number  of  India  shawls,  that 
had  been  sent  from  some  large  importing  house  for 
their  judgment  and  inspection,  with  a  view  of  making 

a  purchase,  but  I  must  close  for  the  present,  as  J is 

waiting  to  mail  my  letter. 

M.  C.  A. 


I  R  0  M     ABROAD.  >,'.i 


Paris, 
July  .'.'.  1867. 

Again  I  add  a  few  lines,  to  the  journal  letter,  which 

M ,  with  so  much  of  faithfulness  to  her  promise, 

keeps  for  the  gratification  of  our  friends  ;it  home.     Lasl 
Saturday  morning  I  went  to  the  Grand  Eotel,  where  I 

had  an  appointment  to  meet  Mr.  and  Mi--.    I) .to 

mygreal  surprise,  I  encountered  Mr.  Barnet  and  learned 
from  him  thai  Mary  and  himself  were  staying  at  the 
Louvre,  the  same  hotel  a1  which  Mr.  Hanna  remained 
when  in  Pari-.  We  expect  to  leave  on  Wednesday 
next,  having  been  here  three  week-,  hut  there  is  no 
necessity  for  changing  our  location  for  pleasurable  en- 
joyments. Paris  is  a  city  with  a  peculiarity  of  living 
that  can  probably  be  found  nowhere  else,  not  even  an 
approach  to  it.  for  the  Parisians  have  in  a  certain  sense, 
no  homes ;  they  live  after  business  hours  on  the  -tret, 
in  the  theatres  and  cafe's,  which  abound  everywhere  and 
arc  very  handsomely  fitted  up.  The  majority  of  the 
people  breakfast  at  these  cafes,  ami  all  Paris  dines  in 
them:  to  an  American  not  yet  initiated  in  the  habits 
and  customs  of  the  place  the  sight  is  very  novel.  We 
take  mosl  of  our  dinners  at  the  Cafe  de  Paris,  which  is 
entered  by  a  passage-way  or  arcade,  lined  with  stores  : 
passing  up  a  flight  of  stairs,  enter  a  room,  or  rather  a 
suite  of  room-,  through  which  a  long  aisle  passes 
down  the  centre;  each  side  is  lined  with  tables,  at 
which  from  eighl  to  twelve  persons  can  he  seated  com- 
fortably :  having  paid  your  tour  and  a-half  francs  at  the 
office   before  entering  the   room,  you  -elect    your  own 


100  HOME     LETTERS. 

seat  and  your  dinner  is  then  served.  At  the  Cafe  de 
Paris,  which  is  very  popular,  they  give  the  best  din- 
ners for  the  smallest  compensation  that  we  have  found 
in  Paris.  The  hill  of  fare  for  the  $1.45  is  a  bottle  of 
wine,  soup,  a  relish  of  cold  meat,  bread  and  butter,  or 
sardines  instead,  three  dishes  of  either  fish  or  meat,  in- 
cluding chickens,  ducks,  and  vegetables,  a  dessert  of 
ice  cream,  and  after  that  fruit  and  cake,  or  fruit  and 
cheese.  You  can  supplement  this  course  with  as  many 
extra  dishes  as  you  wish,  at  a  cost  of  75  centimes,  or  15 
cents  each.  The  food  is  of  the  very  best  quality,  cooked 
deliciously,  as  only  the  French  people  understand  how 
to  prepare  it ;  I  never  knew  what  a  delicious  dish  petits- 
pois  were,  until  I  ate  them  in  Paris.  Just  imagine  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  D ,  M and  myself,  going  into  a  res- 
taurant, sitting  down  among  several  hundred  people 
and  making  our  dinner  in  this  way ;  but  new  as  this 
experience  is  to  us,  we  seem  to  enjoy  it  the  more  be- 
cause it  is  novel,  though  I  am  certain  you  would  be 
amused  if  you  could  drop  in  upon  us  in  the  cafe.  At 
these  dinners  they  include  a  bottle  of  Vin  Ordinaire, 
you  can  use  it  or  not  as  you  please,  but  it  is  fair 
to  say  that  almost  all  please  to  drink  it.  Light  sour 
wine  is  the  common  beverage  of  France,  and  yet  you 
see  few  drunken  people,  or  even  those  who  look  as  if 
they  drank  to  excess,  and  I  have  noticed  but  one  man 
intoxicated  since  I  have  been  here :  at  their  meals, 
even  at  breakfast,  they  drink  wine  ;  and  in  the  evening 
as  you  pass  along  the  streets,  you  see  them  at  this 
season  of  the  year,  sitting  in  front  of  the  cafes  by  thou- 
sands, all  of  them  drinking,  but  quiet  and  orderly.  I 
have  been  impressed  with  the  resemblance  of  this  peo- 
ple to  our  own,  not  only  in  dress,  but  in  the  general 
outline  of  their  features.  You  can  distinguish  an  Eng- 
lishman wherever  you  meet  him  ;  but  no  one  by  mere 


1  l|  .  '  ; 


mm- 


n   Z*  %.t       £        ^W  **»*•  '( 


RVSfJJp 


:<§^8SB>i 


' 


Fll  o  M     A  i:  /.'  OAD.  in i 

observation  could  tell  whether  the  well  to  do  people  of 
Paris  are  French  or  American ;  \  have  made  this  re- 
mark i"  Frenchmen,  who  bave  visited  our  country,  and 
they  agree  with  me  in  this  statement,  and  Bay  thai  the 
same  I  bing  impressed  them  when  they  were  in  America. 
Paris  is  qo1  only  attractive  in  it-  outward  appearance, 
bul  is  so  full  of  places  of  presenl  and  past  interest,  thai 

to  sec  them  satisfactorily  would  take  months.      M 

has  given  you  an  accounl  of  all  of  those  which  she 
lias  visited,  but   there  arc  several   I   have  seen  which 

she   has   not.      Mr.   D and    I    went   to   the   aew 

palace  of  Justice,  and  spent  an  Lour  or  two  going 
aboul  from  Court  to  Court,  they  differ  very  little  from 
our  own  in  appearance  and  manner  of  doing  business. 
The  Judges  wore  gowns,  and  the  lawyers  black  caps  oi 
a  peculiar  shape  as  writ  as  robes.  After  we  Left  the 
Courts  we  met  an  American  lady  in  charge  of  a  French 
Madame  out  for  sighl  seeing,  and  together  we  made 
our  way  through  the  intricate  passages  of  the  <  »ld 
Palace  of  Justice,  (which  the  Emperor  is  taking 
down  piece  by  piece',  and  rebuilding,)  to  obtain  a  per- 
mit to  see  the  Conciergerie,  the  mosl  noted  of  all  the 
prisons  of  Paris.  Here  the  prisoners  of  state,  as  well 
as  th<»se  of  no  estate,  have  for  centuries  been  confined  ; 
it  is  full  of  historic  interest.  After  half  a  dozen  refer- 
ences from  one  to  another,  we  finally  came  to  the 
head  official  ;  the  little  French  woman  after  asking 
for  our  cards,  went  in  to  make  our  request,  saying 
as  she  informed  us  that  two  Judges  from  America  and 
a  lady,  wished  the  privilege  of  Beeing  the  Conciergerie, 
and  in  a  little  while  returned  with  the  order  for  ad- 
mission. We  were  taken  down  one  story  under  -'round, 
and  waited  patiently  for  the  guide  to  show  ug  through 
the  mosl  noted  parts  of  the  prison.  That  in  which 
we  were   most   interested,  was  the   cell    where    Marie 


102  HOME     LETTERS. 

Antoinette  was  confined  until  the  day  of  her  execution. 
It  has  a  small  window  through  which  a  little  light 
penetrates ;  the  same  lamp  suspended  from  the  ceiling, 
hangs  just  where  it  did  when  she  occupied  the  room; 
a  crucifix  is  fastened  to  the  wall,  before  which  she 
knelt  and  performed  her  last  devotions,  and  the  small 
iron  door  through  which  she  had  to  pass  out  stoop- 
ing, yet  remains,  but  the  division  between  her  cell 
and  that  of  her  jailer,  (who  kept  ceaseless  watch  over 
her,)  has  been  taken  away.  Shut  up  as  we  were  in 
this  little  apartment,  it  seemed  to  bring  the  past  and 
the  present  together  and  I  was  almost  able  to  realize, 
that  I  could  see  the  stately  form  of  the  unfortunate 
Queen,  proud,  commanding  and  stern,  as  she  stood  in 
her  last  days,  just  where  I  stood  then.  The  dungeon 
adjoining,  is  the  one  in  which  Robespierre  was  kept  a 
prisoner  after  his  fall  from  power;  with  his  jaw  broken, 
and  enduring  tortures  of  body  and  mind,  for  which 
he  could  find  no  alleviation;  from  here  he  was  taken 
to  the  guillotine.  From  the  cell  of  Marie  Antoinette, 
an  opening  has  been  made  into  what  is  now  the  chapel 
of  the  prison,  and  this  is  the  room  into  which,  during 
the  Reign  of  Terror,  they  were  accustomed  to  crowd 
the  prisoners  who  were  on  the  following  day  to  be 
executed.  It  has  been  rendered  classic  by  Lamartine, 
in  his  history  of  the  Girondists.  It  was  in  this  chapel 
that  the  best  and  purest  men  of  France  were  confined  in 
crowded  quarters,  and  here  transpired  the  scenes  on  the 
day  and  night  which  preceded  the  death  of  the  leaders 
of  the  Girondists,  which  I  remember  to  have  read  with 
thrilling  interest.  From  this  room  some  of  the  most 
eloquent  men  of  France  went  shouting  and  rejoicing  to 
their  dreadful  doom,  having  kept  their  last  night  as  a 
feast  to  show  their  contempt  for  death,  which  most  of 
them  believed  to  be  an  eternal  sleep ;  this  was  the  phil- 


FROM     A  J!  R  0  A  1).  In.; 

osophyas  well  as  religion  of  infidel  France.  This  room 
has  hut  one  small  window  through  which  the  lighl  is 
admitted  ;  it  is  aboul  I  wenty  by  forty  feet,  and  has  been 
filled  with  as  many  sad  and  bleeding  hearts  as  any  place 
<>f  its  size  in  the  world;  I  have  visited  no  spot  in  this 
city  that  has  been  so  full  of  interest  to  me.  Our  party 
was  increased  before  we  got  through,  bv  the  arrival  of 
Miss  Price,  Mrs.  Johnson  and  son,  of  Philadelphia.  We 
also  visited  the  Pantheon,  an  immense  building  now 
used  as  a  church,  containing  very  beautiful  paintings; 
the  subterranean  part  is  appropriated  to  the  burial  of 
the  eminent  men  of  France,  among  others  Roussean 
and  Voltaire.  Many  of  the  noted  generals,  admiral-, 
and  statesmen  of  this  country  are  here  entombed,  Lav- 
ing their  names  engraven  on  granite  tablets,  arranged 
in  double  rows.  There  is  in  these  passages  a  most  re- 
markable echo,  the  guide  amused  a  large  company  by 
giving  practical  illustrations,  keeping  up  a  humorous 
conversation  with  a  supposed  man  at  the  other  end  of 
the  passage;  and  ended  the  exhibition  by  discharging 
a  small  cannon,  which  startled  some  of  the  vi>itors  very 
much.  This  is  a  church,  remember ;  but  it  is  all  the 
same  to  the  French  people,  a  church  is  just  as  >/<><"/  as 
any  other  place,  even  if  it  is  used  to  stable  horses  in.  as 
was  done  during  the  Revolution  in  the  church  of  Xotre 
Dame.  From  the  top  of  the  Pantheon  there  is  a  very 
tine  view  of  Paris;  I  declined  to  make  the  effort  to 
climb  up  so    many  steps,  but  ottered  to  wait   for  friend 

D ,  who  proposed  to  accomplish  the  feat,  but  his 

resolution  failed  him  and  we  returned  without  an 
opportunity  of  looking  down  nponthecity  from  so  lofty 
a  point.  From  the  l'antheon  we  went  to  the  Morgue, 
the  charnel  house  of  Paris.  Here  are  brought  the  life- 
less bodies  of  those  who  seek  relief  from  care  and 
trouble,   bv   casting   themselves    into    the   Seine.     Two 


10A 


■i 


HOME     LETTERS. 


had  been  fished  up  that  morning,  one  a  man  of  about 
thirty,  the  other  perhaps  fifty  years  of  age.  They  were 
stretched  on  inclined  planes,  the  head  higher  than  the 
feet,  so  as  to  give  visitors  or  friends  a  good  view  of  the 
face,  and  thus  facilitate  recognition.  It  was  not  an 
agreeable  sight,  but  one  not  to  be  avoided  when  you 
find  yourself  at  its  doors. 

I  had  intended  to  describe  my  visit  to  the  Hotel 
Cluney,  which  contains  a  wonderful  collection  of 
ancient  and  mediaeval  curiosities,  but  find  I  must  omit 
it  for  want  of  time,  as  our  letters  must  leave  by  to- 
day's mail. 

Last  evening  was  spent  with  General  Dix.  Here 
was  assembled  a  company  of  Americans,  largely  com- 
posed .of  handsome  and  charming  ladies,  who  would 
have  been  a  creditable  representation  of  the  sex  from 
any  land.  I  was  introduced  to  Admiral  Farragut,  his 
wife  and  daughter  ;  to  a  daughter  of  General  Wads- 
worth,  Professor  Rogers  and  wife  of  Philadelphia,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Norton,  now  residents  of  Paris.  General  Dix 
is  a  small  man,  was  dressed  in  military  uniform,  shows 
the  marks  of  age,  but  is  a  polished  gentleman  in  man- 
ner and  appearance.  We  arrived  home  about  twelve 
o'clock,  in  a  shower  of  rain,  but  fortunately  had  re- 
tained our  carriage  at  the  door.  J.  A. 


FROM  ABROAD.  X05 


City  of  Brussels, 

Friday,  July  26,  1867. 

I  am  writing  from  a  room  in  tin-  Hotel  de  Bellevue. 
We  arrived  here  at  half-past  ten  last  evening,  leaving 
Paris  at  a  quarter  to  four  in  the  afternoon,  making 
the  distance,  two  hundred  miles,  in  six  hours.  Thar. 
I  believe  is  about  the  ordinary  rate  of  speed  on  the 
Continent;  and  it  is  quite  too  fast  for  my  unsteady 
nerves.  The  other  members  of  the  party  do  not  seem 
to  be  in  the  leasl  discomposed  by  the  rapid  progression, 

but   rather  to  enjoy  it;  for  I  heard  J and   Mrs. 

D talking   about   the   luxurious   comfort    <>t*  the 

cars,  and  the  smoothness  of  the  roads.     The  roads  are 
smooth  and  as  level  as  a  floor;   you  pass  along  very 
quietly  and  with  so  little  motion,  that  if  y<>u  have  the 
inclination,   you    can    converse    and    read    with    the 
greatest  comfort.     The  ears  are  uo1  arranged  as  ours 
are.     You  enter  at  the  side,  the  seats  placed  crosswise 
instead  of  lengthwise  as  with  us,  holding  four  on  each 
side,  and  the  seats  are  subdivided,  have  arm  rests,  and 
are  padded  at  the  back   and  sides  mosl    comfortably. 
When    the    train    is    about  starting,  the    "garde,"    in 
uniform,   examines    the   tickets,    shuts    the    door   and 
locks  it.     There  you   are,  secure,  if  not   safely   kept, 
until  you  arrive  at   the   next    station;   and   at  every 
station   where   the   train   stops,  the  doors  are  opened 
and  you  may  pass  out  if  you  please.     At  the  principal 
stopping  points  time  enough  is  allowed  to  take  refresh- 
ment; good  tea,  excellent  coffee,  and  bread  and  butter 
can  always  be  had.     Politeness   on   the   part    of    the 
officials  to  travellers,  is  universal ;  there  i>  no  noi>L-  or 

8 


106  HOME     LETTERS. 

confusion,  no  idlers  crowding  about  the  depot,  and 
only  persons  who  are  about  to  take  a  train,  or  have 
reached  the  end  of  their  journey,  are  allowed  to  pass 
through  gates  or  the  depot.  On  this  long  line  of  road 
I  noticed  that  it  crossed  but  few  of  the  country  roads 
on  the  same  level,  for  they  were  either  bridged,  to 
allow  it  to  pass  under,  or  avoided  altogether ;  except 
in  a  few  instances,  where  gates  were  established,  and 
guarded  by  men  or  women.  This  accounts  for  the 
infrequency  of  accidents  in  this  country,  when  com- 
pared with  our  own  miserably  defective  system  of 
railway  management  in  America.  Another  charming 
feature  in  connection  with  these  railroads,  in  contrast 
with  our  unsightly  railways  is,  that  here  the  ground 
on  either  side,  is  cultivated  as  carefully  as  a  private 
garden ;  and  the  embankments  are  covered  with 
closely  shaven  grass,  grown  down  to  the  very  edge  of 
the  rails.  The  depots  are  substantially  constructed 
buildings  of  stone,  and  some  of  them  are  so  ornamental 
in  their  exterior  adornments,  you  might  readily 
mistake  them  for  gentlemen's  country  seats,  sur- 
rounded as  they  are  by  flowers  and  beautiful  creeping 
vines,  tastefully  trained  about  the  doors  and  windows. 
Our  last  two  days  (Wednesday  and  Thursday)  in 
Paris,  were  spent  by  three  of  the  party  in  returning 
visits  and  in  shopping,  but  I  remained  in  my  room 
most  of  the  time,  feeling  very  much  exhausted,  after 

all  our  sight  seeing  expeditions.    Mr.  B and  Mary, 

called  to  say  good-bye,  as  on  these  last  two  days  we 
had  dined  together,  at  the  Cafe'  de  Paris,  and  I  gave 
her  a  list  of  the  shops  at  which  she  might  safely  make 
her  purchases,  without  fear  of  being  defrauded. 

Saturday  morning,  July  27.     We  are  up  early,  and 
now   wait   for  Mr.    and   Mrs.    D ,   that   we   may 


/'/,'  0  M      A  IIROAD.  Jn; 

breakfast,  and  be  off  to  the  field  of  Waterloo.     It  is 
twelve   miles   from   the  city,   a    long   ride,   and    will 
probably  occupy  most  of  the  day  in  going  out,  over- 
looking the  battle  ground  and   in  returning.     While 
I  am  waiting  I  will  tell  yon  how  we  passed  the  time 
yesterday.     We    hired   a   carriage   and   a    "  Valel    de 
place"  for  the  day,  and   he  took    as  all   around  and 
.through  the  city  and  into  some  of  the  public  buildings. 
Brussels  is  a  beautiful  city,  at  least  the  upper  portion, 
which  is  built  on  the  acclivity  of  a  hill,  and  contains 
the  park,  the   royal    palace,  and   government    offic 
the  finest  squares,  streets,  hotels,  and  the  residences  of 
the    wealthy    classes.      The    lower    town    has    a    more 
crowded  and  mean  appearance,  and  here  are  the  h"i 
of  the  poorer  people.     The  Hotel  de  Bellevue  is  the 
principal  hotel,  and  is  delightfully  located  in  sight  of 
the  park,  and  immediately  adjoining  the  king's  palace, 
which    is   a    very  plain    building,  and    not    attractive 
outside,  whatever   it    may  he    in    tin'    interior.     Four 
beautiful  streets  surround  the  park,  on  which  are  the 
finest  mansions  in  Brussels.     On  the  south  side  is  the 
Royal   Palace,   and   on    the    north    is   the   House    of 
Parliament,  which  is  a   noble  looking  building  exter- 
nally, ornamented  as  it  is,  with  beautiful  fluted  columns 
in    front.       The    two    chambers    of    Parliament    arc 
elegantly  fitted  up.  and  with  the  Senate  chamber  we 
were   particularly    charmed;    its  decorations    were    in 
such  excellent  taste.     The  form  of  the  room  was  semi- 
circular, the  seats  of  the  members  raised  gradually  one 
above  the  other,  three   rows   running   round  the  half 
circle,  chairs  wide  and  spacious,  with  neat  desks  before 
each  one.    The  wallswere  faced  with  square  mahogany 
panel-:  except   the  centre   portions  which   were  tilled 
in    with    silk,  plaited,  like    that    in    the    face    of   our 
upright    piano;   the   color   was    light    auburn,   which 


108  HOME     LETTERS. 

harmonized  well  with  the  russet  hue  of  the  polished 

wood  and  gilded  ornaments.     The  raised  platform  and 

desk  of  the  presiding  officer  was   elaborately  carved, 

and  on  either  side  resting  upon  brackets  against  the 

wall,  were   very  fine  busts   of  the   present   king  and 

queen.     Mr.  Dougherty  becoming  a  little  excited,  could 

not  resist  the  temptation  to  give  us  from  the  rostrum 

the   "  Star   Spangled   Banner."      The   old   woman   in 

whose    charge    we    were,   looked    quite    confounded, 

when   we  joined   so    enthusiastically   in    the   chorus, 

and  wondered   what   all   the   excitement   was   about. 

The  gentlemen  tried  to  make  her  understand  that  it 

was   our   national    song ;    but   I   doubt   if    her   ideas 

extended  beyond  the  two  franc  fee  that  she  was  waiting 

to  receive,  as  we  passed  out  of  the  chamber.     In  the 

library  there  were  one  or  two  exquisite  pictures,  and 

one,  a  moonlight  scene,  particularly  impressed  me.     In 

the  foreground  were   the  ruins  of  an  old  monastery, 

with  a  vista  of  broken  columns  extending  far,  far  in 

the  distance,  and  there  was  only  one  solitary  figure  to 

give  it  the  effect  of  moving  life  and  animation.     The 

moon's  rays  falling  from  above,  cast  over  the  whole 

scene,  such  a  pure,  soft  and  hallowed  light,  that  as  I 

looked,  it  impressed  me  with  a  holy  awe,  and  made 

me  feel  that  I  would  like  to  sit  in  dreaming  repose 

under  its  heavenly  influence.     Another  palace  that  we 

visited  (now  occupied  as  a  museum  and  picture  gallery) 

was,  in  years  gone  by,  the  home  of  Maria  Theresa. 

The  only  painting  that  we  especially  desired  to  see, 

we   failed  to  get  access  to,  because  that  part  of  the 

building   was   undergoing   repairs ;    and   this   picture 

was  Rubens'  Crucifixion,  which  is  said  to  be  his  best. 

In  a  room  where  the  municipal  authorities  hold  their 

meetings,   there   was    upon    the    ceiling,   the    oddest 

conception    and    the    most    incomprehensible   (to    an 


FROM     ABROAD.  209 

[inartistic  eye)  arrangemenl  of  female  figures.  T 
Bcarcely  know  how  intelligibly  to  describe  them 
that  vou  will  understand.  The  figures  were  placed 
in  such  postures,  thai  taking  your  position  a1  one  end 
of  the  room,  they  were  lying  down,  mid-way  half 
reclining,  a1  the  opposite  end  Bitting  upright,  each 
attitude  I >ri ng  graceful,  easy  and  el i arming.  Another 
female  figure,  with  her  arms  extended  above  her  head, 
the  lower  limbs  exposed  and  towards  yon.  change  your 
standpoint  as  yon  would,  it  still  occupied  the  Bame 
relative  position  towards  you.  It  was  to  as,  at  least, 
a  most  unaccountable  and  ingenious  device  of  the 
artist.  Riding  along  thestreets,  we  uoticed  something 
that  we  had  seen  Qowhere  else,  little  looking  glasses 
placed  outside  of  the  windows,  one  for  almost  every 
house,  and  I  said  to  our  valet,  "  what  are  they  for  ?  y' 
His  answer  was,  "  Oh,  madame,  thai  is  to  lei  the  lady 
of  the  house  know,  in  advance,  who  is  coming;  and  if 
it  is  a  visitor  that  she  is  disinclined  to  Bee,  she  Bays  to 
the  servant,  'not  at  home.'"  These  little  mirrors 
consist  of  two  pieces  of  glass  placed  at  an  angle  of 
forty-five  degrees  to  each  other,  the  one  reflecting  up, 
the  other  down  the  Btreet;  and  by  means  of  this 
contrivance,  the  lady  can  see  all  that  passes  outside, 
without  the  trouble  of  going  to  the  window,  and 
while  she  sits  behind  the  shade  may  continue  her 
knitting  or  sewing  uninterruptedly.  "We  have  heen 
teasing  and  telling  "Dock,"  that  this  is  a  capital 
siurirestion  for  him  to  follow,  and  that  after  our  return 
home,  we  shall  expect  to  see  a  half  do/en  put  out  at 
Eighth  and  Locust.  Another  convenient  and  henevo- 
lent  idea  is  this,  to  place  clocks  at  the  corners  of  the 
principal  streets,  as  high  as  the  second  sfcory  windows 
of  the  dwelling,  so  that  all  may  see  the  hour  of  the 
day    distinctly.      Some    kindly   disposed    person    must 


110  HOME     LETTERS. 

have  suggested  this  for  the  convenience  of  the  poor. 
The  old  fortifications  and  walls  around  the  city  have 
been  removed,  and  in  their  place  beautiful  boulevards 
and  promenades  have  been  made ;  and  the  whole  space 
has  been  planted  with  large  trees,  extending  nearly 
five  miles  around  the  city,  delightful  for  either  riding 
or  walking.  At  this  season  of  the  year,  the  wealthier 
portion  of  the  population  are  off  to  Switzerland  or  the 
German  watering  places,  and  the  city  has  a  deserted 
look ;  but  during  the  winter  months,  when  the  court 
is  at  home,  it  must  be  very  gay  and  charming,  very 
much  like  Paris  on  a  miniature  scale.  The  better  class 
of  dwellings  have  no  outside  steps,  no  entrance  door  on 
the  street,  as  our  houses  have ;  but  you  enter  through 
the  "  porte-cochere,"  an  open  courtyard  from  the  pave : 
inside  you  gain  access  to  the  house ;  these  passages  are 
closed  at  night  by  large  doors  or  gates,  all  which  you 
will  understand  by  referring  to  the  Butler  house  on 
"Walnut  street.  In  the  newer  portion  of  the  city  the 
streets  are  wide  and  well  paved  with  granite  blocks ; 
but  the  sidewalks  are  so  narrow  that  two  cannot  walk 
very  comfortably  together,  and  the  consequence  is, 
most  persons  prefer,  and  do  walk  in  the  streets. 

Saturday  evening.  We  have  been  to  Waterloo,  have 
seen  the  battle-field,  now  nearly  all  covered  over  with 
growing  grain.  The  village  of  Waterloo,  on  the 
outskirts  of  the  forest  of  Soignies,  is  twelve  miles 
distant  from  Brussels,  and  was  the  headquarters  of  the 
English  army  on  the  day  before  and  following  the 
battle,  to  which  it  has  given  its  name.  The  moment 
we  came  in  sight  of  the  place,  we  were  assailed  by 
guides  and  relic  vendors ;  the  first  threw  a  little 
pamphlet  in  at  the  carriage-window,  and  before  we 
could  have  time  to  examine  it,  a  second  one  snatched 
it  out  of  Mrs.  D 's  hand,  and  called  the  first  one 


Fll  OM    ABROAD.  / / / 

an  impostor.  This  a1  leasl  convinced  as  thai  he  was 
a  rascal  and  a  mean  fellow,  so  we  demanded  the  book  : 
and  seeing  thai  we  were  in  earnest,  he  yielded  it  up 
wrv  unwillingly.  Among  the  curiosities  of  Waterloo, 
in  the  examination  of  which,  they  used  every  persua- 
sion to  induce  us  to  leave  our  carriage,  was  the  grave 
of  the  Marquis  of  Anglesea's  leg^  the  house  in  which  it 
was  cut  oft',  and  where  the  boot  belonging  to  it  is 
preserved.  The  owner  of  this  house,  to  whose  share 
this  relic  lias  fallen,  has  buried  the  leg  mosl  decor- 
ously within  a  coffin,  under  a  weeping  willow,  and  has 
honored  it  with  a  monumenl  and  an  epitaph.  We 
passed  through  -Mont  St.  Jean,"  a  Ion--  straggling 
village,  jusl  on  the  edge  of  the  field  of  battle,  and  on 
to  the  "Hotel  du  Musee,"  in  Bight  of  the  mound, 
surmounted  by  the  Belgic  Lion.  We  were  very  much 
interested  in  looking  over  the  relics  contained  in  the 
museum  connected  with  this  hotel,  a  great  many  of 
them  having  been  collected  by  "  Major  Cotton,"  who 
established  the  house  that  is  now  kept  by  his  niece, 
and  from  whom  we  purchased  a  history  of  the  battle, 
written  by  her  uncle,  who  was  an  active  participant 
in  the  tight;  and  we  bought  photographs  too  of  the 
principal  points  of  interest.  At  the  farm  of  "La 
Haye  Sainte,"  close  to  this  house,  a  spot  is  shown  as 
the  grave  of  the  valorous  life  guardsman,  who  killed 
nine  Frenchmen  with  his  own  hand  in  the  battle.  La 
Belle  Alliance,  is  a  solitary  white  house,  (now  a  poor 
public  house,)  which  wras  occupied  by  the  French, 
whose  lines  were  drawn  up  close  behind  it.  but  the 
Chateau  of  Hougoumont  is  decidedly  the  mosl  inter- 
esting spot  on  the  field  of  Waterloo,  because  it  >till 
exhibits  marks  of  the  dreadful  conflict.  The  original 
house  se1  on  fire  by  French  shells  has  hern  entirely 
removed,  and  a  new  one  now  occupies  its  place;  but 


112  HOME     LETTERS. 

some  of  the  outhouses,  still  exhibit  a  shattered  and 
patched  up  appearance ;  and  the  walls  of  the  orchard 
retain  the  loop  holes  formed  by  the  English,  which  on 
the  outside,  present  a  broken  surface,  crumbling  to  the 
touch.  In  a  little  chapel  (within  the  enclosure)  is 
shown  a  crucifix  saved  (as  the  peasants  say)  by  miracle 
from  the  flames,  which,  after  destroying  all  about  it, 
stopped  on  reaching  the  foot  of  the  cross.  You  reach 
the  top  of  the  mound  (beneath  which  the  bones  of 
friends  and  foes  lie  heaped  indiscriminately  together) 
by  a  flight  of  two  hundred  steps,  and  it  almost  takes 
my  breath  away  now,  as  I  recall  the  fatiguing  effort 
of  its  ascent ;  but  once  surmounted,  it  is  by  far  the  best 
position  for  a  general  survey  of  the  whole  field.  Its 
present  appearance  differs  of  course  considerably  from 
what  it  was,  at  the  time  of  the  battle,  owing  to  the 
excavations  made  to  obtain  earth  for  this  immense 
artificial  mound  and  for  other  .purposes.  A  half  dozen 
guides  were  in  attendance  to  describe  and  point  out 
the  different  localities  of  interest,  and  to  represent  the 
action  in  accordance  with  our  sympathies,  no  matter 
on  which  side  we  were. 

Returning  to  the  hotel,  we  ordered  lunch,  and  while 

it  was  being  prepared  Mrs.  I) and  myself  took  a 

stroll  in  the  garden,  gathered  some  flowers  for  Minnie, 
and  ate  a  few  cherries  that  grew  upon  the  wall — the 
,  branches  of  the  trees  trained  as  we  would  secure  grape 
vines.  We  shall  remember  "  Miss  Cotton's  "  tea  as 
being  excellent,  her  home-made  bread,  cold  ham, 
pickles,  and  cheese,  to  which  we  did  ample  justice, 
and  for  all  of  which  she  made  a  very  moderate  charge. 
Our  ride  home  was  made  doubly  pleasant  by  the  re- 
freshing influences  of  this  meal,  especially  the  tea  ;  and 
we  did  not  feel  the  jolting  over  the  rough  road  to  be  so 
great  a  discomfort  as  when  we  passed  out ;  it  is  the  old 


FROM     ABROAD.  //.; 

military  road,  paved  all  the  distance,  (12  miles)  bu1 
now  very  much  oul  of  repair.  The  country  through 
which  we  passed  was  more  in  it-  general  appearance 
and  cultivation  like  Pennsylvania,  than  any  country 
through  which  we  have  travelled.  The  absence  of 
farm  houses  was  its  only  peculiarity,  as  the  peasantry 
live  in  villages,  and  from  these  towns  the  laborers  go 
out  wrvy  morning,and  return  in  the  evening;  formen, 
women  and  children,  work  together  in  the  fields.  The 
men  wear  over  their  coarse  pantaloons  a  kind  of  shirt 
or  smock  frock,  made  of  blue  chintz,  with  a  yoke  fit- 
ting the  neck,  and  coming  down  to  the  knees.  The 
women  wear  a  short  gown  and  petticoat,  a  white  mus- 
lin cap.  sometimes  it  is  trimmed  with  gay  ribbons,  then 
they  call  it  a  bonnet.  The  only  unsightly  thing  is 
their  shoes, — clumsy  and  big,  always  too  big  for  their 
feet,  they  go  clamping  along  the  roads,  and  if  you  did 
not  see  them,  you  would  suppose  it  to  be  the  tramping 
of  horses  approaching.  These  shoes  are  cut  out  of  a 
solid  piece  of  wood,  and  turn  up  at  the  toe.  The  peo- 
ple seem  to  be  very  cleanly  in  their  habit>.  and  the 
houses  have  a  neat  and  well-kept  appearance,  externally 
and  internally.  We  had  a  peep  inside  the  door  of  one 
or  two  of  them ;  the  brick  floor  was  clean  and  nicely 
sanded,  the  tins  against  the  wall  shone  as  bright  as 
silver;  the  curtains  at  the  windows  were  white  as 
snow,  and  the  row  of  flower  pots  between,  with  their 
bright  blooming  flowers,  gave  the  whole  not  only  an 
air  of  comfort,  but  indicated  taste,  and  at  leasl  a  mod- 
erate degree  of  refinement. 

Sabbath  evening,  July  28.  We  have  been  making  a 
short  visit  (in  the  hotel)  to  Mr.  Thomas  W.  Evans  ami 
his  family.  They  are  now  on  their  return  to  Paris,  and 
have  been  away  from  home  one  year. 


HJf,  HOME      LETTERS. 

After  dinner  to-day,  sitting  with  Mrs.  D in  a 

little  alcove,  under  a  covered  passage  way,  leading  from 
the  dining  hall,  a  lady  came  up  and  addressed  me  by 
asking,  "  Are  you  not   Mrs.    Allison  ? "    I   responded 

"  Yes."     She  then  introduced  herself  as  Mrs.  J ,  a 

cousin  of  Mrs.  Fine ;  and  said  that  she  recognized  me 

from  a  photograph  she  had  seen  of  me  in  Mrs.  F 's 

album.  Her  husband  and  three  children  are  with  her, 
and  they  were  stopping  at  the  same  hotel  in  Paris,  but 

we  had  not  met  before.     J and  I  were  at  church 

once  to-day,  at  the  Chapel  Royal ;  the  service  was  long, 
and  the  sermon  rather  dull  and  pointless.  The  Sabbath 
day  is  much  better  observed  here  than  in  Paris  ;  most 
of  the  stores  were  closed  in  the  morning,  but  open  in 
the  afternoon  and  evening.  We  are  now  writing  by 
candle-light,  as  no  arrangement  is  made  for  burning 
gas  in  the  chambers  at  any  of  the  hotels  on  the  con- 
tinent ;  why  I  cannot  tell.    I  do  not  believe  I  have  told 

you  about  J 's  special  institution,  established  for  the 

comfort  of  the  whole  party,  but  more  especially  for  my 
benefit.  In  Paris  he  bought  a  lunch  basket,  and 
stocked  it  well  with  a  good  many  nice  little  delicacies, 
to  tempt  the  appetite  of  the  weary  travellers ;  a  package 
of  tea,  and  a  small  parcel  of  loaf  sugar  were  not  for- 
gotten, and  to-night  as  we  were  brewing  our  tea  over  a 
spirit  lamp,  some  one  knocked  at  the  door.  It  was  Mrs. 
Dixon,  who  saw  at  a  glance  that  we  were  occupied 
with  our  domestic  affairs,  and   was   about   retreating, 

when  J ,  with  his  usual  gallantry,  insisted  that  she 

must  share  our  supper.     Mrs.  D ,  and  her  mother 

Mrs.  II ,  are  warm,  personal  friends  of  Mr.  Barnes 

and  family,  and  are  members  of  his  church. 

Monday,  July  29.     We  are  up  very  early.    J and 

I  have  had  our  breakfast,  and  it  is  not  yet  seven  o'clock, 


F  /i  o  M     ABROAD.  1  U 

bu1  there  i&a  reason  for  this,  let  me  explain.  He  had 
the  ill-luck  to  lose  one  of  the  fillings  of  a  tooth;  but  at 
the  same  time  had  the  good  fortune  to  come  across  an 
American  dentist,  Dr.  Fay,  whose  only  disengaged 
hour  was  9  o'clock  this  morning.     Our  neighbors  Mr. 

and  Mrs.   1> are  yet  in  dream-land,  I  Buppose,  as 

there  is  no  stir  next  door,  but  in  a  little  while  I  expect 
to  hear  a  gentle  tap,  and  a  pleasanl   voice  calling  out: 

"Mrs.  A ;  say,  Mrs.  A ,  are  you  up?     Has  the 

Judge  e:one?':  How  the  hours  of  this  day  are  to  be 
disposed  of  is  yet  to  be  determined ;  but  it  is  probable 
that  we  shall  go  on  our  journey  as  far  as  Antwerp. 
which   is  only  one  hour  distant  from  this  city.     -Mrs. 

D is  commissioned,  to  buy  one  or  two  point  shawls; 

and  very  likely  we  will  visit  some  of  the  manufactories 
this  morning,  to  examine  laces  and  compare  prices. 

Tuesday,  July  30.  Here  we  are  in  the  old  city  of 
Antwerp,  at  the  hotel  "St.  Antoine,"  on  k*  Place  Verte." 
We  have  pleasant  and  communicating  rooms,  have  al- 
ready secured  the  service  of  a,  valet  de  pl>i<-< .  and  will  go 
out  in  a  little  while  to  view  the  city  and  learn  its 
peculiarities.  I  have  only  time  to  say,  that  we  left 
I>ru>>els  yesterday  afternoon  at  half-pasl  2.  The  dis- 
tance was  only  twenty-six  miles,  and  on  our  way  we 
passed  through  Mechlin,  were  the  lace  of  that  name  is 
manufactured. — a  very  pretty  town,  with  wide,  clean 
streets,  and  attractive  dwellings.  The  gentlemen  of 
our  party  left  Brussels  with  regretful  adieus,  knowing 
that  in  all  probability  they  would  never  stroll  along  its 

delightful  and  charming  boulevards  again.     Mr.  D 

was  in  a  state  of  great  mental  disquietude,  waving  his 
hat,  and  kissing  his  hand  to  all  the  lovely  and  beauti- 
ful women  that  he  was  leaving  behind. 

Before  I  close  my  letter,  I  must  tell  you  of  our  visit 


116  HOME     LETTERS. 

to  the  lace  manufactories  of  Brussels,  for  which  the  city 
is  so  famous.  It  is  made  in  large  rooms,  by  the  hands 
of  females,  most  of  them  young  girls,  who  form  each 
sprig,  tendril,  bud,  blossom,  and  leaf  separately,  and 
then  they  are  sewed  on  to  the  plain  net,  which  is  laid 
over  a  full  designed  pattern,  traced  on  a  blue  ground. 
In  one  room  we  saw  perhaps  a  dozen  women,  with 
large  cushions  on  their  knees,  over  which  they  were 
bending.  Upon  these  were  a  great  number  of  small 
needles,  to  which  they  fastened  the  thread,  as  they 
wove  it  into  leaves  or  flowers.  It  is  a  most  trouble- 
some and  tedious  labor,  very  painful,  from  the  con- 
strained attitude  and  fixed  attention  that  the  girls  are 
compelled  to  maintain.  Poor  creatures !  how  I  pitied 
them,  they  all  had  an  unhealthy,  pallid  appearance. 
As  I  looked  at  the  wonders  of  delicate  tracery,  gossa- 
mer-like in  texture,  I  thought  of  the  weary  fingers,  and 
the  aching  eyes,  which  had  toiled  over  them  in  meek 
suffering ;  and  I  almost  made  a  vow,  that  never  again 
should  a  yard  of  point  lace  embellish  my  person. 

M.  C.  A. 


FROM     A  B  110  AD.  //; 


I  write  to  you,  not  from   Paris,  where  we  tarried  for 
so  long  a  time,  but  from  Brussels,  the  capital  of  Bel- 
gium.   It  seems  strange  to  me,  thai  I  am  indeed  bo  Ear 
away  from  you  all,  upon  the  spot  which  has  been  so 
often  a  battle  field,  and  where  the  fate  of  empires  has 
been  derided.     The  journey  from  Paris  to  Brussels  gave 
us  an  opportunity  of  seeing  how  things  looked   in   a 
portion  of  France  outside  of  the  city,  as  our  journey 
from  Calais  to  Paris  was  in  the  night,  we  -aw  not  much 
of  anything  on  our  way.     The  country  through  which 
the  railroad  runs  is  generally  level,  and  we  were   sur- 
prized at  the  absence  of  the  forest  trees  like  those  of 
America,  there  are  very  few  of  them   in  this  part  of 
France,  none  arc  large,  and  nearly  all  the  tree-  which 
we  saw  arc  planted  in  rows  along  lines  of  farms,  instead 
of  fences.     Owing  to  the  scarcity  of  wood,  they  have 
few  enclosures  of  any  kind;  ditches  and  hedges  mark 
the  boundaries  between  plots  of  land  and  fields.     An- 
other thing  noticeable  by  an  American  is,  that  extended 
tracts  of  country  meet  the  eye  every  where,  and  few  farm 
houses  and  barns  are  to  be  seen.     The  farmers  of  France 
do  not  live  upon  their  own  farms,  as  do  ours,  hut  in  vil- 
lages, and  as  land  is  very  much  cut  up  and  divided  into 
small  plots,  each  one  goes  out  to  his  piece  of  ground  in 
the  morning  and   returns  in   the   evening;    and    when 
you  look  over  a  great  extent  of  country,  and  Bee  bo  few 
houses,  you  can  hardly  persuade  yourself  that  it   is  as 
densely  populated  as  it  is.     A  stranger,  unacquainted 
with  the  habit  of  the  people  in  this  respect  would  ; 
where  ^\^  the  inhabitants  live?     But  France  is  a  beau- 


118  HOME     LETTERS. 

tiful  countrj  ;  the  towns  and  cities  have  an  antiquated 
appearance,  which  is  interesting  to  us,  because  so  dif- 
ferent from  those  we  have  been  accustomed  to,  and  just 
at  this  time,  everything  is  seen  at  its  best,  for  the 
crops  are  either  growing  or  have  been  cut  ready  to  be 
harvested,  and  nature  having  on  her  most  attractive 
robes,  looks  bright  and  beautiful.  But  I  must  repeat, 
the  want  of  dwellings  and  barns  and  fences,  and  the 
grand  forests  and  woods,  which  we  possess,  is  a  want  in 
the  picture,  which  impresses  an  American  unfavorably. 
They  have  no  crop  that  can  compare  with  our  corn  for 
beauty.  The  city  where  we  now  are  has  a  bright  and 
cheerful  look,  and  is  called  a  miniature  Paris ;  and  so 
in  some  respects  it  is,  for  the  houses,  by  the  use  of  paint 
and  ornaments  of  plaster  in  relief,  are  made  to  resemble 
in  appearance  the  beautiful  stone  carvings  on  the  public 
buildings  in  Paris.  The  streets  are  wide  and  paved 
with  square  blocks  of  stone,  and  a  boulevard  which 
runs  all  round  the  city  planted  with  double  rows  of 
trees ;  one  of  the  spaces  being  devoted  to  equestrians 
exclusively,  and  altogether  the  street  is  not  less  than 
two  hundred  feet  wide.  It  gives  to  the  city  a  most 
beautiful  appearance  at  this  season  of  the  year.  Our 
hotel  is  a  fine  large  house,  and  adjoins  the  palace  of  the 
King,  and  both  front  on  a  park,  through  which  are 
wide  avenues  of  large  elm  trees,  which  are  very  pleasant 
to  the  eye,  and  very  comfortable  for  the  people  to  walk 
and  lounge  under  in  the  heat  of  summer.  Brussels 
has  a  quiet,  sober  air,  more  like  that  of  'Philadelphia 
than  any  city  I  have  seen  since  leaving  home,  and  this 
is  more  marked  just  now,  as  the  nobility  and  aristocracy 
are  away  at  their  country  seats.  The  American  Minis- 
ter, Mr.  Sanford,  has  a  very  handsome  residence  on  the 

boulevard  ;  his  wife  is  a  sister  of  Mr.  D ,  of  W.  P., 

and  she  is  said  to  be  a  very  attractive  and  beautiful 


F  Ii  0  M     ABROAD.  /  /.'/ 

lady.     Mr.   D ,  who  has  a  letter  of  introduction, 

proposed  thai  we  Bhould  together  call  on  him,  but   we 
have  not  yei  found  time  to  do  so.    The  palace  of  the 
King  is  built  on  the  line  of  the  street,  and  has  nothing 
of  grandeur  in  its  external  view,  and  this  is  to  Borne 
extenl  i  rue  of  the  palaces  of  Paris,  such  as  the  Tuileries 
and  the  Louvre,  grand  old  historic  buildings  they  are! 
bu1    the    interior    arrangements    and    furnishing,   the 
decorations,  works  of  art,  paintings  and  sculpture  are 
magnificent,  and  can  only  he  appreciated  when  seen. 
The  Emperor  Napoleon  is  engaged  in  connecting  the 
palace  of  the  Louvre  with  the  Tuileries,  so  as  to  iden- 
tity and  connect  his  name  with  these  piles  of  past  and 
of    present    interest.      Helghim    is    a    small    kingdom, 
not  more  than   one-sixth  as  large  a-    England,  and  the 
palace,   in  its  mathematical  proportions,  is  in  keeping 
with  the  kingdom  itself;  hut  small  as  Belgium  is,  the 
Belgians  are   proud  of  their  little   State;   in   the   city 
of  Brussels,  they  have  erected  a  monument   of  marble, 
surmounted  by  a  statue  of  liberty,  over  three  hundred 
of  their  people,  who  were  killed   in   the  tight   with   the 
Dutch,  when   they   rebelled  against   Holland,  to  which 
country  they  were  at  that  time  subject.     1  Baid  to  our 
guide,  a   Belgian,  who  had  been  in  the  tight  for  inde- 
pendence, that  Napoleon  was  hungry  tor  their  country, 
and  some  of  these  days  would  swallow  them  down  at  a 
mouthful,     lie  became  very  indignant,  and   said  they 
"would  never  he  under  French  control ;  that  they  would 
drive  out  the  French,  as  they  had  driven  out  the  Dutch." 
Seven    thousand    Dutch    soldiers    were    killed    in    the 
streets  of  Brussels  in  the  contest  of  1830.     On  Saturday, 
we  drove  out  twelve  miles  to  the  battle-field  of  Water- 
loo; had  a  plea-ant  day,  and  from  the  mound  obtained 
an  excellent  and  extended  view  of  the  scene  of  conflict. 
Every  important  spot  of  the  ground  was  pointed  out  bj 


120  HOME     LETTERS. 

the  guides,  and  each  point  of  interest  brought  to  our 
notice,  we  went  over  the  enclosed  grounds  of  Hougou- 
mont,  which  position  to  the  British  was  the  key  of 
battle,  and  from  which  the  French  were  unable  to  drive 
out  the  Allies.  It  is  a  strong  point ;  the  house  is  built 
of  brick,  and  a  high  wall,  that  still  bears  the  marks  of 
conflict,  encloses  some  ten  or  fifteen  acres  of  ground. 
Hougoumont,  resisted  every  attack  made  on  it,  and  in 
one  assault,  the  French  lost  fifteen  hundred  men  in  a 
very  short  time.  This  battle  sent  Napoleon  into  exile, 
a  fugitive  from  power,  and  changed  the  condition  of 
nations,  yet  it  was  fought  with  only  about  seventy 
thousand  men  on  each  side,  in  some  of  our  battles 
more  than  double  that  number  were  engaged  and  they 
lasted  for  two  or  three  days.  In  endurance  we  excel 
the  Europeans  ;  they  seldom  fight  more  than  one  day  ; 
American  endurance  has  thus  taught  them  a  new  lesson 
in  the  art  and  practice  of  war.  I  was  greatly  pleased 
with  my  visit  to  Waterloo,  and  would  only  have  been 
too  glad  if  you  could  have  been  with  me,  and  have  seen 
it  at  the  same  time.  Some  day,  Will,  you  may  come 
yourself,  to  see  what  Mamma  and  I  are  enjoying  with 
so  much  satisfaction  now.  As  we  rode  out  to  the 
battlefield  I  could  look  over  extensive  fields  of  wheat, 
red  clover,  beets  and  flax ;  and  everywhere  we  saw 
the  evidence  of  thrift  and  industry.  The  wagons  and 
farm  utensils  are  like  those  we  have  at  home  ;  the 
houses  are  large  and  comfortable,  and  as  we  passed 
them,  we  could  see  that  they  were  neat,  and  that  the 
floors  of  many,  which  were  brick,  were  nicely  cleaned 
and  sanded.  These  people,  when  under  the  control  of 
Holland,  must  have  learned  the  neat  Dutch  habits ;  for 
they  are  not  only  industrious,  but  seem  to  have  a  great 
abhorence  of  dirt,  even  the  ground  outside  of  their 
houses  is  kept  tidy  and  well  swept.     I  would  rather 


Fit  <>  M      .1  B  /.'  OAD.  j  :i 

i 

live  in  Belgium  than  in  France,  for  here  the  evidem 
of  comforl  abound,  and  the  buildings  are  much  larger 
and  more  comfortable  than   those  of  the  French  peas- 
antry.    Every  one   thai  we  have   me1    was    well   and 

comfortably  clothed,  which  is  unlike  the    [rish  ] •. 

who  usually  go  ragged  and  barefooted,  but  the  Bel- 
gian ami  Frenchman  will  take  the  trouble  to  cu1  his 
shoe-  cut  of  wood  to  enable  him  to  walk  with  more 
comforl  ;  they  arc  clumsy  certainly,  but  much  better 
than    to   be   without   shoes  of  any  kind.     Yesterday, 

M and    I    attended    Bervice    in    the    old    chapel, 

attached  to  one  of  the  former  palaces  of  the  city, 
which,  at  a  later  period,  was  converted  into  a  Protes- 
tant chapel,  and  was  the  place  where  the  Captain- 
G-eneral  and  family  worshipped.  It  is  old,  bul  wrv 
pretty,  and  without  the  crosses  and  images  which 
abound  in  the  Catholic  churches  of  Europe.  Over 
the  little  pulpit,  which  still  remains,  is  inscribed  in 
Latin  the  text:  "God  is  a  Bpirit,  and  he  who  would 
worship  him,  must  worship  him  in  spirit  and  in 
truth.*'  and  on  each  side  of  it,  the  37th,  38th,  39th  and 
40th  verses  of  the  22d  chapter  of  Matthew  are  also 
placed,  and  like  the  one  over  the  pulpit,  were  in  Latin 
also.  Get  the  passage  in  your  Testament,  Will,  and 
see  what  I  refer  to.  I  ought  to  have  said  a1  the  first, 
thai  we  were  greatly  pleased  with  your  letter;  and 
hope  thai  it  will  not  be  the  last  one  we  shall  receive 
before  we  see  you  again.  1  have  tried  to  engage  pas- 
sage home  for  the  9th  of  October,  in  the  same  ship  in 
which  we  came  over.  We  had  intended  returning  in 
September,  bul  -Mamma  felt  so  fearful  lesl  the  equi- 
noetial  storm  would  not  be  over,  that  she  has  per- 
suaded me  to  postpone  it  until  October,  she  has  bo 
much  confidence  in  Captain  Brooks,  and  the  City  oi 
London,  that  she  felt  it  would    be  much  Bafer  to  _ 

o 


1%%  HOME     LETTERS. 

back  as  we  came.  The  agent  of  the  Inman  line  is  to 
write  to  me  at  Cologne,  and  let  me  know  whether  I 
can  get  a  comfortable  state-room  or  not ;  if  I  can,  you 
may  expect  us  back  the  19th  or  20th  of  that  month. 
We  start  this  morning  for  Antwerp;  from  there  we 
go  to  the  Hague,  thence  to  Amsterdam,  and  from  there 
across  Holland  to  the  Rhine;  up  the  Rhine  to  Frank- 
ford,  and  thence  across  into  Switzerland.  You  will 
thus  see  what  we  expect  to  do  in  the  days  that  are 
before  us,  intending  to  return  to  Paris  before  we  go 
to  England.  And  now,  Will,  my  dear  boy,  I  must  say 
for  the  present,  adieu.  If  Perrin  is  home,  kiss  him 
for  Papa,  and  tell  him  how  much  both  Mamma  and 
myself  would  like  to  see  him ;  and  how  often  we  think 
of  you  both,  and  also  of  all  the  dear  friends  at  home. 
Give  them  our  love.  I  hope  that  both  you  and  Perrin 
will  have  much  enjoyment  in  your  summer  excursions 
to  Brigantine  and  up  the  Hudson  River.  I  wish  I 
could  share  the  sea  bathing  with  you,  but  that  is  im- 
possible, for  when  I  get  back  summer  will  be  over,  and 
an  October  sea  bath  is  a  rather  shaky  affair. 

J.  A. 


Kt 


/■/,'  0  .1/       I  B  R  0  AD.  I  V, 


Antwerp,  Wednesday  Evening, 

July  SI,  1867. 

The  old  clock  of  the  Cathedral  of  Antwerp  has  just 

Struck  eight.      M audi  arc  together  in  our  room 

at  the  hotel,  Mr.  and   Mrs.  1) have   left   for  the 

Hague,  we  having  been  obliged  to  tarry,  to  give  M 

time  to  get  over  her  first  attack  of  neuralgia  sine'  we 
left  our  friends  behind  us  on  the  8th  of  June.  Yester- 
day, she  went  mit  shopping  among  the  lace  Btores  of 

Antwerp,  to  enable  Mrs.  I) to  execute  commissions 

for  friends  at  home,  and  to  make  some  purchases  for 
herself,  they  did  not  return  to  the  hotel  until  near  six 
o'clock,  our  hour  for  dinner.  We  had  breakfasted 
early,  and  during  all  the  interval  she  had  nothing  to 
eat ;  this,  with  the  fatigue,  broughl  on  her  old  torment, 
and  this  morning  found  her  suffering  very  much,  bo 
that  I  insisted  upon  her  not  trying  to  travel  to-day,  as 
we  had  intended,  expecting  to  leave  for  the  Hague  in 

the   half-past    ten    train,    a.    m.     M ,  who    is    now 

nearly  over  the  attack,  is  up  and  aboul  the  room,  put- 
ting her  things  in  order,  having  made  a  comfortable 
supper  on  tea,  bread  and  butter,  and  roast  chicken,  80 
you  see  how  soon  she  has  rallied.  If  she  had  not  over- 
taxed herself  yesterday,  she  would  have  escaped  alto- 
gether probably.  I  have  provided  a  lunch  basket,  ami 
am  provisioned  with  tea,  BUgar,  cracker-,  pickles, 
cheese,  and  Bologna  sausage,  to  guard  against  contin- 
gencies in  travel,  and  I  must  not  forget  to  mention  a 
little  tea-kettle  and  spirit  lamp,  with  which  we  have 
several  times  made  very  nice  tea.  I  hope  in  this  way 
to  keep  M from   nagging,  and  she  gets  on  very 


124-  HOME     LETTERS. 

well  indeed  if  she  can  only  get  nourishment  with  any 
degree  of  regularity. 

Antwerp  is  an  old  city,  of  very  irregular  construc- 
tion, the  streets  are  broad,  but  winding,  and  the  foot- 
ways so  narrow  that  half  the  people  walk  in  the  open 
streets  ;  the  entire  space  from  house  to  house  is  paved 
with  square  blocks  of  stone.  The  modern  houses  are 
after  the  style  of  Paris  ;  while  the  older  ones  are  of 
Dutch  and  Spanish  origin,  with  high  pointed  gables 
facing  the  street  and  very  narrow  ;  these  gables  taper 
to  the  top  like  a  succession  of  steps,  the  houses  being 
most  of  them  five  and  six  stories  high.  The  old 
Spanish  streets  have  a  very  singular  and  picturesque 
appearance  to  an  American ;  they  are  entirely  novel, 
and  bring  back  the  days  of  Spanish  domination  and 
cruelty  in  the  Netherlands  vividly  to  mind.  The 
palace  of  Charles  V.,  still  stands  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  fronting  the  old  Cathedral,  which  was  built  in  the 
13th  century,  and  is  noted  for  its  spire  of  great  eleva- 
tion and  remarkable  beauty  of  form  and  decoration. 
Napoleon  compared  it  to  Mechlin  lace  ;  and  Charles  V. 
said  of  it,  that  it  ought  to  be  kept  under  a  glass  case, 
to  preserve  it  from  decay,  but  it  is  now  undergoing  re- 
pair, time  having  made  sad  inroads  upon  its  beauty. 
Our  ride  from  Brussels  to  Antwerp,  which  occupied 
about  an  hour,  indicated  that  we  had  passed  into  a 
new  country,  unlike  that  through  which  in  my  letter 
to  Will,  I  remarked  was  more  like  home,  than  any  I 
had  seen,  especially  that  portion  around  Brussels ;  but 
here  we  are,  to  all  appearances,  on  the  "  Neck ; "  the 
land  is  low  and  flat,  and  the  whole  of  it  appears  to  be 
given  up  to  grazing.  It  would  be  easy  to  imagine  that 
we  are  upon  the  meadows  below  Philadelphia,  instead 
of  the  famous  low  lands  of  Flanders  and  the  Nether- 
lands.     One    accustomed    to    country    life    at   home, 


/•'/■'  0  i/     A  B  A'  0  A  D.  /.'.: 

would  be  forcibly  impressed  with  the  strong  resem- 
blance of  whal  he  sees  here,  with  thai  with  which  he 
has  been  familiar  in  America,  the  general  appearance 
of  the  city  excepted.  Antwerp  does  no1  impress  the 
stranger  with  the  idea  of  thrifl  or  commercial  enter- 
prise,  except  upon  its  river  front,  where  the  immense 
docks  constructed  by  Napole*on  [.,  and  the  greal  Dum- 
ber of  ships,  give  evidence  of  a  large  foreign  trade. 
I'.nt  the  heart  of  the  city  has  no  large  stores,  they  are 
mostly  shops,  small  and  not  attractive.  The  business 
carried  on  in  laces  and  fine  goods,  is  transacted  in  the 
lower  story  of  private  houses — which  are  kept  lucked, 
and  the  customer  cannot  gain  admittance  until  he  has 
rung  the  bell,  and  been  inspected  by  the  mirrors  which 
are  placed  at  the  story  above  outside,  and  by  which  it 
can  first  be  determined  whether  he  will  be  admitted  oi 
not.  This  singular  custom,  which  we  first  noticed  at 
Brussels,  had  its  origin,  I  imagine,  in  the  condition  of 
society  which  formerly  existed  in  this  country,  when 
the  war  of  races  was  most  tierce,  when  the  inquisition 
made  the  blood  of  Flanders  to  flow  in  torrents,  and 
that,  the  best  Protestant  blood  of  the  land.  Every 
man  had  to  be  on  the  watch  against  his  neighbor: 
to  betray  a  friend  to  death,  or  to  life-long  torments, 
under  the  rule  of  Charles  V.  and  Philip  II.,  was  accord- 
ing to  the  prevailing  ethics  in  religious  belief,  to  secure 
the  salvation  of  the  betrayer.  It  is  hard  to  realize  - 
you  walk  these  now  comparatively  quiet  streets,  that 
this  city  was  once  the  seat  of  military  and  commercial 
empire.  Its  glory  has  departed  and  from  being  at  one 
time  a  place  of  the  greatesl  importance,  it  has  dwindled 
away  so  as  to  be  of  very  small  account.  It  is.  however, 
still  famous  for  its  paintings  of  the  old  masters;  for 
Rubens  and  Vandyke  both  lived,  and  the  former  is 
buried  here.     His  works  in  large  numbers  arc  still  pre- 


126  HOME     LETTERS. 

served  in  the  city ;  and  those  that  are  world-renowned 
we  have  seen.  "  The  Elevation  of  Christ,"  nailed  to 
the  cross,  "  His  descent  from  the  Cross,"  and  "  His 
Crucifixion  between  the  two  thieves,"  are  among  the 
most  noted.  Altogether  we  have  examined  twenty  or 
more  of  his  pictures,  the  first  two  mentioned  are  in  the 
Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame,  and  the  last,  are  in  a  museum 
or  gallery  of  paintings  which  I  visited  this  morning, 
without  Maggie,  who  was  not  able  to  go  with  me.  "We 
went  together  yesterday  morning  to  visit  the  church  of 
St.  Jacques,  and  were  greatly  pleased  ;  it  is  far  more 
splendid  in  its  decorations  than  the  Cathedral.  Here 
Rubens  is  buried,  and  it  is  a  kind  of  Westminster 
Abbey  for  Antwerp.  The  principal  families  are  en- 
tombed-in  the  vaults  beneath  the  church,  the  greater 
part  of  its  floor  consisting  of  stone  flagging  on  which 
are  engraved  the  names  of  the  dead,  who  once  lived, 
and  in  their  sphere  ruled  and  reigned  in  this  city. 
There  are  two  marble  statues  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  John, 
that  are  exquisite  pieces  of  sculpture,  and  also  an  un- 
usually fine  group  in  stone,  of  "  the  elevation  of  the 
cross,"  after  our  Saviour  had  been  nailed  to  it.  Some 
of  the  window  decorations  are  most  beautiful  and  rich 
in  coloring,  and  I  suppose  there  is  no  city  in  Europe 
which  contains  so  many  of  the  noted  works  of  the  old 
masters  as  Antwerp.  Among  those  that  are  famous 
are  the  pictures  of  Quintin  Matsys,  who  was  a  black- 
smith ;  he  fell  in  love  with  the  daughter  of  a  painter, 
who  refused  to  allow  her  to  marry  any  one  but  an  artist. 
Matsys  threw  his  hammer  and  anvil  aside,  took  to 
brush  and  easel,  and  became  one  of  the  most  famous  of 
the  world's  artists ;  his  works  are  regarded  with  pride 
by  the  people  of  Antwerp.  Nearly  all  these  great 
works  of  art  are  delineations  of  events  in  the  life  of 
Christ ;  most  of  them  are  possessed  by  the  churches, 


FROM     All  110  AD.  /.'/ 

and  were  painted  for  them  by  Rubens.  Antwerp  has 
in.  covered  market;  the  huckster  women  ail  in  the 
middle  of  the  street  appropriated  to  them,  and  sell  pre- 
cisely the  same  kind  of  vegetables  thai  are  found  in 
our  market, — potatoes,  beets,  peas,  beans,  cauliflower, 
cherries,  carrots,  parsnips,  etc. ;  bu1  our  corn  was  want- 
ing. I  have  ii"t  seen  a  stalk  of  i1  since  I  saw  it  grow- 
ing la>t  \car  at  home.  "\Vc  have  noticed  a  few  peaches 
and   apricots  in  the  shop  windows,  which  were  very 

high  in  price.     There  are  very  peculiar  styles  of  dr< 

worn  by  the  women,  which  I   will  leave  for  M 's 

pen  to  describe  to  you.     All  the  poor  people  go  about 

the   streets    in    wooden   shoes;  and,  as  an  evidei of 

their  adherence  to  old  habits,  they  have  not  yet  in- 
vented any  way  of  fastening  them  to  the  feet.  They 
go  with  them  slip-shod,  and  you  can  hear  the  noise 
some  distance  off,  as  they  clap  and  clamp  on  the  stone 
pavement.  T  have  been  informed,  that  the  rich  use 
these  -hoes  in  winter,  hut  they  have  them  lined  and 
made  to  fit  comfortably  to  the  foot,  and  that  they  are 
preferred  to  any  other,  as  being  more  dry  and  warm. 
In  the  museum  I  saw  to-day  a  very  curious  sighl  ;  a 
painter,  without  arms,  sitting  on  a  chair  without  a 
hack,  holding  his  easel  with  the  toes  of  his  left  foot; 
while  with  the  right  foot  he  was  making  a  copy  of  One 
of  Ruben's  pictures:  He  appeared  to  paint  with  as 
much  ease  with  his  toes  as  those  around  him  painted 
with  their  hands,  and  seemed  to  be  very  skilful  in  the 
execution  of  his  work. 

I  received  but  three  of  Grandpa's  papers  before  leav- 
ing Paris;  many  of  them  must  have  miscarried,  though 
their  loss  is  supplied  by  finding  New  York  papers 
wherever  we  go.  The  Herald,  is  on  the  table  of  our 
present  stopping  place,  up  to  the  16th  of  J  uly,  and  the 
London  'lanes,  with  the  telegraph  hews  of  much  latter 


128  HOME     LETTERS. 

date  from  America.  On  Monday  morning,  I  was  cross- 
ing the  square,  in  Brussels,  in  front  of  our  hotel,  when 
a  man  accosted  me  in  English,  and  said :  "  Do  you  want 
to  buy  an  English  or  American  paper  ? "  and  handed 
me  the  New  York  Times  of  the  13th  of  July,  for  which 
he  asked  (and  Grandpa  will  say  I  was  foolish  enough 
to  give)  a  franc  and  a  half — thirty  cents.  One  must  be 
as  far  from  home  as  we  are,  to  understand  our  feelings 
in  relation  to  events  transpiring  there.  But  it  is  time 
for  me  to  lay  my  pen  aside,  and  get  ready  for  our  start 
to  Grandma's  land,  Holland,  how  I  wish  she  could  be 
with  us,  and  see  where  her  ancestors  came  from.  It  is 
morning,  the  Cathedral  clock  has  just  struck,  and  it 
strikes  the  quarter,  half,  and  three-quarters,  as  well  as 
the  full  hour.  It  plays  its  sweet  chimes,  as  it  has 
played  them  for  others  before  us,  for  hundreds  of  years, 
the  rich  and  the  poor,  the  feeble  and  the  mighty  of  the 
earth.  We  have  heard  it  for  the  last  time,  and  go 
hence,  but  the  old  time  piece  will  continue  to  strike  on 
the  ear  of  the  living,  telling  them  how  fast  time  flies, 
and  how  near  is  eternity. 

Farewell  to  Antwerp  forever. 

J.  A. 


r  11  <>  M     .1  /;  i;  0  A  D.  /  _■;, 


Mailed  at  ( 'ologm  . 
August  ■'.  1867. 

I  take  up  the  journal  at  the  date  thai  J closed 

his  letter,  mailed  at  Antwerp,  on  the  morning  of  the 
day  that  we  lefl  that  city,  (Thursday,  August  1st.)  At 
half  past  leu  a.  m.,  we  took  our  scats  in  the  train  for 
Holland,  and  our  valet  de  plact  accompanied  us  to  the 
cars,  looked  after  the  Luggage,  secured  our  tickets  and 
comfortable  seats  Torus.  The  country  through  which 
we  passed  to  reach  the  Belgian  frontier,  was  very  flat, 
an  almost  perfectly  level  surface,  that  reminded  us  of 
the  meadow  Lands  about  LVnrose  Ferry,  below  Philadel- 
phia. At  a  town  called  Roosendaal,  we  bad  the  annoy- 
ance of  a  Custom  Hou.-e  examination  of  baggage  again ; 
but  ?/v,  carrying  so  Little,  were  not  subjected  to  as 
much  trouble  ;i-  many  others.  After  the  investigation, 
our  attention  was  attracted  to  a  crowd  of  people  col- 
lected in  and  about  the  dep6t,  who  were  evidently  on 
the  lookout  for  some  distinguished  person,  upon  whom 
they  wished  to  confer  honor.  Directly  we  heard 
music — tunes  that  were  no1  familiar  to  our  car-,  one. 
two,  three;  then  came  the  old  national  air  of  "Hail 
Columbia" — what  did  it  all  mean?  We  could  not 
tell, but  we  cheered  vociferously, and  waived  our  hand- 
kerchiefs  to  the  imaginary  hero,  whoever  he  might 
be.  After-investigation  proclaimed  him  a  worthy 
man,  the  leader  of  a  celebrated  Prussian  band,  who  had 
been  up  to  the  Paris  Exposition,  and,  having  received 
from  Louis  Napoleon  a  decoration  of  honor,  was  qow 
on  his  ret  urn  home.  At  a  place  called  Moerdijk,  we 
took  boat  for  Rotterdam,  a  ride  of  two  hour-,  in  a  cold, 


ISO  HOME     LETTERS. 

chilly,  moist  atmosphere,  more  like  a  November  day 
than  the  beginning  of  August.  Dinner  was  provided 
for  those  who  chose  to  partake  of  it  on  this  boat ;  but 
it  was  such  a  dirty  little  craft,  we  preferred  to  eat 
our  own  lunch,  that  we  had  prepared  before  leaving 
Antwerp.  Our  worthy  train-band  Captain  sat  in  front 
of  us  on  a  camp-stool,  eating  his  salt  fish  and  bread, 
as  if  he  were  a  hungry,  rather  than  a  distinguished 
individual,  with  his  decoration  carefully  pinned  on 
the  breast  of  his  coat.  His  men  were  orderly,  and 
well-behaved,  and  we  were  very  much  amused  in 
watching  to  see  how  carefully  they  brushed  their 
clothes,  burnished  up  the  ornaments  on  their  caps, 
going  over  and  over  the  articles  a  half  dozen  times,  so 
that  not  the  least  speck  of  dust  should  remain,  and 
after  all  that  care,  submitting  themselves  to  each  other 
for  final  inspection.  All  this  preparation  was  in 
anticipation  of  their  arrival  at  the  Hague,  where  an 
immense  crowd  awaited  them  at  the  depot.  They 
were  escorted  to  the  town  hall,  congratulatory  speeches 
were  made,  and  a  dinner  given  in  their  honor.  At 
Rotterdam  we  left  the  boat  to  take  cars  for  the  Hague, 
where  we  expected  to  join  Mr.  and  Mrs  D ,  suppo- 
sing that  they  would  meet  us  at  the  depot ;  and  they 
only  failed  to  keep  their  pledge,  because  they  were  so 
unfortunate  as  to  have  hired  a  stumbling  horse,  that 
fell  down  when  they  had  made  half  the  distance,  and 
broke  the  shafts  of  their  carriage :  however,  "  all's  well 
that  ends  well !"  they  had  secured  for  us  a  comfortable 
room  at  the  Hotel  Paulez,  where,  after  a  good  bath  and 
a  palatable  dinner,  we  felt  quite  refreshed,  and  ready 
to  accept  their  invitation  to  ride.  The  Hague  is  a 
beautiful  city,  situated  three  miles  from  the  shore  of 
the  German  Ocean,  and  is  one  of  the  best  built  cities 
in  Europe.     The  streets  are  wide  and  paved  with  brick; 


FROM     A  J  J  li  0  A  I).  /.;/ 

the  dwellings  large  and  some  of  them  very  elegant  on 
the  principal  streets,  indicating  the  wealth  of  the 
proprietors;  bu1  al  this  season  of  the  year  they  have  a 
shut-up,  dismal  lock;  the  aristocratic  portion  of  the 
population  are  ou1  of  town.  This  city  is  the  9ea1  of 
government  and  of  the  supreme  court  of  justice,  and 
the  King  resides  here.  The  Queen  and  himself,  for 
Borne  domestic  reason,  do  not  live  together;  her  palace 
is  two  miles  out  of  the  citv,  and  is  called  "T  Euis  in't 
Bosch,"  or  House  in  the  "Woods.  The  king  visits  her 
once  a  year,  and  her  residence  is  reached  by  a  fine 
macadamized  road,  lined  with  elegant  mansions,  and 
rows  of  trees;  it  stands  in  the  centre  of  a  park  embel- 
lished with  artificial  lakes  and  lovely  gardens.  Ex- 
ternally, it  is  of  an  unpretending  character,  but  within 
it  is  said  to  be  very  luxurious  in  its  appointments. 
The  park  is  marly  two  miles  long;  the  forest  treea  are 
large,  and  the  -hade  so  dense,  that  it  lias  a  dull  and 
gloomy  appearance.  In  passing  through  one  of  the 
principal  avenues  near  the  city,  on  which  the  caf  3, 
private  club-houses,  and  public  beer  gardens  are 
sit  iiated,  we  came  unexpectedly  upon  a  crowd  of  people 
with  carriages  in  waiting.  The  curiosity  of  our  gentle- 
men was  aroused  in  an  instant,  and  nothing  would 
satisfy  thou  hut  a  voyage  of  discovery.  So  they  voted 
themselves  a  committee  of  two,  and  started  off  to  investi- 
gate; Mrs.  1) and  myself  retaining  our  seats  in  the 

carriage.     After  an   interval  of  twenty   minutes   they 

came  hack   quite  as  wise  as   they  started.      Mr.  1) 

said    there    \va>   "no    admittance,   and    they    could    not 

understand  the  Dutch."  When  we  reached  the  hotel, 
we  were  thoroughly  chilled  by  the  damp  atmosphere, 
and  ordered  tea  in  our  own  room.  Then  came  another 
new  experience,  they  brought  to  us  a  copper  tea-kettle, 
filled  with  boiling  water,  a  shallow  scuttle,  containing 


132  HOME     LETTERS. 

ignited  coals,  and  on  a  waiter  a  small  canister  of  tea, 
delicate  china  cups  and  plates,  bread  with  little  pats  ot 
butter  made  ont  in  the  shape  of  ring-jumbles.  The 
whole  arrangement  was  a  novelty,  and  as  we  made  our 
tea  it  was  "just  right  to  a  T." 

Friday  Morning,  August  2.     We  were  detained  until 
a  late  hour  by  Baron  Makey.     The  visit  was  intended" 

for  Mr.  D ;  but  we  all  enjoyed  his  pleasant  call  and 

agreeable  conversation,  after  which  he  kindly  proffered 

to  escort  J and  Mr.  D to  the  Courts  of  Justice, 

while  Mrs.  D and  myself  started  off  independently 

to  hunt  up  the  shops,  and  the  oddities  of  the  town. 
A  walk  of  three  squares  brought  us  into  the  centre  ot 
business  life.  A  number  of  ladies  (whether  native  or 
foreign  I  cannot  say)  were  dressed  just  as  we  were, 
with  very  slight  differences ;  but  the  common  people, 
the  women  particularly,  wear  the  queerest  and  most 
peculiar  headgear  in  the  shape  of  bonnets  and  orna- 
ments, that  we  ever  saw.  The  fishmonger's  style  was 
a  hat  something  like  a  coal  scuttle,  and  others  like 
immense  market  baskets  turned  upside  down,  with 
twisted  cork-screw  like  ornaments  fastened  round  the 
head,  and  standing  out  above  the  ears  like  branch 
candlesticks.  Others  again  wore  a  sort  of  scull-cap, 
fitting  the  head  closely,  and  made  of  gold,  as  we  were 
informed,  although  our  impression  was  that  they  were 
made  of  a  less  expensive  metal.  The  dress  was  a  short- 
gown  and  petticoat  of  some  gay  contrasting  color, 
and  the  horrid  big  clumsy  wooden  shoes,  were  worn 
by  both  men  and  women.  The  fishermen  'convey 
their  fish  to  market  in  small  carts,  drawn  by  dogs,  the 
dogs  placed  three  abreast ;  and  if  the  load  is  heavy  a 
fourth  is  attached  by  a  trace  to  the  side.  They  were 
strong  limbed,  vigorous-looking  animals,   that  pulled 


/ 


//,'  o  .1/     .1  /.'  /.'  OA  l> .  /.;.; 

with  a  will;   bu1   it  made  me  feel  sorry  to  see  them 
overworked,  as  many  of  them  were,  receiving  blows 

instead  of  k i 1 1 < 1 1 1 •  —  as  an  equivalent  for  their  labor. 
And  tliis  suggested  the  query,  whal  do  the  women  oi 
Holland  gel  in  return  for  their  servitude?  In  passing 
through  Rotterdam,  riding  along  one  of  the  canals,  we 
saw  two  women  engaged  in  unloading  a  boat:  one 
standing  in  the  vessel  pitching  out  bricks  to  the  other 
in  the  street;  and  a  third  sitting  down  chipping 
mortar  from  a  pile  of  old  bricks.  So  far  as  we  have 
observed,  they  perform  the  same  labor  as  the  mi 
The  chief  attraction  at  the  Bague  is  a  collection  of 
paintings  by  the  Dutch  masters,  in  the  National 
Museum,  and  the  most  celebrated  painting  is  the 
"Young  Bull,"  by  Paul  rotter,  a  picture  which  occu- 
pies nearly  the  whole  side  <>l'  one  of  the  large  rooms. 
This  highly  prized  work  of  art,  which  the  hutch 
government  offered  Napole'on  one  hundred  thousand 
dollars  if  he  would  allow  it  to  remain  at  the  Bague, 
was  carried  off  to  Paris  by  his  order,  and  hung  up  in 
the  Louvre:  when1  it  was  considered  the  fourth  in 
value  in  that  collection,  which  is  the  largest  in  the 
world.  The  picture  represents  a  young  bull,  with 
white  and  brown  spots,  a  cow  reclining  in  the  green 
grass  before  it.  two  or  three  sheep,  and  an  aged  cow- 
herd leaning  over  a  fence:  and  the  figures  are  all  life- 
size,  and  unlike  most  large  pictures,  everything  will 
hear  the  closest  inspection.  It  is  valued  at  twenty-five 
thousand  dollar-. 

At  three  o'clock  we  had  a  lunch  in  our  room,  making 
our  tea  as  on  the  night  before,  and  quite  to  our  taste. 
We  have  been  surprised  to  have  very  poor  bread  fur- 
nished ua  at  this  hotel — we  had  supposed  that  of  all 
countries  this  Dutch  land  would  excel  in  this  particu- 
lar.     At    breakfast    we   thought    to    vary  the    hill    .it' 


1S£  HOME     LETTERS. 

fare  by  calling  for  warm  cakes,  but  the  waiter  could 
not  be  made  to  understand  what  we  wished,  and  mine 
host,  Paulez,  had  to  be  called,  to  whom  we  gave  the 
receipt.  Of  course  he  knew  without  being  told,  so  he 
said,  and  bustled  off  to  have  them  prepared.  The 
making  was  a  slow  process,  it  occupied  a  full  half 
hour;  and  when  our  patience  was  nearly  exhausted 
they  were  brought  in,  made  according  to  order,  and 
really  very  nice.  Passing  a  glazed  door  looking  out 
into  the  yard  I  saw  Mynheer  Paulez,  directing  a  man 
how  to  skin  eels,  and  I  could  not  resist  the  impulse  to 
go  out  and  ask  him  if  there  was  not  a  less  cruel  pro- 
cess. With  one  hand  he  held  the  head,  and  with  the 
other  he  tore  from  the  quivering  flesh  the  entire  length 
of  skin  from  head  to  tail. 

At  a  quarter  past  four  p.  m.  we  were  on  our  way  to 
Amsterdam,  (thirty-two  miles  from  the  Hague,)  passing 
through  Leiden,  where  we  felt  a  very  strong  inclina- 
tion to  stop,  but  concluded  to  go  on  to  the  larger  city. 
"Leiden  has  a  population  of  37,000,  is  situated  on  the 
Rhine,  and  is  celebrated  for  its  University."  At  six 
o'clock  we  arrived  at  Amsterdam,  or  rather  at  the 
depot,  which  is  outside  the  city  some  distance  and  a 
long  way  from  "  Brack's  Doelen  Hotel,"  where  we  had 
been  advised  to  stop ;  and  for  accepting  the  suggestion 
we  afterwards  repented.  When  I  say  that  the  house 
has  been  kept  as  a  hotel  for  two  hundred  and  fifty 
years,  you  will  know  that  it  is  old  enough  to  be  some- 
what out  of  condition.  We  were  to  have  a  choice  ot 
rooms,  two  to  select  between,  and  the  first  chamber  into 
which  we  were  ushered  was  immensely  large,  bare, 
musty  and  mildewy  looking.  We  saw  no  arrange- 
ments for  sleeping  and  our  conclusion  was  that  we  had 
misunderstood  our  attendant  in  saying  that  it  was  a 
bed-room,  and  that  the  screen  that  divided  it  was  in- 


r  n  o  m    a  b  S  OA  i> .  /.?.: 

tended  to  give  greater  privacy  to  persons  who  wished 
to  lunch  unobserved.  This  delusion  was  soon  dissolved, 
for  upon  closer  inspection  we  saw  two  box-like  beds 
and  other  conveniences  for  the  toilet.  NTone  of  the 
party  liked  the  accommodations,  and  we  said  so.  Myn- 
heer Brack  responded,  very  independently,  "do  as  you 
please,  you  will  probably  gel  no  better  elsewhere." 
That  may  be  so.  we  will  be  satisfied.     Mr.  and  Mrs. 

D will  have  this  spacious  room.    ""Where  Bhall  we 

go?"  J said.     In  a  smaller  one  acro.-s  the  hall  we 

settled  down  in  a  dingy,  murky  atmosphere,  glad  that 

it  was  only  for  a  night.     Mr.  D vowed   he  would 

enliven  his  thoughts  by  dreaming  about  //,,  bride,who 
was  the  principal  figure  introduced  in  the  marriage 
procession  that  illustrated  tin-  screen.  At  supper  we 
had  the  same  tea  arrangements,  hut  no  peculiarities  of 
cookiiur,  only  little  pickled  herring  were  offered  as  a 
luxury. 

Satunhn/  M<»'ih»g,  August  3.  Up  at  eight  o'clock. 
and  looking  across  the  street  from  my  window,  I  Bee 
the  office  of  an  "Advocat."  In  the  street  ;i  woman 
drawing  a  heavy  load  of  wood  with  ropes  attached  to 
the  cart  and  joined  to  a  hand  <>f  Leather  that  passes 
across  her  forehead,  it  requires  all  her  strength  to  drag 
it  along;  and  it  is  not  a  pleasant  Bight.  We  have  de- 
termined to  abandon  our  first  intention  of  spending  the 
Sabbath  here.  Our  worthy  host  has  advised  as  not  to 
remain  Long  at  this  season  of  the  year,  a-  contagious 
fever- make  it  unsafe;  bo  we  have  Becured  the  servi< 
of  a  trusty  valet  </<  j>?ace,  ("  Bolander,")  who  i-  to  Bhow 
as  what  may  he  of  interest  to  strangers,  in  the  city. 
"Amsterdam"  is  derived  from  to  "dam"'  the  river 
••  Amstel,"  which  runs  through  the  city  and  divide-  it 
into  two  nearly  equal  parts,  and  "  it  has  260,000  inhabi- 


136  HOME     LETTERS. 

tants  of  whom  35,000  are  Jews.  Its  ground  plan  has 
somewhat  the  shape  of  a  half  bent  bow ;  the  straight  line, 
representing  the  string,  rests  on  an  arm  of  the  Zuider 
Zee,  which  in  front  of  Amsterdam  is  from  eight  to  nine 
fathoms  in  depth.  Its  walls  are  surrounded  by  a  semi- 
circular canal,  and  within  the  city  are  four  other  great 
canals,  all  running  in  curves,  parallel  with  the  outer 
one.  They  are  called  Prinsen  Gracht,  Keizer's  Gracht, 
Heeren  Gracht,  and  Singel,  the  last  being  the  innermost. 
The  Keizer's  Gracht  is  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  wide." 
They  are  lined  with  handsome  houses,  and  the  buildings 
compare  favorably  with  those  of  the  Hague  or  Brussels. 
"  The  various  small  canals  which  intersect  the  town  in 
all  directions  divide  it  into  ninety  islands,  and  are 
traversed  by  two  hundred  and  fifty  bridges,  partly 
wood  and  partly  stone.  The  whole  city,  however, 
wharves,  streets,  houses  and  canals,  are  built  on  piles 
driven  into  the  ground.  The  mouths  of  the  canals, 
which  open  into  the  sea  and  river,  are  provided  with 
strong  flood-gates,  and  a  dyke  is  erected  upon  the  side 
of  the  town  nearest  the  sea  to  guard  against  the  chance 
of  inundations.  The  constant  attention,  which  a 
Dutchman  has  been  obliged  to  give  to  maintaining; 
in  perfect  order  the  works  on  which  his  safety  depends, 
has  given  a  formal  and  methodical  direction  to  his 
tastes  in  cases  where  nature  would  have  been  better 
left  to  herself.  The  trees  are  often  found  o-rowino;  not 
in  a  natural  way,  but  as  they  have  been  arranged  in 
straight  rows  and  long  avenues,  their  branches  cut  and 
clipped,  until  they  are  transformed  into  green  walls. 
In  every  way  the  laws  of  nature  seem  to  be  reversed, 
for  what  elsewhere  would  be  considered  impossible  has 
been  carried  into  effect.  "The  house  built  upon  the 
sand,"  may  be  seen  here,  standing,  as  neither  Amster- 
dam  nor  Rotterdam  has   any  better  foundation  than 


/•'  S  0  M     -1  /-'  8  0  A  D  . 

3and.  Windmills  are  bo  numerous  (nine  thousand  or 
more  in  Eolland)  thai  they  may  be  said  to  be  never  out 
of  sight  in  a  Dutch  landscape. 

In  the  Buburbs  of  the  cities  they  are  congregated 
like  armies  of  giants,  spreading  ou1  their  immensely 
broad  arms,  as  if  to  proted  the  streets  and  houses 
which  they  overlook.  They  arc  employed  almosl  as 
variously  as  the  steam  engine  with  as;  they  saw  tim- 
ber, crush  send  lop  oil,  grind  flour  and  snuff,  beal  hemp, 
and  drain  the  land.  At  least  one-half  of  them  have 
water-wheels  attached  to  them,  which  act  as  pumps, 
and  by  constantly  raising  the  water  into  the  canals 
above,  keep  the  low  land  dry  and  fit  for  cultivation. 
The  canals  are  the  public  highways  of  the  country,  an- 
swering the  same  purpose  as  our  roads,  thorough  tares 
for  the  people,  and  for  the  conveyance  of  all  kind-  of 
merchandise  and  provision  from  one  locality  to  another. 
People  make  use  of  boats  in  moving  household  furni- 
ture, instead  of  wagons ;  and  we  observed  thai  mosl  of 
the  dwellings  had  an  arrangement  for  hoisting  or  lower- 
ing goods,  placed  just  below  the  roof,  and  concealed 
by  the  ornamental  finish  of  the  cornice.  A  large 
class  of  the  population  live  constantly  upon  the 
canals,  making  their  vessels  their  homes.  Some  of 
these  vessels  are  of  great  length,  but  generally  narrow, 
suitable  to  the  canals  of  the  town.  "This  mode  of  liv- 
ing, is  a  good  example  of  Dutch  industry  and  thrift.  A 
man  marries,  he  and  his  wife  possess  or  purchase  a  small 
boat.  They  live  and  cook  on  hoard,  move  about,  and 
carry  articles  to  and  from  market.  Their  children  are 
born  or  at  least  nursed  on  the  vessel,  the  wife  mends 
and  makes  all  the  family  clothes,  and  assists  in  navi- 
gating the  craft,  especially  in  steering;  when  you  may 
at  the  same  time  observe  the  husband  with  a  rope 
over  his  shoulder,  dragging  the  boat  along,  when  the 

10 


13S  HOME     LETTERS. 

wind  is  unfavorable.  Their  cabins  display  the  same 
neatness  as  the  parlors  of  their  countrymen  on  shore. 
Many  of  them  have  little  gardens  of  tulips,  hyacinths, 
roses,  and  various  other  flowers."  One  of  the  pecu- 
liarities of  Holland,  is  the  sort  of  veneration  in  which 
the  stork  is  held  by  the  peasant  inhabitants.  "  These 
birds  are  not  only  never  injured  or  disturbed,  but  a 
cart-wheel,  or  some  other  contrivance,  is  often  placed 
on  the  house-top  for  their  use  ;  if  not  expressly  to 
invite  them  to  settle,  at  least  to  prevent  them  becom- 
ing a  nuisance ;  since  otherwise,  the  bird,  attracted 
by  the  warmth  of  the  fire,  would  naturally  deposit  the 
material  of  its  nest  in  the  chimney  top  itself,  so  as  to 
stop  it  up,  and  dirty  the  house,  which  the  owner  pre- 
vents by  a  stand  or  rest,  so  placed  as  to  allow  the 
smoke  to  escape  from  beneath  it.  Their  huge  nests 
may  be  seen  perched  on  the  roofs  of  farm  houses,  and 
even  in  towns,  on  the  edge  of  a  gable  or  near  a  chim- 
ney. It  is  considered  a  good  omen  to  a  dwelling  and 
its  inmates  if  the  stork  selects  it  for  its  habitation  ; 
and  to  kill  one,  is  looked  upon  in  hardly  any  other 
light  than  a  crime."  We  met  on  the  street  a  man 
dressed  in  black,  wearing  a  cocked  hat,  and  wig,  a  long 
crape  hat-band,  and  a  short  cloak ;  our  valet  said  he 
was  called  "  The  Aunsprecker,"  undertaker,  and  that 
his  duty  was,  on  the  death  of  any  one,  to  notify  the 
friends  and  connections  of  the  event.  To  announce 
that  sickness  is  in  a  house,  the  bell  is  not  tied  up,  as 
with  us,  but  a  paper  is  stuck  upon  the  door,  contain- 
ing the  daily  bulletin  of  the  invalid's  health,  drawn 
up  by  the  doctor,  which  prevents  the  necessity  of  ring- 
ing, and  the  chance  of  disturbing  the  sick  person,  when 
friends  come  to  inquire  after  him.  "In  two  of  the 
towns  of  Holland,  Haarlem  and  Enchhuysen,  when  a 
lady  is  sick  after  the   birth   of  a   child,  a   silk   pin- 


FROM     ABROAD.  ].,;, 

cushion,  covered  and  fringed  with  pointed  lace,  is 
exposed  a1  the  door.  The  sex  of  the  infanl  is  marked 
by  the  color;  it'  a  boy,  red — if  a  girl,  white.    Th<-  house, 

which  shows  in  this  manner  thai  the  number  of  its 
occupants  has  been  increased  by  a  birth,  enjoys  by 
ancient  law  and  custom  various  immunities  and  privi- 
leges for  a  certain  number  of  days;  nothing  which  is 
likely  to  disturb  the  sick  is  allowed  to  approach  it. 
and  it  is  protected  from  legal  executions;  no  bailiff 
dares  to  molest  its  inmates,  and  when  troops  pass  it 
on  the  march  the  drums  cease  to  beat.*'  The  little 
mirrors  we  saw  projecting  from  almost  all  the  houses, 
and  rude  busts  of  Turks'  or  Moors'  head-  in  front  of 
the  drug  shops,  with  their  open  mouths,  were  called 
"  Gapers ;"  but  what  they  were  intended  to  signify,  we 
could  not  guess,  unless  it  was  to  illustrate  how  children 
should  distend  their  mouths  in  swallowing  medicine. 
The  churches  of  Amsterdam  are  in  themselves  barren 
of  interest,  and  make  no  pretensions  to  architectural 
beauty,  and  the  sermons  to  be  preached  on  Sundays  are 
announced  beforehand  in  placards,  like  show-bills  with 
us.  The  congregation  sit  during  the  sermon  with 
their  hats  on  or  off,  as  they  please.  The  Jews  form 
a  large  part  of  the  population,  and  reside  in  a  particular 
quarter  of  the  city,  and  they  have  four  Bynagogues. 
We  met  large  numbers  of  them  on  the  streets, — men. 
women  and  children, — going,  as  we  supposed,  to  their 
places  of  worship,  as  this  was  Saturday,  their  Sabbath  ; 
and  for  this  reason  we  were  disappointed  in  failing  to 
gain  access  to  any  of  the  diamond  mills,  which  are  al- 
most exclusively  the  property  of  Jews,  and  consequently 
are  closed  on  Saturday,  but  not  on  Sunday.  Amster- 
dam is  celebrated  for  the  number  of  it-  charitable 
establishments;  it  has  no  less  than  twenty-three  insti- 
tutions of  benevolence,  including  hospitals  for  the  aged 


1^0  HOME     LETTERS. 

and  infirm,  the  insane,  orphans  and  widows ;  some  of 
them  attached  to  the  churches  of  particular  denomina- 
tions, others  open  to  all  sects  without  distinction.     The 
hospital  for  Protestant  old  men  and  women  looked  more 
like  a  palace  than  lodgings  for  poor  people.      "We  ex- 
tended  our   ride   to   that  part  of  the  city  facing  the 
Zuyder  Zee,  passing  over  the  immensely  broad  dyke, 
built  so  wide  and  strong  as  seemingly  to  bid  defiance 
to  the  inundations  of  the  ocean  at  high  tide,  but  I  have 
not  the  time  to  describe  its  construction  ;  as  it  is  deter- 
mined that  we  leave  for  Cologne  at  half-past  two  p.  m. 
J 's  inclination  and  my  own,  would  prompt  the  de- 
cision to  go  farther  north,  into  some  of  the  provinces  of 
this  peculiar  country,  where  the  inhabitants,  living  re- 
moved from  intercourse  with  strangers,  retain  more  of 
the  old  customs,  habits,  and  dress  of  their  forefathers, 
than  in  South  Holland.     The  women  in  the  north  are 
said  to  have  beautifully  clear  complexions,  and  to  be 
distinguished   for   the   neatness  of  their  dress.     They 
wear  on  the  back  of  the  head  a  broad  fillet  of  gold, 
shaped  like  a  horse  shoe,  which  confines  the  short  cut 
hair,  and  terminates  on  each  side  of  the  temple  in  two 
rosettes,  also  of  pure   gold,  suspended  somewhat   like 
blinkers  before   the   eyes   of  a   horse,  over   which   is 
worn  a  cap  or  veil  of  the  finest  and  richest  lace,  with 
lappets  hanging  down  the  neck,  and  a  pair  of  enormous 
gold  ear-rings     These  ornaments  are  often  of  real  gold, 
even  among  the  lower  classes,  and  the  cost  must  be 
considerable,  for  great  sacrifices  are  made  to  purchase 
them,  and  they  are  considered  heir-looms  in  a  family. 
If  to-morrow  were  not  the  Sabbath  day,  we  would  at 
least  remain  one  day  over,  to  visit  a  noted  little  town 
called  Broek,  that  is  only  two  hours  distant,  partly  by 
boat  and  partly  by  carriage,  and  I  will  give  you  the 
description  that  has  excited  our  curiosity.     "  There  is 


/•'  E  <>  M   A  B  B  0  Ah.  / ;  / 

ncit  her  horse  nor  cart  road  through  the  place,  bo  we  were 
obliged  to  leave  our  carriage  at  a  small  inn,  on  the  out- 
skirts, and  to  walkthrough  it.  A  notice  on  a  board 
warn-  si  rangers  that  they  are  not  to  smoke  in  the  village 
without  a  Btopper  on  their  pipe,  or  to  ride  through  it. 
but  must  dismount  and  lead  their  horses  at  a  fool  pace. 
The  little  narrow  lanes,  or  passages,  which  intersect  it. 
are  paved  with  bricks  or  little  stones,  se1  in  patterns. 
The  houses  are  mostly  of  wood,  painted  white  and 
green.  Almost  all  the  houses  glitter  in  the  sun.  with 
roofs  of  glazed  tiles  of  differenl  colors.  Those  occu- 
pied by  the  poorer  classes,  are  usually  only  on,,  story  ; 
those  of  the  rich,  are,  for  the  most  part,  of  the  style 
which  has  been  appropriately  called 'the  florid  cock- 
ney,'— something  between  Grecian  and  Chinese.  One 
has  a  pasteboarddooking  front,  intended  to  represent  a 
temple,  another  is  painted  with  such  various  colors 
as  to  call  to  mind  the  scenery  of  a  theatre.  Many  oi 
them  are  placed  at  the  edge  of  canals,  and  arc  ap- 
proached by  bridges.  Yet  Broek  has  an  inanimate 
and  listless  appearance,  owing  to  the  custom  of 
keeping  the  front  door  and  windows  always  closed, 
save  for  the  entrance  of  the  bridal  pair  after  mar- 
riage, and  for  the  exit  of  a  corpse  for  burial.  1 
fore  almost  every  house  in  the  place  we  had  remarked 
a  collection  of  shoes  and  sabots,  for  the  inmal  - 
usually  put  them  off'  at  the  door,  like  the  Turks,  and 
walk  through  the  house  in  slippers  or  Btockings.  The 
closed  door,  in  every  house,  mentioned  above.  Leads 
to  an  apartment  which  is  rarely  entered  or  opened, 
save  by  the  housewife  herself,  who  once  a  week 
unfastens  the  shutters,  takes  down  all  the  china, 
dusts  it,  and  scrub-  the  furniture,  and  after  scouring 
the  floor  and  walls,  and  polishing  the  stones,  c  -  - 
up   the  door  and   shutters  again,  until  the  revolvii  _ 


ljf.2  HOME     LETTERS. 

week  brings  round  another  day  of  purification." 
Spiders  must  stand  a  worse  chance  here  than  in  any 
other  country  of  the  globe ;  the  forlorn  attempt  of  a 
poor  solitary  spinner  to  establish  himself  in  the  corner 
of  a  window,  to  which  elsewhere  he  might  be  supposed 
to  have  a  right,  is  immediately  detected  and  scattered 
to  the  wind.  To  sum  up  all,  to  such  an  extent  do 
paradoxes  prevail  in  Holland,  that  even  "  the  cow's  tails, 
in  other  countries  proverbial  for  growing  downwards, 
and  descending  in  the  world  as  they  advance  in  age, 
here  grow  upwards ;  for,  with  a  view  of  promoting 
the  cleanliness  of  the  animal  while  in  the  stall,  the 
tail  is  tied  up  to  a  ring  in  the  roof  of  the  stable." 

Sabbath  Day,  August  4-  Here  we  are,  another  stage 
in  Our  journey  accomplished,  at  the  "  Hotel  du  ]STord,' ' 
in  Cologne.  We  bade  adieu  to  "  Dutchland  "  yesterday 
and  arrived  here  at  10  p.  m.  Our  journey  had  no  inci- 
dents worth  recording,  unless  it  be  to  mention  that 
when  we  entered  the  town  of  Emmerich  on  the  Prus- 
sian frontier,  we  were  subjected  to  the  annoyance  of 
having  our  baggage  overhauled  again,  and  to  the  vexa- 
tious necessity  of  changing  our  Holland  coin  for  Prus- 
sian thalers  and  silver  groschens.  We  passed  on  the 
outskirts  of  Dusseldorf,  famous  only  for  having  pos- 
sessed years  ago,  a  very  fine  collection  of  paintings, 
known  as  the  Munich  Gallery. 

Our  apartments  here  are  more  pleasant  and  more 
luxuriously  furnished  than  any  that  we  have  occupied 
since  we  left  home,  and  I  feel  as  if  I  could  enjoy  a 
week's  rest  with  these  surroundings,  with  the  greatest 
comfort,  for  I  am  very  weary  and  have  not  been  out. 

J was  at  church  this  morning,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

D were  at  Cathedral  service,  and  on  their  return 

met  the  Forneys,  and   have   now  gone  to  dine  with 


/•  R  <>   \f      A  B  R  0  A  I > 


/;.; 


them  at  the  Hdtel  de  Bellevue,  on  the  opposite  Bide  of 
the  Rhino,  at  a  town  called  "  I  >eutz."  J and  I  de- 
clined the  invitation,  preferring  a  quiel  dinner  alone, 
as  our  appetites  were  small,  having  breakfasted  as  late 

as  ten  o'clock.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bancroft  sat  at  the  table 
just  opposite  to  us.  He  is  a  much  older  man  than  I 
had  supposed,  and  in  appearance  is  not  unlike  Mr. 
Barnes.     I  am   writing    at   a    centre-table,   beside  a 

beautifully  ornamented  bookcase;  and  two  front  win- 
dows looking  out  into  the  street,  arc  draped  in  crimson 
damask  with  white  lace  curtains  between.  The  cover- 
ings above  the  two  beds  are  of  the  same  material  ; 
the  pillows  so  large  they  encroach  nearly  half  way 
down;  and  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  lie  at  full  length, 
or  assume  any  other  than  a  half  sitting  posture.  In 
addition  to  the  blankets,  we  are  supplied  with  a  light, 
puffy  feather  bed,  which  is  intended  more  especially  to 
keep  the  feet  warm ;  but  to  enjoy  it  one  would  need  to 
be  a  very  quiet  sleeper.  M.  0.  A. 


>* 


m  HOME     LETTERS. 


August  5,  1867. 
Dear  Perrin  : 

Just  one  week  ago  to-day,  I  wrote  and  mailed  a  letter 
to  Will  from  Brussels,  which  is  a  beautiful  city,  not  so 
large  as  Paris,  (where  Mamma  and  I  staid  so  long,)  and 
not  near  so  large  as  Philadelphia.  And  as  we  are  now 
in  a  city  which  belongs  to  another  kingdom,  I  thought 
I  would  write  a  letter  to  my  dear  little  Perrin,  from 
this  place,  Cologne.  You  must  get  "Will  to  show  you 
where  it  is  on  the  map,  and  then  you  will  remember 
when  you  study  geography,  by  the  letter  which  Papa 
wrote  to  his  little  boy  in  America,  where  this  old  city 
of  Cologne  is ;  and  when  you  are  large  enough  to  read 
history,  and  learn  what  an  ancient  place  it  is,  and  how 
important  a  position  it  has  at  different  times  held  in 
the  world's  history,  you  will  be  greatly  interested  in 
learning  all  you  can  about  it.  But  it  may  be,  that 
when  you  have  read  all  that  books  can  tell  you  of 
Cologne,  that  the  most  pleasant  of  all  your  thoughts  in 
association  with  it  will  be,  that  Papa  when  there  wrote 
a  letter  to  you  from  the  very  heart  of  the  old  city,  and 
in  sight  of  its  great  cathedral.  This  cathedral  is  a  very 
large  church,  which  was  begun  several  hundred  years 
ago,  and  upon  which  they  are  still  working,  for  it  has 
never  been  completed.  Since  I  wrote  my  letter  to  Will, 
Mamma  and  I  have  been  through  Holland,  where  they 
have  a  different  government,  and  another  king  from 
that  of  Belgium,  and  different  again  from  where  we 
are  at  present,  which  is  in  Prussia.  It  was  from  Hol- 
land that  grandma's  great  grandfather  went  to  America. 
Some  of  the  people  appear  to  us  very  strange ;  they  wear 


FROM     ABROAD 


146 


bright  golden  plates,  made  to  tit  the  foreparl  of  the 
head,  extending  from  ear  to  ear,  and  some  have  large 
gilt  ornaments  as  large  as  an  egg,  stuck  in  the  hair 
just  over  the  ears ;  we  could  qoI  help  being  amused  a1 
their  singular  appearance.  We  looked  jusi  as  peculiar 
to  them,  for  as  we  passed  through  the  streets  of 
Amsterdam,  tlio  servants  came  to  the  window-  and 
laughed  at  as;  even  ladies  and  gentlemen  would  stop 
and  look  at  us  as  something  very  strange;  and  ye1  we 
were  not  conscious  of  anything  about  us  to  attract 
attention.  Holland,  you  know,  lias  boon  rescued  from 
the  ocean  by  large  banks  of  earth  faced  with  stone,  ami 
in  this  way  the  sea  is  now  kept  from  overflowing  the 
country.  If  the  dykes,  as  these  banks  are  called, 
should  break,  Towns,  villages  and  even  cities  would  be 
entirely  destroyed,  as  well  as  the  farms.  I  wonder  how 
my  little  hoy  would  like  to  live  in  a  country  exposed 
all  the  time  to  such  danger,  and  yet  the  people  of 
Holland  do  not  seem  to  think  about  it  at  all,  but  live 
on  from  day  to  day,  and  from  year  to  year,  as  if  no 
peril  threatened  them;  but  a  great  many  of  them  are 
good  persons,  fearing  and  serving  God.  and  feel  safe  in 
His  hands.  Mamma  and  I  have  been  very  much  im- 
pressed with  the  use  they  make  of  everything  here  ;  the 
dogs  do  a  great  deal  of  labor,  which  with  tis  the  horses 
are  made  to  perform.  They  are  harnessed  to  cart-. 
something  like  our  push-cart,  sometimes  one.  oft  en  two; 
they  draw  » pi ite  heavy  loads,  and  trot  along  and  seem 
to  do  their  work  as  freely  as  horses  do  with  11-.  Milk 
and  bread  in  the  cities  are  distributed  in  this  way.  and 
thus  the  dogs  are  turned  to  good  account,  and  not 
allowed  to  live  in  idleness.  Every  person  and  animal 
that  can  work  i>  made  to  do  their  part,  and  sometimes 
in  a  wav  that  we  are  not  accustomed  to,  and  which  to 
an  American  i>  very  offensive.     Women  do  much  of 


lJfi  HOME     LETTERS. 

the  out-door  labor  of  the  hardest  and  roughest  kind ; 
an  illustration  of  this  we  saw  as  we  entered  Rotterdam, 
women  were  unloading  bricks  from  a  boat,  pitching 
them  from  one  to  another.  In  Amsterdam  two  women 
passed  our  hotel  strapped  to  a  loaded  cart,  the  straps  of 
leather  were  fastened  to  the  cart  and  passed  over  their 
breasts  and  shoulders,  with  which  they  pulled  it  along. 
Now  don't  you  think  this  would  look  very  strange  in 
the  streets  of  Philadelphia  ?  But  to  live  in  Holland, 
every  one  must  work  hard,  taxes  are  very  high,  and 
food  is  expensive ;  the  people  do  not  sit  down  in  idle- 
ness and  complain  of  their  hard  lot  in  life,  but  try  to 
make  the  best  of  it,  and  they  seem  very  cheerful  and 
happy.  Though  the  country  is  flat  and  wet,  and  one 
would  think  it  unhealthy,  they  are  rosy  looking  and 
strong.  You  would  regard  Amsterdam  as  a  remark- 
able city,  I  am  sure,  as  nearly  every  street  has  a 
wide  canal  running  through  it,  with  room  for  wagons 
to  drive  and  people  to  walk  along  each  side  of  it.  The 
houses  are  five  and  six  stories  high,  and  many  of  them 
are  very  large.  One  of  these  canal  streets  is  three  miles 
long,  and  is  called  the  rich  man's  street,  because  they 
are  nearly  all  rich  men  who  live  upon  it.  I  saw  on  the 
boats  a  great  many  children,  some  of  them  playing  as 
our  little  children  play  in  their  streets  and  yards  at 
home,  and  this  surprised  me  very  much ;  on  making 
inquiry,  I  was  told  that  the  boat  was  their  home,  the 
only  one  they  had.  The  children  were  born  there,  and 
there  the  father  and  mother  lived,  both  parents  helping 
with  the  work  of  managing  their  home  upon  the  canal, 
loading  and  unloading  it,  and  when  on  its  way  the 
father  often  pulls  his  floating  craft,  and  the  mother 
steers  it,  while  the  children  play  on  its  deck.  But  I 
cannot  write  more  of  these  things  now ;  when  I  come 
home,  I  can  better  tell  you  about  them.     How  much  I 


FROM     ABROAD. 


w 


would  love  to  see  and  kiss  my  little  boy  Perrin,  who  is 
so  very  dear  to  me,  and  I  will  never  forget  the  last 
sight  I  had  of  him  on  the  wharf  at   New  York;  and 

my  heart  is  moved  every  time  I  think  of  it.  I  pray  to 
<;.>d  to  keep  you  safe,  and  hope  you  are  having  a 
pleasant  summer,  and  that  our  being  away  will  not 
seem  so  long  as  it  would  if  you  were  not  contented  and 
pleased.  Good-bye,  my  dear  Perrin,  be  a  good  boy,  be 
obedient  and  kind  to  all;  that  God  will  bless  you,  is 
my  daily  prayer.  J.  A. 


1  •  BS£      •  - 


mem  \  ^p^/ ; 


U8 


HOME     LETTERS. 


Postscript  to  M '5  letter  of 

August  4-,  1867. 

I  have  written  to  Perrin,  in  which  I  have  given 

some  of  my  impressions   about   Holland,  and  M 

has  given  hers  to  you  more  in  detail.  On  the  whole, 
we  were  disappointed  in  the  country,  for  in  many 
respects  it  was  very  different  from  what  we  had  sup- 
posed. Nine-tenths  of  the  land  is  given  up  to  grazing, 
and  with  the  exception  of  a  small  portion  bordering 
on  Prussia,  but  few  crops  of  grain  are  grown;  the 
country  is  very  flat,  and  as  far  as  the  eye  can  take 
in  the  prospect,  it  is  an  unbroken  level,  without  fences 
or  hedges  to  mark  the  division  of  fields.  The  road- 
ways  are  lined  with  ditches  filled  with  stagnant  water, 
and  the  houses  are  small,  most  of  them  one  story 
only,  some  one-and-a-half  story.  The  grain  principally 
grown  on  that  portion  bordering  on  Prussia  is  wheat 
and  buckwheat ;  small  patches  of  potatoes,  flax  in  oc- 
casional fields,  and  oats.  The  extent  of  the  buckwheat 
crop  was  a  matter  of  surprise  to  me ;  the  Holland  far- 
mers cannot  believe  the  prevailing  notion  the  American 
farmers  have,  that  it  is  an  exhaustive  crop.  Another 
strange  fact  which  I  observed  is,  that  the  wheat  through 
Belgium  and  Holland  is  cut  or  ready  for  the  sickle, 
while  the  oats  are  still  green  and  growing,  and  will  not 
be  ready  for  harvesting  for  several  weeks  to  come. 
With  us  the  reverse  of  this  is  true,  unless  my  memory  is 
at  fault.  The  only  attractive  place  we  visited  in  Hol- 
land was  the  Hague,  it  is  a  beautiful  city,  and  has  a 
population  of  65,000  inhabitants.  The  streets  are  wide, 
paved  with  brick,  and  there  are  many  fine  walks  bor- 


FR  0  M    ABR  0  AD.  /  ;// 

dered  with  trees.  This  city  is  the  scat  of  government, 
the  residence  of  the  court,  and  the  abode  of  foreign 
ministers,  it  was  originally  the  hunting  seal  of  the 
courts  of  Holland,  and  was  named  "La  Baye,"  from 
the  hedge  which  surrounded  their  Lodge.  Baron 
Makav  gave  us  some  interesting  information  in  regard 
to  the  social  habits  of  the  citizens,  Ee  -aid  that  al- 
though the  laws  established  the  political  equality  of 
the  people,  (the  revolution  of  1796  having  swept  away 
all  former  distinctions,)  yet  the  old  families  of  Holland 
were  among  the  most  aristocratic  in  Europe.  They 
are  very  exclusive,  and  will  not  marry,  or  allow  their 
children  to  form  any  association  outside  of  their  own 
particular  circle  or  class;  and  any  one  presuming  to 
infringe  upon  the  rule,  is  at  once  and  finally  debarred 
from  all  future  intercourse.  Wealth  is  no  passport  to 
society,  if  accumulated  by  the  person  possessing  ir.  no 
matter  how  well  educated  lie  may  be,  for  in  going  to 
the  Hague  to  reside,  he  must  expect  to  be  shutout 
from  this  distingue  inner  court  of  society.  We  visited 
the  old  Parliament  House  and  the  Courts  of  Justice ; 
the  latter  are  intended  only  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  Judges  and  spectators.  Trial  by  jury  has  not  been 
adopted,  the  people  are  opposed  to  its  introduction,  and 
the  Judge-  decide  all  questions  of  law  and  oi'  fact,  both 
civil  and  criminal.  The  Baron  said  that  they  had  so 
much  confidence  in  their  Judges,  that  they  much  prefer 
leaving  all  decisions  to  them,  rather  than  to  a  jury 
of  unlearned  men.  Very  few  American-.  I  think, 
would  be  favorably  impressed  with  Holland  ;  ir  is  such 
a  monotonously  dull,  level  country.  The  climate  is 
colder  than  the  opposite  coast  i^'  England  in  similar 
latitude-,  and  the  winters  are  severe,  the  atmosphere 
being  \^vy  moist,  owing  to  the  abundance  of  water. 
The  people  are   burdened   very  heavily  with    taxes,  for 


150 


HOME     LETTERS. 


the  immense  cost  of  keeping  the  dykes  in  repair,  the 
support  of  the  king  and  the  standing  army,  together 
with  the  other  expenses  of  government,  try  them  to  the 
utmost  extent  of  their  ability.  I  am  glad  that  we  have 
seen  this  country,  though  it  is  not  just  what  I  had  ex- 
pected to  find  it,  and  regret  not  having  been  able  to  go 
farther  north  into  the  provinces,  where  the  people  have 
less  intercourse  with  strangers,  and  retain  most  of  their 
national  peculiarities ;  but  Maggie  was  not  well,  had 
taken  cold,  and  I  was  afraid  to  venture  upon  an  excur- 
sion that  would  be  attended  with  some  discomfort ; 
and  then  our  friends  were  anxious  to  get  into  Germany, 
so  it  was  thought  best  to  go  on  to  Cologne.  It  is  now 
our  intention  to  go  up  the  Rhine,  stopping  at  different 
points  before  reaching  Frankfort,  and  to  avoid  night 
travel  as  far  as  possible.  J.  A. 


FR>OM     ABROAD.  /.;  j 


Mailed  at  FrankforUmAhe-Main. 

August  9,  1867. 

Monday,  August  5.  A  party  of  four  is  an  accom- 
modating number  that  any  ordinary  carnal'  will  scat 
comfortably,  and  if  the  persons  are  agreeable,  as  in  our 
case  we  were,  the  pleasure  and  enjoyment  of  the  ride 
is  greatly  increased  by  such  companionship.  We  were 
oft'  to  see  the  sights  of  Cologne  in  and  about  the  city  ; 
but  in  truth  there  was  not  very  much  to  look  at,  ex- 
cept its  magnificent  cathedral,  that  justly  attracts  the 
wonder  and  admiration  of  all  beholders.  Although 
commenced  in  the  twelfth  century  it  is  yet  unfinished  ; 
nearly  S2,000,000  have  been  expended  on  it  by  the 
kings  of  Prussia,  during  the  last  forty  years;  and  it  is 
estimated  that  it  will  require  85,000,000  for  its  com- 
pletion. "  The  master-mind  which  planned  this  noble 
pile  is  unknown,  and  the  original  designs  arc  Lost. 
The  interior  is  four  hundred  and  twenty-one  feet  long, 
and  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  broad,  and  the  portion 
appropriated  to  divine  service  occupies  an  area  of 
seventy  thousand  square  feet.  It  has  seven  interior 
Chapels.  One,  the  chapel  of  the  three  Kings  or  Magi. 
contains  the  bones  of  the  three  wise  men  who  came 
from  the  East  to  Bethlehem,  to  worship  and  offer  their 
presents  to  the  infant  Saviour.  The  silver  ease  con- 
taining the  bones,  which  is  ornamented  with  precious 
stones,  and  the  surrounding  valuables  in  the  Chapel 
are  worth  two  hundred  and  forty  thousand  pounds,"  it 
is  said,  but  this  is  probably  an  exaggerated  estimate. 
Under  a  slab  in  the  pavement,  between  the  high  altar 
and    the  shrine  of  the  magi,  the  heart    of   .Maria  de 


152  HOME     LETTERS. 

Medici  is  buried,  but  her  body  was  conveyed  to 
France.  Cologne  was  at  one  time  the  residence,  as  it 
was  the  birth-place  of  the  painter  Rubens  ;  and  it  was 
in  his  house  that  Maria  of  Medica  died  in  penury. 
There  are  several  other  churches  that  I  would  like  to 
speak  of,  but  time  presses,  and  I  can  only  mention  one 
other,  to  which  this  legend  is  attached :  "  When  the 
plague  raged  in  Cologne,  in  1357,  Richmodis,  the  wife 
of  the  Knight  Mengis  Von  Adocht,  was  attacked  by 
the  plague,  and  having  fallen  into  a  death-like  trance, 
was  interred  in  the  '  Apostles'  Church.'  Being 
awakened  from  her  trance  by  a  thievish  grave-digger, 
in  his  attempts  to  obtain  .her  valuable  rings,  she 
returned  to  the  house  of  her  husband,  who,  thinking 
he  beheld  an  apparition,  declared  he  would  sooner 
believe  that  his  horses  could  ascend  to  the  loft  of  his 
house  than  his  departed  spouse  return  in  propria 
persona.  Scarcely  had  the  words  escaped  his  lips," 
says  the  legend,  "  than  horses  hoofs  were  heard  mount- 
ing the  stairs,  and  their  heads  were  seen  looking  out 
of  a  window  in  the  upper  story  of  the  house."  Two 
horses'  heads  are  still  to  be  seen,  (where  we  saw  them,) 
projecting  their  heads  out  of  an  upper  window  in  a 
house  in  New  Market  street,  where  they  have  been 
placed  to  commemorate  the  miraculous  event.  The 
lady  recovered,  and  lived  many  years  after;  and  in 
the  church  are  preserved  several  garments  made  by 
her,  that  are  said  to  possess  miraculous  healing  powers. 
Cologne,  situated  as  it  is,  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
(Rhine,)  at  a  considerable  elevation,  with  every  fa- 
cility for  making  it  one  of  the  cleanest,  is  one  of  the 
dirtiest  cities  we  have  been  in,  (excepting  Amsterdam, 
the  dirtiest  of  all,)  ancl^very  particular  street  you  pass 
through  seems  to  delight  in  its  own  particular  smell. 
Although  the  well  known  perfume  "  Eau  de  Cologne," 


FROM     An  ROAD.  /.;.; 

is  an  important  production  of  the  place,  it  i-  aot 
manufactured   for  home   purification,   i   am  sure,  but 

niii-i   be  senl   abroad  where  it   ie  legs  needed.    .1 

and    Mrs.   D laid    in   a   supply  of  "Jean   Maria 

Farina's,"  bought  at  "K"o.  4  Julick  Place."  I  am 
particular  to  note  down  the  direction,  as  we  had  such 
a  search  to  find  the  locality,  and  to  save  vexatious 
trouble  in  future,  for  I  am  confident  they  are  culti- 
vating a  foreign  taste  that  cannot  be  gratified  at  home. 
The  only  peculiarity  of  dress  I  noticed  here,  was  that 
the  market  women  wear  small  handkerchiefs  or  shawls 
over  their  heads  instead  of  bonnets.  The  barbers  have 
for  a  sign  two  bright  copper  plates,  suspended  from  a 
rod  in  front  of  their  doors,  to  indicate  their  skill  in 
putting  the  laces  of  their  customers  in  as  smooth  a 
condition,  I  suppose.  We  dismissed  our  carriage  at 
the  wharf,  and  took  passage  (in  the  James  Miller)  for 
Coblentz,  up  the  Rhine,  and  the  first  two  persons  that 

greeted   us,   were  Mr.    1> ■  and    Mary.     This   was 

quite  a  surprise  to  us  all,  and  added  two  more  to  our 
party;  six  to  dine  at  the  table,  arranged  at  our 
suggestion,  in  the  open  air,  rather  than  in  the  close 
little  cabin  below.  Shielded  by  an  awning  from  the 
heat  of  the  sun,  we,  enjoyed  the  plain  but  comfortable 
meal,  and  the  arrangement  would  have  Keen  quite  to 
our  satisfaction,  had  not  a  party  of  eight  or  ten  college 
students,  (coarse,  rude  fellows,) placed  themselves  about 
us,  and  staring  with  all  the  vulgarity  of  English 
cockneys,  spoiled  the  whole  enjoyment  of  the  dinner. 
What  there  was  about  our  appearance  or  mode  of  eating 
that  was  exceptional,  and  calculated  to  excite  their 
merriment,  we  could  not  tell  ;  but  as  we  had  no  means 
of  resenting  the  annoyance,  we %ad  to  submit  to  the 
nuisance  of  being  stared  at.  It'  these  students  are 
illustrative  evidences  of  polite  murals  as  taught  at  the 

it 


15  j,  HOME     LETTERS. 

University  of  Bonn,  we  will  not  send  our  boys  to  its. 
academic  halls.  It  was  quite  dark  when  we  reached 
Coblentz,  as  late  as  nine  in  the  evening,  when  we 
entered  the  city  with  a  feeling  of  disappointment. 
The  Rhine  had  not  realized  our  expectations.  The  banks 
of  the  river  from  Cologne  to  Bonn,  were  almost  as  flat 
as  in  Holland,  and  our  comparison  at  the  time  was 
with  "  the  low  flats  on  the  shores  of  New  Jersey." 
The  scenery  does  not  compare  favorably  with  the 
Hudson ;  but  we  must  reserve  our  judgment  until 
to-morrow.  Our  rooms  at  the  "  Hotel  de  Bellevue  ': 
are  small,  having  two  beds  (more  like  cribs  for  chil- 
dren) in  each,  a  washstand  and  bureau.  They  are  dirty 
and  badly  ventilated,  and  we  have  strong  suspicions 
that  the  animals  lodge  below  us.  Oh  !  this  is  even 
worse  than  Cologne ;  but  there  is  no  help  for  it ;  we 
are  in  for  the  night ;  and  that  is  well,  because  out  of 
doors  the  atmosphere  is  damp  and  chill. 

Tuesday,  August  6.  There  was  no  inducement  to 
play  lazy  this  morning,  so  we  were  up  bright  and 
early.  I  should  have  said  early  and  dull,  as  we  were 
feeling  very  stupid  after  an  uncomfortable  night ; 
however,  our  breakfast  was  quite  palatable,  and  the 
table  was  even  ornamented  with  flowers.  As  soon  as 
the  meal  was  disposed  of,  we  hired  an  open  carriage, 
into  which  we  all  managed  to  squeeze,  and  directed 
our  driver  to  show  us  the  lions  and  attractions  of  the 
city.  The  town  is  built  upon  a  triangular  piece  of 
land,  between  the  rivers  Moselle  and  Rhine,  and  is 
surrounded  by  immense  fortifications.  The  streets  are 
mostly  regular,  and  many  of  the  public  buildings  are 
handsome,  and  among  these  are  the  King's  Palace, 
and  the  church  of  St.  Castor,  founded  in  the  ninth 
century,  and  said  to  be  the  church  in  which  Charle- 


v. 


\  L,,'i;/., 


m!*- 


.»»-  «J» 


On  <v?\v,\.  .<rl'//o:  *  ..■<  <  \f 


FR  0  M     A  BROAD.  /.;.: 

magne  divided  his  empire  among  hia  grandchildren. 
But  of  all  places  and  points  of  interesl  thai  we  visited, 
not  ora   has  made  so  Lasting  an  impressioD  upon  our 
minds  as  the  ride  of  three  miles  up  to  the  "Castle  of 
Stolzenfels."    It  was  built  by  one  of  the  Archbishops 
of  Treves,  both  as  a  residence  and  fortress,  is   finely 
placed  <>ii  a  jutting  rock  overlooking  the  Rhine,  and  its 
picturesque  outline  and   commanding  position  justify 
its  name  of  the  "Proud  Rock."    It  was  presented  to 
the  King  of  Prussia  by  the  city  of  Coblentz,  by  whom 
it  was   repaired,  and   it  is  now  the  residence  of  the 
dowager  Queen.     Many  of  the  rooms  are  beautifully 
frescoed,    and    the    armory    contains    numerous    iv]i   -. 
among  which  are  the  swords  of  Murat,  Napoleon,  and 
Blucher,  and  the  chapel  walls  are  frescoed,  represent- 
ing the    knightly   virtues   and    accomplishment-,    by 
scenes  from  history;  among  others,  courage  is  illus- 
trated by  the  death  of  the  blind  king,  John  of  Bohe- 
mia, at  the  battle  of  Cressy,  after  having  fastened  his 
horse  to  those  of  two  knights.     A  carriage  road  has 
been   formed,  partly  by  bridging  a  ravine,  up  to  the 
Castle,  "three  hundred  feet  above  the  Rhine,"  and  is 
carried  thence  in  zigzags  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  and 
pretty  gardens  and  walks  have  been  laid  out  around  it, 
and  here  it  was,  from  this  elevation,  that  we  were  first 
favorahhj  impressed  with  the  beauties  and   attractions 
of  this  world-renowned    river.     The   views   from  the 
windows  of  the  Castle  were  very  grand   and   lovely: 
but  there  is  often  one  step  only  from  the  sublime  to  the 
ridiculous,  and  our  future  recollections  of  "  Stolzenfels" 
will   always  be  associated  with  a   lot   of  mean    little 
donkeys,  and  our  ride  up  its  dizzy  heights,  mounted 
upon  their  backs.     That  ride  cosl   us  twenty  groschens 
apiece — about   fifty   cents.     The   ladies   were  allowed 
the  first  choice,  to  select  from  twenty  or  more  head- 


156  HOME     LETTERS. 

strong  little  brutes,  which  one  each  might  prefer ;  and 
one  of  the  attendants  had  discrimination  enough  to 

know  (and  see,  perhaps)  that  Mrs.  D would  need 

a  stronger  beast  than  either  Mary  or  myself;  for  in 
deference  to  this  opinion  she  was  allowed  to  mount 
first.  Mary  in  weight  came  next,  and  after  her  came 
ponderous  Maggie.  The  gentlemen  followed  in  the 
rear,   and   my   shaggy   mule   led   off,   while   Madame 

Dougherty  and  Mrs.  B came  on  at  a  trot.     Justice 

Allison  and  advocate  Barnet,  with  their  accustomed 
gallantry,  tried  to  catch  up,  but  mulish  stubbornness 
put  an  interdict  upon  their  good  intentions.  Coun- 
sellor Dougherty  was  in  despair ;  his  jennet  would  not 
go,  for  love  or  money  ;  not  even  with  blows  could  she 
be  induced  to  stir  beyond  a  walk,  for  of  all  the  pack, 
his  vixenish  jade  was  the  most  obstinate  and  self- 
willed.  The  lash  made  no  impression  upon  her 
leathery  hide,  so  he  tried  caresses,  called  her  pet  names, 
"  beautiful  creature,  delight  of  my  eyes,  vision  of  my 
dreams,  (imploringly,)  Oh  !  take  me  to  my  Celie ;  she 
is  beyond  my  sight,  she  is  fleeing  from  me;  I  shall 
never  see  her  more ;  "  and  then  in  a  despairing  tone 
calling :  "  Celie,  Celie,  my  beloved,  wait  for  me,  let  me 
clasp  you  in  my  arms,  and  feel  that  I  have  you  safe." 
This  rapturous  appeal,  and  the  conversation  that  it 
naturally  called  out  from  the  other  members  of  the 
party,  kept  us  in  a  convulsive  state  of  excitement  all 
the  way  up  the  ascent ;  and  in  coming  down,  the 
amusement  was  in  criticising  each  particular  member 
of  the  party,  and  the  ludicrous  appearance  we  presented 
one  to  the  other.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  we  purchased, 
at  a  stall  by  the  road  side,  some  little  agate  ornaments 
and  boxes,  after  which  we  returned  to  the  hotel  and 
had  a  hurried  dinner,  before  taking  the  boat  for 
Biberich,  at  half-past  2  p.  m. 


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M     I 


)    / 


/•'/,'  0  U     A  B  8  GAD.  /.;; 

In  the  distance  from  Coblentz  to  Biberich  nearly  all 

» 

the  interest  of  the  Rhine  is  centred  ;  at  leasl  it  so  im- 
pressed us.  And  yet  acknowledging  its  attractions  to 
be  very  great,  we  had  a  feeling  of  disappointment  ;  it 
was  not  all  thai  we  had  expected  to  see.     Takeaway 

its  historical  associations  and  traditional  memories, 
and  the  efforts  of  art,  aided  by  the  munificence  of 
kings  and  princes  to  adorn  every  town,  city,  castle  and 
ruin,  and  T  could  name  a  half  dozen  rivers,  in  our  own 
country,  that  would  far  exceed  it  in  natural  attractive- 
ness and  wild  picturesque  scenery.  The  thousand 
legends  that  are  connected  with  these  old  castles  and 
romantic  ruins,  add  greatly  to  the  interest  that 
attaches  to  them;  as  an  illustration,  the  Castle  of 
"  Shonberg"  received  its  name,  "  Beautiful  Hill,""  as  tic 
story  goes,  "from  seven  beautiful  daughters  of  the 
house;  they  were  beautiful  to  admiration,  but  no  less 
cold-hearted  than  beautiful.  Love  was  looked  upon  as 
a  fable,  pleasure  and  the  chase  were  their  idols;  they 
sang,  but  it  was  only  of  knightly  deeds  of  heroic 
actions.  Vainly  the  flower  of  chivalry  sought  to  win 
their  love  ;  youth,  valor,  accomplishments,  all  were  to 
them  as  naught.  Frequently  did  they  exercise  their 
capricious  tempers  at  the  expense  of  their  suitors,  who 
were  occasionally  encouraged,  in  order  to  be  repulsed 
with  twofold  cruelty.  At  length  the  nobles  began  to 
lose  their  tempers  ;  and  the  sisters  perceived  that  they 
must  come  to  a  decision.  The  suitors  were  accordingly 
informed  that  they  might  expect  an  answer  if  they 
would  assemble  on  the  morrow  in  the  halls  of  the 
castle.  In  due  time  they  entered,  each  seeking  t<> 
place  himself  in  the  most  favorable  position.  An  hour 
and  then  another  hour  elapsed,  still  the  maidens  did 
not  come,  the  anxious  nobles  began  to  express  their 
impatience;    when    suddenly    their   attention    was    at- 


158  HOME     LETTERS. 

tracted  by  sounds  of  mirth.  At  this,  they  all  rushed 
to  the  windows,  and,  looking  towards  the  river, 
they  saw  a  light  skiff  quitting  the  shore  freighted 
with  the  seven  sisters,  who,  with  cruel  mockery 
and  loud  laughter,  saluted  their  lovers.  The  knights 
saw  the  trick  that  had  been  played  upon  them,  but 
they  were  soon  avenged  ;  for  even  while  they  continued 
to  look,  the  receding  boat  and  its  lovely  cargo  suddenly 
struck  upon  a  rock,  and  in  an  instant  sunk  beneath 
the  flood.  Seven  rugged,  pointed  rocks  may  be  seen  to 
this  day  when  the  water  is  low;  and  the  dangerous 
spot  is  carefully  avoided  by  the  passing  mariners,  by 
whom  the  rocks  are  called  the  Seven  Maidens." 

The  Castle  of  Rheinstein  stands  on  a  projecting 
ledge  of  rocks,  which  rises  almost  perpendicular  from 
the  bank  of  the  river,  and  to  the  eye  from  below,  it 
seems  quite  inaccessible,  although  there  is  a  road  barely 
wide  enough  to  pass  between  the  rocks  and  the  river. 
The  Fortress  of  Rheinfels  is  the  most  extensive  ruin  on 
the  Rhine ;  the  views  in  its  vicinity  are  among  the 
most  beautiful  and  picturesque  in  the  whole  course 
of  the  river,  and  the  rocks  which  frame  it  in  are  pecu- 
liarly wild  and  precipitous.  Opposite  to  Rheinstein 
there  are  extensive  vineyards,  and  indeed  vines  were 
planted  on  all  the  hillsides,  having  a  good  exposure  for 
the  growth  of  grapes  ;  and  some  of  the  slopes  looked  to 
us  so  steep,  we  wondered  how  it  was  possible  for  the 
laborers  to  get  up  to  trim  the  vines.  These  vineyards 
are  nothing:  more  than  a  succession  of  terraces  extend- 
ing  from  the  top  to  the  bottom  of  the  hills ;  some  of 
which  must  be  nearly  one  thousand  feet  high ;  in 
a  number  of  places  we  counted  more  than  a  dozen 
terraces  rising  one  above  another,  supported  by  walls 
of  masonry,  from  four  to  five  feet  high,  and  in  other 
places  where  the  hillsides  were  very  steep,  the  vines 


FROM     ABROAD.  /.;.'/ 

were  planted  in  baskets  to  retain  the  Boil  about  their 
roots.  To  reach  many  of  these  narrow  plots,  the  vine- 
dresser—female  as  well  as  male-  must  scale  the  preci- 
pices, and  hang  as  it  were  from  the  face  of  the  rod 
while  a  great  deal  of  the  Boil  itself  and  every  particle 
of  manure  musl  be  carried  up  on  their  shoulders.  This 
will  give  you  some  idea  of  the  labor  and  expense  of 
such  cultivation,  and  of  the  ffreal  value  of  every  inch 
of  ground  in  these  narrow  strips  to  repay  it.  The  ap- 
pearance of  the  Rhineland  vinedresser,  does  not  verify 
that  which  painters  draw  and  poets  describe;  bul  they 
at  least  look  cheerful  and  contented,  and  that  is  per- 
haps more  than  can  be  said  of  the  lordly  occupants 
of  tin-  castles. 

"We  passed  Bingen — ••  fair  Bingen  on  the  Rhii  . 
Near  it,  and  surrounded  by  the  river,  rises  the  little 
square  tower  called  "  Mouse  Tower,"  renowned  for  the 
tradition  of  Bishop  Eatto,  Archbishop  of  Mayence, 
having  refused  the  starving  poor  of  his  diocese  corn 
from  his  well-stocked  granaries,  shut  them  up  at  last  in 
a  barn  to  which  he  set  fire,  and  calling  their  erics  of 
agony  "the  whistle  of  mice."  Legions  of  these  ani- 
mals infested  his  palace;  to  avoid  them,  he  buill  the 
tower,  where  they  pursued  and  devoured  him  alive. 
Some  of  the  finest  views  we  lost  in  approaching  Bibe- 
rich;  as  the  twilight  deepened  into  night,  the  air 
became  damp  and  chill,  and  we  had  to  seek  the  Bhelter 
of  the  confined  little  cabin.  It  was  as  late  as  ten  in 
the  evening  when  we  landed  at  the  pier,  where  there 
was  a  good  deal  of  confusion  and  detention  for  - ane 
unaccountable  reason.  Even  after  we  had  secured  our 
-eats  in  the  stage,  we  were  kept  waiting,  for  what  pur- 
pose, no  one  could  tell;  we  were  certainly  crowded  in 
so  closely  that  there  was  no  possibility  of  compressing 
even  a  little  body   in;  however,  misery   like  pleasure, 


260  HOME     L  E  T  TEES. 

must  come  to  an  end ;  the  driver  at  last  mounted  the 
box,  and  we  were  off  to  Weisbaden,  three  miles  from 
Biberich.  It  was  a  chilly,  comfortless  ride,  and  we 
could  see  nothing  outside  as  we  passed  along,  and  inside 
we  had  only  the  grumbles  of  discontented  passengers  to 
amuse  us.  The  plethoric  Germans  insisting  that  they 
were  stifled  in  the  confined  atmosphere,  while  the  con- 
sumptive and  thin-blooded  patients  were  chilled  to  the 
marrow  if  a  window  was  raised  an  inch.  "  Poor  old 
Dock,"  in  his  unselfish  desire  to  put  himself  in  the  most 
uncomfortable  position  for  the  convenience  of  others, 
and  more  than  half  an  eye  to  business  too,  sat  at  the 
door,  almost  smothered  in  bundles  and  shawls,  in  readi- 
ness to  be  out  first,  and  secure  rooms  for  the  night. 
It  was  midnight  when  we  reached  the  town,  the  hotels 
were  crowded ;  we  applied  to  one,  then  to  a  second, 
and  finally  settled  down  to  where  we  now  are,  at  the 
"  Quatre  Saisons." 

Wednesday  night,  August  7.  Our  tea  table  and  its 
appendages  have  all  been  put  aside,  our  friends  have 
dispersed,  each  one  to  his  own  apartments,  and  I  alone 
sit  up  to  jot  down  the  occurrences  of  the  day.  We 
had  a  ride  of  two*  hours,  in  and  around  the  town  of 
"Weisbaden,  which  is  regularly  built,  and  has  some 
fine  old  buildings,  most  of  which  are  appropriated  as 
lodging  houses  or  hotels,  and  fronting  on  the  public 
park  are  a  number  of  beautiful  villas,  owned  and 
occupied  by  wealthy  persons,  during  the  season,  which 
is  said  to  be  longer  here  than  at  many  other  water- 
ing places.  Its  bath  and  mineral  waters  have  great 
celebrity  for  their  medicinal  properties,  and  the  hours 
for  drinking  the  waters  are  from  five  to  eight  in  the 
morning,  and  again  in  the  evening  about  six.  A  long 
avenue  of  trees  serves  as  a  promenade  for  the  water- 


F  U  OM     A  /-'  /.'  0  AD.  t61 

drinkers,  and  leads  np  to  the  principal  Bpring.  The 
waters  are  boiling  hot,  the  patients  receive  their  por- 
tions, and  walk  about,  glass  in  band,  until  it  is  cool 
enough  to  drink,  and  it  is  said  to  taste  like  "boiled 
sea-water,"  1>ut  we  felt  no  desire  to  test  it.  The 
most  remarkable  building,  to  us.  in  the  place,  w; 
the  "  Kursaal,"  or  gambling  house,  where  gaming  is 
carried  on  from  morning  until  midnight.  A  French- 
man pays  forty-three  thousand  florins  yearly  rent,  for 
the  privilege  of  opening  gaming  tables.  The  building 
occupies  the  entire  side  of  one  square,  the  three  other 
sides  of  which  are  lined  by  colonnades,  filled  with  gay 
shops,  serving  as  a  promenade  in  wet  weather,  and  a 
sort  of  bazaar  during  the  whole  of  the  season,  where 
for  money  you  can  buyalmosl  everything.  The  interior 
of  the  building  is  divided  into  hall-rooms,  reading- 
rooms,  dining-rooms,  and  gaming-rooms ;  but  the  last 
form-  the  greal  centre  of  attraction  and  gaiety,  and  a 
balcony  leading  from  the  hall-room,  opens  out  into  a 
beautiful  garden,  where,  when  dinner  is  over,  every 
one  betakes  himself  to  sip  coffee  or  eat  ices.  Tables 
are  placed  in  the  open  air,  within  hearing  of  a  hand  of 
music;  and  ;it  the  hour  (8  o'clock)  when  we  were  there, 
the  space  behind  the  "  The  Kursaal""  was  so  completely 
filled  with  company,  and  the  tables  were  so  crowded 
together,  that  there  was  barely  room  to  pass,  and  we 
could  not  find  one  unoccupied  seat.  It  was  a  novel 
sight  to  us,  and  rather  exciting  withal.  Wiesbaden  is 
heautifully  situated  in  a  picturesque  neighborhood, 
affording  agreeable  walks  and  rides,  and  the  most  com- 
plete  retirement,  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  its 
precincts,  and  by  ascending  any  of  the  adjacenl  hills, 
elevated  only  a  few  hundred  feel  above  the  town,  a 
charming  prosped  is  disclosed  to  view,  of  the  Rhine, 
and   the   spires   and   boat   bridge   of    Mayen    .      The 


16%  HOME     LETTERS. 

superb  "  Russo-Greek  Chapel,"  on  the  hill  called  Nero 
berg,  (from  a  tradition  that  that  Emperor  dwelt  there,) 
was  raised  by  the  Duke  of  Nassau,  to  contain  the  re- 
mains of  his  first  wife,  a  Russian  princess.  We  passed 
within  sight,  and  quite  near  to  it,  and  now  feel  sorry 
that  we  did  not  make  the  effort  to  see  the  interior,  as 
it  is  said  to  contain  an  effigy  in  marble  of  the  princess, 
and  is  altogether  very  beautiful. 

Thursday,  August  8.  This  night  we  are  domiciled 
in  Frankfort-on-the-Main ;  and  at  this  hour,  10  o'clock, 

J is  in  bed  ;  I  must  soon  follow,  for  I  am  very 

weary,  but  I  must  note  the  incidents  of  the  day  before 
retiring ;  if  I  do  not,  to-morrow's  occupations  will 
crowd  them  out  of  my  recollection  altogether.  Before 
leaving  Wiesbaden  we  made  a  few  purchases  at  the 
bazaar,  strolled  along  the  streets  a  few  squares,  but  did 
not  extend  our  walk  a  long  distance,  as  the  air  was 
chilly,  with  an  occasional  shower  of  rain,  that  hurried 
us  back  to  our  hotel.  Half-past  two  found  us  at  the 
depot  waiting  for  the  train  that  would  convey  us  to 
this  old  city,  and  among  our  fellow  passengers  was  the 
Prince  de  Joinville.  With  a  prayer  for  the  safety  and 
continued  good  health  of  all  the  dear  friends  at  home, 
I  will  say  good-night. 

Friday  morning,  August  9,  12  o'clock.  We  have  been 
delightfully  occupied  since  breakfast  hour  in  reading 
our  budget  of  letters  from  home  ;  no  less  than  five, — 
two  from  Grandpa,  two  from  Minnie,  and  one  from 
"  Uncle  William,"  giving  us  a  touching  account  of 
poor  old  Prince's  death  and  burial !  Faithful  old  fel- 
low !  I  am  glad  he  was  so  carefully  nursed  during  his 
sickness,  and  so  tenderly  carried  to  his  last  resting 
place.     I  was  quite  certain  that  Aunt  Mary  would  be 


FROM     ABROAD 


t6S 


very  much  interested  in  hearing  abont  our  visil  to  [re- 
land.  I  have  read  some  portions  of  vout  letters  to  Mrs. 
D and  Mary,  those  parts  that  T  knew  would  par- 
ticularly interest  them.      Mary  and  Mr.  B are  at 

the  Hotel  Russia,  having  followed  us  on  a  later  train 
from  Wiesbaden  ;  hut  making  application a1  a  late  hour 
in  the  evening  at  this  hotel,  (the  Angleterre,)  they 
could  not  be  accommodated.  It  would  be  necessary  for 
you  to  be  in  our  situation,  to  be  able  fully  to  under- 
stand what  value  we  place  upon  your  messages  of  love 
and  kindness.  Friends  and  children  seem  doubly  dear 
under  such  circumstances,  and  after  so  long  a  separa- 
tion. I  am  glad  that  you  enjoy  our  letters  and  find 
them  satisiaetory,  to  us  they  seem  very  disjointed 
and  meagre  in  detail ;  hut  that  is  unavoidable,  pressed 
as  we  are  for  time.  They  are  often  written  in  great 
discomfort,  and  at  night,  actually  when  I  feel  too  sleepy 
and  tired  to  think  or  talk  very  sensibly  about  any- 
thing. 

M.  C.  A. 


16£  HOME     LETTERS. 


Frankfort, 
August  9,  1867. 

Dear  Friends: — I  have  just  finished  a  letter  to 
Judge  Ludlow,  and  Maggie  hands  over  her  sheet,  and 
says,  "  do  fill  it  out,  and  let  it  be  mailed  to-day."  We 
have  reached  this  place  by  easy  journeys  from  Cologne; 
and  one  hour's  ride  from  Wiesbaden  brought  us  to 
Frankfort-on-the-Main ; — a  city,  that  at  different  per- 
iods, has  played  a  very  important  part  in  the  history 
of  Europe,  dating  back  as  far  as  the  days  of  its  founder, 
Charlemagne.  What  attractions  it  may  have  for 
strangers  we  have  not  yet  discovered,  having  only 
passed  through  on  our  way  from  the  depot ;  but  many 
of  the  buildings  that  we  saw,  seemed  to  tell  the  story 
of  olden  times,  when  kings  and  mighty  men  of  war, 
created,  maintained,  and  overthrew  the  empires  of  the 
world.  It  is  in  these  associations  of  the  past  that 
one  finds  the  greatest  pleasure  in  visiting  these  old 
cities  of  Central  Europe.  The  homes,  the  palaces, 
the  temples,  magnificent  and  grand,  remain ;  but 
those  who  created  them — where  are  they?  The 
portion  of  Germany  in  which  we  are  now,  is  in  many 
respects  interesting,  and  in  some  particulars  reminds 
me  of  home,  as  my  early  life  was  spent  among  people 
whose  ancestors  went  from  here  to  Pennsylvania, 
taking  with  them  the  habits  and  peculiar  customs  I 
now  see  around  me,  and  for  this  reason,  I  am  conscious 
that  I  feel  much  more  at  ease  than  I  did  in  France. 
Quiet  and   good   order    everywhere    characterize   the 

German's   rule.     I   have    not   read  what   M has 

written,  excepting  that  portion  which  relates  to  our 


FROM     ABROAD,  //;.: 

• 

ride  "ii  tin.'  donkeys  to  the  Castle  of  Stolzenfels. 
When  yon  read  it,  I  am  sure  you  will  say  thai  wonders 
never  cease;  bu1  it  must  bo  confessed  thai  it  was  an 
entirely  unexpected  performance  to  all  the  party,  and 
when  the  carriage  stopped  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  ami 
it  was  suggested  thai  we  should  take  mules  to  ride  up 
the  mountain,  Maggie  was  ;the  first  to  protesl  against 
the  arrangement,  and  said,  "  Indeed  I  can  never  ride  on 
the  hack  of  one  of  those  shaggy  little  things."  A 
little  coaxing:  and  encouragement  overcame  her  fears, 

and  she   mounted,  Mrs.  D and   Mrs.    B wen 

already  upon  the  hacks  of  their  steeds,  and  the  gentle- 
men had  no  alternative  hut  to  make  it  their  pleasure 
to  follow  the  ladies.  We  were  a  jovial  party  you  may 
rest  assured,  each  one  laughing  at  the  ridiculous  figure 
of  the  other-,  never  hefore  did  the  same  persons  pre-. 'lit 
so  ludicrous  a  sight;  but  no  one  got  through  the 
fatigue  better,  or  enjoyed  the  ride  more  than  Maggie. 
We  were  much  pleased  with  our  second  day's  journey 
up  the  Rhine;  the  scenery  is  charming,  and  the  old 
castles,  many  of  them  in  ruins,  which  crown  the  hills, 
seem  to  cling  to  the  mountain  sides,  and  add  an  attrac- 
tive feature  to  the  landscape,  which  no  other  river 
that  our  eyes  are  familiar  with,  exhibits.  Some  of 
these  ruins  are  very  extensive,  others  have  to  a  great 
extent  yielded  to  the  agency  of  time  and  the  elements, 
or  to  the  desolation  which  war  inflicted  on  them,  and 
are  rapidly  crumbling  into  decay.  They  present  un- 
questionable evidence  of  the  power  and  magnificence 
of  the  titled  highwaymen  of  the  Rhine,  who  lived  by 
robbery  and  pillage;  and  this  is  well  illustrated,  by  an 
ancedote  which  was  told  to  us:  An  Archbishop  of 
Cologne,  having  built  a  castle,  appointed  a  steward  to 
the  command  of  it.  The  governor  previous  to  entering 
upon  the  duties  of  his  office,  applied  to  the  Bishop  to 


Iqq  ROME     LETTERS. 

know  how  he  was  to  maintain  himself,  no  revenue 
having  heen  assigned  to  him  for  that  purpose.  The 
Prelate  by  way  of  answer,  merely  desired  him  to  ob- 
serve that  his  castle  stood  close  to  the  junction  of  four 
roads. 

I  suppose  Maggie  has  given  you  in  her  long  letter 
the  particulars  of  the  last  few  days,  so  that  it  will  be 
useless  to  repeat.  We  feel  now,  since  the  receipt  of 
your  letters,  that  we  are  well  informed  in  regard  to  all 
that  is  transpiring  at  home ;  and  again,  as  the  English 
say,  thanks. 

J.  A. 


^p. 


FR  0  M     A  II  U  u  A  /'.  2G7 


Mailed  at  11  idelh  /;</« 

August  JO,  1867. 

Friday,  August  9.  We  were  occupied  mosi  of  the 
day  in  writing  letters,  up  to  5  p.  m.,  dinner  hour,  and 
wort,-  on  the  lookout  for  novelties  in  the  culinary 
department,  nothing  new  made  its  appearance  ;  but  an 

old  favorite,  which,  was  quite  as  acceptable,a  nice  dish 
of  venison  dressed  with  currant  jelly.  The  last  was 
particularly  palatable  to  me,  as  you  know  my  weak- 
ness for  preservesand  sweet  things  in  general;  and  this 
was  only  the  second  time  thai  r  have  tasted  anything 
of  the  kind  since  leaving  home.  Strawberries  we  had 
for  dessert,  but  no  cream,  and  I  said  to  the  garcon, 
"  Why  do  you  not  use  cream  with  the  berri  Hi- 

answer  was  a  question,  "  Why,  do  you  do  that  in 
America'.' ,:  A  ride  of  two  hours  after  dinner,  gave  us 
a  most  satisfactory  view  of  the  city  ;  the  public  gardens 
that  completely  encircle  it  occupy  the  site  of  the  old 
walls  and  fortifications,  and  they  add  very  much  to  its 
attractiveness.  So  also  do  the  beautiful  private  dwell- 
ings and  palaces  on  tin1  quays  facing  the  Main,  and  in 
the  principal  street  called  "  Zeil,"  inhabited  by  rich 
merchants  and  bankers;  hut  the  quarter  of  the  city 
that  we  were  most  interested  in  seeing,  was  the  older 
portions,  with  their  dark  and  narrow  Btreets,  their 
quaint  wooden  buildings,  with  gables  overhangi]  _ 
their  basement  stories.  We  saw  the  house  in  which 
Gdthe  was  born,  a  very  huge  old-fashioned  building. 
His  father's  coat  of  arms,  which  by  a  curious  -•'•inci- 
dence bears  the  poetical  device  of  three  lyres,  (-till  re- 
maining  over  the  door,)  "was  chosen  by    the   poet's 


168  HOME     LETTERS. 

father,  on  the  occasion  of  his  marriage,  from  a  fancied 
resemblance  to  a  hore-shoe,  the  grandfather  of  the 
poet  having  been  a  farrier  by  trade."  We  saw,  too,  the 
house  in  which  Luther  resided  for  a  time,  in  the  Dom 
Platz,  and  from  which  it  is  said  he  addressed  the  peo- 
ple before  starting  out  on  his  memorable  journey  to 
"Worms.  A  portrait  of  him  cut  in  stone  is  placed  be- 
side the  entrance  door,  and  below  it  the  inscription, 
"  In  silentio  et  spe  erit  fortitudo  vestra."  Frankfort  is 
the  native  place  of  the  Rothschild  family,  and  the 
house  in  which  they  were  born  is  in  the  Judengasse, 
Jews'  street,  a  dark,  dirty,  dingy  old  street,  with  the 
usual  rags  and  filth  of  a  Jew's  quarter.  The  houses  are 
five  and  six  stories  high  ;  the  upper  stories  projecting 
so  far  over  those  below,  as  to  almost  entirely  exclude 
the  sunlight,  during  the  day.  These  poor  Jews  were 
until  lately  treated  with  great  illiberality.  "  The  gates 
of  the  quarter  to  which  they  were  exclusively  confined, 
were  closed  upon  them  at  an  early  hour  of  the  night ; 
after  which,  no  one  was  allowed  to  pass  out  or  in, 
under  heavy  penalty,  but  now,  they  are  no  longer  re- 
stricted or  compelled  to  live  in  one  street,  but  may  hire 
or  purchase  houses  where  they  please." 

Saturday,  August  10.  We  were  either  tired  or  lazy, 
perhaps  a  little  of  both,  this  morning,  and  did  not 
breakfast  until  ten  o'clock.  After  that  hour,  we 
started  out  to  see  the  shops,  and  to  call  upon  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  B ;  but  meeting  them  on  the  street  we  were 

prevented  from  following  out  our  intention,  and  said, 
"  good-bye,"  just  where  we  met,  not  knowing  when  or 
where  we  should  see  each  other  again,  as  our  lines 
of  travel  diverge  at  this  point.  They  go  to  Dres- 
den, and  we  to  Homburg.  To  expedite  our  move- 
ments and   to  economize   time,   we  hired   a   carriage 


/••  72  0  M    A  J!  11  0  A  I).  169 

and  drove  to  see  the  famous  statue  oi  "Ariadne," 
seated  on  a  tiger.  This  production  of  arl  i-  the  pride 
in  id  boasl  of  f  he  people  of  this  city,  and  is  the  property 
of  a  private  gentleman,  Mi-.  Bethman.  The  Btatue  is 
placed  in  a  Grecian  Temple,  buill  for  it-  reception; 
tin'  walls  are  painted  crimson, and  the  lighl  from  above 
passes  through  a  n>se-colored  screen,  which  gives  the 
marble  a  soi't  flesh-like  warmth  of  coloring,  and  a  life-- 
like expression,  that  I  never  could  have  imagined;  it 
was  exquisitely  beautiful,  and  the  loveliness  of  the 
effect  is  <[ifiu-  indescribable.  We  visited  the  house  in 
which  Baron  Rothschild  was  born,  and  went  all 
through  it  from  parlor  to  kitchen,  and  found  it  in  the 
neatesl  possible  ^v<\rv.  Our  attendant  was  an  agreeable 
French  madame,  whom  the  Baron  employs  to  show 
strangers  through.  It  is  a  small,  old-fashioned,  three- 
story  house,  the  front  door  opening  directly  into  a 
lower  room,  very  narrow  stairways,  so  narrow  that 
two  could  not  well  pass  each  other,  and  with  very  low 
ceilings.  The  furniture  looked  well  worn  and  as  if  it 
dated  back  three  or  four  generations;  an  old  corner 
cupboard,  a  secretary  bookcase  with  brass  ornaments 
and  handles  to  the  drawers,  side  tables  with  lion-clawed 
feet,  a  corner  clock,  and  some  old  family  portraits  hung 
againsl  the  wall,  which,  with  a  few  old-fashioned  china 
jars  on  the  mantel  shelf,  completed  the  furniture  of  the 
parlor  and  family  room.  In  this  obscure  dwelling  the 
beginnings  of  their  princely  fortunes  were  made,  and 
it  is  to  their  credit,  that  they  do  oo1  try  to  conceal 
their  humble  origin.  A  wealthy  member  of  the  family 
has  a  beautiful  villa  near  the  city;  and  they  have  a 
hanking  house  not  two  squares  oil'  from  this  si  reet. 

The  town-hall,  or  "  Romer,"  is  a  very  old  building 
of  the  15th  century,  not  attractive  except  for  i-- 
historical  associations,  as  the  scene  of  the  ceremonies 

12 


tfO  HOME     LETTERS. 

attending  the  election  of  the  Emperors,  and  the  place 
where  the  festivities  succeeding  their  coronation  were 
celebrated.  The  walls  of  the  banqueting-room,  where 
the  Emperors  were  entertained  and  waited  on  at  table 
by  kings  and  princes,  are  covered  with  their  portraits 
(52)  in  the  order  of  succession.  At  the  end  of  the  hall 
is  the  "  Judgment  of  Solomon,"  and  in  the  election 
chamber  the  Senate  of  Frankfort  holds  its  sittings. 
The  floor  of  this  room,  has  a  surface  as  smooth  as  a 

polished  mirror;   an  incautious   step   extended  J 

full  length  upon  his  back,  and  as  no  injury  resulted, 
we  had  a  joke  at  his  expense.  In  front  of  the  building 
is  an  open  place  or  square,  called  the  Romerberg, 
which  down  to  1700  no  Jew  was  allowed  to  cross. 
"  Upon  the  occasion  of  the  Imperial  coronation  an  ox 
was  roasted  whole,  from  which  the  arch-steward  cut  a 
slice  for  the  Emperor,  a  fountain  flowed  with  wine, 
from  which  the  cup  bearer  filled  his  glass,  and  the 
marshal  distributed  corn  from  a  silver  measure.  The 
people  enjoyed  the  privilege,  of  appropriating  the 
scarlet  cloth,  upon  which  the  Emperor  walked  from 
the  cathedral.  So  greedily  was  it  cut  away,  behind 
him,  as  he  -passed,  that  he  ran  the  risk  of  having  his 
heels  cut  also."  The  cathedral  is  chiefly  remarkable 
on  account  of  the  coronation  of  the  Emperors  of 
Germany,  having  taken  place  within  it.  In  the 
election  chapel  the  Emperor  was  chosen  ;  and  forty-six 
Emperors  after  having  gained  their  election,  have 
been  crowned  in  front  of  the  high  altar.  Here  we  saw 
(and  sat  in)  the  chair  in  which  the  Emperor  sat  in 
church,  and  it  was  wide  enough  to  seat  a  renowned 
"Daddy  Lambert."  On  our  way  back  to  the  hotel, 
we  drove  along  the  river  front  and  saw  a  handsome 
old  bridge  over  the  Main,  connecting  Frankfort  with 
the    suburb    of  "  Sachsenhausen,"    a   very   old   town 


FROM     ABROAD.  /;/ 

founded  by  ( Iharlemagne.  In  the  middle  of  the  bridge 
was  a  statue  of  him,  and  Dear  to  it  is  a  gilded  cock 
perched  on  an  iron  pole;  according  to  tradition,  the 
architecl  vowed  that  the  firsl  living  thing  that  crossed 
the  bridge  should  be  sacrificed  to  the  devil  ;  and  a 
hapless  cock  became  the  victim. 

We  had  an  hour  to  rest  before  dinner,  al  •">  p.  if. 
Our  bill  of  fare  was  much  the  same  as  on  the  day 
before  Table-d'hote  dinners  are  so  tediously  pro- 
longed, by  serving  such  delectable  little  tid-bits,  that 
they  only  provoke  hunger,  instead  of  satisfying  it. 
Pastry  we  never  see,  so  we  conclude  that  it  is  either 
considered  unhealthy  or  unfashionable.  We  leave  for 
Homburg  at  eight  this  evening,  only  one  hour*-  ride 
from  this  city. 

Sunday,  August  11.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  I) have  --one 

to  church,  and  J has  gone  in  search  of  a  Pres- 
byterian house  of  worship;  as  he  had  no  definite  in- 
formation to  guide  him,  I  determined  to  remain  in 
doors.  We  reached  this  fashionable  watering  place 
last  evening,  at  nine  o'clock,  and  as  it  was  Saturday 
night,  we  had  considerable  trouble  to  secure  quarters. 
Our  first  application  was  at  the  "Hotel  Bellevue,"  de. 
lightfully  located  in  front  of  the  public  garden.-:  but 
no  rooms  could  be  had,  "all  full."  Our  coachman  re- 
commended a  new  hoarding  house  situated  on  the  out- 
skirts of  the  town,  which,  when  we  saw.  we  declined 
to  ask  accommodations,  and  drove  hack  to  the  main 
street.  The  "Hotel  de  R-ussie"  was  also  full  to  over- 
flowing, hut  the  gentlemanly  son  of  the  proprietor 
offered  to  get  for  us  rooms  at  a  private  house  adjoining. 
Our  escort-  were  commissioned  to  inspect  them:  Mrs. 

D and  myself  remaining  in  the  carriage  to  wait 

their  report;  after  an  absence  of  twenty  minutes,  they 


172  HOME     LETTERS. 

came  back  to  say  they  had  only  the  merit  of  being 
clean  ;  they  were  carpetless,  but  not  entirely  comfort- 
less, so  we  decided  to  get  out,  as  the  probabilities  were 
that  we  might  wander  about  half  the  night,  and  do  no 
better.  We  mounted  up  three  pairs  of  narrow  wooden 
stairs,  landed  on  a  small  platform,  upon  which  opened 
four  doors ;  the  first  door  we  entered  introduced  us  into 
a  pleasant  little  sitting-room  for  two  communicating 
bed-rooms.  It  was  not  so  bad  as  the  gentlemen  had 
represented,  and  we  at  once  determined  to  be  comfort- 
able ;  took  off  our  bonnets,  ordered  tea,  and  sat  around 
the  centre-table  to  enjoy  it.  Three  front  windows  look 
directly  out  upon  the  principal  street,  and  across  the 
way  is  the  public  gambling  house  in  the  full  glare  of 
gas  light,  brilliantly  gay,  with  crowds  of  well  dressed 

people  passing  in  and  out;  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  D 

feeling  refreshed  by  our  tea,  could  not  resist  the  temp- 
tation, and  went  over  to  inspect  the  crowd  a  little 
closer.  The  gaming  tables  were  crowded  with  young 
and  old  men,  women,  young  girls,  and  boys  not  out  of 
their  teens,  all  intently  absorbed  in  play,  and  one  pretty 
little  girl  interested  them,  by  her  youth,  and  the 
desperation  with  which  she  continued  to  risk  her 
money,  after  having  lost  heavily,  and  then  assuming  an 
air  of  nonchalance  quite  foreign  to  her  real  feelings. 
An  old  German  Countess,  who  sat  near  her,  was  win- 
ning large  sums  at  every  turn  of  the  wheel,  yet  this 
old  woman  is  seventy  years  of  age,  and  a  cripple  ;  she  is 
carried  in  and  out  of  the  building  by  her  attendant,  and 
the  hours  of  each  day  during  the  season  she  spends  in 
play,  losing  and  gaining ;  it  is  the  excitement  that  she 
seeks,  and  a  desire,  perhaps,  to  obliterate  from  her 
memory  the  sins  of  her  past  life  (that  have  not  been 
few),  and  to  deaden  the  fearful  apprehensions  of  a  com- 
ing future,  for  which  she  is  so  unprepared.     This  morn- 


/         '  /  •//  '  *  'J  * 


s< (t  /-  v'  < 1 . '  <      /  /       ,,',.,,  '.v  ,  i 


/■  S  0  M     .1  B  E  OA  />.  /;.; 

ing,  aa  we  Bat  at  breakfast,  by  the  open  window,  she 
passed,  stopping  opposite  the  Kursaal,  her  servanl  car- 
pied  her  to  her  usual  Sabbath  day's upation  ;  for  tin- 
day  is  no  restriction,  it'  possible,  it  is  one  of  seemingly 
greater  License. 

Monday,  August  /'.'.  We  have  been  out  for  a  drive 
of  five  or  six  miles,  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  pass- 
ing through  a  dense  wood,  where  wrv  good  road-  have 
beeu  made.  We  found  the  heat  so  oppressive,  that  we 
were  glad  to  return  to  the  pleasant  gardens  about  the 
springs;  they  are  beautifully  laid  out,  and  gay  with 
flowers  of  every  shade  of  color.  At  night  the  gardens 
are  illuminated  by  a  hundred  lamps,  and  as  the  Light 
is  mellowed  by  passing  through  ground  glass  shades, 
it  is  not  a  difficult  matter  to  imagine  yourself  in  some 
enchanted  resort  of  the  fairies.  The  waters  here,  are 
said  to  be  \rr\  valuable  in  cases  of  diseased  stomach 
and  liver,  with  neither  of  which  maladies  are  we 
troubled,  so  we  have  not  tested  their  efficacy,  but  to 
the  larger  proportion  of  these  summer  excursionists 
they  are  the  least  of  all  the  attractions  of  the  town;  for 
gambling,  and  its  attendant  excitements,  are  the  great 
inducements  that  bring  them  to  these  places  of  resort. 
The  gambling  house  here,  is  a  much  Larger  and  more 
showy  building  than  the  one  at  Wiesbaden;  and  its 
interior  decorations  and  arrangements  are  said  to  be 
more  splendid  and  expensive  than  any  other  house  of 
the  kind  in  Europe.  It  is  the  property  of  the  Prince  of 
Ilesse-llomburg,  and  from  which  he  receives  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  his  revenue,  to  the  destruction  of  all 
morality  and  honesty  among  his  own  subjects,  as  well 
as  among  thousands  of  strangers.  The  building  con- 
tains  dining,  coffee,  smoking  and  reading-rooms,  where 
all  the   English  and  foreign   papers  are  kept  on  tile. 


27  ^  HOME     LETTERS. 

Balls  and  concerts  are  of  weekly  occurrence.  "We 
passed  an  hour  looking  at  the  insanely  infatuated  peo- 
ple playing  at  "  Rouge-et-Xoir."  The  old  Countess 
pissing  was  at  her  seat,  and  in  front  of  her  were  three 
piles  of  gold,  and  any  quantity  of  small  silver  coin. 
She  is  so  wealthy,  that  she  cannot  in  any  reasonable 
way  spend  her  income  ;  so  she  gambles  for  pastime  and 
excitement,  and  yesterday  (Sunday)  she  lost  a  thousand 
dollars.  We  have  learned  something  of  her  history, 
but  it  will  not  bear  a  repetition  here. 

I  did  not  tell  you  how  we  passed  the  day.     J 

went  to  church  twice ;  in  the  morning  at  the  English 
Episcopal,  and  in  the  evening  we  went  together  to  the 
Palace  Chapel  of  the  Prince  of  Hesse-Homburg.  It 
was  a  gloomy,  dilapidated  old  palace,  not  worthy  the 
name  of  a  princely  residence;  the  little  chapel  was 
plain  and  old-fashioned  in  the  extreme,  and  not  in  the 
least  pretty  or  attractive.  A  young  Scotchman  preached 
an  earnest  and  very  good  practical  sermon.  They  used 
Rouse's  version  of  the  Psalms,  and  as  we  passed  out  a 
man  stood  at  the  door  to  receive  contributions.  I  do 
not  remember  to  have  mentioned  that  they  harness 
cows,  and  make  them  draw  heavy  loads.  In  Frankfort 
we  saw  two  or  three  miserable-looking  animals  attached 
to  market  wagons,  and  to-day  we  saw  four.  The  milk 
used  in  this  hotel  is  served  in  a  small  cart  drawn  by 
one  big  dog,  and  this  morning,  a  woman,  who  had  it 
in  charge,  carried  it  into  the  house,  while  Carlo 
stretched  himself  out  to  rest  until  she  was  through, 
and  when  called  he  jumped  up  cheerfully  and  trotted 
off  again  with  his  load.  Fruit  is  very  abundant ; 
grapes,  apricots,  and  plums  in  any  quantity,  and  at 
small  cost,  but  the  gentlemen  grieve  more  about  the 
loss  of  corn  than  anything  beside.  We  have  been 
talking  about  our  future  plans,  and  our  route  beyond 


FROM     ABROAD. 

this  point ;  but  we  have  aol  ye1  decided  upon  any  defi- 
nite choice  of  arrangement.  I  would  prefer  the  river 
route,  but  the  others  give  the  preference  to  the  railway 
as  being  more  expeditious,  and  all  agree  in  saying  the 

Rhine  above  Mayence  is  tame.    J is  very  desirous 

to  visit  Worms,  to  see  with  his  own  eyes  the  m«  mora- 
ble  old  city,  and  the  spot,  if  not  the  building,  in 
which  was  held  the  diet  at  which  Luther  appeared 
In  tore  Charles  Fifth. 

Heidelberg  is  another  famous  old  city,  celebrated  for 
its  University,  and  its  beautiful  castle,  now  in  ruins, 
that  we  shall  feel  an  interest  in  visiting,  bu1  beyond 
that,  we  do  not  care  to  tarry  long  until  we  attain  the 

region  of  the  Alps.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  D wish  to  see 

something  more  of  the  springs,  and  the  fashionable  life 
surrounding  them,  and  will  probably  tarry  at  Baden- 
Baden,  some  time.  The  Grand  Duke  has  a  villa  there. 
and  it  is  said  that  during  the  season,  princes  and  prin- 
cess<  -  may  be  met  with  at  every  turn  ;  but  we  are  get- 
ting somewhat  surfeited  with  seeing  such  grandees,  for 
the  t  ruth  must  he  told,  they  look^dress,  walk)  and  eat  very 
much  as  other  mortals  do.  We  have  paid  our  last  visit 
to  the  "Kursaal,"  standing  a  half  hour  to  witness  the 
games  and  the  infatuated  people  that  were  the  actors 
in  them,  and  among  the  number  was  old  Countess 
Kissing,  a  miserable  insane  old  woman,  just  standing 
on  the  verge  of  the  grave,  with  no  thought  for  eternity. 
Xo  one  is  allowed  to  sit  at  or  about  these  tables  hut 
those  that  are  participants  in  the  game-,  and  to  stand 
tor  any  length  of  time,  even  to  gratify  one'-  curiosity, 
i-  fatiguing. 

Tuesday,  August  18.  Half-past  tune  in  the  evening 
finds  us  seated  in  an  upper  room,  beside  an  open  win- 
dow, in  the  hotel  "  Alten   Kaiser."  in  the  old  city  of 


276  HOME     LETTERS. 

Worms.  Looking  out,  I  see  within  a  stone's  throw, 
the  old  cathedral,  with  its  two  towers.  We  are  well 
pleased  that  we  carried  out  our  determination,  and  that 
we  are  here  in  this  memorable  old  place.  The  hour 
was  half-past  seven  when  we  landed  at  the  depot,  a 
mile  outside  of  the  town.  ISTo  carriages  were  waiting 
to  receive  passengers,  only  one  small,  dirty,  old  omni- 
bus, connected  with  this  house ;  which,  we  suppose,  is 
the  only  one  in  the  place  open  for  the  accomodation  of 
strangers,  who  may  be  led  either  by  religious  interest 
or  curiosity  to  visit  the  town.  But  it  was  only  the 
conveyance  to  the  house  that  was  shabby,  for  the  hotel 
itself  is  quite  comfortable,  and  arranged  as  all  European 
houses  of  entertainment  are,  with  an  open  court  en- 
trance, the  doors  inside,  and  the  lower  floor  occupied 
by  offices,  dining  and  coffee-rooms.  Our  chamber,  on 
the  second  floor  front,  looking  out  upon  the  main 
street,  is  well  and  neatly  furnished,  with  sofas  and 
chairs  covered  with  crimson  plush ;  two  beds,  a  wash- 
stand,  and  a  centre-table,  at  which  J and  I  are 

seated  writing.  Our  supper  was  very  neatly  served, 
and  well  prepared, — roast  chicken,  bread  and  butter, 
with  an  excellent  cup  of  tea.     We  separated  from  Mr. 

and  Mrs.  D at  Frankfort,  they  going  directly  on 

to  Heidelberg,  there  to  wait  our  coming,  where  we 
shall  join  them  to-morrow.  We  left  Homburg  at  one 
o'clock,  walking  a  half  mile  to  the  depot,  and  buying 
photographs  on  our  way  down.  One  hour  brought  us 
to  Frankfort,  where  we  changed  cars  for  Mayence,  and 
another  hour's  ride  landed  us  in  the  depot  in  that  old 
city,  a  photographic  view  of  which  I  remember  to  have 
in  my  scrap-book,  at  home.  The  original,  quite  dis- 
pelled the  impression  formed  by  that  hazy  picture  of 
its  being  a  most  charming  and  attractive  city,  however, 
it  is  not  just  to  express  a  decided  opinion  one  way  or 


F  11  0  M      A  11  11  o  A  1>. 


//, 


another,  as  our  opportunity  forjudging  correctly  was 
limited  to  a  stroll  of  an  hour  only,  in  a  walk  of  a  dozen 
squares  near  the  dep6t,  in  the  oldesl  pari  of  the  town. 
A\'e  looknl  round  and  through  an  old  church  thai  was 
undergoing  repairs,  outside  of  wjiich  was  a  hideous 
representation  in  wood  of  the  crucifixion  of  Christ, 
and  in  fronl  of  which  were  two  or  three  workmen  in 
the  attitude  of  prayer.     Mayence  was  the  birth-place 

of  Joint  Guttenberg,  the  inventor  of  types;  bu1  J 

will  ao1  remember  thai  fad  with  as  much  interesl  as 
the  kiss  he  stole  from  a  'pretty  baby  thai  he  saw  asleep  in 
its  mother's  arms. 

M.  C.  A. 


17$  HOME     LETTERS. 


Heidelberg,  Thursday  Morning, 
August  15,  1867. 

I  take  M 's  place  to  fill  out  her  letter  home,  as 

she  does  not  feel  very  well  this  morning,  and  is  still 
resting,  having  had  a  good  deal  of  headache  all  night. 
I  write  from  our  hotel  in  Heidelberg,  which  we  reached 
yesterday  about  2  p.  m.,  after  a  very  hot  ride,  several 
hours  distant  from  our  place  of  departure,  where  we 
sojourned  over  night,  in  the  ancient  city  of  Worms, 

where  M 's  account  left  us  when  she  ceased  writing. 

On  Tuesday,  the  night  of  our  arrival  at  Worms,  our 
sleep  was  very  much  broken  by  the  incessant  noise  in 
the  street  below,  which  is  paved,  as  are  most  of  the 
GTerman  cities,  with  square  blocks  of  stone,  and  between 
the  tramp  of  horses  and  the  rattle  of  wagons,  and  the 
noise  of  many  voices,  we  were  unable  to  obtain  any 
rest  that  was  refreshing ;  then  we  arose  at  six  o'clock, 
very  early  for  us,  for  we  have  gotten  out  of  our  regular 
home  habit ;  we  had  our  breakfast  served  in  our  own 
room,  which  consisted  of  very  good  coffee,  and  bread — 
much  better  than  we  have  had  anywhere  since  leaving 
Paris.  To  my  surprise  in  Belgium,  Holland,  Prussia, 
and  all  the  German  States,  the  bread  has  been  very 
inferior  to  that  which  we  obtained  in  France  and  in 
Ireland.  We  have  also  a  delicious  fish  from  the 
Rhine,  large  and  of  excellent  flavor,  with  a  German 
name  which  I  cannot  remember.  After  breakfast  we 
hired  a  carriage  from  the  landlord,  (as  there  are  no 
public  hacks  in  the  place,)  for  which  he  wanted  to 
charge  us  more  than  double  the  Paris  rates,  but  which 
I  refused  to  give  him,  then  he  abated  his   demand. 


FROM     ABROAD.  I ;  [, 

Our  coachman  was  in  livery,  we  drove  through  the 
city,  and  saw  in  a  short  time  all  that  \\a-  worth  Beeing 
in  it.  We  were  taken  firsl  to  the  monument  of 
Luther,  now  in  process  of  erection,  it  is  to  1"'  but- 
rounded  by  four  statues  of  reformers  contemporaneous 
with  him.  It  promises  to  be  very  enduring,  it* 
permanence  can  be  anticipated  of  anything  here,  where 
society  is  in  a  ferment,  and  where  revolution  is  only 
kept  down  by  the  immense  standing  armies,  which 
hold  in  check  the  rising  spirit  of  the  people.  I  was 
informed  by  a  professor  in  the  University  of  Edin- 
burgh, (a  native  of  Worms,  now  making  a  visit  to  the 
place  of  his  birth,)  that  the  statue  of  Luther  is 
finished,  and  ready  to  be  set  up,  the  site  of  the  monu- 
ment is  quite  close  to  the  cathedral,  and  very  near  to 
the  spot  where  Luther  stood  when  in  the  presence  of 
the  Emperor  and  of  his  Diet,  when  called  on  t<>  recant, 
gave  utterance  to  the  memorable  declaration:  "  Here  I 
stand;  I  cannot  go  forward ;  Icannotgo  backwards;  so 
//,///  im  God"  I  imagined  I  could  see  the  sturdy  figure 
of  the  heroic  reformer,  in  the  presence  of  principalities 
and  powers,  counting  life  itself  as  nol  to  he  weighed  in 
exchange  for  the  truth.  He  stood  on  that  immovable 
rock,  justification  by  faith,  from  which  as  he  declared, 
he  could  neit  her  advance  nor  retreat .  and  there  a  power 
mightier  than  himself,  enabled  him  to  continue  to 
stand.  In  this  doctrine  there  was  nothing  new: 
Luther  only  held  it  up  to  view,  stripped  of  the  errors 
and  supperstitions,  with  which  centuries  of  ignorance 
and  ecclesiastical  corruption  had  obscured  it.  This 
city,  which  once  numbered  forty  thousand  inhabitants, 
has  now  only  about  twelve  thousand.  It  was  many 
years  ago  an  imperial  free  city  of  great  commercial  and 
political  importance;  and  is  famous  in  history  as  the 
place  where  the  Emperor  Charlemagne  celebrated  his 


2S0  HOME     LETTERS. 

marriage;  and  where  he  convened  his  early  assemblies 
of  Franks,  constituting  a  rude  Parliament,  from  which 
our  assemblies  date  their  origin.  Worms  was  burned, 
and  almost  totally  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689, 
and  has  never  regained  its  prosperity ;  but  it  is  now 
reviving;  of  this  the  many  new  and  handsome  houses 
after  the  Paris  style,  which  we  saw  in  our  drive,  give 
evidence. 

"We  next  drove  to  the  Elm  tree,  outside  of  the  city, 
where  Luther  was  met  by  a  deputation  of  his  friends, 
who  tried  to  persuade  him  to  turn  back,  assuring  him 
that  a  plot  to  assassinate  him  had  been  discovered,  and 
that  if  he  entered  he  would  never  leave  Worms  alive. 
The  tree  is  very  large,  six  or  seven  feet  in  diameter, 
and  is  protected  by  an  iron  railing,  outside  of  which 
are  stone  seats,  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers 
who  make  a  pilgrimage  to  this  spot.  We  saw  several 
persons  who  live  in  the  neighborhood.  I  made  them 
understand  we  were  from  the  United  States,  and  had 
come  to  Worms  because  of  Luther's  association  with 
it,  they  seemed  pleased,  shook  hands  at  parting;  one 
man  uncovered  his  head  as  he  bowed  to  us  his  adieu. 
On  our  return  to  the  city  we  visited  the  cathedral, 
which  has  been  a  magnificent  structure,  but  is  now  fast 
falling  into  decay,  for  the  rain  is  making  its  way 
through  the  roof  and  arches  overhead  ;  and  the  walls 
are  damp  and  water-stained ;  neglect,  decay  and  de- 
parted glory  is  written  over  them  all.  A  society  has 
lately  been  formed  to  rescue  it  from  ruin,  and  if  possi- 
ble restore  it  to  its  former  condition.  For  religious 
services  it  is  little  valued  by  the  citizens  of  Worms ;  a 
seat  in  the  choir,  where  the  chapter  of  the  cathedral 
formerly  sat,  rents  now  for  two  shillings  a  year.  What 
a  commentary  upon  the  grandeur  of  this  earth  which 
passeth  away  !     Charles  V.  would  be  horrified  if  he 


v.  (i  <'  /  '  -        < 


, ..  -,l' 


■/.. 


DEP 


/■  R  0  M     A  B  8  0  A  I) . 

could  revisil  this  building,  tread  again  these  aisles 
qow  almosl  deserted,  and  witness  the  ruin  whch  has 
supplanted  a  power,  which  he  doubtless  thoughl  was  to 
endure  for  all  time.  At  the  cathedral  we  dismissed  our 
carriage  for  a  Btroll  through  the  city,  and  at  a  book 
store,  a  pleasant  young  German,  who  could  speak  a 
little  English,  showed  us  a  volume  of  sermons  in  maim- 
script,  bound  in  leather,  which  were  written  aboul  the 
time  America  was  discovered,  then  we  purchased  a  I'^w 
photographs,  and  returned  to  our  hotel,  taking  our  de- 
parture from  Worms  !>ef<>re  dinner. 

I  had  an  amusing  time  with  a  conductor,  who  tried 
to  make  me  understand  that  the  train  to  Eeidelberg 
would  be  along  at  a  quarter  past  two  o'clock.  I  could 
understand  the  two  very  well,  bul  the  added  minute-  I 
could  not  make  out,  so  L  took  out  my  watch  and 
pointed  to  the  figures  on  its  face,  but  he  seemed  to 
understand  my  signs  as  little  as  L  understood  his  lan- 
guage; I  surmised  that  it  was  a  quarter  he  meant,  and 
just  then  a  German  word,  that  I  had  not  heard  or 
thoughl  of  for  twenty-five  years,  came  into  my  head, 
and  L  said  to  him,  " Szwi  and  fattle."  This  lie  under- 
stood, and  answering  me,  Ya,  ya,  szwi  and  fattle."  I 
have  found  the  few  German  words,  the  meaning  of 
which  I  learned  by  hearing  others  use  them,  when  I 
was  a  boy,  of  ereal  service  to  me;  and  between  signs 
and  a  word  here  and  there,  we  have  gotten  along  very 
well.  When  we  were  about  leaving  the  car  at  Mav- 
ence,  the  day  hefmv,  I  could  not  make  the  conductor 
understand  my  question,  "  Do  we  change  car-  here  for 
Worms'.'"*  and  was  at  a  loss  to  know  what  to  do, 
whether  to  gel  out,  or  sit  still.  In  the  car  with  as 
were  two  very  respectable-looking  ladies  and  a  gentle- 
man; one  of  the  ladies  noticing  our  embarrassment, 
asked  the  conductor  for  us,  and  then  in  tolerably  g I 


182  BO  ME     LETTERS. 

English  said, "  Yes  we  change  cars."  I  said  to  her, "  You 
speak  English  ?"  She  answered, "  Yes,  it  is  taught  in 
the  schools  of  our  country."  She  said  they  were  Hol- 
landers, and  not  Germans.  I  told  her  we  had  just  been 
in  Holland,  and  that  my  wife  was  of  Holland  ancestry, 
on  her  mother's  side,  and  that  the  interest  we  had  in 
the  country  had  taken  us  there  to  see  it.  They  seemed 
pleased  by  what  I  told  them,  but  as  they  stopped  at 

Mayence,  we  soon  parted.      After  M and  I  had 

taken  a  meal  at  the  restaurant,  we  strolled  out  to  view 
the  city.  Near  to  the  depot,  there  is  a  very  high  tower, 
with  a  massive  gateway  beneath,  which  is  pierced  with 
small  windows  to  its  top.  The  wall  of  this  tower  is 
very  thick,  and  in  former  days  would  have  constituted 
a  formidable  barrier  in  the  way  of  an  attacking  army, 
but,  with  the  advance  in  military  engineering  and  im- 
proved artillery,  would  now  be  of  little  account.  The 
walls  of  the  old  cities  of  Europe  are  fast  passing  away, 
they  were  taking  down  the  one  which  for  centuries  had 
enclosed  Antwerp  when  we  were  there,  and  converting 
the  bed  of  it  into  a  boulevard. 

As  we  passed  along  the  street,  I  saw  a  German 
woman  carrying  a  baby  in  her  arms,  and  holding  a 
parasol  over  it  to  shield  it  from  the  sun.  I  took  the 
liberty  of  stopping  the  mother,  who  at  first  did  not  un- 
derstand me,  but  when  I  placed  the  little  dumpy  hand 
of  her  sleeping  child  in  my  own  and  softly  touched 
its  cheek,  which  was  plump,  clean  and  rosy,  and  then 
stooped  down  and  kissed  it,  it  needed  not  the  words 
schonis  kind,  handsome  child,  to  explain  to  the  mother 
my  action,  or  the  feeling  which  prompted  it.  The 
smile  that  lighted  up  her  face,  and  the  delighted  look 
which  she  gave  me  in  return,  showed  that  there  is  a 
way  to  reach  a  mother's  heart  which  needs  not  words  to 
give  it  expression.     There  is  something  in  the  innocent 


FROM     ABROAD.  /.v.; 

appearance  of  a  pretty  baby  thai  always  appeals  to  the 

warmesl  sympathies  of  my  heart,  and  M laughed 

at  me,  and  said  she  believed  I  was  baby  mad  ;  bul  this 
is  a  digression,  and  I  mnsl  hasten  back  to  my  narra- 
tive We  passed  on  our  way  here  through  Manheim, 
which  is  a  city  of  about  thirty  thousand  inhabitants. 
It  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Palatinate,  and  was 
several  times  destroyed  in  the  wars  which  from  time 
to  time  have  swept  over  and  through  this  part  of  the 
world;  it  lias  in  it  the  palace  in  which  the  elector 
Philip  lived  in  1720,  when  he  removed  his  capita] 
from  Heidelberg  to  Manheim.  We  had  no1  time  to  go 
through  the  town  fearing  thai  we  would  be  lefl  by  the 
train,  hut  what  we  saw  of  it,  as  we  passed  by  it  in  the 
ears,  made  a  pleasant  impression.  A  large  number  of 
English  people  have  taken  up  their  residence  at  Man- 
heim, on  account  of  the  cheapness  of  living.  It  is  but 
a  short  ride  by  rail  to  Heidelberg,  which  we  reached 
without  adventure  of  any  kind,  except  having  for  our 
companions,  four  ladies,  either  English  or  American; 
the  younger  of  whom  had  a  pet  Italian  grayhound, 
about  half  the  size  of  Cute,  which  she  smuggled  into 
the  ear,  very  much  to  her  delight.  She  said  the  con- 
ductor would  not  allow  it  if  he  had  discovered  it.  I 
helped  the  ladies  in  with  their  bags  and  bundles, 
which  were  very  numerous,  and  for  which  I  v 
thanked  by  the  mother  of  the  party.  I  find  that  kind- 
ness and  politeness  go  very  far  to  make  our  way  plea- 
sant in  travelling.     At  Heidelberg  we  found  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  D ,  who  had  come  on  directly  to  this   point 

from  Homburg,  this  morning  they  are  out  riding, 
having  gone  to  pay  a  second  visit  to  the  castle,  now  in 
ruins.  To-day  they  go  in  advance  of  us  to  Baden- 
Baden,  the  most  famous  watering  place  in  Germany, 
and  we  will  probably  follow  them  to-morrow,  where 


184  HOME     LETTERS. 

we  expect  to  stay  over  Sunday,  and  then  on  Monday 
hope  to  leave  for  Basle,  at  which  point  we  enter 
Switzerland,  but  our  friends  will  tarry  longer  at 
Baden,    perhaps    a    week.      Last    evening    when    we 

reached   this    point    M had    headache,    and    no 

wonder;  she  had  little  rest  the  night  before,  and 
the  journey  had  been  made  in  the  heat  of  the  day  ; 
after  dinner,  feeling  better,  she  thought  she  could 
take  the  ride  up  the  mountain  and  round  by 
the  castle,  which  our  friends  proposed.  We  did  not 
get  back  to  the  hotel  until  half-past  eight  o'clock,  and 
then  neuralgia  produced  by  exhaustion  caused  her 
sleepless  suffering  all  night.  We  have  kept  quiet  to- 
day, and  have  remained  in  our  rooms  to  write,  while 
our  friends  are  out  riding.  So  here  we  are  for  the 
present  in  the  famous  old  city  of  Heidelberg ;  more 
famous  for  what  it  has  been  in  the  past  than  for  what 
it  is  at  the  present  day.  So  often  has  it  been  ravaged 
by  contending  armies,  that  few  of  its  buildings,  public 
or  private,  have  much  claim  to  beauty  ;  it  has  some 
showy  houses,  and  many  that  are  very  old  and  poor. 
Its  University,  one  of  the  largest  in  Europe,  counting 
the  number  of  its  students,  has  but  a  very  plain  build- 
ing in  the  middle  of  the  town  for  their  accommodation. 
We  saw  a  number  of  them  at  the  heights  above  the 
castle  last  evening,  drinking  Rhine  wine,  of  which 
every  pefson  seems  to  partake  freely,  and  it  is  the 
rarest  occurrence  to  see  any  one  make  a  meal  without 
wine,  except  it  be  their  early  breakfast,  which  mostly 
consists  of  bread,  butter  and  coffee.  The  Germans 
keep  up  their  old  custom  of  dinner  at  one  o'clock,  while 
in  Paris  they  breakfast  at  eleven  and  dine  at  five  or 
six.  A  waiter  at  the  hotel  told  us  that  the  students 
often  fought  among  themselves,  and  always  aimed  to 
cut  each  other  about  the  face  or  neck,  so  that  whoever 


FROM     ABROAD. 

was  wounded  *•» >ul<l  never  deny  the  injury  which  the 
other  had  inflicted  on  him,  and  of  this  we  had  evidence 
which  seemed  a  confirmation  of  the  statement.  <  In  our 
w;i\-  up  the  Rhine,  a1  Bonn,  famous  also  for  its  I  ni- 
yersity,  a  number  of  the  students  came  on  the  boat  on 
which  we  were,  one  of  them  had  a  severe  gash  on  his 
cheek  and  another  on  his  neck,  which  were  quite  fresh, 

scarcely  healed  over.     By  the  way,  did  M tell  you 

what  a  rudesel  of  fellows  they  were?  how  they  gathered 
aboul  us,  whilsl  we  took  our  meal  on  the  deck  of  the 
steamer,  smoked,  performed  all  kinds  of  antics,  made 
their  jocose  remarks  in  German,  and  coming  so  close  to 
us  as  to  interfere  with  the  comfort  of  our  meal,  sat  near 
taring  to  stare  the  ladies  out  of  countenance  ;  we  were 
glad  when  these  specimens  of  Prussian  aristocracy  left 
us.      In  America  such  conduct  would  simply  be  im- 
possible.     On   our  way  from   Amsterdam   to   Cologne, 
two  men,  evidently  of  substance  and  culture,  came  into 
tbe  car  in  whicb  we  were  ;  before  entering  they  wished 
us  to  leave,  as   they  desired  to  smoke.      The  train  was 
about  to  move  off  and  we  were  compelled  to  remain  ;  the 
coupe  held  only  eight  persons  including  our  own  party  : 
two  other  Americans,  and  the  two  Germans.      After  a 
while  one  of  the  Germans  pulled  out  bis  cigar  case, 
lighted   a   cigar   and   began    to   smoke.      One   of  the 
Americans,  who  spoke  German,  remonstrated,  bul  the 
smoker  persisted,  said  though  it  was  offensive  to  the 
ladies  be  would  smoke  nevertheless,  and  a- we  could 
not  prevent  it  we  had  to  submil  ;  but  after  awhile  our 
turn  came;  the  window  by  which  I  sat  was  raised  and 
tbe  current  of  air  was   uncomfortable  to  tbe  smoker, 
and  without  as  much  as  saying  by  your  leave,  he  closed 
it.     When  betook  bis  seat  I  put  the  window  up  again: 
placed    my  band  on   it.   and  requested  the   American 
Professor,  who  spoke  German  to  say  to  him,  that  if  he 

13 


186  HOME     LETTERS. 

had  the  right  to  smoke,  he  had  no  right  to  suffocate  us ; 
we  looked  at  each  other  full  in  the  face,  then  he  yielded 
the  point,  and  thought  it  best  not  to  push  matters  any 
farther.  Before  he  left  the  car  he  begged  Madame's 
pardon. 

To  return  from  my  digression  ;  the  castle  to  which 
we  drove  last  evening  is  one  of  most  magnificent  ruins 

in  Europe,  and  Mr.  D ,  who  has  just  come  in,  on 

his  return  from  his  visit  of  the  morning,  is  in  raptures 
with  it ;  says  we  must  not  leave  Heidelberg  on  any  ac- 
count without  going  through  it.     Last  evening  when 

we  drove  there,  M was  feeling  so  sick  that  we 

contented  ourselves  with  a  look  at  the  walls  from 
the  extensive  court  yard,  beside,  it  was  too  late  to 
make  the  exploration.  In  its  earlier  days  the  castle 
was  a  fortification  of  immense  strength,  was  bombarded 
five  times,  twice  laid  in  ashes,  and  three  times  taken 
by  assault  and  delivered  over  to  pillage ;  and  was  last 
abandoned  by  the  Elector  Philip,  who  having  quarrelled 
with  the  people  of  Heidelberg,  removed  his  capital  to 
Manheim.  When  he  was  about  to  return,  some  years 
afterward,  the  castle  was  struck  by  lightning,  and  re- 
duced to  its  present  condition.     I  have  suggested,  and 

D says  it  "  is  a  splendid  idea,"  that  the  Elector  of 

Baden,  whose  property  it  is,  should  put  it  in  repair,  or 
give  it  to  the  citizens  of  Germany,  on  condition  that 
they  build  up  its  waste  places,  for  the  use  of  the 
University.  The  literary  importance  of  the  latter,  and 
its  reputation  as  an  ancient  seat  of  learning,  would  be 
well  linked  in  association  with  this  famous  castle,  and 
a  proud  history  they  might  yet  have  in  the  future, 
connecting  the  one  with  the  other.  The  castle,  looking 
at  it  from  the  window  at  which  I  am  writing,  does  not 
appear  to  be  much  above  the  town,  and  yet  in  our  ride 
to  it,  we  found  it  was  considerably  elevated,  planted  on 


FROM      A  II  E  0  A  D. 

the  side  of  the  hill  or  mountain,  which  rises  behind 
the  city.  Eeidelberg  1ms  an  old  church,  buill  of  sand- 
stone, which  has  a  wall  dividing  it  in  two,  Lengthwise, 
one  side  of  i1  is  devoted  to  the  Catholic,  and  the  other 
to  the  Protestanl  service;  perhaps  qo  other  church  can 
boast  of  the  possession  of  two  congregations  of  such 
opposite  creeds.  It  was,  originally  Catholic,  and  this 
was  the  compromise,  when  so  many  of  its  members 
abandoned  the  Church  of  Rome.  It  was  the  efforl  on 
the  part  of  the  Elector  Philip  to  restore  the  Protestant 
portion  of  the  building  to  the  Catholics,  that  ended  in 
quarrels,  which  caused  him  to  abandon  Heidelberg  as 
the  seat  of  his  government.     In  the  morning,  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  1) take  their  departure,  and  we  separate  with 

mutual  regrei  :  but  Mr.  J) 's  plans  and  ours  do  not 

agree  after  this,  and  I  suppose  we  have  ended  our 
sojourn  together.  M is  much  better;  and  to-mor- 
row will,  I  hope,  be  able  to  go  through  the  castle,  and 
the  next  day  to  Baden-Baden. 

Friday  morning,  August  16.    I  thoughl   I  had  ended 

my  letter  last  night,  but  it  was  too  late  to  mail  it,  and 
as  I  have  a  little  space  left,  I  will  send  a  salutation  to 
you  all.     Heidelberg,  the  mountains,  and  the  castle,  all 
appear  as  if  they  had  put  on  a  sombre  dress  this  morn- 
ing.    It  is  a  very  charming  picture  that  lies  spread  out 
before  me,  and  the  interest  which  centres  about  the  old 
city   and   castle,   increases    the    more   one   dwells    in 
thought  on  them.     Here  Luther,  and  the  reformers  of 
his  day,  performed  much  of  their  important  work,  and 
here  the  catechism,  which  took  its  name  from  this  eitv. 
was  prepared,  with  the  view  of  reconciling  differences 
which  developed  into  angry  controversy  between  tin-, 
who  held  to  the  views  of  Calvin  and  those  who  Bided 
with   Luther.      Our  apartment  in  the   hotel   is  very 


188 


HOME     LETTERS. 


comfortable,  and  quite  large,  and  unlike  most  of  the 
German  hotels ;  the  floors  are  carpeted,  and  the  room 
furnished  with  walnut  sofas  and  chairs,  covered  with 
velvet  plush.  Our  windows,  three  in  number,  are  hung 
with  long  muslin  curtains,  which  give  to  the  chamber 
quite  a  cheerful  and  homelike  aspect.  Then  above  all, 
the  view  upon  which  we  look  is  so  very  beautiful,  that 
altogether  we  have  good  reason  to  feel  content  with 
our  quarters.  Just  now  a  train  of  cars  swept  by,  and  it 
made  me  feel  like  going  home,  but  they  went  not  in 
the  direction  where  our  hearts  and  friends  are ;  yet  the 
time  will  come,  if  our  lives  are  spared,  when  we  will 
turn  our  faces  toward  Philadelphia  and  the  dear  trea- 
sures it  contains. 

J.  A. 


HEIDELBERG. 


i      <    <    /     ' 
7=1    ,  f I  Ife 


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ocj    -      iijj, 

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:     cil 


L»i      lE^I        l!Si        .BJ1 

libriil 


IiEKTIK*  »T  iC««KtI1irt. 


t;  Ban  naijsa  ay 

]!  li;ifj|2||  ll^li   ^ 

r^S — - ,- — ^feSBr  ^—  V:      


FROM     ABROAD.  />.'/ 


Mailed  at  Zurich, 

Saturday,  August 

I  have  been  von'  negligent  about  writing  for  the  : 
few  davs,  not  feeling  well,  \  have  been  averse  to  writing 

in  such  a  mood,  and  besides  J is  a  much  better 

acribe  than  myself,  and  has  written  you  in  detail  BO 
fully  about  Eeidelberg  and  its  surrounding  attractions, 
that  I  have  nothing  to  add  of  special  interest.  His 
letter  was  mailed  on  Friday,  the  day  thai  our  vi-it  was 
made  to  the  castle,  beautiful  in  ruins,  and  moremagnifi- 
cent  and  extensive  than  any  we  have  before  seen,  or 
will  probably  have  the  opportunity  of  -eeing  again. 
The  town  itself  consists  of  only  one  long  street,  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  between  the  river  Neckar 
and  the  eastle  hill.  Most  of  the  houses  are  very  plain, 
and  the  hotels  are  the  more  attractive  buildings  in  the 
place.  As  an  edifice  the  University  is  not  as  good  or 
as  >pacious  in  its  arrangements  as  our  High  School  on 
Broad  street,  and  the  library  is  a  separate  building, 
and  both  front  on  an  open  place  or  square  planted 
with  trees,  called  the  "  Ludwigs  Platz."  The  castle 
is  situated  on  a  mountain  slope,  "  three  hundred  and 
twenty-six  feet  above  the  river,"  from  which  the  m<  si 
beautiful  and  extensive  views  of  the  surroundii  _ 
country  may  be  had,  including  the  valleys  of  the  Rhine 
and  Neckar,  but  all  descriptions  of  scenery  are  tame  and 
irksome,  unless  you  have  seen  the  locality  in  person,  and 
had  its  glories  photographed  upon  your  memory;  bo  I 
will  nor  weary  you  with  my  verbiage.  A  little  incident 
occurred  about  twilight  last  evening  that  I  will  tell  for 
Perrin's   amusement.     Sitting   at    our   upper  window. 


2Q0  HOME     LETTERS. 

enjoying  the  distant  views  of  the  castle  and  the  sur- 
rounding mountains,  I  heard  the  sharp,  quick  clang  of 
a  tambourine,  followed  by  the  growl  of  a  bear.  Look- 
ing down,  I  saw  upon  the  pave,  two  big,  gray,  shaggy 
animals,  held  by  chains  in  the  hands  of  two  rough- 
looking  men.  A  crowd  was  soon  collected,  the  bears 
were  made  to  go  through  some  awkward  perform- 
ances— standing  on  their  hind  legs,  dancing,  and  last 
of  all,  holding  up  the  tambourine  to  catch  a  shower  of 
pennies  that  were  tossed  to  them  by  the  curious  throng ; 

while  J wasted  two  delicious  pears,  on  their  unap- 

preciating  taste,  to  amuse  himself  in  seeing  how 
quickly  they  gobbled  them  down.  Saturday  morning 
we  were  up  with  the  birds,  at  daybreak ;  had  an  early 
breakfast,  and  were  ready  for  the  half-past  nine  train 
for  Baden-Baden.  Three  German  watering-places 
ought  to  give  us  a  pretty  fair  insight  into  the 
fashionable  life  and  habits  of  the  German  people.  It 
was  a  hot  and  dusty  ride  of  five  hours,  through  a 
country  that,  for  the  eye,  had  no  especial  attractions, 
and  the  only  incident  worth  recalling  occurred  at 
Carlsruhe,  where  we  changed  cars  for  Baden.  In 
passing  from  one  train  to  the  other,  we  were  in  some 

doubt  about  which  was  our  car,  and  J addressing 

his  inquiry  to  a  liveried  servant  instead  of  a  conductor, 
saw  in  a  moment  his  mistake,  by  noticing  on  the  side 
of  that  particular  car  a  crown,  and  raising  his  eyes, 
they  rested  upon  Louis  Napoleon,  standing  at  the  door, 
and  the  Empress  sitting  beside  him,  looking  out ;  as  it 
was  rude  to  take  more  than  a  casual  glance,  we  passed 
on.  They  were  (as  we  had  seen  announced  in  the  Lon- 
don Times)  on  their  way  to  visit  the  King  of  Austria. 
If  they  had  their  attendants,  we  had  our  escort  too 
waiting  our  arrival  at  the  depot  in  Baden,  with  a 
warmer  welcome  than  they  will  probably  receive  at 


/"/,'  0  M     A  11 110  A  I).  iui 

the  end  of  their  journey.     Mr.  I) had  Becured  for 

us    comfortable    quarters    a1     the    hotel    "Victoria," 
(located  al  the  angle  of  two  streets    Place  Leopold 

ami  kept   by  Mr.  G ,a  brother-in-law's  brother  of 

our  neighbor  Mr.  Q .     Our   room    is  on   the  first 

floor,  easy  of  access,  and  comfortable,  for  one  of  J  -—'a 
great  aversions  is  to  mounting  stairs.  Our  firsl  impi 
sions  of  the  town  were  most  agreeable,  and  after  having 
seen  it  more  thoroughly  we  are  all  of  the  opinion  thai 
for  beauty  of  location,  variety  of  scenery,  and  local 
attraction-,  it  far  exceeds  either  Wiesbaden  or  Bom- 
burg.  The  drives  about  the  town  are  charming,  the 
mountain  views  are  grand  and  extended,  and  above 
and  around  the  place  arc  large  numbers  of  beautiful 
dwellings,  occupied  by  the  wealthy  summer  residents. 
The  Sabbath  day  was  spent  quietly  in  our  room,  rest- 
ing most  of  the  time  in  bed  up  to  dinner  hour,  five 
o'clock.  I  was  really  sick  and  despondent,  feeling  bo 
intensely  weak  and  miserable,  that  I  thought  I  had 
gone  quite  to  the  extent  of  my  ability,  and  that  my 
strength  was  a#  expended,  and  I  should  never  see  hornt 
again.  This  ended  in  >>  cry;  after  that  I  felt  better, 
and  the  next  day  (Monday)  I  rallied  again,  and  was 
able  to  make  one  of  the  party  to  visit  the  old  and  new 
castles,  the  latter  -ailed  new  only  to  distinguish  it 
from  the  one  in  ruins  above  it,  on  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  where  the  present  Duke's  ancestors  resided 
down  to  the  fourteenth  century,  when  the  house  below 
was  founded — an  ugly,  unattractive  building,  only  re- 
markable for  its  charmingly  beautiful  location,  over- 
looking a  great  extent  of  country,  and  its  intricate  and 
curious  dungeons  under  ground,  in  examining  which 
we  were  all  greatly  interested.  Under  the  guidai 
of  one  of  the  Grand  Duke'-  Bervants  (who  receiv  - 
pay  for  his  services)  we  were  conducted  down  a  wind- 


192  HOME     LETTERS. 

ing  stairway",  into  these  dismal  vaults,  under  a  tower 
in  the  right  hand  corner  of  the  inner  court,  through 
an  ancient  bath  constructed  by  the  Romans.  "  This 
entrance  has  been  broken  through  in  modern  times, 
for  originally  the  dungeons  were  only  accessible  from 
above  by  a  perpendicular  shaft  or  chimney  running 
through  the  centre  of  the  building,  and  still  in  ex- 
istence." In  passing  under  it  we  could  barely  discern 
the  daylight  at  the  top.  "According  to  tradition, 
prisoners  bound  fast  in  an  arm-chair  and  blindfolded, 
were  let  down  by  a  windlass  into  these  dark  and  mys- 
terious vaults  and  winding  passages,  excavated  out  of 
the  solid  rock  on  which  the  castle  is  founded.  The 
dungeons  were  closed  not  with  doors  of  wood  or  iron, 
but  with  solid  slabs  of  stone  turning  upon  pivots,  and 
ingeniously  fitted.  Several  of  them  still  remain  ;  they 
are  nearly  a  foot  thick.  In  one  chamber,  loftier  than 
the  rest,  called  the  rack  chamber,  the  instruments  of 
torture  stood ;  a  row  of  iron  rings,  forming  part  of 
the  fearful  apparatus,  still  remains  in  the  wall.  In  a 
passage  adjoining,  there  is  a  well  or  pit  in  the  floor, 
now  boarded  over,  originally  covered  with  a  trap 
door.  The  prisoner  upon  whom  doom  had  been 
passed,  was  led  into  this  passage,  and  desired  to  kiss 
an  image  of  the  Virgin,  placed  at  the  opposite  end  ; 
but  no  sooner  did  his  feet  rest  on  the  trap-door,  than 
it  gave  way  beneath  his  weight,  and  precipitated  him 
to  a  great  depth  below  upon  a  machine,  composed  of 
wheels,  armed  with  lancets,  by  which  he  was  torn  to 
pieces.  The  secret  of  this  terrible  dungeon  remained 
unknown  until,  as  the  story  goes,  an  attempt  to  rescue 
a  little  dog,  which  had  fallen  through  the  planking 
above  the  pit,  led  to  the  discovery,  at  a  depth  of  many 
yards,  of  fragments  of  ponderous  wheels,  set  round 
with  rusty  knives,  with  portions  of  bones,  rags,  and 


FROM     ABROAD.  19$ 

torn  garments  adhering  to  them.  The  last  and  larg<  I 
of  tlic  vaults  is  called  the  Hall  of  Judgment.  Here 
the  judges  sal  upon  stone  benches,  remains  of  which 
may  still  be  seen  around  the  wall.     Behind  the  niche 

■ 

where  1 1 1 *  -  president  sat,  is  the  outlet  to  a  subterranean 
passage,  by  which  the  members  of  the  court  entered, 
and  it  is  said  to  have  communicated  at  one  time  with 

the  old  castle  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  but  is  now  walled 
up.'"  It  math'  us  shudder  to  think  how  many  poor 
fellow-mortals  had  been  tortured  and  condemned  to 
horrible  deaths  in  this  dismal  place,  and  we  were  glad 
to  get  out  into  the  sunlight  and  free  air  of  heaven 
again,  after  breathing  its  damp  and  musty  atmosphere, 
our  uncertain  steps  guided  only  by  the  dim  light  of  a 
three-penny  candle.  The  upper  part  of  the  castle  is 
only  worth  notice  on  account  of  the  beautiful  views 
from  its  windows  and  a  terraced  walk  behind.  We 
saw  only  two  or  three  of  the  rooms,  (as  the  family  were 
at  home,)  and  were  very  much  surprised  to  rind  them 
so  luxuriously  furnished,  the  walls  covered  with  fine 
paintings  and  portraits  of  all  the  Grand  (rascals,  some 
of  them)  Dukes  of  Baden.  We  passed  out  of  the  main 
hall,  where  three  or  four  lackeys  dressed  in  scarlet 
breeches  and  knee-buckles,  with  powdered  wigs,  stood 
as  immovable  as  statues.  Resuming  our  seat-  in  the 
carriage,  we  drove  up  to  the  old  ruin,  a  part  of  which 
is  now  turned  into  a  restaurant,  and  ordering  a  cup  of 
tea  and  some  refreshments,  we  strolled  about  until  it 
was  prepared.  Some  lovelorn  frequenter  of  this  castle, 
has  plae.-d  a  huge  ^Eolian  harp  high  up  in  an  opening 
between  two  towers;  and  as  there  is  usually  at  that 
elevation,  a  fresh  breeze,  the  numberless  passages  and 
corridors  are  filled  with  a  plaintive  dirge-like  monody. 
The  views  from  the  summit  of  its  mouldering  ivy- 
grown   towel's,  commanded  the  Baden-valley,  and   the 


294  HOME     LETTERS. 

distant  Rhine,  forming  one  of  the  most  extensive,  and 
grandest  pictures  anywhere  to  be  seen,  and  Mr.  D 


and  J clambered  about  in  every  direction,  above 

and  below,  but  we  were  satisfied  with  less  effort,  and 
enjoyed  our  tea  amazingly,  after  we  succeeded  in 
getting  our  tea-kettle  to  boil.  It  was  perverse  enough 
to  have  tried  the  patience  of  Job,  yet  our  endurance 
was  equal  to  the  emergency,  and  we  came  off'  victori- 
ous, feeling  greatly  refreshed  by  its  invigorating 
influences,  but  the  effort  to  have  our  photographs  taken, 
in  a  group,  seated  on  donkeys,  was  a  failure,  very 
much  to  our  regret. 

The  evening  (after  a  lovely  drive  through  the  beau- 
tiful town)  was  spent  at  the  Kursaal,  and  in  wander- 
ing about  the  garden  surrounding  it,  looking  at  the 
immense  number  of  gaily  dressed  people  that  filled 
every  part.  A  large  proportion  of  them  were  seated 
at  little  tables  placed  at  convenient  intervals,  where 
ices,  coffee,  and  all  other  refreshments  were  served. 
Two  sides  of  the  shady  avenues  leading  to  the  build- 
ing are  occupied  by  shops  of  traders  from  all  parts 
of  Europe,  one  would  suppose,  from  the  extent  and 
variety  of  the  wares  offered  for  sale ;  but  we  were  only 
tempted  to  buy  a  pair  of  gloves,  or  rather  we  only 
yielded  to  that  one  temptation,  when  we  would  like 
to  have  had  twenty  things.  The  beautiful  Swiss 
carvings  were  too  pretty  to  be  left  behind,  but  our 
consolation  was  that  we  were  on  our  way  to  head- 
cpuarters,  were  we  could  be  gratified  at  less  cost. 
The  interior  of  the  gambling  house  was  arranged  very 
much  as  those  were  at  Wiesbaden  and  Homburg,  but 
not  so  elegant  or  luxurious  in  its  adornments.  Yet 
it  was  very  gay  and  brilliant  in  its  draperies,  mirrors, 
chandeliers,  sculptures,  and  costly  paintings,  with  flow- 
ers arranged  in  excpuisite  order  and  taste  in  the  halls 


FROM     ABROAD.  /;,.-, 

and  assembly  rooms.  Three  of  these  were  devoted  to 
gambling  purposes,  and  in  each  of  them  was  a  table 
about  the  size  of  a  billiard  table,  surrounded  by  a 
crowd  of  men  and  women  busy  watching  the  move- 
ments of  the  gamblers  who  deal  the  cards.  There 
are  four  regular  gamblers  a1  each  of  these  tables,  two 
at  each  side,  whose  duties  are  to  deal  the  cards,  or 
turn  the  roulette,  watch  the  players,  receive  tin.-  money 
they  lose,  and  payout  the  money  they  win.  Every- 
body understands  that  the  chances  arc  by  a  small  per 
cent,  in  favor  of  the  bank,  hut  it  is  equally  understood 
that  beyond  this  acknowledged  advantage,  the  whole 
game  is  carried  on  and  conducted  with  entire  fairness, 
for  the  business  is  legalized  and  regularly  licensed  by 
the  Grand  Duke  himself,  and  for  which  "  he  yearly  re- 
ceives the  sum  of  30,000  dollars  from  the  proprietor 
of  this  establishment,  a  Frenchman,  who  in  addition 
for  this  privilege,  has  to  pay  to  the  government  of  the 
Grand  Duke  one-half  of  the  yearly  expenses  of  all  the 
public  improvements."  Fascination  and  disgust  alter- 
nated as  we  watched  the  players,  and  stood  for  an  hour 
examining  their  anxious  features,  trying  to  read  in 
their  countenances  what  thoughts  were  passing  in  their 
minds.  Mos1  of  them  were  men,  some  of  them  hard. 
cold,  and  practised  adepts,  others  young  and  impulsive 
boys,  (how  thankful  I  was  that  my  own  were  not  ex- 
posed to  such  temptations,)  yet  every  table  had  its 
proportionate  number  of  females  among  the  heaviest 
betters,  several  of  them  were  young  and  pretty.  One 
we  noticed  particularly,  a  Philadelphian,  living  on 
"Walnut  street,  (Mr.  D informed  as,)  who  was  play- 
ing recklessly,  and  in  a  long  scries  of  games  she  never 
won  a  coin.  When  her  purse  was  empty  Bhe  rose 
from  her  seat,  picked  up  her  empty  port-monnaie,  and 
walked  away   in  company    with    a    foppishly    dressed 


296  HOME     LETTERS. 

young  fellow,  with  a  sadder  expression  of  countenance 
than  when  she  entered  the  room.  But  the  most  horrible 
to  me  of  all  these  sights,  were  the  gray-haired  women 
gamblers,  one  old  crone,  haggard  and  weird  looking,  we 
watched  for  a  long  time,  she  gained  at  every  turn  of 
the  wheel  until  she  had  accumulated  a  great  pile  of 
gold,  and  as  she  dropped  it  piece  by  piece  into  her  dirty 
old  purse,  she  looked  the  very  picture  of  miserly  con- 
tent. 

Tuesday  morning,  August  20.  Was  busily  occupied 
in  making  our  preparations  to  leave  at  3  p.  m.  for  Bale. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  D remaining   for  a  few   days,  will 

join  us  at  some  point  beyond.  The  day  was  intensely 
hot  and  dusty,  the  ride  long  and  wearisome,  and  we 
did  not  reach  the  city  until  seven  in  the  evening.  Our 
entrance  into  Switzerland  did  not  impress  us  favorably, 
and  what  added  still  more  to  our  discomfort,  was  the 
fact  that  the  hotel  to  which  we  were  advised  to  go, 
"  Three  Kings,"  (probably  we  should  have  fared  better 
had  there  been  but  one,)  was  so  crowded  that  we  had  to 
take  and  be  satisfied  with  a  room  under  the  rafters,  jive 
stories  high,  where,  like  birds  perched  in  the  top  of  a 
tree,  we  looked  down  upon  our  grovelling  fellow  mor- 
tals below,  determined  that  only  one  night  would  see 
us  in  Bale  with  such  accommodations. 

Wednesday  morning,  August  21.  Ordering  our  break- 
fast at  an  early  hour,  we  had  time  to  drive  through 
the  city  and  see  what  its  attractions  were,  at  least 
externally,  before  taking  the  train  at  half-past  ten  for 
Zurich.  The  better  improved  portion  of  the  city  lies 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine,  and  is  connected  with 
the  right  by  a  long  bridge  that  we  crossed  when  en- 
tering the  city  from  the  railway  station,  which  has, 


FR  0  M     AS  i:  0  A  />■  107 

what  we  have  not  seen  anywhere  else,  semi-circular 
offsets  l'uilt  in,  at  intervals,  along  the  entire  Length  of 
tlic  bridge, and  around  which  seats  were  ranged,  where 
persons  could  sit  to  rest  and  enjoy  the  views  up  and 

down  the  river.  A  portion  of  the  old  city  walls,  with 
one  or  two  watch-towers,  still  remain  in  a  tolerably 
good  state  of  preservation;  curious  old  structures  they 
were,  very  high,  with  loopholes  ahove  to  give  ;m  ex- 
tended lookout  over  the  country.     We  passed  a  new 

a/  X 

and  very  heautit'ul  Protestant  church,  of  what  denomi- 
nation our  coachman  could  not  tell — it  had  two  fine 

spins.  The  fountains  for  public  use,  distributed  at 
convenient  distances,  are  a  novel  curiosity  to  us,  and 
they  all  have  large  reservoirs  at  their  basis  where 
women  may  often  be  seen  washing  their  clothes  and 
filling  their  water  cans — reminding  us  of  Bible  seem  3, 
and  the  wells  of  Samaria.  The  water  Hows  usually 
from  the  mouth  of  a  grotesque  figure,  man  or  beast, 
sometimes  a  hideous  sea  monster,  or  coiling  serpent  : 
but  why  such  forbidding  subjects  should  be  selected  to 
convey  so  pure  an  element,  instead  of  some  more  refin- 
ing and  pleasant  object  in  nature,  is  a  question  we  cannot 
answer  or  understand.  Speaking  of  fountains  reminds 
me  of  what  we  saw  on  a  number  of  public  buildings  at 
Cologne.  On  the  Cathedral  the  water  is  carried  off 
from  the  roof  by  pipes  passing  through  the  bodies  of 
some  such  horrible  monster,  the  water  flowing  out  at 
the  distended  mouth  ;  savage  and  ferocious  dogs,  carved 
in  stone,  projecting  three  feet  beyond  the  building, 
wolves  and  frightful  grinning  faces,  with  the  head  and 
shoulders  visible,  why  it  would  make  you  shudder  to 
look  at  them. 

At  half-past  ten,  we  were  on  our  way  to  Zurich;  the 
day  was  pleasant,  much  cooler  than  the  day  before, 
and  the  rate  of  speed  on  the  railway  not  bo  swifl  as  in 


198  HOME     LETTERS. 

France,  and  this  added  greatly  to  my  comfort.  The  cars 
had  the  same  arrangements,  a  centre  passagewa}1,  down 
the  middle,  with  seats  on  each  side  as  our  own  have, 
but  the  back  supports  were  much  higher  and  more 
comfortably  padded.  Nearly  the  whole  distance  was  a 
succession  of  narrow  valleys,  beautifully  fertile,  shut  in 
and  protected  by  hills  and  mountains ;  the  most  charm- 
ing and  unexpectedly  lovely  views  opened  up  to  us  at 
every  turn  of  the  road.  Upon  our  arrival  at  the  depot, 
we  had  determined  to  seek  quarters  at  the  "  Hotel  et 
Pension  Baur ;"  but  the  crowd  going  in  that  direc- 
tion, we  determined  to  go  elsewhere,  to  the  "  Hotel 
Bellevue,"  and  we  have  not  regretted  our  choice. 
Our  room  is  luxurious,  and  has  an  open  balcony  over- 
looking and  almost  overhanging  the  lake,  as  I  raise 
my  eyes,  I  look  out  upon  the  most  enchanting  and 
lovely  view,  combining  all  the  requisite  features  of  an 
exquisite  landscape  ;  water  in  the  foreground,  villages, 
orchards  and  vineyards  scattered  over  a  highly  culti- 
vated country,  and  in  the  background  rises  the  distant 
snow-covered  Alps.  About  midway  in  the  lake,  op- 
posite the  house,  is  an  island,  upon  which  there  are 
public  baths ;  the  buildings  from  our  window  looked 
so  tempting  in  a  grove  of  shade,  that  J — —  could  not 
resist,  and  is  now  passing  over  in  a  little  row  boat. 
The  waters  of  this  lake  are  of  a  most  peculiar  color, 
being  of  a  bluish  green,  like  the  river  at  Niagara. 
Little  steamers  ply  up  and  down  to  different  points  on 
the  lake  at  intervals  during  the  day,  and  the  distance 
to  the  extreme  end  is  twelve  miles,  and  in  one  place 
it  'is  three  miles  wide.  Of  the  forty  castles  which 
once  bordered  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  the  remains 
of  only  four  are  now  to  be  seen.  The  Swiss  are  very 
proud  of  Zurich,  as  indeed  they  may  well  be,  for  its 
University  is  famous ;  its  museums,  its  libraries,  and 


FRO  M      A  1!  II  0  A  I).  19$ 

it-  musical  societies  are  a  study,  and  well  worth  visit- 
ing, bu1  unfortunately  we  are  no1  people  of  Leisure  or 
means,  thai  we  may  tarry  Long  enough  inany  one  pi 
to  get  more  than  an  outside  glimpse  of  its  attractions. 
Yet  we  are  thankful  for  even  this  privilege,  and  shall 
gather  enough  in  this  cursory  way  to  make  us  happy  in 

thought  for  the  rest  of  our  days.     J comes  back 

from  his  swimming  bath  feeling  very  much  refreshed  ; 
but  after  a  visit  to  the  Hotel  "  Baur  au  Lac,"  (the  man 
on  the  lake.)  he  is  a  little  disappointed  that  we  did  nol 
seek  quarters  there ;  he  says  its  location  is  so  inviting 
on  the  opposite  side,  with  lovely  gardens  extending 
down  to  the  shore,  arranged  with  arbors  and  pavilions 
entirely  protected  from  the  sun,  and  in  one  of  them  a 
band  of  music  was  playing  for  the  enjoyment  of  a  large 
company  of  gaily  and  elegantly  dressed  people;  but  I 
did  not  share  his  regrets.  He  saw,  at  the  same  time, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  H ,  Mr.  M ,  of  Lancaster,  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  the  eldest  son  of  C G ,  that  was  an 

additional  reason  for  feeling  satisfied  with  our  plainer 
quarters,  which  are  certainly  more  comfortable.  Be- 
sides, I  begin  to  feel  travel  soiled  and  averse  to  drop- 
ping in  among  a  party  of  fashionable  people,  who 
burden  themselves  with  three-story  trunks,  and  flit 
from  place  to  place  more  to  display  their  elaborate 
toilets  than  to  get  either  satisfaction  or  instruction  from 

their  journey.     Miss   Sybil  P and  Mrs.  J are 

staying  at  this  hotel,  we  have  just  been  informed. 

Thursday,  August  Q2.  The  atmosphere  is  not  as  cool 
to-day  as  we  had  expected  and  hoped  it  would  ha  v.' 
been  after  the  delightful  shower  we  had  last  evening, 
so  we  have  determined  to  remain  in  doors  and  rest,  and 
rest  to  us  now  is  a  great  luxury  that  we  steal  occasion- 
allyfrom  our  greater  anxiety  not  to  lose  anything  in 


200  HOME     LETTERS. 

the  way  of  sight  seeing ;  I  am  sitting  at  the  open  door 
on  the  balcony,  I  count  no  less  than  five  gay  little 
steamers  on  the  lake  ;  I  hear  the  laughter  of  women 
coming  up  from  below,  and  the  strains  of  distant  music 
floating  across  the  water.  The  vieAv  in  the  hazy  atmos- 
phere of  twilight  is  lovely — oh  !  so  lovely — I  wish  you 
were  all  here  to  enjoy  it  with  me,  for  no  photograph 
could  give  you  any  correct  idea  of  its  life,  coloring  or 
beauty. 

Friday,  August  28.  We  have  just  returned  from  a 
drive  in  and  around  the  city  of  Zurich,  and  we  were 
very  much  impressed  with  the  beauty  of  its  location 
and  its  very  fine  public  and  charitable  institutions. 
The  better  improved  and  more  elegant  dwelling  houses 
are  built  upon  a  hill,  high  above  the  very  old  portions 
of  the  town,  where  space  is  not  so  crowded,  and  where 
they  have  plenty  of  pure  air  and  pleasant  gardens 
about  their  homes.  "We  noticed  that  here,  as  in  Eng- 
land and  France,  the  people  have  the  same  commend- 
able taste  for  flowers;  they  are  to  be  seen  everywhere, 
in  the  court  yards,  at  the  windows,  and  in  the  densely 
crowded  parts  of  the  city,  even  the  roofs  of  the  houses 
are  made  to  answer  the  purpose  of  a  garden-plot  below, 
and  looking  above  you  will  see  the  blossoms  and 
trailing  vines  falling  down  as  an  ornamental  screen  to 
beautify  and  adorn  an  otherwise  unsightly  old  build- 
ing. The  geraniums  and  fuchsias  grow  very  large, 
almost  as  large  as  fruit  trees,  and  in  a  good  many 
instances  I  have  observed  that  they  were  trained  up 
against  the  side  of  the  houses,  reaching  as  high  as  the 
second  story  windows.  Several  old  churches  we  passed, 
but  did  not  get  out  to  look  into ;  one,  St.  Peter's,  had 
for  its  pastor  during  twenty-three  years,  Lavater — and 
in  which  he  is  buried.     The  public  buildings  generally 


/■/,'  0  i/     .1  B  B  OA  1).  201 

are  vrery  large  and  magnificent:  among  that  Dumber 
are  the  Polytechnic  College,  Town  Library,  3  >ls, 
Hospitals,  etc.  A.djacen1  to  these  are  the  cemeteri 
containing  a  beautiful  gothic  chapel  and  several  fine 
monuments  thai  *ye  saw  through  the  open  railings,  not 
caring  to  hunt  up  the  custodian  to  gain  admission; 
and  beyond  this  again,  mounting  a  dozen  steps  we 
came  out  upon  a  lovely  terraced  walk  delightfully 
shaded  bya  long  avenue  of  linden  trees,  with  a  splendid 
view,  particularly  Prom  the  crescent,  in  which  there 
was  a  monument  erected,  and  a  busl  of  the  70cal 
composer  "  Hans  GTeorg  Nageli,"  a  Swiss.  Dismissing 
our  carriage  at  the  market  place,  for  they  have  no 
sheds  or  protections  of  any  kind  from  the  sun  or  rain. 
we  walked  through  the  stalls  to  see  more  closely  the 
rustic  country  people  and  their  peculiarities  of  dress. 
The  women  w^re  a  short  gown,  or  jacket  and  petticoat, 
not  below  the  ankle,  no  danger  of  drabbled  skirts 
there;  but  what  gave  them  a  distinctive  character  from 
any  that  we  had  seen  before  was  their  bonnets,  the 
front  a  plain  piece  lifting  close  to  the  head  and  tied 
under  the  chin,  the  crown  a  toot  high,  distended  in 
the  form  of  a  palm  leal',  and  the  whole  covered  with 
some  black  material.  Mot  and  heavy  they  looked, 
and  hideously  ugly  they  were,  making  the  coarse  and 
weather  exposed  faces  of  the  women  look  more  repul- 
sive if  possible  under  them;  yet  with  all  this  rough 
exterior  I  have  no  doubt  that  kindly  hearts  beat 
within,  judging  from  the  expression  of  the  old 
woman's    feature-    from    whom    we    bought    some    de- 

licious   pears   and  plums.      When   J held    out    his 

hand  containing  some  small  coin  for  her  to  take  out 
her  pay  her  face  brightened  up  to  an  expression  that 
was  almost  agreeable,  in  acknowledgment  of  his  kind- 
ness, and  when  he  said  good   morning  (bya   nodi  she 

14 


HOME     LETTERS. 

dropped  a  low  courtsey.  All  our  varieties  of  fruits 
we  saw  in  abundance  with  one  exception — peaches — 
they  sell  in  small  quantities  as  high  as  five  cents 
apiece.  Tomatoes  and  corn  we  saw  none  of,  but  very 
fine  potatoes  in  large  quantities.  I  must  explain  a 
little  before  I  tell  you  about  another  purchase  that  I 
made  and  the  long  hunt  we  had  to  find  it,  and  be 
suited  after  it  was  found.  I  brought  with  me  from 
Paris  but  one  dress,  my  short  one,  knowing  that  at  any 
time  I  could  if  necessary  buy  another  ;  this  I  have  not 
found  it  quite  so  easy  to  do,  without  giving  an  order, 
to  make  it  certain  that  it  will  be  a  fit.  This  requires 
time,  time  that  I  have  not  felt  disposed  to  give  to  such 
a  purpose,  and  to  obviate  this  necessity  I  determined 

to  get  a  silk  sack,  a  cover-all ;  so  J (who  is  very 

patient  as  a  shopper)  went  with  me.  It  was  a  long 
and  wearisome  hunt,  in  and  out  of  one  store  into 
another;  however  our  efforts  were  at  last  successful, 
and  we  bought  from  a  pretty  little  Swiss  girl  a  sack 
that  will  answer  my  purpose  nicely  ;  it  has  a  trimming 
of  beads  back  and  front,  and  is  altogether  quite  a 
smart  looking  affair.  The  silks  of  Zurich  have  con- 
siderable reputation,  and  there  are  said  to  be  no  less 
than  ten  thousand  looms  in  this  Canton  alone  for  its 
manufacture.  We  saw  some  exquisite  ivory  carvings, 
designed  for  every  possible  use,  that  were  too  tempting 

for   my   envious    eyes ;    J 's   attention   was    more 

especially  taken  up  with  the  wood  carvings  and  the 

cuckoo  clocks.     It  is  now  eight  p.  m.,  J has  gone 

over  to  the  other  house  to  make  a  second  inquiry 
about  our  friends,  if  they  do  not  come  to-night  we 
have  determined  to  go  on  to  Lucerne,  and  spend  our 
Sabbath  there,  and  with  that  intention  we  have 
ordered  our  breakfast  at  eight  in  the  morning.  Sorry 
I  shall  be  to  leave  our  comfortable  quarters  here  and 


/••/■'  n  )!   A  B  i:  0  A  i> 


our  lovely  Burroundings ;  bul  we  are  told  thai  good 
hotels  are  a  specialty  in  Switzerland,  a  really  bad 
oik'  is  qo1  to  be  found  in  its  length  and  breadth,  bo 
we  are  going  to  take  this  assertion  on  faith,  and  believe 
we  shall  be  comfortable  everywhere;  a1  leasl  we  will 
be  merry  and  good  matured  under  all  circumstan< 
To  increase  my  contentment  just  now,  I  will  order  my 

tea  and  have  the   kettle   boiling   by  the  time  J 

comes  in.  Nine  o'clock.  It  is  quite  time  "the  young 
man"  was  making   his  appearance.     At    ten    o'clock 

J came  in.  mid  without  giving  me  the  chance  to 

ask  a  question — no  veryunusual  thing — or  say  a  word, 
he  talked  away  at  such  a  rapid  rate  1  Buspected  some- 
thing was  up,  and  sure  enough,  he  had  smuggled  our 
friend-  in  when  my  back  was  turned,  and  the  first 
intimation  I  had  of  their  presence  was  in  finding  myself 
pinioned  in  the  arms  of  somebody,  that  turned  ou1  to  be 
our  good  old  friend  "Dock." 

M.  C.    A. 


■"? 


Oj,  HOME     LETTERS. 


Mailed  at  Interlaken, 

September  i,  1867. 

Saturday  evening,  August  &£•  I  am  very  weary, 
but  cannot  say  good-night  without  writing  down  the 
incidents  of  the  day,  for  to-morrow's  excitements  will 
obliterate  them,  perhaps,  for  we  are  kept  under  such  a 
pressure. 

The  hour  of  our  departure  from  Zurich  this  morn- 
ing   was    half    past    nine.      Our    last   breakfast   was 
memorable,  because   we  had  taken  especial   pains   to 
order  it  the  night  before.     It  was  to  be  mutton  chops 
with  roast  potatoes  in  the  skins,  and  punctually  at  the 
hour  we  seated  ourselves  in  the   coffee-room  beside  a 
neatly  laid  table  ;  coffee  and  rolls  were  placed  before  us, 
and  very  soon  in  came  the  host  himself,  carrying  in 
one  hand  the  plate  of  delicate  chops,  and  in  the  other 
a  dish  of  potatoes,  putting  down  both  with  the  air  of 
a    man   that   felt   he   had    done   his   whole  duty,   and 
deserved  praise.     We  were  so  sorry  to  say  they  were 
not  just  right,  although  they  were  done  to  a  turn  as 
baked  potatoes,  they  were  not  roasted  in  their  jackets  as 
we  had  directed,  and  poor  fellow  !  he  looked  so  disap- 
pointed.    Our  ride  to  Lucerne  we  enjoyed  very  much, 
the  road  passing  through  a  lovely  country,  peaceful  lit- 
tle villages,  (never  without  a  church  or  two,)  with  well 
cultivated   fields   adjacent,   scattered   along   the   way. 
Pretty    Swiss   chalets   at    the    roadside,   almost    con- 
cealed from  view  by  shrubbery  and  vines,  how  lovely 
they   looked  I     After  passing  through   an  immensely 
long  tunnel,  (they  abound  in  this  country  from  neces- 
sity,) we  entered  the  outskirts  of  the   city   and   the 


Fit  0  M     A  B  ROAD, 

dep6t,  which  are  on  the  lefl  side  of  the  river  Reuse, 
where  it  passes  oul  Prom  the  lake.  The  principal 
hotels  and  better  improved  portions  of  the  city  are 
on  the  opposite  side,  to  which  we  crossed,  passing  over 
a  very  old  but  substantially  built  bridge,  down  a  long 
and  narrow  streel  with  no  Bide  walks,  until  we  came 
out  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  with  all  its  loveliness  in 
full  view;  what  a  charming  picture,  with  it-  framing 
of  high  mountains  on  either  Bide  bathed  in  Bunlight. 
The  ••  Hotel  Schweizerhof ':  is  the  leading  house,  bul 
no  admittance  could  be  gained  there,  for  it  was  un- 
comfortably  full  already.  The  English  hotel  we  would 
not  patronize,  and  overlooking  the  Lucerne,  that  we 
supposed  was  an  appendage  of  the  Schweizerhof,  we 
asked  for  a  room  at  the  Rigi,  received  polite  atten- 
tion, and  comfortable  quarters.  Our  only  objection 
to  its  location  is,  that  we  are  shut  out  from   the  lal 

view-  :  but  we  do  not  Bit  indoors  much  ;  and  the  1 m 

i-  3wee1  and  clean.  Pretty  white  curtains  are  draped 
at  the  wide  open  window  that  overlooks  some  quaint 
old  houses  across  the  way,  the  different  Btories  look 
like  graduated  store  boxes  placed  one  above  the  other, 
getting  smaller  and  smaller  in  size  as  they  ascend,  until 
the  last  Burmounts  them  all  as  it'  it  were  intended  for  a 
bird  cage.  On  the  lower  floor  of  one  of  these  old 
houses,  I  see  five  gray  haired  women  washing  cloth'-. 
and  I  wonder  for  how  lorn:  a  time  they  have  been  toil- 
ing at  their  tubs,  and  what  in  life  is  pleasant  to  them. 
After  an  early  table-d'hote,  at  half  past  twelve,  we 
walked-  out  to  look  at  the  shop  windows.  A  half  hour 
satisfied    us   that    nature's    ornamentation    of    the   city 

• 

was  more  attractive  than  the  gew-gaws  offered  for 
sale  in  the  stores;  bo  we  hired  a  carriage  for  two  frai  - 
an  hour,  and  enjoyed  a  drive  of  three  miles  along  the 
lake  shore,  the  road  rising  high  above,  and  overlook- 


206  HOME     LETTERS. 

ing  the  city  ;  which  is  built  in  the  form  of  an  amphi- 
theatre around  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  is  completely- 
surrounded  by  walls  and  old  watch  towers,  that  are  in 
a  tolerably  good  state  of  preservation  even  now,  after 
the  lapse  of  a  half  dozen  centuries.  We  passed  a 
number  of  beautiful  villas,  charming  in  their  location, 
where  happy  people  might  pass  a  summer  contentedly, 
and  wish  for  nothing  more  enjoyable  than  the  exqui- 
site views  from  their  grounds.  Our  whole  ride  was  a 
succession  of  completely  satisfying  pictures,  constantly 
varying  at  every  turn  of  the  road,  and  the  last  always 
impressing  us  as  the  most  beautiful  of  all ;  and  to  give 
still  more  variety  and  pleasure  to  the  day,  we  had  a 
row  of  an  hour  on  the  lake  about  twilight,  just  as  the 
sun  was  passing  below  the  mountain  tops,  which  was 
perfectly  enchanting. 

Sabbath  Day,  August  25.     The  hour  is  10  p.  m.  J , 


by  his  sound  breathing,  lets  me  know  that  he  is  pass- 
ing off  into  the  land  of  dreams,  where  I  feel  a  strong 
temptation  to  follow  him,  and  will,  when  I  say  that 
the  most  of  this  day  has  been  passed  in  our  room, 
reading  and  resting  until  near  sunset,  when  we  started 
out  to  walk.  Passing  up  the  main  street,  through  two 
or  three  narrow  lanes,  under  the  old  wall,  out  at  an 
open  gate,  into  the  open  country  beyond,  we  toiled  up 
a  high  hill,  intending  to  pass  along  the  outside  of  the 
wall,  and  if  possible  gain  access  to  one  of  the  old  towers 
to  gratify  our  curiosity  in  regard  to  their  interior  ar- 
rangements;  but  when  we  reached  the  summit  we 
found  the  grounds  enclosed  as  private  property,  and 
the  barking  of  a  ferocious  dog  determined  us  to  retrace 
our  steps.  On  the  way  down  we  met  two  or  three 
Sisters  of  Charity,  the  only  indication  we  saw  of  its 
being  holy-day  here.     The   people   generally  seem  to 


FE  0  M     A  B  /.'  0  A  I> . 

have  given  themselves  greater  license ;  the  si  reets  were 
crowded  all  day,  with  soldiers  parading,  bands  of 
music  playing  oe  the  quay  in  fronl  of  the  principal 
hotels,  travellers  arriving  and  departing  just  as  on  all 
other  days.  Steamboats  on  the  lakes  were  making  ex- 
cursions to  all  points  below,  and  carriages  filled  with 
n.  isy  and  gaily  dressed  people  driving  about  the  city 
;it  all  hours.  There  are  several  Catholic  churches,  bul 
only  Miic  Protestanl  church,  supported  by  the  English 
establishment,  and  by  strangers  who  frequent  the  town 
in  Qumbers. 

Monday,  August  86.  After  the  delightful  shower  of 
last  night,  we  have  a  cool  and  pleasanl  morning,  and 
the   dusl    is   settled    for   twenty-four    hours   al    least. 

J is  off  for  a  walk  in  advance  of  the  hour  to  meet 

Mr.  and  Mis.  D at  the  depot,  they  are  under  pledg 

to  meet  us  here,  a-  we  are  to  make  the  Brttnig  pass 

together.     <  >ur    friend    D D    is   a    very    important 

personage,  as  his  good  nature  and  pleasant  joke-  are 
unfailing  to  make  our  travel  less  tedious  and  more 
enjoyable.  The  only  thing  that  puts  him  out,  i>  th 
starting,  early  breakfasts,  and  the  counting  of  baggage .  "  big 
trunk  and  little  trunk,  big  satchel  and  little  satchel — 
and  one  aero--  the  shoulders,  shawl  number  one.  and 
two,  and  the  big  cotton  umbrella."  ""What  more. 
Colic'.'  have  we  got  all?"  This  is  his  invariable  qi 
tion.  If  the  response  is,  "all's  right;"  it'-  all  well,  if 
not,  you  should  Bee — to  appreciate  the  self-abandon  of 
abasemenl  that  he  puts  on;  the  comic  distortion  of  his 
features  always  sets  me  oil'  into  convulsive  laughter — 
and  that  pleases  him  amazingly. 

J comes  into  say  they  have  arrived,  hut   have 

gone  to  the  "  Schweizerhof  " — Mr.  D preferring  a 

little  more  gaiety  tor  money  expended. 


®0S  HOME     LETTERS. 

Tuesday  evening,  August  £7.  Our  friends  have  just 
left  us,  we  have  been  together  all  day,  but  I  am  too 
weary  now  to  tell  you  much  about  our  day's  excursion. 
We  are  going  to  bed  with  very  thankful  and  happy 
hearts,  having  been  the  recipients  of  no  less  than  five 
letters  from  home,  all  full  to  overflowing  with  good 
news  and  pleasant  messages.     "We  were  just  reading 

them  when  Mr.  and  Mrs.  D came  in,  and  they 

asked  to  have  a  share  in  the  enjoyment.     I  read  aloud 

Minnie's,  and   at   almost   every   sentence,  Mr.  D 

would  exclaim,  "  "What  a  delightful  home  letter,  none 
of  the  little  things  left  out,"  just  what  we  thought,  and 
for  all  this  considerate  kindness  we  would  return  our 
most  sincere  thanks  to  one  and  all.  Our  day's  excur- 
sion down  the  Lake,  through  its  entire  length,  (twenty- 
five  miles,  made  in  two  hours  and  a  half,)  gave  us  all 
untold  pleasure  and  enjoyment,  in  beholding  the  beauty 
of  the  emerald  green  water,  the  exquisite  verdure  of 
the  cultivated  hillsides,  backed  by  high  mountains, 
some  of  them  cultivated  to  their  very  summits,  others 
bare,  and  of  a  dark  dun  color,  contrasting  beautifully 
with  the  soft  velvet  turf,  and  the  lovely  little  chalets 
perched  like  bird's  nests  on  every  accessible  point. 
The  more  elegant  pensions  shielded,  but  not  concealed 
by  shade  trees,  and  the  charming  little  villages  that 
were  scattered  all  along  its  banks  on  either  side,  in- 
creased the  picturesque  effect  of  the  whole,  and  made 
it  seem  to  our  eyes  more  like  a  magical  panoramic 
picture,  than  anything  that  ever  passed  before  our 
vision.  And  for  me  to  attempt  a  description  would  be 
the  extreme  of  folly  and  presumption,  for  no  words  at 
my  command  could  give  you  any  adequate  conception 
of  its  grandeur  or  magnificence,  its  loveliness  or  beauty, 
and  I  will  only  say  that  I  felt  in  passing  through  such 
scenes  like  a  worshipper  in  the  Temple  of  God,  silent 


. 


/••/.'  0  M     A  B  BOA  V. 

and  subdued.  At  Fluelen  we  hired  a  carriage  and 
drove  to  Altorf,  a  distance  of  two  miles,  perhaps,  where 

tradition  has  fixed  the  place  and  scei f  Tell's  refusal 

to  take  off  his  hat  to  Gessler,  and  where  he  is  said  to 
have  hit  with  his  unerring  arrow  the  apple  thai  was 
placed  on  the  head  of  his  son.  A  rude  fountain  marks 
the  spol  where  the  intrepid  father  stood,  and  another 
fountain  identifies  the  position  of  his  Bon,a1  the  fool  of 
;i  lime  tree.  The  top  of  the  6rs1  fountain  is  surmounted 
by  a  statue  of  Tell,  and  the  other  is  ornamented  (or  de- 
faced.) by  three  coarse  frescoes  representing  Tell's  cele- 
brated feat,  his  leap  from  the  boat,  and  the  death  of 
Gessler.  This  was  all  that  the  rustic  littl<-  village 
contained  of  interesl  to  us,  and  after  securing  a  nice 
cup  of  tea  for  my  especial  benefit,  served  in  an  upper 
room  of  the  besl  hotel  in  the  place,  we  resumed  our 
seats  in  the  carriage  and  drove  hack  to  Fluelen.  Only 
one  adventure  occurred  by  the  way,  the  loss  of  Mrs. 

D "s   guide   hook:  which,   however,   through   the 

good  offices  of  some  of  our  fellow  travellers  was  restored 
to  her.  minus  its  cover  and  a  dozen  Leaves  of  informa- 
tion.    Mr.  D said,  "  Xow,  Celie.  if  that  had  been 

tin  you  would  have  said  it  was  carelessness,  in  you,  it 
must  have  been  an  accident/'  Another  memorable 
place  connected  with  the  history  of  'fell,  is  the  little 
chapel  on  the  Lake,  hidden  by  trees  and  almost  washed 
by  its  waters,  according  to  tradition,  this  [g  the  spot 
where  he  sprang  on  shore  out  of  the  boat  in  which 
Gessler  was  conveying  him  to  the  dungeons  of  his 
castle  near  Kiissnacht.  "The  chapel  on  Tells-Platte 
was  erected  by  the  Canton  of  One,  only  thirty 
years  after  Tell's  death,  and  in  the  presence  of 
a  hundred  and  fourteen  persons."  The  walls  of  the 
interior  were  decorated  with  some  rude  pictures  and 
images  of  the  Virgin  and  saints,  and  "  once  a  year,  the 


210  HOME    LETTERS. 

Sunday  after  Ascension  Day,  mass  is  performed  there, 
and  a  patriotic  sermon  preached,  and  large  numbers  of 
people  from  the  neighboring  cantons  attend  the  service, 
their  boats  being  gaily  decorated  for  the  occasion." 
Our  sail  returning,  was  not  so  pleasant  as  the  going  out 
from  Lucerne,  on  account  of  a  heavy  shower  of  rain 
that  compelled  us  to  sit  in  the  close  little  cabin  below 
deck,  but  some  of  the  views  that  we  caught  in  passing 
were  like  framed  pictures,  any  one  of  which  would 
have  been  a  gem  worthy  of  being  carried  home.  At 
every  turn  of  the  helm  the  scene  shifted,  the  most  sur- 
prising combinations  presenting  themselves  to  our 
delighted  gaze,  and  in  one  or  two  instances,  the  Lake 
was  so  narrow  between  shores,  that  we  wondered 
where  a  passage  could  be  found  for  our  little  steamer 
amid  the  rocks  perpendicular  and  high  above  our 
heads.  Steep  snow-clad  mountains,  their  summits 
capped  with  clouds  were  visible  through  the  gorges 
which  opened  at  intervals  ;  and  at  the  extremity  of 
the  sharp  angle  which  the  lake  here  formed,  a  short 
distance  from  the  west  bank,  "a  pyramid  of  rock, 
eighty  feet  in  height  rises  from  the  lake,  the  Wyten- 
stein,  which  since  1860,  has  borne  the  following  inscrip- 
tion in  colossal  letters,  said  to  weigh  fifty  pounds 
each :  '  To  Frederick  Schiller,  the  bard  of  Tell.  The 
Swiss  cantons,  1859.' :  As  we  approached  the  city  it 
looked  in  the  distance  very  quaint  and  picturesque, 
with  its  old  walls  and  watch  towers,  its  church  spires, 
old  buildings  and  beautiful  hotels  along  the  quay. 

Wednesday,  August  28.  This  has  been  another  never- 
to-be-forgotten  day,  filled  in  with  enjoyment  only,  from 
sunrise  until  sunset,  but  before  I  detail  its  incidents,  I 
must  mention  that  after  our  sail,  we  had  a  ride  last 
evening.     A  little  out  of  town  there  is  a  monument 


/•/.'  0  .'/     A  B  R  o  A  />.  211 

thai  we  wenl  to  aee,  "il  commemorates  the  fidelity  oi 
the  Swiss  Guard,  who  a1  the  peril  of  their  own  li\ 
protected  Louie  Sixteenth  and  his  family,  al  the  storm- 
ing of  the  Tuileries,  in  1 T t » li .  It  represents  a  Lion  of 
colossal  size,  wounded  to  death,  with  a  spear  sticking  in 
his  side,  yet  endeavoring  in  his  last  gasp  to  protect  from 
injury  a  shield  bearing  the  fleur-de-lis  of  the  Bourboi 
which  lie  holds  in  his  paw.  The  figure  hewn  from  the 
living  rock  is  twenty-eight  feet  long  and  eighteen  feel 
high."  It  is  a  grand  work  of  art.  Our  regretful  adieus 
were  made  to  Lucerne  and  all  its  lovely  surroundings  at 
hall-past  in  \.  m.,  when  we  took  passage  on  a  little 
steamer  crowded  with  people  for  Alpnaeh.  a  town  ona 
lake  of  the  same  name,  forming  an  arm  of  the  Lake  of 
Lucerne.  Ir  is  a  place  of  no  importance  in  itself, 
except  as  a  starting  point  where  travellers  take  seats 
in  a  diligence,  or  hire  a  conveyance  to  carry  them  over 
the  Briinig  Pass.  We  preferred  to  hire  a  carriage  at 
two  francs  additional  cost,  for  our  party  of  four,  at 
thirty  francs ;  this  gave  us  privaoy,  and  the  control  of 
our  driver  and  vehicle,  to  consult  our  comforl  and  the 
rate  of  travel.  The  only  drawback  to  our  enjoyment 
was  the  rain  that  started  with  us,  and  continued  to  fall 
during  most  of  the  day.  and  yet  with  this  disadvan- 
tage, we  had  some  glorious  mountain  views  and  lovely 
prospects,  looking  down  through  rifts  of  broken  clouds, 
far,fardown  into  the  peaceful  verdant  valleys  hundreds 
and  thousands  of  feel  below. 

"Through  the  parting  clouds  only  the  earth  could  be  seen, 
Far  down  'neath  t he  vapors  the  meadows  of  green.-' 

The  road  was  a  wonderful  piece  of  engineering  skill, 
a  post-road  that  has  only  been  in  use  >i\  year-,  for- 
merly it  was  a  mule  path,  difficult  and  dangerous,  ii"W 
it  is  macadamized,  and  as  smooth  as  a  floor.     Then  it 


212  HOME     LETTERS. 

took  ten  hours,  (distance  here  is  measured  by  time,)  "we 
made  it  in  five,  allowing  one  hour  for  dinner.  The 
first  town  through  which  we  passed  was  Sarnen  the 
seat  of  government  of  the  Canton  of  Unterwalden,  and 
we  saw  from  our  carriage  window  a  nunnery  and 
monastery,  the  toM7n  hall,  and  several  churches,  all 
looking  neat,  and  substantially  built,  and  beyond  the 
town  was  a  pretty  lake  several  miles  long.  At  the 
summit  of  the  pass,  ("  3,152  feet,")  the  road  ascends  by 
numerous  windings  through  the  woods  till  it  reaches 
the  highest  point,  when  it  comes  out  at  the  town  of 
Briinig,  a  cluster  of  rustic  but  comfortable  looking 
chalets.  Here  we  tarried  an  hour  to  rest  man  and 
beast,  to  get  our  dinner,  and  if  asked,  we  would  give 
our  testimony  as  to  the  fitness  of  the  hostess  and  her 
pretty  (?)  daughters  to  keep  a  hotel.  The  young  girls 
had  their  hair  plaited  behind,  and  interlaced  with 
white  ribbon,  the  coils  fastened  at  the  side  with  a 
peculiar  spoon-shaped  silver  ornament ;  their  complex- 
ions were  dark  but  clear.  Ten  minutes  outside  the 
town,  three  little  girls  presented  themselves  beside  our 
carriage,  and  commenced  to  sing  some  of  their  wild 
mountain  roundelays ;  very  sweet  their  voices  were, 
and  very  happy  we  made  them  by  dividing  some 
small  change  among  the  trio. 

The  descending  road  was  very  circuitous,  and  in  some 
places  frightfully  steep,  our  progress  was  necessarily 
slow,  but  the  driver  exaggerated  the  danger,  and  the 
result  was  that  we  reached  Brienz  just  too  late  for  the 
evening  boat,  that  we  had  expected  would  cany  us  over 
to  Giessbach,  where  our  intention  was  to  spend  the 
night,  and  where  we  will  rest,  no  thanks  to  him.  His 
deliberation  was  intended  to  compel  us  to  spend  the 
night  at  Brienz,  we  strongly  suspected,  at  the  hotel  in 
which  he  may  have  had  some  interest,  but  in  this  his 


/•'//  0  M     A  B  8  0  A  D.  2  IS 

plan-  were  frustrated,  for  upon  inquiry  we  were  in- 
formed thai  a  row  boal  would  carry  us  over  aafely,  and 
the  distance  was  only  half  an  hour.  Down  to  the 
water's  edge  we  groped  our  way,  guided  only  by  the 
feeble  glimmer  of  a  single  candle.  Our  Luggage  was 
transferred  from  the  carriage  to  the  boat,  piled  up  in 
the  middle,  and  ut  >eated  ourse-lvcs  at  the  head  of  the 
skiff  under  an  awning.  At  the  other  end  sat  two  -tour 
men  and  a  strong  armed  woman,  whose  face  we  could 
not  see  in  the  darkness;  bul  we  fell  thai  -la'  pulled 
with  a  vigorous  will,  and  her  presence  instinctively 
gave  us  an  additional  feeling  of  security.  The  men 
were  not  tardy  either;  tiny  guided  us  safely  and  well. 
through  and  between  the  other  crafl  that  lay  beside 
the  pier  at  the  landing  below  G-iessbach.  The  guide 
books  told  us  the  landing  was  at  the  foot  of  a  hill, 
and  that  there  was  an  easy  and  convenient  "footpath 
leading  up  to  the  hotel  ;"  it  did  terminate  there,  hut 
a-  to  its  being  either  easy  or  convenient,  we  will 
all  four  affirm  that  it  was  just  the  reverse.  Le1  me 
tell  you  the  form  of  our  procedure.  In  advance,  to 
lead  the  way.  went  the  two  men,  each  shouldering 
a  trunk;  next  in  order  came  the  woman,  one  valise 
Strapped  aero--  her  brawny  shoulders,  the  shawl-  on 
her  left  arm.  and  in  her  right  hand  she  carried  a  lan- 
tern, containing  the  tift end  of  a  candle,  the  lighl  from 
which  was  so  feeble,  that  it  only  served  to  make  the 
darkness  more  visihle.     "Dock"  kept  near  the  woman, 

"Celie"  jusl  behind  him,  and  J and  myself  in  the 

rear.  We  had  accomplished  a  third  of  the  distance 
up  perhaps,  by  the  roughest  and  most  circuitous  path- 
way, when.  Oh!  horrors,  the  lighl  went  out  in  total 
darkness.  There  was  an  exclamation  of  fright  from 
rvrvy  member  of  our  party,  a-  we  waited  to  know  what 
expedient  would  extricate  us  in  our  peril.      A  woman'- 


21^  HOME     LETTERS. 

wit,  as  usual,  relieved  us  in  the  emergency,  by  signs 
and  gestures,  for  we  could  not  understand  a  word 
she  said ;  she  formed  us  in  line,  one  in  advance  of  the 
other  holding  hands,  she,  our  leader,  holding  Dock's 
hand  with  a  grip  in  her  horny  palm  that  made  him 
wince,  and  several  times  he  called  out,  "  say,  old  lady, 
don't  squeeze  may  hand  so  tight ;  this  is  my  wife  he- 
hind  !"  Our  progress  was  slow,  but  her  strong  will 
carried  us  through  in  safety,  and  landed  us  on  the 
porch  in  front  of  the  hotel  to  our  great  relief  and  satis- 
faction. If  the  poor  peasant  woman  had  shown  better 
by  gas  light,  I  cannot  say  what  the  gentlemen  might 
not  have  done  in  the  fulness  of  their  grateful  hearts ; 
as  it  was  they  repaid  her  well  with  coin,  and  judging 
from  the  gratitude  expressed  by  her  homely  features, 
she  felt  herself  abundantly  rewarded.  Rooms  were 
secured  for  the  night  with  the  promise  of  a  more  pleas- 
ant change  in  the  morning,  and  after  a  comfortable 
meal  came  the  most  delightful  incident  of  the  day, 
which  was  the  illumination  of  the  falls  of  Giessbach. 
To  see  it  was  enchanting,  to  describe  it  iynpossible  ;  no 
written  words  could  portray  its  beauties,  no  freak 
of  the  imagination  could  picture  such  a  scene  except 
in  dreams.  At  nine  o'clock,  at  the  signal  of  a  bell,  all 
the  visitors  of  the  house  repaired  to  the  terrace,  in 
front  of  the  restaurant,  below  the  hotel,  where  the  eye 
could  take  in  the  entire  length  and  breadth  of  the  five 
cascades.  The  night  was  moonless  and  dark,  the  peo- 
ple hushed  in  expectancy,  we  could  hear  the  fall  of 
water  and  see  lights  passing  and  repassing  above  the 
falls  ;  when  suddenly  a  rocket  was  thrown  off  from  the 
highest  point  above  and  another  from  below,  then  in 
an  instant,  as  if  touched  by  magic,  the  whole  face  of  the 
waters  was  flooded  with  the  most  exquisite  colors ;  first, 
pure  white,  like  a  flow  of  molten  silver ;  then  blood 


/ ■■/.•  0  M     A  B  E  OA  D.  216 

red,  il  looked  like  a  torrenl  of  blood,  changing  again 
to  a  heavenly  blue,  bo  pure  and  lovely;  then  came  a 
gorgeous  orange,  followed  by  an  emerald  green;  each 
color  following  the  other  in  quick  succession,  bu1  qoI 
mingling  tin' one  with  the  other.  It  was  too  ecstatic 
u  visitation  to  lasl  long,  only  five  minutes;  bul  the 
memory  of  its  charms  L  can  /,,  n  r  A 

Thursday,  August  29.  Another  delightful  day,  and 
our  morning  walk  was  to  overlook  the  dangers  of  the 
nighl  before,  our  zig-zag  pathway,  and  to  gel  a  corred 
idea  of  tin'  extent  and  heighl  of  the  falls.  We  were 
\iT\  much  surprised  to  find  them  a  Beries  of  cascadt  -. 
seven  in  number,  the  water  precipitating  itself  from 
rock  to  ledge,  a1  an  elevation  of  a  thousand  feel  above 
the  level  of  the  Lake.  Three  bridges  are  thrown 
across  a1  safe  points,  one  passes  you  behind  the  falls, 
and  unless  you  have  the  protection  of  an  umbrella,  you 
may  exped  to  gel  a  thorough  drenching  by  the  spray; 
and  up  to  this  point  we  made  our  way  over  tree-roots, 
rocks,  broken  stones,  and  mud.  but  beyond   this  Mrs. 

I) and  I  would  qo1    venture:  the  gentlemen  going 

witliout  us,  we  returned  to  our  rooms.  In  the  evening 
again  we  were,  if  possible,  more  entranced  with  the 
illumination;  we  had  an  increased  number  of  visitors, 
and  one  gentleman  standing  behind  me,  was  so  com- 
pletely carried  away  by  his  feelings,  that  he  shouted 
v-  bravo!  bravo!" 

Friday,  August  SO.  All  this  morning  has  been 
wasted  in  the  vain  attempt  to  make  our  conflicting 
routes  agree.  Mr.  D 's  plans  carry  him  in  an  oppo- 
site direction,  but  it  lias  been  finally  determined  that 
we  shall  go  on  by  the  kike  of  Brienz  to  Enterlaken,  and 
there  spend  our  Sabbath  day.     It  was  a  trial  to  Bay  good- 


216 


HOME     LETTERS. 


bye,  taking  our  last  look  at  the  beautiful  falls,  and  feel- 
ing that  never  in  human  probability  should  our  eyes 
again  rest  upon  their  loveliness.  Waiting  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill,  until  the  hour  when  the  little  steamer  was  due, 
we  were  agreeably  entertained  by  a  half  dozen  peasant 
girls,  who  sang  as  many  Swiss  songs.  One  of  them  had 
a  voice  of  great  power  and  compass,  none  of  them  were 
very  sweet ;  but  the  novelty  of  the  occasion  and  our 
surroundings  added  a  charm  to  their  music  that  it 
would  not  have  had,  under  other  circumstances,  and 
their  clean  white  leg-a-mutton  sleeves,  and  picturesque 
bodices,  quite  redeemed  their  plain  features.  Will 
and  Perrin  would  have  been  more  interested  in  watch- 
ins;  the  movements  of  an  old  Swiss  mountaineer,  who 
stood  six  feet  high  in  his  boots,  the  feather  in  his  hat 
adding  two  feet  more,  made  him  look  like  a  giant. 
A  handsome  old  man  he  was,  broad  across  the  shoul- 
ders, muscular  in  limbs,  strong  and  vigorous  at  sixty. 
The  little  trinkets,  birds'  feathers,  and  mountain  herbs 
that  he  offered  for  sale,  found  few  purchasers,  except 
among  the  more  sympathetic,  who  bought  what  they 
did  not  care  to  carry,  as  an  act  of  charity  alone. 

M.  C.  A. 


FU  0  M     A  B  U  0  AD.  .'// 


M ,  laying  down  her  pen,  and  pointing  to  the 

closing  Line  or  two  of  her  letter,  has  jusl  said  i"  me, 
"there,  see  wh&i  you  have  to  do."  and  a  pretty  task  it 
is  to  place  on  one  so  prosy  and  matter  of  fact  a-  myself. 
That  which  relates  to  the  poetic  and  refined  iii  nature 
belongs  properly  to  M ,  for  women  always  appre- 
ciate the  beautiful  and  delicate  more  than  mem  ami 
therefore  the  work  of  writing  of  the  wonders  upon 
which  we  now  look  with  so  much  delight,  should  all 
have  been  performed  by  her.  Some  person,  \  know- 
not  who,  Tupper,  I  believe,  once  wrote,  "A  thin--  of 
beauty  is  a  joy  forever,"  and  it  is  true,  eminently  true 
of  the  land  in  which  we  now  sojourn.  Switzerland,  for 
so  long  a  time  the  country  to  which  multitudes  have 
made  their  pilgrimage  in  search  of  health  and  enjoy- 
ment, is  and  must  continue  to  be  "a  joy  forever."  It 
is  a  wonderful  manifestation  of  God's  power,  as  well  a- 
of  his  goodness,  and  here  all  may  come  to  worship  and 
admire,  from  nature  up  to  nature's  God. 

M has  written  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne,  and  our 

dav's  excursion  to  Fliieleii,  which  is  at  the  faille-- 
end  of  the  lake  from  the  city  of  Lucerne,  and  if  you 
look  at  the  map  you  will  he  enabled  to  trace  tin  r< 
of  our  day's  enjoyment,  for  such  it  truly  was;  I  never 
in  any  one  day  saw  so  much  that  was  grand  and 
beautiful  in  landscape,  that  could  be  compared  to 
this.  The  lake  is  hounded  on  both  sides  with  moun- 
tains that  tower  aloft  in  their  suhlimity.  with  numer- 
ous indentations  and  valleys,  that  are  covered  with 
chalets,  or  little  Swiss  houses.  Sometimes  these  arc 
placed  so  near  the    summit,  that   they  seem   perched 

15 


&1S  HOME     LETTERS. 

upon  the  almost  precipitous  face  of  the  mountain,  to 
which  there  is  no  access  except  by  foot  paths,  and  which 
no  one  could  reach  except  the  goat  and  mountaineer, 
who  have  become  habituated  to  this  mode  of  life.  I 
had  read  of  the  cultivation  of  the  face  of  these  ap- 
parently inaccessible  steeps,  but  until  I  saw  them  I 
never  could  have  believed  it  possible  that  such  hidden 
and  dangerous  spots,  some  of  them  not  many  feet 
square,  could  have  been  tilled  and  made  to  yield  their 
contribution  to  the  support  and  livelihood  of  man. 
These  little  chalets,  which  are  so  numerous  and  in- 
habited only  in  summer,  are  occupied  by  a  portion  of 
each  family,  who  resort  to  them  for  the  purpose  of 
making  hay  and  cheese,  while  other  members  of  the 
household  remain  in  the  valleys  to  gather  the  food 
with  which  to  feed  their  cattle  in  the  winter.  The 
low  lands  are  kept  closely  shorn,  the  grass  is  never  al- 
lowed to  grow  more  than  two  or  three  inches,  when  it 
is  cut  and  housed,  and  this  gives  the  landscape  a  very 
neat  aspect,  every  field  looks  like  a  well  kept  lawn. 
Our  day  upon  the  lake  is  one  long  to  be  remembered, 
and  a  gentleman  who  has  travelled  extensively  over 
Switzerland  remarked  to  me,  that  he  had  not  seen  any- 
thing to  excel  the  beauty  of  the  Lake  of  Lucerne  ;  but 
the  Lake  of  Geneva  I  have  been  told  has  the  reputation 

of  surpassing  all  others,  and  Professor  F of  the 

University  of  Pennsylvania,  (who  is  an  old  friend  of 
"  Uncle  William,"  and  whom  I  met  at  Giessbach,)  told 
me,  that  he  had  gone  to  Geneva  to  stay  a  day  or  two, 
and  was  so  much  charmed  with  the  Lake  and  its  sur- 
roundings, that  he  had  remained  there  for  several 
weeks.  He  had  not  seen  Lucerne  and  was  making  his 
way  in  that  direction  when  I  encountered  him  and  his 

family  at  the  falls  of  Giessbach.     M has  written 

you  of  our  dangerous  adventure  after  reaching  Brienz, 


FROM     A  II  R  0  AD.  219 

of  our  row  across  the  lake,  after  night,  and  our  perilous 
ascenl  of  the  zig-zag  fool  path  which  leads  up  to  the 
very  comfortable  hotel  a1  the  falls,  which  we  traversed, 
much  of  bur  way  in  entire  darkness,  holding  each 
other  firmly  by  the  band,  and  led  by  our  b1  nrdy  guide  ; 
it  was  a  new  feature  iii  our  experience  as  travellers. 
But  we  were  amply  repaid  for  our  toil,  not  only  by  the 
indescribable  beauty  of  the  illumination  of  the  tails — 
which  plunge  by  several  successive  leaps  hundreds  of 
feel  down  the  face  of  the  mountain,  (Within  fifty  yards 
of  the  hotel.) — but  by  the  beauty  of  the  situation  which 
was  disclosed  when  the  light  of  day  enabled  us  to  look 
upon  the  view,  which  was  spread  out  before  ns.  The 
plateau  upon  which  the  hotd  atands,  is  considerably 
elevated  above  the  lake  and  is  almost  circular  in  form, 
the  rocks  rise  bigh  and  steep  above,  excepl  an  opening 
to  the  south,  which  gives  a  beautiful  look-out  upon  the 
lake  and  the  mountains  about  Brienz.  V  ■■  >m  tin- 
lake  this  amphitheatre  gradually  rises;  it  is  well 
and  beautifully  cultivated,  and  is  ornamented  with 
flowers  aud  fountains.  Its  walls  of  rock  and  the  ever- 
green foliage  of  the  pine,  which  beautify  them  to  their 
tops,  make  this  one  of  the  most  charming  spots  we 
have  found.  This  part  of  Switzerland  has  become  a 
place  of  resort  for  most  travellers,  who  are  attracted 
hither  by  the  reputation,  not  so  much  of  Giessbach,  or 
the  beauty  of  its  tails,  as  by  the  wonderful  effect    of 

their  nightly  illumination,  which  as  M says,  ••  no 

pen  can  properly  describe."  It  is  the  fullest  realization 
of  all  that  one  can  imagine  of  the  magical  effect  which 
enchantment  may  lie  supposed  to  produce;  and  illus- 
trate- how  the  art  of  man,  may  add  attraction  and 
variety  to  these  charming  creations  of  the   Almighty. 

Mr.  1) and  I,  by  a  winding  and  somewhat  difficult 

path,  ascended  almost  to  the  top  of  the  fall,  and  both  of 


220  ROME     LETTERS. 

us  felt  amply  repaid  for  our  labor  by  the  view  of  the 
landscape  which  lay  spread  out  below  us,  a  picture  the 
eye  could  long  look  upon  without  tiring. 

We  took  our  departure  from  Giessbach  on  Friday 
afternoon,  about  4  o'clock,  and  after  an  hour's  sail  down 
the  lake  of  Brienz  we  reached  Interlaken,  where  we  are 
now  resting,  and  here  for  the  first  time  we  saw  in  the 
distance  a  glacier.  On  the  25th  of  August  we  had  seen 
snow  in  small  patches,  on  the  mountain  tops  which  over- 
look the  lake  of  Lucerne,  but  last  evening  as  we  drove 
to  the  hotel  in  Interlaken  and  looked  up  to  the  ever- 
lasting hills  which  seemed  to  bound  the  view  which- 
ever way  we  turned,  in  an  opening  or  gap  in  those 
nearest  to  us,  we  saw  a  mountain  covered  with  ice  and 
snow.  We  inquired  the  name,  and  were  informed  that 
it  was  the  glacier  of  the,  Jungfrau,  and  right  before  us 
was  the  dazzling  peak  of  Silberhorn,  which  was  as 
white  as  the  mountains  at  home  are  in  midwinter. 
The  Jungfrau  is  called  the  Queen  of  the  Bernese  Alps, 
and  seemed  not  more  than  a  mile  or  two  from  us, 
which  distinctness  in  vision  is  accounted  for  by  the 
clearness  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  great  height  of 
this  mountain,  which  is  over  twelve  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  a  considerable  distance 
away,  perhaps  ten  or  twelve  miles ;  and  is  covered  with 
a  spotless  and  perpetual  shroud  of  snow  ;  the  accumu- 
lation of  ages.  The  sun  is  shining  with  great  power 
upon  us  so  far  in  the  valley  below  it,  and  yet  through 
the  entire  summer  the  heat  makes  no  visible  impression 
upon  this  mantle  of  white  in  which  the  Jungfrau  is 
wrapped.  So  it  has  been,  and  thus  it  will  probably 
continue  to  be,  till  it  shall  melt  away  before  the  fervent 
heat  which  God  has  said  he  will  kindle,  when  in  the 
fulness  of  time  this  earth  shall  be  consumed  to  make 
way   for  the   new   heavens   and   the   new   earth.     As 


y<  dici    . ,  /  ,  >/,  ,;•.,,   , 


,  -.  , 


<■ 


.<'  i 


/■•/.'  0  M     A  B  B  f)  A  D.  .'.'/ 

M ami  r  stood  lasl  evening  at  onr  chamber  window 

which  looks  out  upon  these  lofty  Bnow-clad  mountains, 
we  fell  that  it  was  a  greal  privilege  to  be  permitted  to 
Bee  with  our  own  eyes  these  greal  wonders  of  creation  ; 
our  thoughts  went  back  over  mountain,  valley  and 
ocean,  to  our  dear  friends  in  Philadelphia,  and  we  said 
if  you  only  were  here  to  Bhare  our  pleasures,  how  happy 
it  would  make  as.  We  could  not  help  calling  you  to 
mind  one  by  one, and  wondering  how  each  was  prosper- 
ing in  our  absence,  and  I  need  ao1  assure  you  how  often, 
very  often,  you  are  in  our  thoughts;  we  count  now  the 
weeks  which  keep  us  Beparate  from  you. 

This  morning,  after  a  late  breakfast,  we  took  carriage 
for  the  village  of  Lauterbrunnen,  about  ten  miles  from 
Interlaken.  The  day  was  hot  and  we  hardly  fell  our- 
selves repaid  tor  the  toil  and  expense  (about  $5  of  our 
money)  which  the  ride  cost  us;  yet  the  trip  was  not 
without  its  enjoyment.  The  greater  part  of  the  way 
was  through  a~valley,  narrow  and  lined  on  each  Bide 
with  walls  of  rock  rising  to  a  great  height  ;  at  the 
village,  which  is  near  the  head  of  the  valley,  the  moun- 
tains rise  bo  abrupt  and  high  on  cither  side  that  in  July 
the  sun  does  not  shine  upon  the  meadows  before  seven 
o'clock,  and  in  winter  not  before  noon.  The  word 
Lauterhrunnen  means  '•  nothing  hut  springs,"  and  in 
this  vicinity  no  less  than  twenty  brooks  leap  from  the 
mountains  above  to  the  valley  below,  the  largest  of 
these  presents  an  unbroken  fall  of  nine  hundred  and 
twenty-five  feet ;  but  the  volume  of  water  is  nol  very 
great,  and  is  scattered  in  spray  before  it  reaches  the 
around.     It  is  called  a  "  scarf  of  mist." 

i 

"  That  left  so  late  the  mountain's  brow, 
As  though  its  waters  ne'er  would  sever, 
But,  ere  it  reach  the  plain  below, 

Breaks  into  drops  that  part  forever." 


HOME     LETTERS. 

Just  in  front  of  the  falls  the  valley  has  a  very  fresh 
and  bright  appearance,  with  a  number  of  small  houses 
clustered  in  sight.  One  house  in  particular  attracts 
attention  ;  it  is  evidently  the  abode  of  comfort,  every- 
thing about  it  indicating  neatness  and  good  manage- 
ment ;  it  is  well  painted,  and  the  barn  is  in  as  good 
condition  as  the  house.  As  I  stopped  to  look  at  it,  I 
asked  a  young  American,  we  had  met  at  the  hotel, 
who  lived  there  ?  he  said  it  was  "  the  parish  clergy- 
man— a  Protestant."  A  very  neat  church  was  not  far 
off,  and  in  the  meadow  in  front  of  the  house,  half  a 
dozen  men  and  women  were  making  hay ;  among 
them  was  the  pastor  of  the  church ;  he  was  using  his 
rake  as  freely  as  the  others,  and  was  not  unlike 
brother  John  in  size,  age  and  general  appearance. 
How  this  scene  carried  me  back  to  Somerville  and 
the  friends  whose  home  is  a  parsonage,  not  unlike  the 
one  I  saw  to-day,  though  it  is  much  larger ;  I  turned 
to  Maggie  and  said,  "  who  does  that  remind  you  of?" 
her  reply  indicated  that  the  same  thoughts  were  pres- 
ent to  her  mind  which  had  moved  me  so  much,  and  ' 
as  I  gazed  on  the  picture  she  said  "  Brother  John,  go 
and  speak  to  him."  For  a  moment  she  forgot  that  he 
spoke  one  language  and  I  another ;  we  felt  greatly 
drawn  towards  him,  and  would  have  loved  to  have 
taken  him  by  the  hand,  and  told  him  of  another  who 
like  himself,  was  the  shepherd  of  a  flock,  and  kept 
watch  for  souls,  toiling  at  his  post  amid  discourage- 
ment, difficulty  and  trials,  but  who  faltered  not — look- 
ing for  his  reward  in  a  blessed  and  happy  hereafter. 
Among  the  last  letters  received  on  the  day  we  left 
Lucerne,  were  delightful  ones  from  John,  Jane  and 
Annie.  They  gave  us  full  accounts  of  Perrin,  and 
the  care  they  are  taking  of  him,  for  which  we  are 
very  thankful.     We  had  a  rich  treat  in  the  two  let- 


FROM     ABROAD. 

fcera  from  Catskill,  the  two  from  you,  (Minnie,)  two 
from  grandpa  and  one  from  Mr.  Fine.  But  to  re- 
turn to  my  narrative  of  the  day's  events.  When  we 
alighted  from  our  carriage  a1  Lauterbrunnen  we  were 
surrounded  at  once  by  about  twenty  importunate 
guides,  (one  or  two  of  whom  could  speak  a  little  En- 
glish,) all  of  them  anxious  to  furnish  horses,  or  to 
carry  us  on  chairs  over  the  Wengern  Alps  to  Grin- 
delwald.  When  asked  what  they  demanded  for  car- 
rying the  ladies  a  six  hours'  journey  over  the  moun- 
tains along  a  mere  bridle  path,  they  named  the  Bum, 

charging  considerably   more  tor  Mrs.  ]) than   for 

M ;  and  when  asked  the  reason  for  the  in- 
creased demand,   said  she  was   so   much    the    heavier 

of  the  two,  that  three  men  would  do  for  M .  hut 

it    would   take   four  tor   Mrs.    I) .      D shouted 

with  Laughter,  as  this  was  a  good  offset  to  a  hit 
she  had  made  at  him.  I  must  tell  you  here  that  at 
Baden  Baden  T  was  ordering  breakfast  for  four  one 
morning,  and  trying  to  explain  to  the  German  waiter 

that  part  of  it   was  for  Mr.  and  Mrs.  D ,  and  as 

we  were  on  the  first,  and  they  on  the  third  floor,  I 
had  forgotten  the  number  of  their  room:  at  last  the 
waiter  seemed  to  comprehend  me,  and  said  in  broken 
English,  "Oh!  yes,   ii    i-  the   old  <j<  at},  ,„,,,,  who    aits 

opposite  to  you  at  table-d'hote."     I  told  this  to  M 

with  inj unctions  of  secrecy,  but  she  thought  it  too  g 1 

for  her  to  keep.  After  a  short  time  spent  in  trying  to 
understand  this  collection  of  anxious  Germans,  a 
young  hoy,  who  said  he  Mas  only  Extern  years  old. 
made  his  appearance  and  addressed  us  in  English.  His 
story  was  that  he  was  from  the  State  of  Indiana  :  that 
he  had  come  to  Switzerland  to  perfect  himself  in  the 
knowledge  of  the  French  and  German,  and  that  he 
was   following  the  occupation  of  a   guide  in  order  to 


224  HOME     LETTERS. 

obtain   sufficient   means   to   return   to   America.      In 

answer  to   a  question  from  Mrs.  D ,  he  said   his 

father  was  able  to  furnish  him  with  money,  but  that 
he  preferred  to  earn  it  himself.  This  was  true  Yankee 
spirit,  and  was  all  very  well  if  true,  but  I  rather 
suspected  he  had  been  a  wild,  wayward  boy,  who  had 
left  America  without  his  parents'  consent,  and  was  too 
proud  under  such  circumstances  to  ask  for  assistance. 
Here  we  found  him  among  the  mountains  of  Switzer- 
land, following  the  difficult  and  often  dangerous 
occupation  of  guide,  with  many  certificates  from  those 
he  had  served,  testifying  to  his  capacity,  and  faithful 
performance  of  duty. 

Before  we  left  the  hotel  at  Lauterbrunnen,  Bierstadt, 
who  painted  the  Yosemite  Valley,  which  has  given 
him  so  extended  a  reputation,  came  down  the  moun- 
tain and  stopped  at  the  inn.  D knew  him,  intro- 
duced him  to  me,  and  we  had  a  pleasant  chat  of  half 
an  hour,  before  we  parted,  he  going  round  by  carriage 
to  the  glaciers  of  the  Grindelwald,  whither  we  expect 
to  go  on  Monday  next.  Bierstadt  is  making  a  summer 
excursion  through  Switzerland,  sketching  by  the  way, 
and  is  accompanied  by  his  wife ;  they  travel  wherever 
wheels  can  go,  in  a  one-horse  carriage,  and  have  hired 
a  guide  for  the  season.  He  said  the  scenery  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  far  exceeded  anything  to  be  found 
in  this  country,  and  remarked  that  when  it  had  been 
conveniently  opened  for  travel,  the  people  of  Europe 
would  visit  America  for  the  grand  and  the  beautiful, 
just  as  all  the  world  now  come  to  this  country  to 
behold  its  wonders. 

Our  ride  home  was  much  more  pleasant  than  the  ride 
up  the  valley,  as  the  sun  most  of  the  way  was  behind 
the  mountain,  and  here  as  soon  as  the  sun  goes  down 
or  is  shaded,  it  becomes  cool  and  pleasant,  and  the 


FR  0  M    A  8  /.'  OAT). 

evenings  and  nights  are  refreshing.     We  were  en1 
tained  at  several  places  to-day  with  performances  on 
the  Alpine  horn  by  roadside  musicians,  it   is  a  rude 
instrument  ten  or  twelve  feel  long,  which  has  wonder- 
ful power  in  waking  into  being  the  Bleeping  melody  of 
these  silent  hills,  and  theirvaried  and  far  off  echo 
We  were  at  our  hotel  at   half-pasl   three  o'clock,  and 
after  dinner,  at  six,  we  all   took  a  stroll   to  see  tin- 
town  by  gas  light.     The  chief  attractions  of  this  place, 
are  it-  many  and  very  beautiful  hotels.     Interlaken  is 
a   place   of   greal    resort    for  tourists,   as   a    point   of 
departure  in  every  direction,  and  for  this  reason  th< 
excellent  hotels  are  to  be  found  here.     The  "  Victoria  " 
is  one  i  >f  the  most  attractive  T  liave  seen  anywhere,  ami 
last  evening  as  we  looked  in  the  salons,  they  were  tilled 

with  dress  and  fashion,  but   M and  I  prefer  the 

plainer  houses.  Our  present  stopping  place  is  all  that 
could  be  desired,  beside  the  most  economical  we  have 
been  in  since  leaving  home,  it  is  kept,  in  part,  on  the 
American  plan,  which  they  call  pension.  They  charge 
a  round  sum  per  day  for  everything,  rooms,  light, 
service  and  three  meals  ;  we  pay  seven  francs  each, 
which  is  a  little  over  two  dollars  of  our  money,  and 
this  is  less  than  half  we  have  generally  paid  elsewhere. 
Our  breakfasts  and  suppers  are  light,  they  consist,  in 
Switzerland,  of  bread  and  butter,  honey,  and  tea  or 
coffee;  if  you  wish  anything  more  substantial  it  is  an 
extra  charge.  The  dinners  are  a  full  course  service, 
beginning  always  with  soup,  followed  by  fish,  three  or 
four  kinds  of  meat  and  fowl,  with  their  side  dishes  ; 
desserts  of  fresh  and  dried  fruit,  cakes,  and  sometim 

ices,  and  always  puddings.     M say-  she  likes  the 

last  part  of  the  dinner  best.  So  you  see  one  can  live 
on  pension  accommodation  very  cheap,  and  live  well 
too.     A  summer  could  be  spent  in  Switzerland  inelud- 


226  HOME     LETTERS. 

ing  the  cost  of  the  voyage  to  and  from  our  country,  at 
less  outlay  than  it  requires  to  pay  expenses  at  a 
fashionable  watering  place  at  home.  Last  night  as  I 
was  writing,  I  was  much  disturbed  by  hearing  a  voice 
(I  am  sorry  to  say  of  an  American)  in  the  room  adjoin- 
ing ours,  saying  angrily  and  rudely  to  some  one  in 
the  hall,  "go  away,  I  won't  unlock  my  door,  go  to  bed 
and  don't  disturb  me,"  this  was  repeated  several  times, 
very  roughly.  In  reply,  I  heard  a  young  lady,  softly 
pleading,  "  Father  please  let  me  see  you,  please  do  un- 
lock the  door."  Her  tones  were  very  sorrowful,  but  her 
father  after  awhile,  ceased  to  make  any  response;  she 
patiently  tarried  as  if  she  could  not  leave  until  she  had 
seen  him,  and  been  reconciled  to  him  before  she  retired 
for  the  night ;  she  remained  at  his  door  for  some  time, 
and  called  to  him  gently,  but  earnestly,  "  do  let  me  see 
you,  please  unlock  the  door,"  but  all  her  entreaties 
were  in  vain,  and  finally  she  left  and  silence  reigned. 
I  was  exceedingly  vexed,  and  felt  that  the  man 
must  be  very  hard  hearted,  it  mattered  not  what  the 
cause  of  offending  had  been,  he  should  have  admitted 
his  child.  Did  any  one  remember  at  home  that  yester- 
day was  my  birth-day,  August  31st,  1867,  and  that  I 
was  forty-eight  years  old  ?  I  once  thought  when  a  man 
had  reached  forty-eight  years,  he  had  made  a  great 
advance  in  life ;  the  fact  that  I  am  no  longer  young 
I  am  compelled  to  admit,  and  as  the  past  recedes  the 
future  seems  to  draw  rapidly  and  closely  near.  I  look 
more  and  more  toward  the  end,  and  ask  myself,  when 
and  what  shall  it  be  ?  It  is  time  that  I  bring  my  letter 
to  a  close  by  a  report  of  our  present  condition  and  our 

future  purpose  ;  first  as  to  M ,  she  is  well  and  has 

had  no  return  of  neuralgia  since  we  left  Heidelberg, 
and  I  have  as  you  see  proceeded  very  slowly  since  the 
weather  has  become  warm,  travelling  a  day  or  two, 


/•'  S  0  M     .  I  B  S  OA  h. 

and  then  resting  from  one  to  three  days,  jusl  as  her 

Btrength   seemed    to  allow.    Only   think   of   all    this 

fatigue  and  excitement,  now  of  nearly  three  months' 

duration,  and  only  one  attack  of  neuralgia  '.  Yesterday 

made   greal    demands    upon    her   strength,   but    this 

morning  she  is  in  g 1  health  and  in  excellenl  Bpirits. 

Our  next   destination  will  probably  he  Geneva,     [had 

hoped   and  almost   made  up  my  mind    to   reach    the 

valley  dt'  the  Rhone  by  way  of  the  Grimse!  pass,  but 

with  M lam  afraid  to  undertake  it.     It   requires 

two  days  by  horse  to  get  over  the  pass,  which  is  very 

toilsome  going  up  and   very  fatiguing  coming  down 

the  rough  steep  sides  of  the  mountain,  and   I   fear  for 

her  s1  rength.     If  you  look  at  the  map  you  will  see  the 

Grimsel  between   Brienz   and  the  St.  G-otthard   pass, 

from  there  I   proposed   following  the   Rhone  valley  to 

Villeneuve  at  the  head  of  the  lake  of  Geneva,  stopping 

at  the  baths  of  Leuk  for  a  day  or  two;  hut   I   have 

abandoned    this    route,   to    adopt    the   easier    one    of 

reaching  Geneva.     We  have  about  two  weeks  ye1  for 

the  mountains  of  Switzerland,  one  for  gay  Paris,  two 

for  old   England,  and  then  we  will  sing  ?' homeward 

bound." 

J.  A. 


! 


•.a 


228  HOME     LETTERS. 


September  1,  1867. 

The  first  day  of  the  month  is  the  Sabbath,  and  it 
has  been  to  me  emphatically  a  day  of  rest,  spent  quietly 
in  our  room  which  we  call  home.  J walked  a  dis- 
tance of  half  a  mile  to  attend  religious  services  at  a 
Scotch  Presbyterian  Church,  standing  on  the  outskirts 
of  Interlaken.  Interlaken  as  its  name  indicates,  lies 
between  the  lakes  of  Brienz  and  Thun ;  It  is  a  very 
pleasant  town,  created  and  sustained  by  the  influx  of 
summer  tourists, — a  city  of  large  hotels  and  pensions, 
beautiful  pleasure-grounds,  attractive  bazaars,  and  halls 
for  amusements,  while  its  environs  make  it  more 
charming  than  words  can  describe. 

Monday,  2.  We  were  awake  at  daybreak,  and  heard 
the  birds  singing,  had  disposed  of  our  breakfast  before 
many  of  the  guests  in  the  house  had  left  their  pillows, 
and  were  off  in  a  carriage  holding  four  and  no  more 
(our  German  Swiss  driver  on  the  box)  to  the  valley  of 

the  Grindelwald,  and  J was  the  only  one  of  the 

party  who  could  hold  any  conversation  with  our  guide. 
Half  the  distance  was  retracing  the  roadway  of  the 
Saturday  before,  when  making  our  excursion  to  Lauter- 
brunnen ;  where  the  road  diverged  at  the  crossing  of 
the  Lutschine,  a  glacier-fed  stream  that  rushes  and 
tumbles  over  its  rocky  base  with  mad  fury.  The  road 
was  narrow,  rough,  and  in  some  parts  dangerously 
steep,  but  a  person  who  could  give  place  to  fear  or 
think  of  danger  under  such  circumstances  and  with 
such   surroundings,  must   be   quite   insensible   to   the 


/•  B  0  M     J  B  B  0  .1  D. 

beauties  and  glories  of  nature.  W<  did  not  belong  to 
thai  class,  and  quite  exhausted  our  small  dictionary 
descriptive  words  and  imaginative  Ideas  to  find  expres- 
sion for  our  overcharged  sensibilities  and  inflated  feel- 
ings. Our  carriage  was  seldom  without  two  or  thn 
attendants  ;  lift  le girls  offered  lis  delicious  fruits,  plums, 
grapes,  and  apricots,  in  pretty  rustic  baskets.  Women 
presented  themselves  carrying  large  trays  of  beautiful 
wood  carvings,  very  beautiful,  but  so  fragile  and  gos- 
samer like  in  form  as  to  make  it  appear  quite  impossi- 
ble to  cany  any  of  them  home  in  safety;  yel  their 
importunities  and  appeals  were  eager  and  earnest  and 
their  poverty  so  extreme  that  it  Beemed  heartless  to  re- 
fuse their  requests. 

The  valley  of  the  G-rindelwald  can  boast  of  one  g I 

hotel  and  three  or  four  yensions^  but  the  two  glaciers 
that  approach  almost  to  their  very  doors  are  the  chiei 
attraction  that  draws  Btrangers  by  hundreds  every 
Bummer  to  the  lovely  valley.  We  tarried  at  the  hotel 
only  long  enough  to  give  our  escort-  time  to  secure  the 
services  of  five  stalwart,  able  bodied  men,  and  two 
••  chaise  a  porteurs."  We  were  to  be  carried  sitting — 
Mrs.  JL> and  I,  but  the  gentlemen  preferred  walk- 
ing. It  was  a  merry  and  droll  experience,  reminding 
me  of  my  childhood  when  I  was  "toted"  about  on  a 

hand-chair  by  the  school  girls,  and  I  asked  Mrs.  D 

to  go  in  advance,  that  I  might  have  a  little  heyday 
amusement  at  her  expense.  The  gentlemen  dotted 
their  coat-  and  vests  to  lead  the  way,  our  path  winding 
through  garden  plots,  across  fields,  up  and  down  craggy 
hills,  over  rugged  stones  and  glacier  streams.  We 
were  carried  in  safety  but  not  without  Borne  trepida- 
tion and  quaking  tear  that  by  a  sudden  jolt  or  pitch 
we  might  find  ourselves  tilted  out  by  the  way  ;  but  no 
such  accident    befell  either  of  us,  and  we   were  trans- 


280  HOME     LETTERS. 

ported  and  delivered  in  safety  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier 
to  the  no  small  relief  of  our  honest  carriers.  Poor  fel- 
lows !  how  I  pitied  them ;  the  beaded  drops  of  perspira- 
tion stood  out  upon  their  foreheads  and  dropped  down 
behind  from  the  tips  of  their  hair,  yet  they  wiped 
them  away  as  if  unconscious  of  any  unusual  fatigue, 
which  was  at  least  comforting  and  soothing  to  our  feel- 
ings. I  am  sure  I  did  not  bear  down  more  than  ninety- 
five  pounds,  and  consoled  myself  by  the  contrast  with 
my  friend,  and  it  was  very  evident  that  the  men  had 
been  doing  the  same,  as  in  returning  they  proposed  an 
exchange  of  burdens.  At  the  entrance  to,  or  opening 
in  the  glacier,  we  were  charged  a  franc  apiece,  and  the 
tunnel  or  gallery  penetrated  perhaps  a  hundred  feet 
into  the  heart  of  the  glacier.  It  had  two  or  three 
angles  in  its  passage  and  terminated  in  a  little  semicir- 
cular chamber,  in  which  there  were  three  candles  burn- 
ing supported  on  rods;  the  centre  one  higher  than  the 
two  on  either  side,  a  representation  of  Calvary  as  we 
supposed.  The  ice  was  of  a  pure  azure  tint,  beautifully 
clear  and  free  from  imperfections  ;  but  the  cold  was  so 
penetrating  that  we  did  not  dare  to  tarry  five  minutes ; 
water  dripping  from  above  and  running  at  our  feet 
made  it  unsafe  to  remain  long  in  such  a  temperature. 
Above,  the  outlying  surface  was  rough  and  dirty  from 
the  washings  and  sediment  of  earth  mixing  with  the 
snow  and  ice,  and  higher  up  it  was  broken  in  deep 
crevices  and  gaping  fissures.  With  our  Alpenstocks — 
iron  pointed — we  tried  to  walk  upon  the  uneven  sur- 
face, but  it  was  very  slippery  and  so  difficult  to  make 
any  progress  that  we  soon  abandoned  the  efi'ort.      Mr. 

D ,   more  intrepid  and   venturesome,  thought   he 

could  walk  without  assistance,  using  his  stall'  alone ; 
this  he  quickly  discovered  was  a  delusion,  having  made 
only  twenty  feet  up  from  the  base,  when  snap  went  his 


/'/,'  0  M     .1  B  /.'  0  J  D.  .-.;/ 

Biipport,  and  there  he  si I  cresl   fallen,  no1  daring  to 

go  forward  or  to  retrace  his  steps,  until  the  guide  went 
to  his  rescue  and  landed  him  below  on  a  more  secure 
foundation.  At  a  little  chalej  by  the  wayside  we  had 
a  treal  of  wild  strawberries  and  fresh  milk,  while  our 
carriers  expected  and  were  allowed  to  have  something 
stronger,  and  at  another  place  we  examined  and  bought 
a  few  photographs.  Returning  to  the  hotel  by  the 
saint'  sure-footed  convoy,  we  had  a  cup  of  tea  with  bread 
and  butter,  intending  to  make  the  lasl  more  palatable 
by  the  addition  of  honey;  bu1  the  bees  disputed  our 
right  to  appropriate  their  honeysuckh  sweets,smd  we  in 
self-defence  were  obliged  to  yield  the  point  to  their 
stinging  protest. 

Our  ride  back  to  [nterlaken  was  mosl  delightful  and 
exciting,  the  air  was  cool  and  invigorating,  the  valley 
looked  even  more  lovely  and  charming  than  in  the 
morning,  and  the  mountains  appeared  more  bold  and 
majestic.  The  sun  just  passing  behind  the  higher 
peaks,  gilded  their  summits  with  untold  splendor; 
clouds  in  broken  and  fleecy  masses  lay  above  them  to 
soften  their  harsher  outlines:  little  chalets  were  scat- 
tered about  on  all  the  hill  sides  and  slopes;  cattle  feed- 
ing and  goats  herding  high  up  upon  the  impending 
mountains,  hanging  as  it  seemed  to  us  upon  the  very 
face  of  the  Bteep  precipices;  how  they  either  go1  up  or 
came  down  was  a  mystery  that  Ave  could  not  solve. 
Except  one  man  who  performed  upon  the  Alpine  horn 
and  expected  a  reward  for  his  inharmonious  sounds, 
and  a  little  boy  who  showed  us  a  marmol  thai  he  had 
in  an  open  box,  we  were  not  much  annoyed  with  beg- 
gars. The  road  was  all  down  hill,  and  we  made  the 
distance  in  two  hours,  one  less  than  ingoing  out.  The 
evening  was  spent  in  talking  over  the  enjoyments  of  the 
•  lav.  and  rambling  through  the  town. 

M.  C.  A. 


£32  HOME     LETTERS. 


Wednesday,  Sejit.  ^,  1867. 

You  will  be  surprised  when  I  state  that  I  have 
seated  myself  for  a  short  time  (as  it  is  almost  dark) 
at  a  window  of  the  Hospice  of  the  Grimsel,  to  pen  a 
continuation  of  our  journal  letter  home.  I  have  said 
that  you  will  be  surprised,  because  in  my  letter  mailed 
on  the  first,  three  days  ago,  I  stated  that  we  had 
abandoned  our  talked  of  route  over  the  Grimsel  pass 
and  down  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  to  the  lake  of 
Geneva,  and  so  we  had ;  but  wise  people  change  their 
minds  sometimes,  and  wise  or  foolish  we  have  changed 
ours.  "We  are  this  evening  at  the  end  of  our  second 
day's  journey  from  Interlaken,  and  not  far  from  the 
summit  of  what  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  passes 
in  Switzerland ;  taking  the  very  route  we  had  con- 
cluded to  abandon,  and  are  thus  far  in  its  successful 
prosecution. 

Yesterday,  Tuesday  morning,  we  decided  to  try  and 
accomplish  that  which  would  enable  us  to  see  some  of 
the  wildest  of  Switzerland's  wild  scenery.  M in- 
sisted that  she  felt  well,  and  strong  enough  to  make 
the   effort,   and   on   Tuesday,   we   packed   the   valise, 

taking  with  us  nothing  but  M 's  satchel  and  the 

lunch  basket,  and  leaving  the  valise  in  the  charge  of 

Mr.  J) ,  to  be  taken   to  Geneva  or   Lausanne,  on 

Friday  or  Saturday.  We  took  our  departure  from 
Interlaken  in  a  one-horse  carriage  for  Hoff  or  Imhoff, 
intending  to  commence  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  by 
the  bridle  path ;  where  we  dismissed  our  carriage,  and 
for  the  best  reason  in  the  world,  because  it  could  go 


/••/■'  0  U     A  B  B  OAD. 
no  further,     you  can  imagine  Mr.  and   Mrs.   I» 


surprise  on  coming  down  to  breakfasl  (ours  being  over 
more  than  an  hour  before)  when  we  informed  them  of 
our  sudden  determination,  and  thai  our  carriage  v. 
ordered  to  be  ready.in  half  an  hour.  Our  friends  were 
disappointed,  as  they  expected  we  would  go  in  com- 
pany to  Geneva  by  way  of  Bern  and  Freyburg,  they 
having  decided  no1  to  I  ry  the  difficull  pass  of  the  Grim- 

Be]  ;  D wmild  not  consenl   to  make  the  attempt, 

having:  no  love  for  adventures  attended  with  so  much 
fatigue  and  danger;  and  Mrs.  D had  not  the  cour- 
age to  go  withoul  the  protection  and  escorl  of  her  lord, 
and  in  truth  is  a  little  afraid,  aa  I  imagine,  to  trust 
herself  to  horseback  conveyance  or  to  the  care  of 
"chaisea  a  porteurs."  To  make  the  passage,  three  or 
four  men  are  required,  so  as  to  afford  the  proper  and 
needed  relief  to  those  who  undertake  the  difficull  labor 
of  conveying  travellers  in  this  manner  over  the  nar- 
row bridle  paths  of  Switzerland.  At  half-pasl  eleven 
o'clock  we  bade  our  friends  good-bye,  and  drove  off, 
first  for  Brienz,  then  to  Hoff,  where  we  intended  to 
tarry  all  night.  The  carriage  road  skirted  the  lake  all 
the  way  to  the  town  of  Brienz,  on  the  opposite  side 
Giessbach,  where  we  stopped  to  feed  the  horse  and  take 
our  lunch. 

An  hour's  rest,  and  another  hour's  drive  brought  us 
to  our  resting  place  for  the  night,  which  is  a  little 
village  shut  in  by  mountains,  containing  a  small  but 
neat  Protestant  church,  a  good  many  indifferent  look- 
ing houses,  and  several  that  made  >ome  little  pretension 
to  show.  From  Meyringen  the  road  follows  the  Aar 
river  for  a  considerable  distance,  the  ground  being  low 
and  flat,  having  high  mountains  on  either  side  of  it: 
passea  Reichenbach  falls,  of  which  the  traveller  obtains 
only  a  partial  glimpse,  it  requiring  one  to  go  up  a  steep 

10 


2$^  HOME     LETTERS. 

ascent  for  a  considerable  distance  to  obtain  a  good 
view.  These  are  thought  to  be  among  the  most  attrac- 
tive falls  of  Switzerland,  though  inferior  in  volume  to 
the  Handeck,  and  in  beauty  to  the  Giessbach.  After 
leaving  the  valley,  the  road,  which  is  new  and  in  ex- 
cellent condition,  ascends  until  it  brings  you  to  a  point 
which  overlooks  Hoff,  and  the  little  valley  of  which 
the  town  of  Hoff  is  the  centre  of  importance  and 
attraction,  and  then  by  a  serpentine  course  descends 
to  a  passage  which  forbids  all  further  progress  by  car- 
riage. The  hotel  at  Hoff  is  quite  attractive  in  its 
exterior,  though  rude  and  primitive  enough  inside, 
our  early  arrival  secured  us  the  best  room,  with  two 

beds,  as  is  usual  in  this  country.     After  supper  M 

retired  to  her  quarters,  while  I  sought  the  landlord  to 
make  some  definite  arrangement  with  him  about  the 
charge  for  a  horse  for  myself  and  a  "  chair,"  and  car- 
riers for  M .     Three  carriers,  it  was  decided  would 

be  sufficient  to  take  her  safely  over,  and  this  involved 
the  employment  of  four  men,  three  to  carry,  and  one 
to  lead  the  horse  along  the  dangerous  parts  of  the 
path.  I  found  the  landlord,  and  saw  that  he  was  a 
surly,  dark  looking  man,  who  first  eyed  me  sharply  as 
if  trying  to  make  up  his  mind  what  kind  of  a  person 
he  had  to  deal  with,  and  how  much  he  would  be  able 
to  get  out  of  my  purse.  After  considerable  discussion 
we  came  to  an  agreement  for  one  hundred  francs, 
(twenty  dollars)  in  gold,  for  everything,  men,  chair, 
horse,  antl  what  they  call  here  "  drink  money,"  (in 
France  "  pour  boire,")  a  tax  which  by  the  custom  of 
every  country  that  we  have  travelled  through,  is  levied 
in  addition  to  the  sum  agreed  upon  for  the  service  ren- 
dered. I  ordered  that  we  should  be  called  at  half-past 
four,  so  as  to  get  off  by  half-past  five  o'clock,  and  make 
as  much  as  possible  of  the  journey  to  the  Hospice  in 


FR  0  M     A  /;  BO  AD. 

the  early  part  of  the  day,  as  if  was  Baid  it  would  ■ 
cupy  six  hours ;  bul    we  found  thai   it  required  eight, 
including  an  interlay  of  an  hour  ai   the  falls  of  I 
Handeck,  to  rest,  lunch,  and  feed  thehorses.     Saving 

arranged  everything  for  an  early  -tart.  I  found  M 

busy  mending  her  travelling  dress,  which  is  very  much 
the  worse  for  the  use  that  has  been  made  of  It,  and 
will  soon  have  to  be  abandoned  altogether  for  a  better 
one.  I  hold  the  candle  for  a  half  hour  while  she  drew 
together  the  many  and  extensive  rents  in  her  bud 
umbrella,  which  was  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition, 
but  which  by  this  repair  could  he  made  of  service,  :i-  a 
shield  from  the  rays  of  the  sun  on  the  lull, .win--  'lay. 
my  umbrella  being  too  heavy  for  her  to  carry.  Bavi 
commended  ourselves  and  our  dear  friends  at  home  to 
the  gracious  care  of  JERm  in  whose  hands  we  all  are, 
and  who    is  able  to  look  upon  us,  tho  >  widely 

separated,  as  one  family,  we  then  retired  to  rest.  The 
clock  on  the  belfry  of  the  little  church,  which  was  a 
short  distance  from  our  Eotel,  startled  me  a-  it  struck 
the  hour  of  five,  and  notified  me  that  we  were  half  an 
hour  behind  time,  and  that  the  promise  to  arouse  us 
early  had  not  been  kept.  Springing  out  of  bed,  I 
wakened  M from  her  sleep,  and  commenced  dress- 
ing in  a  hurry,  went  below  stairs,  so  as  to  expedite 
the  preparation  of  breakfast,  and  found  our  three 
"porteurs"  already  up  and  smoking  their  pipes,  pre- 
pared for  the  commencement  of  their  arduous  task. 
After  a  hurried  meal  at  half-past   six,  we  started  upon 

our  novel  expedition,  M in  her  chair   taking  the 

lead,  while  I  rode  with  a  man  at  my  horse's  head,  and 
a  return  horse  with  a  sidesaddle,  which  had  conic  over 
the  mountain  the    preceding   day.     The    morning  air 

was  cool    enough  to  make  my  overcoat  and  M 's 

heavy  sack  no  more  than  comfortable.     Our  path  began 


2S6  HOME     LETTERS. 

to  follow  the  river  Aar,  not  a  very  wide,  but  a  cold, 
chalky  looking,  angry  stream,  which  having  its  head  in 
the  glaciers  of  this  region  is  fed  mainly  by  frozen  seas 
of  ice,  which  for  centuries  have  lain  imbedded  in  the 
upper  valleys  and  ravines  of  this  portion  of  Switzerland, 
and  sometimes  covering  even  the  mountain  tops.     The 
Aar  flows  on  boiling    and  thundering  over  its  rocky 
bed,  pitching  and  leaping  over  rock  and  precipice,  and 
as  you  get  higher  up  in  the  valley,  is  shut  in  by  the 
most  precipitous  of  mountains,  which  seem   to  have 
opened  at  the  bottom,  only  wide  enough  to  admit  of  a 
passage  for  the  melting  snow  and  waste  of  the  glaciers. 
This  river  was  to  be  our  companion  nearly  all  the  way, 
and  closely  were  we  kept  in  company  with  it,  often  a 
thousand  feet  or  more  above,  on  the  narrow  point  of  a 
jutting  crag  or  spur  of  the  mountain;  then  descending 
to  its  edge,  or  crossing,  and  recrossing  it  again  and 
again ;  sometimes  on  rude  bridges  of  logs,  and  twice  on 
narrow  stone  arches,  not  more  than  five  feet  in  width; 
with  no  protection,  in  one  instance,  of  any  kind,  and 
in  the  other  with  only  a  rude  rail  on  one  side.     My 
sure-footed  horse,  accustomed  as  he  is  to  traverse  this 
dangerous  way,  looked  wildly  at  the  sight  below  him, 
and  you  may  be  certain  my  head  was  not  altogether 
steady,  as  I  thought  of  what  a  moment's  fright  might 
occasion.     But  how  shall  I  describe  this  day's  travel, 
the  road  in  its  steep  ascent  and  descent,  at  times  over  a 
bed  of  smooth  rock,  worn,  we  are  told,  by  the  action 
of  the  glacier  which  centuries  ago  covered  it,  and  by 
its  law  of  steady  irresistible  progress  has  now  passed 
to  the  other  side  of  the  valley  ;  but  which  seemed  to 
me  rather  to  be  the  cooling  of  an  ocean  of  flowing,  mol- 
ten lava,  that  had  poured  down  and  over  the  sides  of 
these  giant  peaks.     This  pathway,  upon  an  average,  is 
not  over  five  feet  in  width,  sometimes  even  less  than 


/•/.•  0  U     A  /;  /;  n  .\  n . 

thai  :  often  carried  ou1  and  around  the  points  of  the 
mountain  supported  by  rude  walls  of  stone,  and  in  mosl 
instances  with  do  rail  or  protection  of  any  kind  and  with 
the  rock  often  upon  a  steep  inclination;  al  some  places 
this  roadway  is  one  thousand  or  even  a  greater  number 
of  feel  above  the  angry  A.ar.  The  head  musl  be  steady 
and  the  heart  not  given  to  sinking  thai  can  make  this 
jass  unconscious  of  the  danger  and  of  the  consequences 
which  a  single  misstep  would  involve.  In  one  place  tin- 
path  consisted  of  regular  steps,  which  ascended  thirty 
or  forty  feet  at  least,  and  up  which  my  horse  wenl  as 
easily  as  a  man  could  have  passed  over  them.  The  in- 
stincl  and  intelligence  of  the  mountain  horses  is  most 
wonderful;  they  pick  and  plant  their  steps  with  much 
of  human  calculation;  reach  over  the  rocks  to  a  footing 
on  the  earth  when  it  can  be  obtained,  and  when  it  can- 
not, it  is  best  to  trust  to  their  sagacity.  The  man  at 
his  head  does  nothing  more  than  keep  hold  of  the  rein 
to  control  any  sudden  fright  or  start  ;  and  so  well  may 
these  horses  be  depended  on,  that  hundred-  and  per- 
haps thousands  go  over  on  them  every  summer,  with 
but  few  accidents.  But  I  suppose  mosl  persons  do  as  I 
did,  dismount  at  the  most  difficult  and  dangerous  of 
the  descents.  We  met  numbers  of  these  horses,  follow- 
ing a  leader,  without  rider-,  making  their  return  pas- 
sage with  safety;  and  this  they  do  all  the  season 
through.  On  our  journey  up  we  met  as  many  as  twenty 
or  thirty  persons  on  their  way  down  from  the  Eospice, 
where  they  had  passed  the  night,  some  on  foot,  some 
on  horseback,  and  some,  in  chairs.     Among  them  wi 

a  party  of  eighl  or  ten  Americans  of  the  mime  of  1 » . 

from    Xew   York.     The   universal    Yankee    is    every- 
where. 

Aboul   three  hours  after  we  left   HofF,  we  came  to 
the  falls  of  the  Eandeck,  which  are  considered  among 


288  HOME     LETTERS. 

the  most  attractive  in  Switzerland,  but  in  beauty  we 
thought  were  not  to  be  compared  witli  the  Giessbach. 
On  their  passage  down  the  mountains,  these  waters  unite 
with  and  empty  into  the  Aar  river,  and  then  together 
make  a  fearful  leap  into  a  dark  and  forbidding  cavern 
below,  how  far  I  cannot  say,  as  the  valley  between  the 
hills  is  narrow,  and  looking  over  I  could  see  no  bottom, 
for  out  of  the  deep  there  comes  up  a  volume  of  thick, 
dark  vapor,  which  the  boiling  waters  throw  off  in  their 
tumultuous  and  angry  struggle.  You  hear  the  noise 
and  look  into  the  gulf  and  see  the  vaporous  clouds 
ascend,  but  that  which  is  taking  place  at  the  bottom, 
you  cannot  know,  and  only  imagination  is  left  to 
picture  the  scene.  To  me  it  seemed  like  the  contest  of 
two  mountain  giants,  who,  rushing  from  contrary 
directions,  are  locked  in  a  death-like  embrace  and 
fall  into  the  darkness  below ;  you  hear,  but  you  can- 
not see,  the  throes  and  lashings  of  the  fearful  contest. 
A  rude  bridge  has  been  constructed  over  the  Aar  a 
short  distance  above  the  fall,  and  from  this  platform 
the  best  view  is  obtained.  As  I  gazed  down  into  the 
chasm  I  thought  it  was  a  good  representation  of  the 
"  valley  of  death,  the  jaws  of  hell,  and  the  smoke  of  the 
torment  that  is  forever  ascending."  At  the  falls  there 
is  a  resting  place  and  shelter  for  travellers;  rude 
enough  it  is,  but  welcome  no  doubt  it  has  been  to 
hundreds  who  have  found  themselves  overtaken  by 
rain  and  storm,  or  by  night,  as  they  made  their  way 
along  these  rough  paths,  difficult  enough  under  the 
most  favorable  circumstances,  but  terrible  when  the 
elements,  or  darkness,  or  both  combined,  overtake  the 
traveller  on  his  way.  I  cannot  imagine  many  things 
better  calculated  to  fill  the  mind  with  anxiety  and 
dismay,  than  these  steep  ascents  made  slippery  with 
rain,  and   obscured   from   a   clear  and  distinct  view. 


FROM    ABROAD. 

This  resting  place  or  cabin  is  of  considerable  extent  ; 
it  is  ;i  Btory  and  a  half  high,  constructed  of  logs  ;  and 
has  like  the  don!,!.'  cabins  of  the  West,  a  wide  passi  \ 
way  in  the  centre,  into  which  you  are  first  ushered, 
which  is  paved  with  flal  stones;  od  one  side  there  is  a 
large  room  occupied  both  as  a  dining-room  and  Btore 
for  the  sale  of  articles  of  carved  wood,  a   long   tal 

extends  the  entire  length  of  the  room,  and  here  M 

and  T  had  a  lunch  of  tea,  bread  and  honey,  while  the 
men  rested  for  an  hour  and  fed  their  horses.  On  tin- 
other  side  of  the  passage  was  a  large  kitchen,  into 
which  we  were  invited  to  witness  the  process  of 
making  Sweitzer  cheese,  but  L  saw  only  a  little  girl 
sweeping  the  slops  with  a  brush  from  the  earthen 
floor;  a  woman  superintending  the  cooking  of  tin- 
dinner  for  a  party  of  tourists  who  had  arrived  Bhortly 
alter  us,  while  another  had  charge  of  a  large  kettle  in 
which  milk  was  boiling,  which  was  the  beginning  of 
the  process  for  the  manufacture  of  one  of  "Grandpa's 
luxuries.  There  was  no  chimney,  the  tire  had  heen 
built  on  an  elevated  structure  of  stone  and  earth,  and 
the  smoke  and  fumes  of  the  fire  and  boiling  cheese 
had  to  find  escape  through  the  openings  under  the 
roof.  The  master  of  the  cabin,  his  wife,  two  dirty 
children,  a  very  large  surly  dog,  and  the  servants, 
made  up  the  summer  occupants  of  this  mountain 
home  ;  which  is  abandoned  in  the  winter  to  the  con- 
trol of  the  winds  and  snows,  that  dominate  everything 
in  this  region,  after  cold  weather  begins.  We  left  very 
much  refreshed,  and  again  commenced  to  ascend,  now 
more  rapidly  than  before.  As  we  approached  the  head 
of  the  valley,  the  rise  became  more  abrupt  and 
we  looked  above  and  on  either  side,  we  saw  that 
"Alps  on  Alps  were  piled,"  Ave  never  seeming  to  _  I 
much  nearer  their  summit;  and  thus  we  continued  to 


o^O  HOME     LETTERS. 

progress  until,  taking  a  sudden  turn  from  the  valley  of 
the  Aar,  and  climbing  up  the  steep  mountain  side,  the 
Grimsel  Hospice  was  seen,  not  far  off,  upon  the  summit 
of  the  pass,  while  mountains,  still  towered  high  above 
it.     Grim  enough  this  Hospice  looked,  as  we  drew  up 

at  its  door  and  alighted,  I  from  my  horse,  and  M 

from  her  chair.  Her  carriers  seemed  very  much 
fatigued,  and  were  doubtless  glad  enough  to  put  down 
their  load  for  the  night.  Yet  this  is  the  daily  summer 
occupation  of  these  men,  and  they  make  light  of 
the  labor  when  spoken  to  on  the  subject,  but  we 
both  thought  they  well  earned  their  money.  "We 
reached  the  Hospice  (which  is  another  name  for  a 
rude  mountain  inn)  about  half-past  two  o'clock; 
being  early  in  the  day,  we  had  the  selection  of  what 
was  thought  to  be  one  of  the  most  comfortable 
rooms,  on  the  first  floor,  that  is  the  floor  above  the 
high    basement.       When    we    had    taken    possession 

M said,   "  "Well,  you    like  primitive  quarters,  are 

these  sufficiently  rude  to  answer  the  purpose  ?"  Our 
room  was  partitioned  with  plain  unpainted  boards, 
it  contained  two  beds  furnished  with  very  coarse  sheet- 
ing ;  but  everything  was  clean.  Imagine  a  rude  table 
for  toilet  conveniences,  the  room  about  eight  by  twelve 
feet,  and  you  will  have  a  very  good  idea  of  our  sur- 
roundings and  accommodations  for  the  night.  We 
ordered  dinner,  which  was  served  for  us  in  a  large, 
gloomy  dining-room  with  very  low  ceilings,  and  heavy 
posts  that  supported  the  joists,  upon  these  posts  were 
hung  heavy  woollen  knit  stockings,  which  are  offered 
for  sale  to  the  weary  and  foot  sore  travellers  who  seek 
the  shelter  of  this  Hospice,  and  who  are  only  too  glad 
to  place  themselves  within  the  protection  of  its  walls, 
and  under  the  cover  of  its  ample  roof.  Our  dinner  con- 
sisted of  roast  beef,  which  was  very  tender,  fried  pota- 


Fit  0  M     A  B  I:  OAD. 

toes,  witli  tea,  bread  and  butter,  and  though  Bimple 
and  plain,  it  was  a  very  comfortable  meal  to  as.  Our 
appetites  were  keen,  and  everything  tasted  pleasant. 
Wlrile  I  am  writing  it  is  seven  o'cl<  M        -has  re- 

tired to  resl  ;  3he  is,  as  you  may  imagine,  very  weary, 
lint  nothing  more  ;  and  lias  made  the  journey  with  no 
headache;  this  t  am  certain  you  will  all  Bay  is  wonder- 
ful! I  am  seated  writing,  at  the  window;  the  walls 
of  the  house  arc  three  tW't  in  thickness,  and  are  built 
thus  strong  thai  they  mayresisl  the  force  of  the  winds, 
and  be  a  protection  againsl  the  intense  '-"Id  and  violent 
storms  of  tin-  elevated  region.  In  the  winter  tin-  Hos- 
pice is  abandoned,  save  by  one  man,  who  through  all 
the  season  and  of  necessity  becomes  a  hermit,  to  keep 
watch  and  ward  within  it<  gloomy  precincts,  while 
everything  else  that  has  lite  retreats  t . .  the  valley 
below.  My  window  has  a  front  view,  and  T  have  been 
amused  witli  watching  the  arrival  and  departure  of 
cavalcades  of  travellers,  who  come  and  a  very  few 
minutes.  Some  are  venturesome  enough  to  continue 
their  journey  to  the  other  side  without  any  rest,  down 
to  the  Glacier  of  the  Rhone,  full  two  and  a  half  hours, 
further,  first  of  steep  ascent  and  then  of  as  sudden 
descent  on  the  other  Bide  of  th£  mountain.  M 
tourists,  however,  are  glad  to  tarry  lien',  and  room 
after  room  is  now  being  filled  ;  those  on  cither  side  of 
us  and  overhead  I  can  hear  have  occupants,  for  with 
nothing  bul  a  board  partition  between  us,  our  quart< 
are  noisy,  and  the  prospect  of  an  early  resl  nol  the 
mosl  encouraging.  We  are  now  far  above  the  region 
of  vegetation,  except  the  Bparse  grass  we  see  growing 
around  us.  and  the  few  wild  dowers,  which  have  been 
planted  by  the  Divine  hand  to  beautify  these  rugged 
mountains.  Not  a  tree,  not  a  Bhrub  is  in  sight,  and 
the  snow  lies  in    patches  around    the  house:  not   ten 


2J$  HOME     LETTERS. 

feet  from  where  I  am  writing,  a  bank  of  it  is  spread 
out  before  me,  and  let  it  be  recorded,  now  before  I  for- 
get it,  that  on  our  way  up  I  dismounted,  and  from  a 
bed  of  snow,  on  this  4th  day  of  September,  I  made 
snow-balls  and  pelted  Maggie  as  she  came  by  in  her 
chair,  and  gave  her  one  with  which  she  succeeded  in 
hitting  me  in  return.  This  is  the  remains  of  last 
year's  deposit,  the  region  is  so  elevated,  and  the  fall  of 
snow  so  great,  that  it  never  disappears  entirely  from 
points  as  low  down  as  this. 

Thursday,  September  5.     I  am  up  early  to  add  some- 
thing to  our  journal,  while  M still   sleeps;    she 

needs  all  the  rest  she  can  obtain  after  the  fatigues  of 
yesterday,  and  I  will  not  call  her  until  half-past  six, 
having  ordered  breakfast  at  seven.  The  morning  opens 
bright  and  clear,  though  the  time  has  not  arrived  for 
the  sun  to  make  himself  visible  above  the  peaks  that 
are  high  above  us,  and  I  hope  for  clear  weather  that 
we  may  make  in  safety  that  part  which  yet  remains  of 
our  upward  journey,  as  well  as  the  descent  on  the  other 
side.     Of  yesterday's  transactions  I  have  yet  to  record 

that  M ,  to  relieve  her  bearers,  rode  upon  the  spare 

horse  with  the  side  saddle  for  half  an  hour ;  and  at 
another  place  where  it  was  very  steep,  walked  some 
distance.  Along  the  way  she  collected  many  of  the 
mountain  flowers,  which  the  men  were  always  ready 
to  gather  for  her ;  so  that  quite  a  number  of  specimens 
were  obtained,  as  remembrances  of  the  day,  to  be  taken 
home.  She  evidently  enjoyed  herself  very  much  ;  and 
at  one  time  said  to  me,  "  this  is  a  greater  pleasure  than 
I  can  express;  the  novelty  and  excitement  make  me 
almost  insensible  to  the  danger  of  the  steep  and  nar- 
row passes,  and  I  don't  think  that  I  ever  experienced 
greater  delight   in   my   life."     If  this   day  passes  as 


FJi  OM     ABROAD. 

safely  and  pleasantly  as  yesterday,  we  will  have  reason 
to  congratulate  ourselves  in  the  decision  thai  was 
suddenly  made,  to  change  our  route,  by  which  we  have 
gained  so  much  of  new  enjoymenl  ;  and  yet  we  have 
but  entered  on  the  threshold  of  the  more  lofty  and 
perilous  fields  of  advenl  lire;  boundless  fields  of  ice  and 
snow,  on  which  only  the  more  daring  of  pedestria 
ever  trust  themselves.  It  is  not  a  light  or  easy  under- 
taking, to  breast  an  avalanche  whilst  climbing  the 
slippery  paths,  which  are  yet  high  above  us;  or  en- 
counter the  fury  of  an  Alpine  storm  upon  the  cloud- 
capped  summits  of  the  loftiest  of  these  mountain 
peaks.  But  you  need  not  fear  that  we  shall  venture 
where  horse  and  porteur  cannot  carry  us;  for  myself 
there  is  enough  of  risk  in  that  upon  which  we  are  now 

engaged,  but  M is  thoroughly  roused,  and  would, 

I  think,  be  only  too  well  pleased  if  I  should  propose 
to  her  to  go  up  higher,  which  for  the  present  I  will 
not  do. 

Brieg,  Friday,  September  6.  "We  are,  as  you  see, 
Bafely  over  the  Grimsel  mountain,  and  are  now  at 
our  resting  place  for  the  night,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Rhone,  at  the  town  of  Brieg,  in  the  Canton  of  Valais. 
The  Grimsel  mountain  marks  the  boundary  between 
Bern  and  Valais,  and  we  are  six  hours'  drive  down  the 
valley,  from  the  Glacier  of  the  Rhone;  the  point 
where  we  touched  the  Valais  foot  of  the  mountain, 
and  where  we  could  say,  "we  are  down."  I  will 
renew  my  narrative,  left  unfinished  on  our  depart- 
ure, from  the  Hospice  yesterday  morning,  to  give 
an  account  of  that  which  has  transpired  since.  We 
obtained  breakfast  about  halt-past  seven,  instead  of 
seven  o'clock,  as  I  had  ordered  the  night  before,  and 
when  we  entered  the  room,  found  the  two  long  tables 


#£4  HOME     LETTERS. 

already  more  than  half  filled  by  persons  anxious  like 
ourselves  for  an  early  start.  We  sat  down  to  mutton 
chops,  with  the  usual  accompaniments;  the  mutton, 
like  the  beef  of  yesterday,  was  very  tender,  this  I  sup- 
pose is  owing  to  the  fresh  and  crip  grasses  on  which 
the  cattle  feed  in  these  higher  latitudes.  After  all 
things  were  in  readiness,  we  made  our  start  along  the 
rocky  path,  which  rose  high  above  us  on  the  right ; 
this  road  is  a  zig-zag  constructed  along  and  over  the 
face  of  the  mountain ;  in  places  it  had  recently  been 
rebuilt  and  much  of  it  improved ;  but  it  is  still 
very  rough  and  steep,  however,  we  progressed  safely, 
thanks  to  a  kind  Providence,  and  to  the  care  and  skill 
of  both  horses  and  men  ;  for  I  think  the  former 
evinced  quite  as  much  of  both  of  these  virtues  as  the 
latter.  I  was  much  interested  in  observing  their  mode 
of  getting  around  the  sharp  points  of  the  zig-zag, 
first  the  fore  feet  were  well  planted  upon  the  turn 
and  then  when  there  was  not  room  for  a  full  forward 
movement,  the  back  part  of  the  body  was  brought 
round  until  the  whole  of  it  was  nearly  in  a  line  with 

the  advance  portion  of  the    road.     M was  much 

amused  in  watching  the  curiosity  of  the  horse  with- 
out a  rider.  When  we  left  the  Hospice  she  was  in 
advance,  and  the  horse  without  any  one  to  pilot  it  or 
govern  its  movements,  followed  some  distance  behind  ; 
it  often  paused,  as  she  appeared  directly  overhead, 
looked  up  with  apparently  great  interest  at  her  and 
her  bearers,  and  then  when  satisfied  that  all  was  right 
continued  to  climb  its  upward  way.  There  was  in 
this,  something  so  nearly  approaching  human  observa- 
tion that  she  in  turn  became  interested  in  watching 
this  display  of  brute  intelligence.  As  we  ascended,  all 
the  way  we  looked  down  on  the  Hospice,  which  we  had 
left  behind  us ;  for  we  did  not  get  further  from  it  ex- 


V  ,,,.-/■(   "noj  ' «  v 


M 


/••  B  0  V     AB  R  0  A  D  . 

cept  that  we  got  higher  and  higher  above  it  with  each 
turn  of  the  road,  aa  it  wound  backward  and  forward 
the  top;  the  building  Looked  forbidding  and  I >l<  a k 
in  it-  solitude.  It  is  threestories  high, and  during  the 
summer  season,  or  perhaps  from  early  in  the  spri 
until  late  in  the  fall,  it  is  a  point  «>t'  great  inter*  s1  and 
resort.  Just  behind  the  house,  and  "ii  the  very  Bummit 
of  the  pass,  are  tw<>  beautiful  little  lakes  of  eight  or 
ten  acres  each  ;  the  far  one  shul  <>ut  entirely  from  view 
by  a  high  headland  <>f  rock.  Noticing  a  path  leading 
around  in  that  direction,  whilsl  dinner  was  being  pre- 
pared yesterday,  [went  as  .Mr.  I) says,"  ng 

round"  and  from  the  dividing  ridge  had  both  ofth< 
-vim-  of  the  mountain  lull  in  view  at  the  Bame  time:  I 
observed  <>n  the  side  opposite  to  where  I  vi  tiding 

a  connecting  link,  or  stream,  no1  more  than  twenty 
feet  wide,  which  united  these  twin  lakelets  and  which 
gave  to  them  the  element  of  life  common  to  both.  The 
water  was  as  clear  a-  spring  water,  and  from  where  I 
stood  I  could  see  for  a  short  distance  the  rocky  bed 
below  :  hut  farther  out  from  the  shore  no  bottom  could 
be  perceived.  A-  I  was  somewhat  tired  with  my  day's 
excitement,  I  was  tempted  to  gel  down  behind  the 
shelter  of  the  rocks,  and  try  how  much  refreshment  I 
could  obtain  by  a  swim  in  the  limpid  (.'lenient.  I 
looked  around  me  before  I  sprang  in.  and  all  was  quiet 
ami  peaceful; — the  lake  was  perfectly  smooth,  nor  a 
ripple  disturbed  its  repose.  It  looked  as  if  I  could  step 
out  safely  upon  it,  and  yet  there  was  something  oppr 
sive  in  the  silence  and  isolation  in  which  1  found  my- 
-elf;  as  it'  beneath  the  enticing  quiet  of  the  surfi 
of  its  clear  waters,  there  might  he  danger  in  its 
embrace.  I  hesitated  for  a  moment  and  then  made  my 
plunge,  swam  a  few  strokes  out,  hut  I  was  glad 
hasten  my  escape  to  the  hank,  for  the  water  was  almost 


2^6  HOME     LETTERS. 

as  cold  as  ice  itself.  The  shock  brought  comfort  and 
vigor  to  my  system,  and  when  I  returned  for  dinner 

I' hardly  felt  the  fatigue  of  the  day.     M thought 

it  was  imprudent  when  I  told  her  of  my  exploit,  and 
perhaps  it  was  ;  but  all  is  well  that  ends  well,  and  such 
was  the  termination  of  my  bath,  in  this  little  sparkling 
gem,  hid  away  among  these  hills — silent  hills,  set  in 
solemn  grandeur  by  the  great  architect  of  these  moun- 
tains of  sublimity.  As  I  looked  over  these  glittering 
lakes,  which  lay  so  calm  and  quiet  at  my  feet,  with 
their  charming  setting  of  rock  and  hill,  I  thought 
they  were  more  to  be  admired  than  all  the  jewels 
which  have  adorned  the  person  of  royalty,  or  have 
flashed  and  glittered  on  the  brow  of  beauty.  "When 
we  reached  the  summit,  which  would  hide  the  Hospice 
and  Lakes  from  our  view,  I  looked  down  upon  them 
as  though  they  were  animate  with  life,  and  bade  them 
a  mental  adieu  forever,  except  as  in  after  days,  the 
pleasant  memories  connected  with  them  shall  remain, 
to  be  enjoyed  in  delightful  retrospect. 

Our  way  led  over  the  rocky  summit  of  the  mountain, 
and  at  one  point  over  an  immense  bed  of  snow,  after- 
wards along  a  narrow  pathway,  which  for  a  consider- 
able distance  is  cut  out  of  the  face  of  the  mountain,  and 
overlooks  the  valley  of  the  Rhone ;  a  very  short  dis- 
tance from  the  point  where  the  glacier  of  the  Rhone 
debouches  into  the  valley.  Below  is  seen  the  narrow 
thread  of  a  stream,  which  further  on  becomes  a 
turbulent  and  powerful  river ;  for  in  this  glacier  the 
Rhone  is  born ;  and  this  continues  to  be  the  per- 
petual fountain  of  its  life,  though  many  other  streams 
and  glacier  torrents  rush  from  the  mountains,  all 
along  its  way  to  the  lake  of  Geneva,  to  add  to  its 
volume  and  power.  The  pathway  appeared  so  perilous 
as  I  looked  down,  to  the  river  and  valley  far  below, 


FROM     ABROAD.  $fl 

thai  F  proposed  to  dismounl  and  walk,  but  the  man  at 
the  head  of  the  horse  said,  "!No,no;"so  I  remained 
on  ray  trusty  steed,  until  we  reached  the  point  where 
the   very  steep   descent    commences,  and    waited    for 

M to  come  up.     From  this  place  to  the  valley,  the 

path  is  a  narrow  zig-zag,  which  M remarked  she 

"could  compare  to  nothing  but  the  trail  of  an  enor- 
mous serpent."  The  road,  though  so  very  steep  is 
much  bet t it  than  on  the  other  side;  the  footing  is 
more  secure,  the  earth  being  soft  and  comparatively 
free  from  rock  and  stone;  I  walked  all  the  way  down, 
not  from  choice  however,  for  the  man  in  charge  of  my 
horse  had.  to  my  surprise,  taken  him  so  far  in  advance, 
that   when   [  wanted  to  mount,  my  guide  and   pony 

both  were  out  of  sight  and  hearing.     M walked  for 

half  an  hour,  and   then  getting  a  little  tired,  rese 
herself  on  her  chair,  and   was  carried  very  comfortably 
to  the  hotel  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.     Both  of  us 
made   good   use  of  our  Alpenstocks,  with   which  we 
were  provided,  to  aid  in  our  descent,  and  found  them 

of  great  service,  M- avowing  her  intention  of  taking 

her  own  home  with  her.  A  doubt,  which  I  expressed 
as  to  the  probability  of  the  fulfilment  of  h<  r  resolution 
has,  I  fear,  insured  its  accomplishment,  and  secured 
for  me  a  pair  of  iron  shod  companions  that  may  be 
slightly  troublesome  in  our  future  journey.  How  un- 
fortunate it  is  sometimes  to  doubt !  What  an  enigma 
is  woman?  At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  we  found  a 
large,  well  ordered  hotel  at  which  we  rested,  and 
having  partaken  of  a  lunch,  set  our  to  visit  the  gla 

I    walked    and    M was    carried    by    the    porteurs. 

Both  the  entrance  and   passage-way  in  the  -  not 

unlike  that  at  Grindelwald,  and  at  the  termination  we 
found  a  little  chapel  cut  in  the  ice  with  two  lighl 
the    farther    end,    which    the    guide    said    were    never 


Q£8  HOME     LETTERS. 

allowed  to  go  out.     That  lie  said  this,  in  our  opinion, 
did  not  make  it  true.     The  effect  of  the  burning  lamps 
upon  the  walls  and  roof  of  ice  was  so  very  beautiful, 
that  we  seemed  transported  to  fairy  land  in  an  instant 
of  time.     On  our  return  to  the  hotel  we  hired  a  man 
and  one  horse  carriage  to  take  us  down  the  valley  of  the 
Rhone,  on  our  way  to  Lausanne,  preferring  this  private 
mode  of  travelling  to  the  diligence,  which  would  have 
been  less  expensive,  but  which  would  take  us  to  Brieg 
sometime  in  the  night.    By  the  help  of  Jacob  Snyder 
and  his  little  white  horse  we  arrived  at  this  place  about 
five  o'clock,  which  gave  us  an  hour  for  rest  before  din- 
ner.    Before  I  proceed  farther,  I  ought  to  say,  that  we 
found  the  glacier  of  the  Rhone  to  be  much  greater  in 
bulk  than  either  of  the  two  we  saw  at  Grindelwald ; 
but  not  so  long  as  the  largest,  for  that  extends  forty- 
five  miles  back  among  the  mountains,  while  the  Rhone 
glacier  is  only  eighteen  miles  in  length.     At  the  point 
from  which  we  viewed  it,  it  is  one  hundred  feet  thick, 
clear,  solid  ice.     I  had  better  mention  now  before  leav- 
ing this  portion  of  my  statement  of  facts,  that  our  guide 
informed  us,  our  highest  point  of  ascent  was  six  thou- 
sand four  hundred  and  ninety-five  feet.     Xear  this  ex- 
treme point  of  elevation  we  passed,  to  our  right  after 
we  began  to  descend,  the  little  gloomy,  black-looking 
lake  of  Todten  Sea,  or  Sea  of  the  Dead.     When  the 
Austrians  and   French,    in   1789,   were   carrying   war 
with   its    horrors   over    these    apparently   inaccessible 
regions,  the  former  with  the  Valaisians  had  entrenched 
themselves  on  the  Grimsel,  and  were  dislodged  by  the 
French,  who  guided  by  a  Swiss  peasant  by  a  way  sup- 
posed  to  be   impassable,   succeeded   after   an  arduous 
struggle  in   getting   possession   of  the   heights.     This 
lake  was  then  used  as  the  burial  place  for  the  dead 
slain  in  the  battle,  and  hence  its  name ;  in  its  desola- 


FM  <>  M     J  i:  R  OA  l>.  .<;// 

tionand  solitude  it  is  a  fitting  place  to  be  used  for  such 
a  purpose. 

Of  our  journey  Prom   the  glacier  of  the   Rhone   to 
Brieg,  I  have  little  to  record  thai  is  of  interest         ■  pt 

to  .-a v  thai   both  M •  ;iiul  I  enjoyed  it   very  much, 

notwithstanding  a  short  time  after  we  started  it  com- 
menced to  rain  moderately,  bu1  we  were  well  protected 
in  our  carriage  with  i t -  overhanging  top,  and  a-  the 
dust  was  subdued  by  tin-  shower  ami  the  road  which 
was  newly  constructed  wound  up  ami  <1< >wn  the  moun- 
tain, presenting  a  constanl  change  in  the  beautiful 
landscape,  our  ride  to  the  valley  was  picturesque  ami 
delightful.  Our  driver  was  a  German  from  the  town 
of  Visp,  who  could  understand  a  little  English,  very 
#ttle,  and  L  a  little  German,  very  little,  and  so  we 
managed  between  us  both  to  make  each  other  under- 
stand  a  good  deal,  lie  bore  the  name,  familiar 
Harrisburg  ears,  of  Jacob  Snyder,  ami  was  an  invet- 
erate smoker,  not  content"  without  he  had  either  a 
cigar  or  pipe  in  his  mouth,  which  appeared  to  add 
greatly  to  hi.-  comfort,  hut  not  especially  to  ours, how- 
ever, as  i1  was  so  great  an  enjoyment  to  him,  we  con- 
cluded to  let  him  smoke.  Jacob  was  good  natured, 
ami  tried  to  bo  communicative,  pointing  out  objects  of 
interest,  and  telling  the  unpronounceable  name-  of  the 
gloomy,  dingy-looking  towns  we  passed  through.  Ar 
twelve  o'clock  ho  drew  up  his  horse  at  the  door  of  a 
public  house  in  Minister  to  give  him  a  "  little  kite  "  as 
he  said.  We  did  not  intend  to  stop  here  for  dinner, 
hut  finding  that  Jacob  would  be  some  time  feeding,  we 
concluded  to  enter  the  inn  and  rest, as  we  w  ted 

to  do  by  a  polite  gargon,  who  spoke  English  very  well. 
We  were  shown  into  the  dining-room,  where  we  found 
a  party  of  four  or  five  English  travellers.  In  the  regis- 
try we  -aw  a  greal  many  commendations  of  the  k     -  . 

17 


250  HOME     LETTERS. 

as  good  clean  beds,  food  excellent,  &c,  and  one  man 
added  to  his  testimonial  that  they  gave  him  a  large 
tub  of  water  to  bathe  in  every  morning.  All  certified 
that  the  charges  were  moderate,  and  so  we  found  them  ; 
our  bill  for  beefsteak,  fried  potatoes,  eggs,  tea,  bread, 
butter,  and  honey,  was  only  four  francs,  (eighty  cents ;) 
the  cheapest,  let  me  record  in  justice  to  mine  host  at 
Minister,  that  we  have  found  anywhere  on  this  side  of 
the  Atlantic.  If  these  landlords  know  not  much  else, 
they  certainly  know  how  to  make  out  a  bill,  and  to 
make  it  extortionate  too.  You  are  always  charged  from 
one  to  two  francs  a  day  each,  for  service,  and  always  a 
franc  for  candles.  If  you  only  tarry  over  one  night, 
you  find  this  in  your  bill  in  the  morning,  remon- 
strance is  useless,  custom  is  law,  and  people  who  go  for 
pleasure,  are  expected  by  landlords  everywhere  to 
pay  for  it.  Jacob  opened  to  me  a  new  experience  a 
little  farther  on  the  way  down,  about  an  hour  and  a 
half  after  we  had  left  Minister,  he  drove  up  to  a  tavern, 
in  another  dirty  little  town,  and  going  hurriedly  in, 
soon  returned  with  the  landlord,  who  carried  a  half 
loaf  of  brown  bread  in  one  hand  and  a  knife  in  the 
other.  The  bread  was  fed  to  the  horse  in  slices,  while 
standing  unharnessed  before  the  door ;  pony  seemed  to 
relish  his  lunch,  very  much  indeed.  We  have  been  all 
day  descending  the  mountain,  in  a  Catholic  country,  as 
Valais  is  almost  entirely  Catholic  ;  while  Bern,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  mountain,  is  four-fifths  Protestant. 

During  our  two  days'  passage  through  this  valley  I 
was  unable  to  notice  a  single  school  house,  and  at  the 
same  time  I  never  saw  a  region  so  filled  with  churches, 
shrines  and  chapels,  for  at  no  point  were  they  out  of 
view,  and  often  a  half  dozen  were  in  sight  at  once. 
High  up  on  the  mountain  peaks  where  people  reside  in 
chalets  in  summer  only,  churches  abound,  and  every 


1  l;  0  M     A  B  B  0  A  D.  251 

collection  of  houses  or  huts  has  its  white  edifice  for 
religious  purposes,  with  it-  spire  towering  above  evei 

thing  else.     At   St.  Maurice   I   saw  one,  thre •  four 

hundred  feel  above  the  level  of  the  railroad,  upon  what 
seemed  to  \»-  the  face  of  a  perpendicular  rock,  to  which 
I  could  discover  no  path  or  road  of  any  kind.  All 
through  this  valley,  you  witness  the  degradation  of 
women  ;  they  work  on  the  roads  and  labor  in  the  fields, 
performing  the  mosl  repulsive  kind  of  service.  In  a 
number  of  instances  we  saw  them  carrying  manure  on 
their  backs  in  long  wicker  baskets:  it  is  nearly  all 
taken  to  their  fields  in  this  way.  They  are  every- 
where busy  putting  in  their  winter  crop  of  wheat,  the 
soil  is  all  turned  up  with  a  long  shovel-shaped  h< 
hut  I  did  not  see  a  single  plow  in  the  entire  valley ; 
uor  a  shrivel  or  spade.  The  ground  is  made  smooth 
with  hand-rakes  instead  of  harrows,  and  I  Baw  a  man 
harrowing  with  a  large  brush,  <>r  tree  branch.  Horses 
and  mules  are  few  in  number,  and  are  reserved  for  the 
use  of  strangers  who  travel  through  the  country,  for 
this  reason  everything  is  carried  on  the  backs  of  the 
people,  and  it  is  wonderful  what  loads  they  can 
endure.  The  people  all  through  Switzerland  are  com- 
fortably clad,  and  in  this  vallej  the  women  w.ar  hats 
with  low  crowns,  bound  round  with  lace  or  fancy 
trimming,  which  extends  above  the  crown:  some  of 
thorn  have  an  edging  of  tinsel  lace.  It  i-  a  very 
unbecoming  head-gear,  and  altogether  the  people  are 
more  roiiu'h.  dress  with  less  taste,  and  are  evidently 
less  intelligent  than  the  inhabitants  of  the  other 
cantons  in  which  we  have  been.  In  Zurich  and 
Lucerne,  we  found  fruit  of  some  kinds  very  abundant, 
pears,  plums  and  apricots  are  very  plentiful,  hut  in 
this  valley  there  is  very  little  except  the  grape,  which 
is  extensively  cultivated   in  the  lower  part  of  it.      1 


£5®  HOME     LETTERS. 

must  rest  here  and  take  up  my  journal  when  I  get  to 
Lausanne,  which  we  hope  to  make  on  Saturday  night 
or  Monday  morning. 

Friday,  September  6. — Baths  of  Leuk.  We  are  again, 
somewhat  to  our  surprise,  high  up  on  the  mountain, 
hut  it  is  the  Gemmi,  and  not  the  Grimsel  mountain, 
that  is  our  resting  place  for  the  night.  Last  evening 
we  were  at  Brieg,  which  we  left  at  half-past  seven 
o'clock  this  morning,  having  made  another  bargain 
with  our  driver  of  the  day  before  to  take  us  a  day's 
journey  down  the  valley  in  his  carriage  with  the  little 
white  horse  who  likes  to  stop  by  the  road  side  and 
lunch  on  brown  bread.  Jacob  made  his  appearance 
at  the  door  of  the  hotel  with  all  things  ready  for  a 
start  half  an  hour  behind  his  appointment.  We  had 
breakfasted,  after  a  good  night's  rest,  and  felt  ready  for 

a  full  day's  drive,  M is  still  free  from  neuralgic 

headache  and  apparently  quite  refreshed.  The  morn- 
ing was  again  clear,  the  air  very  cool  and  our  ride 
pleasant.  Suist  is  a  little  town  on  the  valley  road 
where  the  route  diverges  at  right  angles  to  ascend  to 

the  Baths  of  Leuk,  and  when  I  suggested  to  M 

that  we  should  go  up  and  pass  the  night  there,  Jacob 
was  directed  to  stop  his  pony  until  Ave  consulted 
together,  upon  his  agreeing  to  change  his  course  and 
land  us  safely  at  the  baths  for  ten  francs  additional, 
we  told  him  to  proceed  up  the  mountain.  And  thus 
we  are  again  two  thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy 
feet  higher  than  when  we  left  the  valley  at  Suist. 
Our  passage  up  was  very  slow,  for  we  found  the  road  a 
continual  and  steady  getting  up  hill  all  the  way  ;  so 
pony  could  do  nothing  but  walk,  with  many  rests. 
The  journey  occupied  five  hours,  including  one  stop  to 
refresh  the  horse  with  half  a  loaf  of  brown  bread  ;  and 


dac 


1      t  ro  'J'  J'~ 
v-horae  cha 


/■'A'  OM     .1  I:  /.'  OA  />. 

another  a1  the  town  of  Leuk,  aboul  a  mile  ap  the 
mountain,  where  the  lunch  consisted  of  a  lighl  measure 
of  oats.     In  an  antiquated  looking  tavern,  which  we 

found  was  clean,  I  gol    for  M the  usual  lunch  of 

tea,  bread  and  butter  and  honey,  and  a1  our  last 
Btopping  place  a  woman  (Mine  ou1  to  us  with  a  basket, 
containing  halt'  a  pint  of  wild  strawberries,  which  I 
bought,  and  having  obtained  some  very  good  mi] 
making  her  understand  what  I  wanted  by  going 
through  the  motions  of  milking,  we  made  a  third 
lunch  since  leaving    Brieg:   strawberries,  on    the   6th 

■ 

day  of  September,  which  could  have  been  picked  only 
a  short  time  before.  The  sun  came  out  hot  and  beat 
with  much  power  against    the  side  of  the  mountain, 

and   \[ began  to  feel    the  effects  of  the  heat,  but 

after  awhile  the  mountain  became  our  shield,  a  gentle 

breeze  refreshed  us  and   M rallied,  so  thai   by  the 

time  we  reached  the  Hotel  des  Alps,  at  the  Baths,  she 
was  entirely  free  from  any  discomfort.  Taking  all  the 
disadvantages  together  we  enjoyed  the  ride  very  much; 
ilif  views  all  tli«'  way  up  were  beautiful,  presenting 
a  delightful  variety  of  rugged  mountains,  villagi  -. 
church  spires,  evergreens,  and  the  beautiful  lawn-like 
slopes  of  grass  which  lias  a  freshness  of  color  we  did 
not  find  in  the  lowland-.  Ar  one  point  we  crossed  a 
stone  bridge,  with  two  immense  arches  that  spanned 
the  valley,  which,  with  its  surroundings  of  steep  green 
bank  and  beautiful  fore  and  back  ground,  presented  a 
very  charming  picture.  In  some  respects  we  arc  disap- 
pointed with  the  Baths  of  Leuk.  The  village,  of  about 
five  hundred  inhabitants,  is  \i-vy  dark  and  dingy,  and 
the  streets  are  nothing  but  the  irregular  windings  of 
what  was  the  old  mountain  road:  and  only  the  hotels. 
which  are  large  and  imposing,  relieve  the  place  from 
its  air  of  dullness  and  gloom.     Th  m  is  now  over. 


864 


HOME     LETTERS. 


for  July  and  August  are  its  harvest  days,  and  at  our 
hotel,  which  is  the  largest,  we  found  not  over  thirty  or 
forty  people.  The  springs,  which  are  hot,  and  twenty- 
two  in  number,  are  the  great  attraction  of  the  place. 
In  the  morning  we  propose  seeing  the  bathers  in  their 
tubs,  and  perhaps  I  may  be  tempted  to  take  a  bath 
myself. 

September  7.  When  I  opened  the  shutter  of  my  win- 
dow the  sun  was  not  yet  up.  The  town  is  shut  in  on 
three  sides  by  the  huge  perpendicular  walls  of  the 
Gemmi,  and  in  the  early  morning  or  by  moonlight,  as 
we  saw  it  last  night,  these  walls  of  gray  rocks  have  a 
ghastly  aspect.  They  appear  like  grim  giants  looking 
down  on  the  valley  below,  and  are  cold  and  forbidding 
except  when  the  sun  shines  upon  them. 

We  have  seen  the  bathers.     M and  I  were  taken 

into  the  room  where  they  were  submerged  to  the  neck, 
as  each  hotel  has  its  particular  arrangements  for  this 
purpose.  That  of  the  Hotel  des  Alps  consists  of  a  num- 
ber of  robing  rooms,  and  one  large  apartment  about 
twenty  b}^  thirty-five  feet,  this  (with  the  exception 
of  a  platform)  is  divided  into  two  large  tubs,  which 
are  rilled  with  hot  water  from  the  springs.  The  bath- 
ing commences  as  early  as  six  o'clock  in  the  morning ; 
and  when  we  entered,  which  was  before  breakfast, 
twenty-rive  or  thirty  people,  men,  women  and  children, 
were  in  the  water,  dabbling,  and  paddling  about ;  a 
number  of  them  were  taking  breakfast  on  little  floats; 
children  were  playing  at  jack-straws,  while  many  per- 
sons were  amusing  themselves  in  social  conversation, 
playing  at  cards,  and  reading.  Scattered  about  in  the 
tubs  were  a  number  of  little  islands,  which  bobbed  up 
and  down  with  their  floating  plants  and  flowers  on 
the  undulating  surface  of  the  water.     The  breakfasting 


/■  /  / 


y.~ '/ .. 


. 


/•  n  0  M     A  8  B  0  .-I  />. 

did  not  si 'I'll  i   to  impress  M as  being  either  very 

tidy  or  attractive,  the  garments  of  the  bathers  con- 
stantly  dripping  with  water  as  they  sipped  their  cofi 
and  partook  of  their  bread  and  butter.  Tin-  attendant 
informed  us  that  it  was  usual  to  remain  in  the  bath 
from  one  to  four  hours,  and  while  they  were  immersed 
flirtations  could  be  carried  on  quite  as  well  as  on  terra 
firma,  under  more  favorable  circumstances.     It   was  a 

very  novel  sight  to  both  of  us,  and  M has  obtained 

a  photograph  which  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  bathing 
place  just  as  we  saw  it  at  that  time.  The  town  and 
baths,  deserted  as  they  now  arc,  do  not  present  any 
great  attractions  to  us.  so  we  shall  soon  atari  for  Sion, 
at  the  head  of  the  railroad  in  the  valley,  or  for  Lau- 
sanne,  and  Jacob  Snyder  will  drive  us  to  that  point. 

Monday,  September,  0.  We  are  in  the  old  city  of 
Lausanne,  which  we  reached  on  Saturday  night  at  ten 
o'clock.  There  is  not  much  that  is  worth  recording 
concerning  our  journey  from  Leuk  to  this  place.  We 
rode  safely  and  pleasantly  down  the  mountain,  in  one 
hour  and  a  half;  you  will  remember,  it  took  five  hours 
to  get  up.  On  our  way  to  this  place  we  saw  Ladders 
placed  on  the  face  of  the  almost  perpendicular  rocks,  on 
which  the  people  of  the  village  of  Albinem  go  up  and 
down,  their  only  way  to  get  to  their  homes.  It  seems  a 
very  perilous  way.  but  custom  and  usage  from  early 
childhood  make  them  no  doubt  familiar  with  this  diffi- 
cult ascent.  The  men  and  women  of  this  village,  as 
well  as  the  visitors  to  this  town,  must  dress  pretty 
much  a  la  meme.  Wc  dined  at  Sierre  in  the  valley: 
reached  Sion  at  half-past  two  o'clock,  and  then  at 
five  started  by  rail  for  Lausanne  ;  expecting  to  make  it 
in  two  hours,  but  instead  of  that  we  were  five  hours 
on  the  way. 


256  HOME     LETTERS. 

Tired  and  travel-worn,  we  reached  the  hotel  Beau 

Rivage   on  the  lake ;    found   Mr.  and   Mrs.  D in 

the  ball-room  of  the  hotel,  quietly  looking  at  the 
gay  scene  before  them  ;  while  the  dance  and  music 
and  the  bright   light   of  the   gas,   added  a  charm  to 

the   hour,   especially  for   D ,   who   greatly   prefers 

the  civilization  and  exhilaration  of  such  an  occa- 
sion, to  all  of  rural  or  rustic  attraction.  They 
had  given  us  up,  on  account  of  the  expectation  ex- 
pressed before  we  parted,  that  we  would  make  Ville- 
neuve  at  the  head  of  the  lake  by  rail,  and  cross  over  to 
Lausanne  by  boat.  The  boats  had  been  due  some  time, 
and  we  were  for  this  reason  a  surprise,  when  we 
made  our  appearance,  fatigued  and  dusty,  with  coats, 
satchels,  lunch  basket,  and  Alpen-stocks  in  hand,  they 
both  seemed  right  glad  to  see  us,  and  at  once  applied  to 
the  manager  for  rooms.  He  inquired,  did  you  tele- 
graph for  rooms?  "We  said,  no.  He  shook  his  head, 
looked  grave,  and  if  we  did  not  look  gloomy,  we  felt 
for  the  moment  not  very  joyous,  as  we  had  been  on  the 
road  from  early  morning  until  ten  at  night,  with  only 
two  delays,  one  for  dinner  and  one  at  Sion.  The  hotel 
is  half  a  mile  from  the  city,  on  the  lake's  edge,  and 
we  thought  we  were  being  driven  a  great  distance  be- 
fore the  omnibus  drew  up  at  the  door ;  and  now  to 
have  to  turn  back  and  hunt  for  quarters  at  other 
hotels,  was  indeed  a  very  disagreeable  prospect.  But 
the  hesitation  of  the  proprietor  was  only  to  prepare 
us  for  the  announcement  that  we  would  have  to  pay 
a  considerable  sum  for  two  rooms  in  what  they  call  the 
"  Dependence  "  of  the  establishment,  which  we  found 
to  be  a  beautiful  cottage  in  the  grounds,  that  was  sur- 
rounded with  flowers  and  shrubbery.  Our  rooms  were 
a  large  bed-room,  comfortably  furnished,  and  a  very 
neat  parlor,  with  lace  curtains,  and  blue  covered  furni- 


/•/,'  0  M     A  BROAD.  j  :, 

fcure,  with  a  large  window  thai  opened  on  a  little 
balcony  which  overlooked  the  botel  and  it-  extensive 
ornamental  grounds;  the  lake  of  Geneva  waa  almosl 
a1  <>ur  feet,  upon  which  the  moon  was  dow  shining, 
spreading  upon  the  undisturbed  and  silvery  surface  it- 
soft  and  mellow  ray 8.     The  nighl  was  oi f  enticing 

beauty,  and  as  we  turned  from  the  contemplation  of  it 
on  our  balcony,  we  felt  that  we  were  very  fortunate 
indeed  to  obtain  such  delightful  accommodations  on  a 
Saturday  night,  a  time  that  usually  finds  such  places  of 
resort  over-crowded,  even  at  the  cosl  of  aine  francs  a 
day  for  our  rooms.  After  making  our  preparations  for 
bed,  we  pulled  down  the  blinds,  having  told  our  friends 
not  to  exped  us  to  breakfasl  with  them  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  soughl  repose,  which  we  both  fell  was  much 
needed  after  our  week's  experience  of  travel  and  ex- 
citemenl  now  bo  pleasantly  and  safely  ended.  We  felt 
thankful  to  God  for  his  protection  and  the  many  hles- 
sings  vouchsafed  to  us;  life,  health,  delightful  weather 
and  refreshing  rest,  all  these  had  Inch  given  us,  and  we 
would  have  been  ungrateful  indeed,  had  we  not  ac- 
knowledged Our  Father's  kind  and  merciful  care  he  fore 
we  laid  ourselves  down  to  rest.  And  now  for  my 
usual  Nota  Bena.  "  No  headache,  no1  a  twinge  of  neu- 
ralgia," and  [  have  come  to  this  conclusion,  only  give 

M cool  weather,  novelty  and  excitemenl  of  travel, 

plenty  of  u-ood  tea,  often  repeated,  with  a  moderate 
supply  of  substantial  accompaniments  \'<<v  Lunch,  and 
one  who  understands  just  when  to  go  and  where  to 
tarry,  she  can  perform  her  part  in  the  programme  very 
well.  \\'<»uld  you  believe  it!  on  Saturday  morning 
when  we  were  about  to  start  from  the  hotel  at  Leuk,  a 
lady  and  gentleman  took  their  departure  on  mules  for 
a  passage  over  the  G-emmi,  which  required  six  hours 
to  accomplish,  and  M wanted  very  much  that  we 


258  HOME     LETTERS. 

should  abandon  our  intention  of  returning  to  the  valley 
of  the  Rhone,  and  make  our  way  over  the  mountain  to 
Thun,  and  from  there  by  way  of  Bern  reach  Lausanne. 
The  Gemmi  is  much  steeper  and  a  much  more  difficult 

and  dangerous   pass  than  the  Grimsel.      This  M 

well  knew,  but  her  curiosity  and  ambition  were  both 
aroused ;  so  much  did  she  enjoy  her  past  experi- 
ence in  this  dangerous  kind  of  adventure,  that  there 
is  not  much  she  would  not  now  venture  to  undertake. 
But  for  the  present  I  have  enough  of  mule  paths  and 
deep  chasms,  my  head  is  not  yet  steady  from  what  I 
have  passed  over  and  seen,  and,  therefore,  I  declined 
M 's  invitation  to  escort  her  over  the  Gemmi. 

Monday  morning.  We  are  through  with  our  morn- 
ing meal,  and  have  decided  to  go  to  the  head  of  the 
lake  to  visit  the  Castle  of  Chillon,  and  on  our  return 
pass  on  to  Geneva,  having  arranged  with  the  porter  of 
the  hotel  to  have  our  luggage  at  the  wharf  when  the 
boat  touches  on  its  way  down.  After  we  reach  Geneva, 
we  will  decide  what  is  best  to  be  done,  for  the  short 
period  we  have  yet  to  remain  in  Switzerland.  I  hope 
to  reach  Paris  on  Saturday  of  this  week,  as  we  must 
give  a  few  days  to  sight-seeing  and  some  things  which 
we  left  undone  when  visiting  there  before.  Just  one 
month  from  to-day,  we  expect  to  sail  for  home;  it 
was  three  months  yesterday  from  the  day  we  sailed 
from  Kew  York.  And  now  I  have  only  time  to  say 
good-bye,  with  much  love  for  each  and  all  of  our  rela- 
tives and  friends.  My  letter  has  been  written  on  the 
run — hurried  at  every  point,  but  I  hope  you  can  make 
it  out.  J.  A. 


F  B  0  1/     vl  8  H  0  .1  D  . 


/;//.,//,  Saturday^  Sept.  1  'f. 

It  is  now  half-past  nine  p.  m.,  a  late  hour  at  which  to 
commence  a  letter  in  continuation  of  our  home  journal. 
1  go  back  to  Monday  morning  when  T  closed  my  lone, 
very  long  and  perhaps  somewhat  tedious  letter  home, 
jusl  as  we  were  about  to  leave  Lausanne  for  the  head 
of  the  lake  of  Geneva.  We  started  from  the  wharf, 
which  was  quite  near  to  our  hotel,  at  10£  \.  m..  and 
under  the  awning  which  covered  the  deck  of  the 
boal  we  had  a  pleasant  place  from  which  to  view  both 
side-  of  the  beautiful  inland  sea.  on  which  we  were  to 
spend  the --renter  portion  of  the  day.  Our  most  nota- 
ble companions  were  an  English  earl,  his  wife,  two 
son-,  and  two  daughters,  who  were  staying  a1  the 
Beau  Rivage  at  Lausanne;  I  had  noticed  them  at 
breakfast   the  morning  before,  and  without  knowing 

who  or  what  they  were,  remarked,  to  M ,  that  it 

was  the  mosl  agreeable  looking  family  group  that  I  had 
seen  in  a  long  time.  The  younger  members  more  espe- 
cially were  refined  in  manners,  and  carried  with  them 
the  indications  of  high  culture  and  good  training:  the 
earl  appeared  to  be  the  least  attractive  person  of  the 
group,  and  was  evidently  a  plain  and  rather  common- 
place man,  but  they  all  bore  themselves  with  great 
modesty  and  reserve,  keeping  much  to  the  society  of 
each  other.  At  Vevay  a  party  of  Americans  came  on 
board,  who  were.  X  am  sorry  to  say.  very  rude.      Mrs. 

D heard  the  English  lady  remark:  "here  comesthis 

party  of  American-  again,*'  showing  that  they  had  met 
before.  Some  of  these  persons  had  en  ssed  on  the 
"  Scotia  "  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  I.) and   there  was  no 


260  HOME     LETTERS. 

escape  from  a  recognition  and  exchange  of  salutations. 
Our  ride  up  the  lake  with  the  exception  of  this  annoy- 
ance was  a  very  delightful  one,  the  shore  along  which 
our  hoat  skirted  was  highly  cultivated,  studded  with 
towns,  villages,  country  seats,  large  and  imposing  pen- 
sions. The  vine  is  extensively  planted  on  the  hill 
sides,  and  occasionally  corn  in  small  patches.  The 
lower  range  of  mountains  along  the  shore,  come  down 
to  meet  the  water,  and  back  of  these  again,  were  the 
higher  snow-capped  range  of  which  Mont  Blanc  con- 
stitutes the  chief  glory,  as  indeed  it  does,  of  all  the 
mountains  of  Switzerland,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  called 
the  Grand  Monarch.  Our  destination  was  the  castle 
of  Chillon,  which  the  genius  of  Byron  has  invested 
with  so  much  of  poetic  interest ;  his  "  Prisoner  of 
Chillon,"  having  made  a  pilgrimage  to  this  ancient 
structure  indispensable  to  all  who  visit  this  part  of  the 
world.  The  castle  has  had  an  eventful  history  since 
Amedius  of  Savoy  built  it  in  1238  for  a  prison  house, 
with  its  walls  of  immense  thickness,  and  its  turrets, 
which  tower  above  the  building,  springing  out  of  its 
four  corners.  Three  hundred  years  thereafter  it  was 
invested  by  seven  thousand  Bernees  and  captured,  and 
all  the  prisoners  including  Bonivard  were  released. 
Bonivard  is  the  hero  of  the  poem  which  has  made 
Chillon  so  well  known.  His  story  is  not  a  creation  of 
the  poet's  imagination,  for  here  he  was  confined  in 
these  gloomy  dungeons,  chained  to  its  pillars  of  stone, 
with  the  rock  for  his  bed,  during  his  many  years  of 
solitary  suffering.  Our  boat  landed  us  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  below  the  castle,  which  compelled  us  to  hire  a 
small  skiff,  at  one  franc  each,  to  take  us  to  it,  and  this 
threw  us  again  in  companionship  with  some  of  the 
American  party  we  wished  to  avoid.  "We  were  rowed 
by  a  lazy  boy  who  tried  to  see  with  how  little  outlay 


F  11  <>  M     A  B  U  GAD. 

of  strength  he  could  gel  us  there.  We  landed  at  the 
upper  side  of  the  castle,  and  ascending  a  short  flight  of 
stairs,  found  ourselves  upon  a  plank  platform,  con- 
structed over  what  was  once  a  portion  of  the  lake, 
which  in  former  days  completely  surrounded  the  build- 
ing, but  which  is  now  to  a  great  extenl  filled  up  with 
earth  and  stone.  The  water  flows  around  it  on  three 
sides,  and  when  our  cicerone  conducted  us  to  the  por- 
tion first  exhibited,  it  seemed  as  if  we  had  got  into  an 
arsenal  by  mistake;  for  much  of  the  floor  is  covered 
with  cannon,  all  of  which  belong  to  the  Canton  of 
Yand.  AW-  were  shown  the  room  in  which  a  well 
opens,  having  it ^  bottom  in  the  lake,  and  to  which 
prisoners  condemned  to  this  mode  of  death  were  taken; 
it  ha-  three  steps  "f  -tunc,  on  which  the  doomed  bega*n 
their  dark  descent,  when  the  fourth  advance  plunged 
them  down  many  feet  to  the  water  below,  where  the 
bodies  in  due  time  washed  out  into  the  lake,  with  which 
the  well  communicates,  and  thus  ended  their  chapter  "t' 
life.  We  were  next  conducted  to  the  lower  portion 
of  the  castle,  where  are  stairs  leading  down  from  the 
hall  of  the  secret  tribunal,  and  a  cell  hewn  out  of  tie' 
solid  rock  in  which  all  who  wn-r  sentenced  to  death 
were  compelled  to  pass  their  last  night  on  earth,  it  1 
two  hollow  place-  cut  in  the  stone  upon  which  they 
were  required  to  recline  before  being  led  from  thenceto 
execution,  and  adjoining  this  again  is  another  small 
apartment,  dark  and  very  gloomy,  with  a  huge  beam 
overhead  ;  this  was  the  gallows  of  the  prison.  Tic  cell 
in  which  Bonivard  was  confined  is  the  largest  of  a 
range  of  dungeons  in  which  the  reformers  and  pris- 
oners of  state  were  confined  :  but  it  i-  not  a  forbidding 
apartment,  and  is  (perhaps)  thirty  feci  in  length  and 
twenty  broad,  into  which  the  light  is  admitted 
through    loopholes,   which    open    upon    the   lake   view. 


OQ2  HOME     LETTERS. 

It  contains  eight  pillars  of  stone,  extending  the  entire 
length  of  the  room,  to  these  the  prisoners  were 
chained ;  and  in  the  stone  floor,  about  the  one  to  which 
Bonivard  was  fastened,  deep  indentations  are  to  be 
seen,  made  it  is  said  by  the  tread  of  the  captive. 
Upon  this  pillar  are  inscribed  the  names  of  Byron, 
Victor  Hugo,  and  Dickens,  which  are  claimed  to  be 
genuine.  Byron  has  written  of  this  dungeon, "  Chillon  ! 
thy  prison  is  a  holy  place,  and  thy  sad  floor  an  altar, 
for  it  was  trod  until  his  footsteps  have  left  a  trace, 
worn  as  if  the  cold  pavement  were  a  sod  by  Bonivard ; 
may  none  these  marks  efface,  for  they  appeal  from 
tyranny  to  God."  This  castle  has  inscribed  over  its 
doorway :  "  May  God  bless  all  who  come  in,  and  go 
out."  It  was  often  used  by  the  Dukes  of  Savoy  as  a 
place  of  residence,  afterwards  as  a  state  prison,  and 
since  1798,  has  served  as  a  military  arsenal.     Before 

we  left,  I  obtained  for  M some  leaves  of  ivy  which 

grew  upon  its  walls,  and  in  the  low  ground  between 
the  castle  and  the  highway,  I  found  a  bed  of  forget- 
me-nots  growing  luxuriantly  ;  of  these  I  obtained  a 
handful,  as  souvenirs  of  our  visit ;  and  then  we  re- 
turned in  our  skiff  with  its  lazy  propeller  to  the  wharf, 
but  only  to  see  the  Lake  Steamer  start  off  some  ten 
minutes  before  we  reached  it,  which  compelled  us  to 
tarry  half  an  hour  for  a  second  one. 

We  refreshed  ourselves  with  fruit,  pears,  plums,  and 
delicious  white  grapes^  which  are  now  ripe,  and  to  be 
had  in  great  abundance  for  a  mere  trifle.  If  ever  Will 
or  Perrin  come  to  Europe,  it  must  be  at  this  season, 
for  they  could  satisfy  their  fondness  for  grapes  at  very 
small  cost.  For  ten  cents  a  pound  you  can  buy  white 
grapes,  better  than  the  Malaga,  and  by  the  quantity 
they  are  to  be  obtained  for  half  that  price.  We 
arrived  at  Geneva  before  sundown,  having  passed  on 


/••  R  0  U      ADR  i)  A  I> . 

our  way  V"evay,  the  Castle  of  Kauteville,  Montreux, 
Clarens,  and  other  towns  and  villages  and  objects  of 
interest,  including  an  old  tower,  the  remains  of  an 
ancienl   castle  buill    by  the  Romans  when   they  held 

possession  of  this  country.     On  the  boal  M and  I 

go1  an  excellenl  dinner,  this  aided  to  keep  off  an 
attack  of  neuralgia  until  we  reached  Geneva.  We 
drove  at  once  with  our  baggage  to  the  Bote]  De  la 
Paix,  which  we  found  to  be  an  excellenl  house.  Our 
room  was  upon  what  they  call  the  second,  bul  really 
the  third  floor,  fronting  upon  the  lake,  with  a  portion 
of  Geneva  on  the  opposite  Bide  in  view.  The  hotel  is 
jusl  at  the  point  where  the  Rhone  river  flows  oul  from 
the  lower  end  of  the  lake  to  make  it-  way  through 
Switzerland  and  France  to  the  Mediterranean  :  this 
part  of  Geneva  is  new  and  most  of  the  buildings  are 
large  and  imposing;  the  principal  hotels  fronting  <>n 
the  water,  with  four  very  beautiful  bridges  spanning 
the  head  of  the  lake  and  the  river.  At  night, 
when  these  Large  hotels  and  the  lamps  on  the  bridg 
are  lighted,  the  reflection  upon  the  water  with 
alternate  light  and  shade  is  exceedingly  beautiful. 
Altogether  Geneva  is  a  pleasant,  clean  city,  especially 
the  new  portion  of  it,  the  cleanest  of  all  the  old 
cities  of  Germany  and  Switzerland  that  we  have 
visited.  As  we  drove  through  it.  we  saw  upon  a 
sign  the  name  of  Perrin,  no  doubl  a  genuine  descend- 
ant of  old  Amie,  who  was  such  a  thorn  in  Calvin's 
side.  Grandpa  will  remember  my  frequent  mention  of 
the  old  gentleman  who  bore  his  name,  that  has  been 
handed  down  in  the  history  of  the  reformation  a-  a 
man  of  great  force  of  character,  and  who  was  at  one 
time  the  leader  of  the  malcontent-  in  Geneva. 

We  remained  in  Geneva,  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  and 
until  the  afternoon  of  Thursday.     On  Tin-day  before 


vqji^  110  ME     LETTERS. 

breakfast  hour  I  hastened  to  the  banker's  for  letters, 
but  imagine  my  disappointment  at  getting  only  one, 
mailed  on  the  20th  of  August,  from  Grandpa,  I  felt 
certain  that  Minnie  must  have  written  to  us,  and  that 
the  post-office  arrangements,  or  the  bankers  were  at 
fault,  and  of  this  I  was  assured  next  morning  when  on 
calling  at  the  banker's  office,  I  received  a  second-letter 
from  Grandpa,  mailed  August  26th,  and  in  which 
mention  was  made  of  his  having  mailed,  on  the  20th, 
a  lone  letter  from  Minnie.  I  asked  the  banker  to 
allow  me  to  look  over  the  large  number  of  communi- 
cations forwarded  to  his  address,  to  which  he  kindly 
consented,  but  there  was  nothing  to  my  direction, 
so  we  had  to  content  ourselves  with  Grandpa's  very 
full  double  sheet,  and  this  we  literally  devoured.  I 
received  at  the  same  time  seven  papers,  Press  and  Tri- 
bune, mailed  from  Paris,  where  they  had  been  accumu- 
lating for  some  time.  Thursday's  mail  brought  no 
intelligence  of  the  missing  letter,  which  we  both 
greatly  regret ;  but  we  are  glad  and  thankful  to  hear 
so  minutely  from  home  by  Grandpa's  hand.  God  has 
kept  all  the  dear  ones  in  safety  and  in  good  health,  for 
which  we  thank  Him.  Perrin,  we  are  glad  to  learn, 
was  at  home  and  well,  and  had  enjoyed  his  trip  up  the 
Hudson.  Will,  I  hope,  has  had  his  Boston  visit  before 
leaving  for  Somerville.  We  send  much  love  to  both, 
and  hope  soon  to  see  them  again,  if  spared  for  a  safe 
return ;  how  anxiously  will  we  look  for  them  upon 
Pier  45  as  the  vessel  nears  the  shore.  Anions:  the 
most  tender  recollections  connected  with  our  departure, 
is  the  remembrance  of  the  group  upon  the  wharf  as  our 
ship  moved  away  and  gradually  lost  them  to  our  sight. 
Dear  little  Perrin  !  I  can  see  him  now,  as  he  stood 
wiping  the  tears  from  his  eyes  and  sought  to  shelter 
himself  behind    the   others ;  it  was  to  us  a   touching 


FR  0  M     .1  B  S  0  .1  /'. 

thoughl   thai   sister  Jane   has  written  as   in  her   1 
letter,  thai  Pernio  wished  to  go  to  New   York  by  boa 
because  he  imagined  he  would  then  be  nearer  to  Papa 
and    Mamma    by   so   doing.      We  were   both    greatly 
moved  by  the  imagined   lessening  of  the  distance  be- 
tween ii-  and  our  dear  little  boy. 

We  Bpenl  pari  of  both  Tuesday  and  Wednesday 
visiting  the  shops  of  Geneva,  with  which  we  were 
greatly  disappointed;  they  are  generally  small,  and  did 
not  answer  our  expectations,  aa  we  had  been  told,  this 
was  the  place  to  buy  cheap,  with  a  large  variety  to 
selecl  from;  but  we  found  ou1  ourmistake  when  it  w; 

too  late-.     Thursday  M and   I  drove  to   the   old 

Cathedral,  now  the  principal  Protestanl  church  of  the 
city,  where  Calvin  preached.  Time  has  made  little 
change,  it  remains  very  nearly  as  i1  stood  then,  with 
the  same  pulpit  and  scats;  the  portion  appropriated  to 
the  Roman  Catholic  Chapter  of  the  Cathedral  is  aow 
used  by  the  Protestanl  professors  and  the  officers  of 
the  church.  Calvin's  chair  of  black  walnut,  stand-  by 
the  reading  desk.  What  an  impress  his  giant  mind 
has  left  npon  the  world,  and  as  1  sal  in  his  chair  I  re- 
called the  words  brother  John  once  expressed  to  me, 
thai  Calvin's  [nstitutes  were  at  this  day  the  besl  em- 
bodiment of  Calvinistic  theology  to  be  found;  and  all 
of  subsequenl  exposition  had  added  but  little  to  the 
force  and  clearness  of  his  writings.  Hi>  burial-place 
is  unknown,  having  directed  that  no  monument 
should  be  erected  over  his  grave;  nor  is  it  certain 
in  which  house  in  this  city  he  lived  :  a  city  *>\  which 
for  many  years  he  was  the  life  and  power.  There  is 
in  this  Cathedral  the  stat  ue  of  Prince  Henry  de  Rohan, 
the  chief  of  the  Euguenots,  surmounting  a  Mack  mar- 
ble sarcophagus  resting  npon  two  lion-,    the   Duke  is 

represented  in  a  sitting  posture.     We  were  interested 

is 


266  HOME     LETTERS. 

in  the  monument  of  Agrippa  D'Aubigny,  from  whom  I 
conjecture  the  present  distinguished  professor,  and 
author  of  the  history  of  the  Reformation,  is  descended. 
The  republic  of  Geneva,  (he  died  in  exile  from  his 
native  country  France,)  erected  this  monument  to  his 
memory.  From  the  Cathedral  we  drove  to  the  resi- 
dence of  Merle  D'Aubigny,  which  is  a  mile  or  more  in 
the  country,  on  the  road  that  passes  along  the  north 
side  of  the  lake.  It  is  surrounded  by  trees  and  shrub- 
bery, stands  about  fifty  feet  from  the  street,  and  seems 

to  be  in  a  neglected  condition.     M wished  me  to 

go  in  and  tell  him  I  was  a  friend  of  the  Rev.  Albert 
Barnes  and  Dr.  Samuel  Hanson  Cox,  and  that  I  desired 
to  pay  my  respects  to  him,  but  this  I  declined,  first,  be- 
cause I  did  not  know  that  we  could  speak  in  a  lan- 
guage each  would  understand  ;  secondly,  because  I  felt 
that  such  a  call,  however  gratifying  to  myself,  might 
be  an  intrusion  upon  him.  D'Aubigny  it  is  evident 
has  not  the  taste  for  out-door  occupations,  in  the  practi- 
cal manner  that  our  neighbor  Mr.  Barnes  has,  and 
probably  not  half  his  industry,  or  his  garden  and 
grounds  would  not  present  so  neglected  an  appear- 
ance. We  were  rather  disappointed  and  unpleasantly 
impressed  by  what  we  saw  of  the  surroundings  and 
home  of  D'Aubigny  ;  and  I  will  take  occasion  to  re- 
mark that  we  have  some  model  men,  as  well  as  a  model 
country,  and  I  am  sure  we  have  a  model  neighbor,  who, 
taking  him  all  in  all,  it  would  be  difficult  to  excel. 
There  is  a  Greek  church  or  chapel  in  Geneva  of  very 
beautiful  proportions  and  architecture,  in  which  ser- 
vice is  performed  every  morning  at  eleven  o'clock,  we 
had  arranged  to  be  present  on  Thursday  morning,  but 
our  leaving  on  that  day  prevented. 

On    our    return    from    D'Aubigny's    home    as    we 
passed   the   Metropolitan    Hotel,   I   saw   Mr.    Gibson 


f>r.    Jfcrlc   '/)\Aiibif/jir. 


FB  0  M     A  J:  /.'  OA  D. 
and  A.llie  sitting  a1  the  window;  he  said  Mr-,  <; 


was  closelj  confined  al  the  sick  hed  of  her  sod  I  Coward, 
who  bas  been  very  ill  with  typhus  fever,  and  thai  they 
ha  vf  on  this  account  been  detained  a1  <  teneva  ten  days. 
I  had  seen  Mr.  <  J — — ">  name  registered  al  the  banker's, 
bu1  supposed  they  had   lefl  ;  be  said  be  would  bring 

Mrs.  <i ■  to  sec  us  before  four  o'clock,  the  bour  of 

our  expected  departure;  at  two  o'clock  they  came,  and 
made  us  a  very  pleasant  visit  of  an  hour.      We  hade 
"good-bye"  to  our  former  pleasant  ueighbors  with  re- 
gret, not  expecting  to  see  them  again  for  many  days. 
There    arc    many   objects   of    interesl     in   and   about 
Geneva,  (the  Rome  of  Switzerland,)  which  for  want  of 
time  were  left  unvisited,  but  our  great  and  chief  re- 
gret when  we  turned  our  faces  homeward  was  leaving 
Chamouni   and  St.  Bernard    unseen.      I  fully  realize 
now  what   Mr.  Joseph   Earrison  said   to  me  a  day  or 
two   before   I.  left    Philadelphia:   that    no   one   should 
think  of  giving  less  than  three  years  for  a  satisfactory 
visit   to   Europe.     Some  persons  can  almost  annihi] 
distance  and  get  over  a  great  deal  of  space  in  a  very 
short  time,  travel  day  and  night,  reach  a  great  city  or 
point  of  attraction  in  the  morning,  leave  it  in  the  even- 
ing, turn  enjoyment  into  actual  labor  and  go  home  to 
tell  that  in  three  months  they  have  been  all  over  the 
Continent,  as  well  as   England,  Ireland,  Scotland  and 
Wales.      We  have  seen  but  little  comparatively  it    La 
true,  but  we  have  seen  it  satisfactorily,  and  we  hope 
with  benefit. 

Thursday  we  bade  good-bye  to  our  friend-.  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  JL> ;  Mrs.  D at  the  hotel,  and  Mr.  D 

at  the  depot.  He  was  very  much  affected  at  our  separa- 
tion, could  not  repress  his  tears,  came  back  and  kissed 
M a  second  time,  kissed  me  when  our  final  adieu 


268  HOME     LETTERS. 

was  spoken,  and  as  long  as  we  could  see  him,  remained 
at  the  station,  waving  his  handkerchief  to  us  as  the 
cars  each  moment  carried  us  farther  and  farther  away. 
He  is  all  heart  and  tenderness,  as  gentle  in  his  nature 
as  a  woman,  and  our  ten  weeks  of  association  has  much 
increased  our  esteem  for  him.  I  never  knew  a  more 
unselfish  person,  or  one  possessed  of  greater  natural 
delicacy  than  Daniel  Dougherty.  I  shall  always  value 
him  for  the  great  good  which  I  have  discovered  in  him, 
and   with    pleasure   record    that    our   association   has 

doubly  endeared  him  to  both  M and  myself.     My 

best  wishes  go  with  him.  He  is  longing  for  his  dear 
home  and  children ;  says  that  when  he  gets  back  to 
Philadelphia  and  to  the  treasures  it  contains  he  will 
never  want  to  leave  it  again.  He  loves  his  own  land 
the  more  by  contrasting  it  with  all  that  he  has  seen 
abroad,  (as  all  true  Americans  do  ;)  but  desires  to  make 
his  tour  complete  at  this  time,  then  go  home  to  stay 
there,  and  enjoy  dear  Philadelphia,  as  he  terms  it.  I 
send  my  kindest  and  most  affectionate  thoughts  back 
to  him,  and  pray  that  God  may  guard  and  guide  him 
safely  on  his  journey  through  life,  and  bring  him  to 
an  everlasting  rest  hereafter.  Our  way  followed  the 
lake  of  Geneva,  almost  to  Lausanne;  the  atmosphere 
was  clear  and  consequently  we  had  a  fine  view  of  lake 
and  mountain,  and  the  snow-covered  range  beyond 
Mont  Blanc.  About  twilight  the  lake  of  Neuchatel 
came  into  view,  and  as  the  sun  went  down  the  moon 
came  up  and  shed  her  soft  and  mellow  light  upon  its 
waters ;  but  it  is  not  considered  nearly  so  attractive  as 
the  lake  of  Geneva,  and  in  my  judgment,  neither  can 
compare  in  beauty  with  that  of  Lucerne,  of  which  I 
wrote  you  in  the  letter  which  was  mailed  at  Inter- 
laken,  just  two  weeks  ago  to-day. 

We  reached  J^euchatel  about  half-past  nine  o'clock  ; 


/■/■'  0  M     A  Jl  /.'  0  A  D. 

were  driven  to  the  E6tel  Bellevue,  the  only  really  good 
one  in  tli«'  place,  to  be  informed  thai  they  were  full, 
and  thai  we  could  qo1   be  accommodated.     Our  omni- 
bus turned  away  and  we  soughl  another  resting  pla 
for  the  night,  which  we  found  a1   the  E6tel  des  Ai 
very  plain,  do1  much  to  boasl  of  in  any  respect,  but  we 
were  on  the  road,  had  reached  our  stopping-place,  and 
so  there  was  no  help  for  it.     We  made  the  besl   of  our 
situation   in  this  old  city  which  has  little  to  induce 
travellers  t<>  tarry  long  within  it;  the  morning  found 
as  refreshed,  and  after  breakfasl  we  toot  the  train  for 
Dijon,  where  we  are  now;  bul  where  we  did  not  exjx 
to  remain  so  Long,  hoping  to  reach  Paris  by  Saturday 
aight.    The  day  proved  to  be  very  hot,  and  by  the  time 

we  drove  to  the  hotel  M. was  really  sick  with  an 

attack  of  neuralgia,  she  was  so  ill  she  could  not  go 
down  tO'dinner  a1  six,  so  I  ordered  for  her  ten  and  ;i 
delicate  piece  of  roast  chicken,  in  the  hope  that  nourish- 
ment would  be  of  some  service  to  her,  bu1  she  could  do 
no  more  than  taste  her  tea,  and  back  to  her  pillows 
again.  All  nigh.1  long  she  suffered,  and  the  morning 
found  her  so  unwell  that  we  were  afraid  to  start  tor 
Pari-,  and  made  up  our  minds  to  tarry  in  our  pleasant 
quarters  until  Monday. 

Saturday  morning.      M. thought   the   fresh   air 

might  be  of  service  to  her,  so  we  hired  a  carriage  'had 
a  coachman  in  livery)  for  an  hour's  inspection  of 
this  old  capital  of  Burgundy,  and  had  a  v.rv  pleasant 
drive  through  the  city  and  its  park.  I  went  int..  The 
"  Palace  of  Justice,"  their  court -house,  and  was  shown 
all  through  by  the  concierge ;  -he  pointed  out  the  chair 
of  the  Presidenl  Justice,  and  when  I  made  her  under- 
stand that  I  was  a  President  Justice  in  America,  she 
took    me   to   an   ante-room,  to  show   me   the   robes   of 


270  HOME     LETTERS. 

office,  and  taking  out  a  gown  of  black  and  scarlet  silk, 
with  ermine  trimmings,  and  a  chapeau  with  a  gilt 
band,  she  completely  invested  me  with  them.  She 
seemed  greatly  surprised  when  I  made  her  understand 
that  in  America,  because  we  were  Republicans,  we 
wore  nothing  but  plain  clothing.  She  exclaimed  when 
she  looked  at  me  in  my  gorgeous  habiliments,  "  Joli, 
joli,"  which  is  the  French  word  for  beautiful. 

After  a  drive  through  the  city,  we  dismissed  our 

coachman  with  his  expected  "  pour-boire,"  while  M 

and  I  sauntered  along  the  shop  windows,  occasionally 
venturing  inside  to  make  inquiries  as  to  prices.  The 
French  word  "combien,"  always  brings  a  prompt  reply 
from  the  attendant  in  the  store.  This  word  here,  and 
"  wie  viel,"  in  Germany,  enables  you  to  open  a  conver- 
sation at  any  time  with  those  who  have  anything  to 
sell ;  even  if  the  balance  of  the  interview  must  be 
made  up  of  signs,  looks  and  gestures.  Another  way  is  to 
go  in  boldly  and  commence  talking  English,  just  as  if 
you  were  understood,  and  you  can  soon  put  the  most 
fluent  Frenchman  at  disadvantage ;  he  becomes  con- 
fused, shrugs  his  shoulders,  and  begs  for  quarter.  It  is 
very  much  like  the  first  blow  in  a  fight,  to  stun  your 
antagonist  is  a  contest  half  gained. 

Our  ride  on  Friday  was  in  part  along  the  valley  of 
the  Reuse,  as  we  had  left  the  Alps  behind  us,  we  were 
now  to  keep  company  with  the  Jura  range  of  moun- 
tains for  a  considerable  part  of  the  day ;  sometimes  at 
their  feet,  again  high  up  on  their  sides.  We  never  in 
any  one  day  passed  through  so  many  tunnels,  and  later 
in  the  journey  we  followed  the  Val  d'Travers,  through 
its  level  meadow  lands,  which  are  highly  cultivated — 
with  the  wooded  slopes  of  the  Jura  on  both  sides  of 
us.  We  entered  a  narrow  defile  called  La  Cluse, 
through    which    both    the    railway    and    high    road 


/  R  0  M     A  B  8  0 A  I). 

run-,  which  is  strongly  fortified,  as  it  is  a  natural 
gateway  between  France  and  Switzerland,  I  could 
hm|  ascertain  with  certainty  whether  the  fortifica- 
tions were  French  or  Swiss,  so  aear  are  they  to 
the  line  which  divides  the  two  countries.  At  Pon- 
tarlier,  a  small  town,  ;i  little  further  on,  we  were 
assured  we  were  on  Swiss  soil  uo  longer,  for  here  we 
had  again  to  leave  our  car,  take  everything  with 

and   go  through  the  farce  of  another  examinatii f 

baggage.  It  was  like  all  tin-  others  we  have  passed 
through,  light  enough,  but  very  troublesome  and 
annoying.  Monsieur  pu1  his  hand  into  my  trunk, 
which  1  had  opened,  and  asked  "Segar?"  to  which 
I  replied,  "No  perfume,"  then  he  chalked  it  and  I 
passed  on.  At  the  exit  door,  however,  I  v.  _  in 
stopped  by  a  man  in  uniform,  who  examined  my  lunch 
basket,  which  I  carried  in  my  hand,  and  upon  which 
the  chalk  mark  had  uo1  been  placed.  I  had  to  return 
with  it  to  the  inspector,  who  upon  presentation  at  oi 
crossed  it,  and  the  man  in  uniform,  and  [,  exchanged 
profound  hows  as  I  passed  out.  I  hope  I  may  get 
through  with  as  little  t  rouble  when  I  laud  on  American 
soil,  and  have  to  pass  the  ordeal  of  the  X<\v  York 
officials.  Both  M and  1  hade  good-bye  to  Swit- 
zerland with  much  regret;  the  people  were  more  to 
our  mind  than  those  of  any  other  country  we  have 
been  in,  and  they  are  the  cleanest  of  all  with  whom  we 
have  been  brought  in  contact,  uot  only  in  their  per- 
sons but  in  their  dress,  even  the  women  who  work  in 
the  field- are  clothed  with  good  taste,  having  in  their 
working  suits  a  regard  for  contrasts  in  color  that  are 
pleasing  to  the  eye,  while  about  their  houses  and  barns 
everything  is  neatness  itself;  they  are  hard  workii  _. 
industrious  and  independent;  in  the  development  of 
these  qualities,  they  have  had  the  training  oi  centurii 


272  HOME     LETTERS. 

the  very  air  they  breathe  is  the  air  of  freedom  ;  while 
their  mountains  seem  to  laugh  at  successful  invasions, 
or  at  least  at  permanent  possession  of  their  country. 
They  love  "  their  rocks  and  rills,  their  woods  and 
templed  hills,"  with  a  devotion  which  impels  them  to 
bid  defiance  to  kingly  power  and  standing  armies,  that 
hem  them  in  on  every  hand,  but  which,  strong  as  they 
are,  do  not  dare  to  set  foot  upon  Swiss  soil. 

The  night  cm  which  we  arrived  at  Geneva,  we  heard 
a  great  noise  in  the  street  near  our  hotel,  and  were 
informed  that  Garibaldi  was  making  a  speech  to  the 

people  at  the  corner  above.     Mr.  D and  I  ran  out 

and  mingled  with  the  crowd,  but  the  speech,  which 
had  been  brief,  was  ended  before  we  got  there,  and 
Garibaldi  had  retired  to  his  quarters,  but  the  scene 
was  so  like  our  own  gatherings  of  the  people  just 
before  or  after  an  election,  that  I  was  reminded 
strongly  of  home.  There  was  the  same  excitement, 
the  same  freedom  of  thought  and  action,  the  same 
consciousness  of  power  residing  in  the  masses,  that  I 
have  so  often  witnessed  in  our  own  now  free  land  ; 
nowhere  else  on  the  continent  of  Europe  could  such  a 
meeting  have  been  held,  and  such  a  speech  as  Garibaldi 
is  reported  to  have  made,  found  free  and  safe  utterance. 
Calvin,  though  many  years  dead,  yet  lives  in  his 
spiritual  life,  not  only  in  Geneva,  but  in  all  of  Protes- 
tant Switzerland  ;  and  that  spirit  is  the  political  life  of 
the  country. 

Garibaldi  was  a  member  of  a  peace  convention,  so- 
called,  which  was  in  session  in  Geneva  while  we  were 
there,  yet  his  speech  on  the  evening  referred  to  began 
with  this  sentence :  "  Citizens  of  Geneva,  I  am  a  revo- 
lutionist." The  scarlet  clad  hero,  so  loved  by  the 
people  of  Europe  who  pant  for  freedom,  was  cheered 
•by  the  citizens  of  free  Switzerland,  when  he  thus  pub- 


/•'/.'  OM     ADR  o  A  I) . 

licly  declared  war  upon  the  governments  which  now 
rule  i  he  hind. 

Mr.  D and  I  both  decided  to         Garibaldi,  and 

the  nexl  day  we  wenl  to  the  convention,  and  offered  a 
half  franc  each  for  a  card  of  admission;  when  a  book 
was  presented  for  our  signal  urea  to  a  statemenl  of  prin- 
ciples to  which  everyone  who  obtained  admission  to 
the  convention  was  required  to  subscribe.  Bui  it  was 
in  French ;  qo  one  could  interprel  for  us  and  we  both 
hesitated  to  put  our  names  to  thai  which  we  did  not 
understand,  and  which  might  al  some  time  place  us 
under  embarrassment.  At  any  rate  it  was  a  Leap  in 
the  dark,  which  neither  of  us  fell  free  to  take  ;  and  yet 
we  wished  to  see  Garibaldi,  so  I  suggested  to  Daniel 
that  one  name  was  just  as  good  as  another.  \  first 
wrote  the  name  of  John  Jones,  and  he  thai  of  John 
Smith,  Jr.;  and  we  obtained  our  cards  and  passed  in. 
After  waiting  a  long  while  Garibaldi  made  his  appear- 
ance upon  the  stage,  and  was  greeted  with  applati 
1  [e  lias  a  stout,  well-knit  frame,  wears  his  hair  long  and 
curling  about  his  head,  and  Looked  Like  one  Buited  to 
lead  the  masses  in  an  effort  for  the  achievement  of  great 
results,     [was  soon  satisfied;  -aw  all  that  I  expected 

to  sec  by  the  paymenl  of  my  half  franc;  hut  Mr.  D 

remained  several  hours  longer  to  list  en  to  speeches  in 
French,  German,  and  Italian,  and  came  home  much 
gratified  by  his  visit.  In  the  evening  of  the  same  day, 
while  we  were  dining,  Garibaldi  drove  past  in  a  carriage  . 
on  his  way  to  dine  with  a  gentleman  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Geneva,  and  we  saw  him  a  second  time. 

Sunday,  September  15.  I  am  home  from  church,  and 
you  are  just  about  getting  up  in  the  morning.  In 
keeping  note  of  time,  one  should  always  bear  in  mind 
the  difference  in  latitude   and  Longitude.     We  are  at 


27J^  HOME     LETTERS. 

this  point  about  six  hours  earlier  than  you  are  in 
Philadelphia,  but  the  day  is  the  same  to  both  of  us,  the 
holy  Sabbath  day.  After  breakfast  I  made  inquiry  of 
the  gargon,  who  speaks  English,  if  there  was  French 
Protestant  worship  in  Dijon ;  and  was  informed  that 
there  was ;  taking  his  direction  as  to  where  and  how  I 
could  find  the  place,  I  started  off  upon  my  search.  I 
found  without  any  difficulty  the  neighborhood  and 
even  the  building  in  which  church  service  was  held,  it 
was  in  a  part  of  the  old  palace  of  the  Dukes  of  Bur- 
gundy, for  Dijon  was  once  the  seat  of  kingly  power 
and  the  capital  of  the  race  who  under  the  title  of  dukes 
exercised  all  the  offices  of  royalty.  The  building  is 
very  extensive,  and  is  now  used  for  various  purposes, 
a  part  of  it  is  appropriated  to  the  museum  of  the  city ; 
but  I  was  in  a  quandary  to  know  how  I  could  find  that 
for  which  I  was  seeking,  and  at  a  venture  I  addressed 
a  Frenchwoman,  who  was  standing  in  her  door,  and 
said,  "parlez-vous  Anglais,  Madame?"  and  received 
this  reply :  "  No,  no,  Monsieur."  I  then  said  "  Protes- 
tant Chapel ; "  to  which  she  answered,  "  oui,  oui,  Mon- 
sieur," and  started  at  once  to  cross  the  street,  showing 
me  through  one  of  the  courtways  of  the  palace,  and 
pointing  to  a  door  in  the  far  corner  of  the  large  court- 
yard; I  left  her  with  a  bow,  and  the  usual  "merci 
Madame,"  a  politeness  that  is  never  dispensed  with  by 
the  French,  even  in  the  humblest  walks  of  life,  for  the 
slightest  favor,  and  which  in  return  is  expected  of  every 
one  in  their  intercourse  with  them.  In  manner  at  least 
they  are  the  most  polite  people  I  have  ever  met. 
English  gruffness  and  American  thoughtlessness  are 
often  at  fault,  in  not  using  the  polite  phrases  of  the 
country  which  pass  so  freely  here,  by  which  much 
might  be  gained  often,  that  is  otherwise  lost. 

I  made  my  way  into  a  vestibule,  and  opening  a  large 


F  U  0  M   A  B  E  0  A  I) . 

door,  found  myself  in  a  little  chapel,  in  which  were 
assembled  aboul  twenty-five  persons,  afterwards  in- 
creased by  the  entrance  of  five  or  six  more.  The 
building,  or  rather  the  room,  had  evidently  been 
fitted  up  top  Protestanl  worship;  apon  tin-  walls  in 
plaster  was  the  representation  of  the  descent  of  the 
Holy  Ghost,  in  the  form  of  a  dove,  and  angels  ac- 
companying the  Divine  Spirit  on  its  mi— ion  to  earth. 
Tlu'ii  how  sweet   to  me  seemed    the  li  ■  familiar 

from  childhood :  "  Come,  Holy  Spirit,  Heavenly  Dove." 
Though  I  did  not  understand  much  of  the  service,  I 
felt  thai  in  spirit  \  could  worship  with  that  little  con- 
gregation of  believers,  as  well  a-  it'  we  used  the  same 
speech.  There  is  one  language  understood  by  all  who 
are  the  same  in  faith  and  hope  of  salvation.  Another 
glance  showed  nie  how  well  we  understand  where 
sympathies  and  belief  are  blended  :  for  back  of  the 
little  -tone  pulpit,  in  large  gilt  letters,  was  inscribed 
in  French,  "  God  is  a  Spirit,  and  they  that  worship 
Him  musl  worship  Him  in  Spirit  and  in  truth."'  At 
the  other  end  of  the  room  was  a  small  organ,  with  a 
large  clock  upon  its  face,  at  which  a  lady  sat  alone  as 
the  performer.  I  looked  over  the  audience,  and  with 
the  exception  of  half  a  dozen,  they  were  persons  in  very 
humble  circumstances.  Several  had  on  Bmock  frocks, 
clean,  all  of  them,  but  marking  the  wearers  as  belong- 
ing to  the  humbler  classes.  Girls  from  the  provinces, 
with  their  neat  white  muslin  caps,  several  ladies,  and 
three  or  four  gentlemen,  made  up  the  audience,  with 
the  single  exception  of  the  stranger,  whose  entrance 
caused  no  little  observation.  The  clergyman  was  a 
pleasant-looking  gentleman  in  middle  life,  who  noticed 
my  straight  vest,  (which  seems  to  confuse  so  many  per- 
sons,) and  evidently  took  me  for  one  of  his  own  high 
calling,  and  at  one  time  I  thought  he  was  on  the  point 


%76  HOME     LETTERS. 

of  beckoning  me  to  come  into  the  pulpit,  lie  evidently 
thought  that  no  stranger,  except  he  was  a  clergyman, 
would  have  found  them  in  that  out-of-the-way  place  of 
worship.     The  preacher  was  dressed  in  a  black  gown, 
seemed  all  through  the   service   to   be  very  much  in 
earnest,  and  I  thought  felt  the  importance  of  his  mission. 
I  hope  he  is  as  evangelical,  as  I  believe  him  to  be  sincere. 
"When  I  entered  the  room,  he  was  making  the  opening 
prayer  ;  then  followed  singing  and  reading  of  passages 
of  Scripture;  the  sermon,  singing,  prayer  and  benedic- 
tion was  almost  in  our  own  regular  order.     You  will 
not  be  surprised  when  I  tell  you  that  I  enjoyed  these 
services  very  much,  for  I  thought  of  the  Master's  prom- 
ise, "  that  where  two  or  three  are  gathered  together  in 
my  name,  there  I  will  be  in  the  midst  of  them,  to  bless 
them."     I  could  not  understand  a  connected  sentence 
of  all  that  I  heard,  but  when  the  congregation  com- 
menced to  sing  the  old  familiar  tunes,  I  could  not  con- 
trol my  feelings,  or  rather   I  should  say,  the  tender 
associations  of  home  worship  came  so  vividly  to  mind, 
that  my  heart  overflowed  in   tears,  in  spite  of  every 
effort  to  restrain  them.     I  noticed  that  every  one  who 
came   in   after   me,   before  being   seated,  stood  for  a 
moment  or  two,  and  bowed  the  head  in  prayer  ;  and 
that  all,  even  the  children,  had  their  hymn  books,  with 
the  words  set  to  music,  and  their  Bibles,  from  which 
they  followed  their  pastor  as  he  read  from  the  Scrip- 
tures.  I  have  come  from  this  little  congregation  feeling 
that  my  Sunday  in  Dijon  will  long  be  remembered  with 
pleasure. 

I  have  been  down  to  make  inquiry  about  afternoon 

service,  at  M 's  request,  who  would  like  to  worship 

with  this  small  band  of  French  Christians,  as  she  is 
feeling  much  better  this  afternoon  ;  but  I  have  received 
this  reply,  "  only  one  service  on  Sundays."     I  ought  to 


/-'//  0  M     A  BROA  />. 

sayfor  Dijon,  thai  it  possesses  an  Episcopal. church  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  English  residents  and  visit- 
ors :  I'm  as  the  church  service  is  Buch  a  wearisome  one 
tome,  and  so  far  as  1  have  had  the  opportunity  of  judg- 
ing, the  preaching  on  the  continent  is  intellectually  bo 
inferior,  thai  I  do  qo1  go  to  Episcopal  worship  when  I 
can  find  any  ether  Protestant  service. 

I  walked  around  a  few  squares  on  my  return  to  the 
hotel,  and  in  passing  along  found  myself  opposite  a 
large  church,  and  by  the  side  of  it  the  hous  in  which 
Bossuel  was  born.  It  is  called  "  Bossuel  Maison,"  and 
is  a  two-story  brick  house,  with  dormer  windows,  and 
would  be  of  little  account  except  for  it-  being  the  place 
where  this  celebrated  preacher — one  of  the  mosl  elo- 
quent of  divines — was  cradled  and  lived  during  the 
years  of  his  childhood:  it  is  an  honor  to  have  given 

■ 

birth  to  such  a  man,  of  which  any  city  might  be 
justly  proud. 

It    is    now    eight    o'clock,   and    table-d'hdte    is  just 

through.     M enjoyed   her  meal   very  much,   and 

.-ay- to  me,  "tell  them  we  had  raspberries  for  dessert 
on  the  16th  of  September."  I  heard  the  waiter  say 
they  came  from  Bern.  It  takes  jusl  two  hours  to  gel 
through  with  the  courses  at  dinner  at  the  Hotel  de 
Jura,  all  for  only  four  francs,  and  with  a-  much  wine  as 
vou  wish  to  drink  included.  I  Bawsome  persons  order 
and  drink  their  second  bottle;  of  course  it   was   the 

cheap  wine  of  the  country.    M i-  much  better,  and 

we  expeel  to  -tart  for  Paris  in  the  morning.      It  ta 
-even  hour-  by  the  fast  train  to  make  the  journey  :  the 
-low  train  occupies  eleven  horn's;  I  have  convinced  her 
that    the  leasl   time  on  the  road  the  better,    notwith- 
atanding  her  dread  of  rapid  railroad  speed. 


278  HOME     LETTERS. 

Tuesday  morning,  September  17.  We  are  back  again 
in  Paris,  at  the  Hotel  De  L'athenee  and  consider  our- 
selves fortunate  in  having  secured  rooms  in  our  old 
quarters,  under  the  protection  of  Monsieur  Pollonais. 
We  cannot  say  however  that  we  are  entirely  at  home, 
as  we  feel  the  want  of  our  former  pleasant  associates, 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  D and  their  agreeable  friends  the 

K ;s.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  Little,  of  Philadelphia,  whose 

acquaintance  we  made  when  here  before,  have  returned 
home ;  (you  will  remember  that  Dr.  Peterson,  who  is 

a  brother  of  Mrs.  L ,  married  the  only  daughter  of 

Judge  Bouvier,)  we  were  greatly  pleased  with  her,  she 
is  a  very  sprightly  and  intelligent  lady,  remarkable  for 
her  cheerful  and  happy  disposition. 

I  must  hurry  so  as  to  be  able  to  mail  my  letter  this 
morning,  only  time  to  say  "  good-bye,"  with  much  love 
to  all  our  friends. 

J.  A. 


FB  0  M     A  B  R  0  A  D. 


Maih d  at  London, 
September 

Since  our  arrival    id   Paris,  on  Monday,  September 

16th,  we  have  been  aa  bus}  as  two  bees,  (as  J has 

already  informed  you  in  his  journal  mailed  on  that 
day,)  and  neither  of  as  have  had  a  moment's  time  to 
write  a  line  aboul  our  daily  employments;  and  now 
that  I  have  a  half  hour  at  my  disposal,  I  find  it  wrv 
difficult  to  recall  events,  they  have  been  so  crowded  one 
upon  another. 

An  incident  of  our  journey  t<>  Paris  from  Neuchatel 
I  desire  to  mention,  not  because  it  was  pleasant,  but  in 
acknowledgment  of  the  kindness  of  an  unknown  gen- 
tleman  (a  physician  probably)  who  ^relieved  me  from 
intense  pain,  by  kindly  administering  a  dose  <>t'  liquid 
medicine,  I  know  not  what;  hut  under  the  circum- 
stances I  would  have  swallowed  arsenic  or  any  other 
poison.  At  the  early  hour  (six  o'clock)  when  we  left 
Neuchatel  the  sun  was  intensely  hot,  two  hours  later 
the  weather  changed,  and  tin'  air  became  quite  cool  in 
the  car-,  this  produced  a  click  ,.t'  perspiration  and 
acute  suffering  succeeded.  I  felt  as  it' I  should  taint  in 
an  instant  more  when  this  remedy  relieved  me,  thanks 
to  his  sympathetic  kindness  that  L  shall  ever  remember 
gratefully. 

On  Tuesday  morning  I  had  a  long  and  troublesome 

search  for  Madame  E ,  as  Mr-.  D gave  me  the 

wrong  address  by  mistake,  she  was  waiting  my 
pleasure  and  had  nearly  completed  all  that  I  gave 
her  to  do;  what  it  may  be  you  shall  see  at  some  future 
time.     The  next  want  to  Bupply  was  a   bonnet,  and 


280  HOME     LETTERS. 

three  hours'  unremitting  search  could  not  secure  it, 
they  were  either  too  high  in  price,  or  too  flaunting  in 
ribbons  and  lace.  Another  hour's  stroll  along  the 
Boulevards  looking  in  at  the  shop  windows  brought 
us  out  at  five  o'clock  to  the  Passage  Joivffroy,  and  the 
Cafe  de  Paris,  where  we  enjoyed  a  delicious  dinner  ; 
and  when  we  were  about  half  through,  what  was  our 
surprise  to  hear  some  one  call,  "  Judge,  and  Mrs.  Alli- 
son ;"  and  who  should  it  be  but  Mary  and  Mr.  B ; 

Alary  is  quite  well  and  tells  me  she  is  very  happy.  I 
said  that  we  were  lamenting  the  absence  of  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  D from  our  table,  but  there  was  another  per- 
son we  were  sorry  not  to  find  at  his  accustomed  place, 
our  little  gargon,  who  was  always  so  prompt  and  atten- 
tive in  supplying  our  wants.  He  learned  to  know  just 
what  part  of  the  poulet  Madame  most  preferred,  and 
Monsieur  was  sure  to  get  a  delicate  slice  of  saumon  on 
all  occasions.  Poor  little  fellow,  we  watched  at  the 
open  door,  hoping  to  see  his  face ;  but  were  disappointed, 
and  the  only  response  we  could  get  in  reply  to  our  in- 
quiry was  that  "  he  was  away."  This  will  be  a  grief  to 
"-poor  old  Dock"  when  he  gets  back  to  Paris,  and  he 
will  feel  as  we  do  that  the  Cafe  de  Paris  has  lost  one 
of  its  principal  attractions.  And  our  "  Suzan  "  is  gone 
too,  who  will  supply  fragrant  blossoms  for  the  counsel- 
lor's button  hole  ? 

Wednesday.  Sitting  at  an  early  hour  beside  an  open 
window  enjoying  our  breakfast,  we  counted  no  less 
than  five  carriages  that  drove  up  to  the  hotel  door, 
whose  occupants  asking  for  admittance  were  refused. 
The  house  is  crowded  to  repletion,  and  we  are  away  up 
on  "  'le  quatrieme  etage,"  as  we  could  not  get  possession 
of  our  old  room,  it  was  occupied  when  we  returned. 
Another  half  day's  search  for  a  bonnet  was  rewarded 


FR  0  U     A  1!  B  OAD.  281 

by  the  purchase  of  an  article  thai  La  do1  entitled  to 
such  an  appellation,  for  it  is  only  a  patch  of  velvet  the 
size  of  my  hand,  with  a  rose  bud  on  one  Bide,  another 
;it  the  chin,  and  a  frill  of  lace  behind  ;  andyel  the  "  Mar- 
chande s  de  modes "  thoughl  it  very  full.  A  cluster  of 
Btrawberriea  with  a  metre  of  lace  and  ribbon  to  confine 
them  under  the  chin,  or  a  bunch  of  spring  daisies,  is 
considered  here  quite  enough  to  ornamenl  the  frizzled 
arrangement  of  the  hair.  That  may  be  so  when  it 
graces  a  pretty  face,  bu1  the  homely  ones  need  some- 
thing more  to  soften  and  conceal  their  unattractive- 
aess.  We  hunted  up  a  tolerably  good  dinner,  down 
Dear  the  "Bon  Marche*,"  Rue  de Bac,  where  most  of  our 
shopping  lias  been  clone. 

Thursday,  September  19.  This  day  was  spent  very 
much  as  the  two  preceding  ones  were ;  all  the  hours  of 
the  morning  and  part  of  the  evening  were  passed  pleas- 
antly in  overlooking  the  shop  windows.  There  is  no 
sameness,  do  repetition,  and  the  diversity  is  marvellous 
and  endless;  something  new  meets  you  at  every  turn. 
Your  brain  aches  with  excitement  and  exhaustion;  yet 
you  cannot  feel  content  to  pass  one  window  by — it  may 
contain  some  novelty  that  you  have  uot  seeD,  or  may 
never  see  again.  Every  grocer's,  fruiterer's,  dry  goods' 
and  confectioner's  window  is  an  illustration  of  exquisite 
taste,  beauty,  ueatness  and  artistic  display.  The  splen- 
dor and  brilliancy  of  the  precious  stones,  the  incon- 
ceivable variety  and  unusual  forms  in  which  they  are 
set  to  show  them  off  to  the  greatesl  possible  advantag  . 
is  something  yon  could  not  credit  without  having  seen. 
Diamonds  arc  as  plenty  as  peas  in  May.  The  com- 
monest occupations  arc  made  less  repulsive  in  V\w> 
than  in  any  other  country:  however  humble  the  de- 
partment oi  business,  its  insignia  are  bo  ordered  as  to 

19  " 


282  HOME     LETTERS. 

show  and  satisfy  the  national  instinct  for  the  beautiful, 
even  the  butcher's  stalls  are  ornamented  with  fragrant 
flowers,  and  the  summer  fruits  exposed  for  sale  along 
the  streets  are  so  arranged  as  to  present  the  most 
luscious  display,  garnished  as  they  are  with  fresh 
flowers  and  delicate  fern  leaves ;  they  offer  too  tempt- 
ing a  decoy  to  be  passed  aside  willingly ;  by  this  feli- 
citous stroke  of  artifice  and  alluring  taste  we  have 
more  than  once  been  enticed  out  of  our  small  change. 
The  gas  in  Paris  I  have  thought  is  double  refined,  and 
is  used  in  double  quantities  ;  the  night  is  more  bril- 
liant than  the  day ;  for  the  light  penetrates  every  nook 
and  cranny  with  its  dazzling  glare.  The  voitures  and 
cabs  after  dusk  must  carry  lanterns ;  and  as  their  num- 
ber is  legion,  this  makes  four  continuous  lines  of 
moving  light  in  the  centre  of  each  Boulevard,  two 
lines  passing  each  way.  Add  to  these  again  the  re- 
flected light  from  a  hundred  street  lamps  at  the  cor- 
ners, at  the  stands  for  the  sale  of  bon-bons  and  papers, 
the  festoons,  the  arches,  the  wreaths,  and  stars  of  light 
that  ornament  and  emblazon  the  fronts  of  public  build- 
ings and  places  of  amusement ;  and  then  if  possible 
take  in  the  gorgeous,  dazzling  brilliancy  of  the  whole, 
and  you  can  form  some  idea  perhaps  what  Paris  is  by 
gas  light. 

Friday  morning,  September  20.  The  morning  hours 
of  this  day  were  passed  at  Versailles,  twelve  miles  out- 
side of  the  city,  which  we  reached  by  rail,  the  cars 
passing  out  every  half  hour.  The  first  part  of  the  ride 
was  uninteresting  until  we  crossed  the  Seine,  where 
the  river,  distant  views  of  the  city  and  the  wooded 
hills  and  vineyards  were  picturesque;  the  vines  are  all 
tied  to  sticks,  and  are  not  permitted  to  grow  more  than 
two  or  three  feet  high.     We  passed  the  park  of  St. 


FR  0  M     .1  i:  110  AD. 

Cloud,  Imh  uol  Dear  enough  to  gel  a  glimpse  of  the 
palace,  and  through  Sevres,  where  the  delicate  porcelain 
ware  is  manufactured.  The  town  of  Versailles  i-  a  dull 
old  place,  with  only  a  few  fine  buildings,  dating  hack 
to  th.'  time  of  Li  mis  XIV.,  win  mi  the  city  was  in  its  full 
splendor,  and  some  avenues  of  uoble  foresl  trees.  But 
what  shall  [  say,  or  rather  what  can  [tell  you  about 
the  paha-e  that  would  give  you  any  corred  idea  of 
either  its  extenl  or  grandeur!  lean  only  say  thai  we 
were  three  hours  in  the  building,  walking  ail  the  time 
through  gallery  after  gallery,  filled  with  paintings,  thai 
it'  placed  in  line  would  Btretch  oul  to  a  distance  of 
twelve  miles.  All  the  battle  Bcenes,  "from  C  to 
the  war  of  Algeria,"  are  here  portrayed  upon  canvass ; 
the  historical  events  of  every  reign ;  battles  upon  land 
and  on  the  sea ;  all  the  victories  of  the  Republic  ;  all  the 
campaigns  of  Napoleon ;  the  revolution  of  L830  ;  indeed, 
every  greal  evenl  of  French  history.  We  observed 
large  numbers  of  soldiers  viewing  with  exultant  pride 
the  history  of  their  glory,  and  triumphs:  thus  has  the 
love  of  war  been  cultivated  among  the  French  people 
until  it  has  qow  become  the  leading  passion  of  their  liv  -. 
There  were  suits  of  apartments,  one  beyond  another, 
that  seemed  numberless;  vestibules  and  galleries  for 
statuary  and  bronzes,  ball-rooms,  assembly-rooms, coun- 
cil chambers,  theatre  and  chapel,  and  many,  many 
beside-.  I  know  you  will  be  more  interested  in  recall- 
ing the  fact  thai  this  palace  was  usually  the  home  ol 
Marie  Antoinette,  until  the  fearful  scenes  of  October, 
1789,  when  the  king  and  his  household  were  removed 
by  tone  to  Paris;  after  this  the  furniture  was  thrown 
out  of  the  windows,  ami  burnt  or  stolen,  and  the  build- 
ing partly  deserted.  Napoleon  I.  scarcely  did  more 
than  keep  it  in  repair,  and  it  remained  unoccupied 
until  Louis  Philippe  had  the  courage  to  undertake  the 


SS4  HOME     LETTERS. 

formidable  task  of  repairing  and  restoring  the  palace  to 
its  former  grandeur,  and  making  it  what  it  is  now,  a 
museum  for  works  of  art,  illustrative  of  the  history  of 
France.  He  spent  over  $900,000  upon  it,  and  what  the 
present  Emperor  may  have  added  to  that  sum,  to  glorify 
and  perpetuate  his  own  name,  we  have  no  means  of 
knowing. 

The  grounds  and  gardens  enclosed  and  connected 
with  this  palace  must  contain  hundreds  and  hundreds 
of  acres,  all  laid  out  in  the  most  artistic  style ;  but  for 
me  to  attempt  to  describe  anything  minutely  would  be 
useless  and  unsatisfactory,  as  we  saw  only  a  very  small 
part  of  the  whole,  and  even  that  in  a  hurried  way. 
Days  and  weeks  would  be  requisite  to  study  and  under- 
stand all  the  beautiful  works  of  art  that  are  scattered, 
in  such  lavish  profusion,  along  the  avenues  and  walks. 
The  eye  is  perfectly  bewildered  by  the  countless  groups 
of  statuary,  vases,  figures  in  bronze  and  marble,  foun- 
tains and  flowers  of  every  hue  and  variety,  arranged 
with  consummate  skill  and  discriminating  taste  in 
regard  to  contrasted  coloring,  no  conflicting  shades 
being  placed  beside  each  other.  The  effect,  standing  at 
a  distance,  is  very  beautiful ;  like  bands  or  circles  of 
variegated  ribbon,  the  colors  blending  and  harmonizing 
so  charmingly  one  with  the'  other.  The  garden  front  of 
the  palace  is  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  and  has 
"  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  windows  on  each  floor ; 
the  fagade  is  decorated  with  Ionic  pilasters,  and  multi- 
tudes of  allegorical  statues  of  the  months,  the  seasons, 
and  of  the  arts."  A  broad  flight  of  steps  leads  down  to 
the  gardens  commanding  a  lovely  view  over  them 
and  the  grounds  beyond,  and  directly  opposite  the  cen- 
tre of  the  palace,  extends  a  wide  piece  of  grass,  close 
shorn  and  beautifully  green,  and  beyond  this  again,  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  look,  there  is  a  wide  canal  nearly  a 


/  R  0  M     ABROAD. 

mile  long,  with  two  others  branching  off  al  right 
angles,  the  whole  in  the  form  of  a  cross.  <)n  either 
side  of  t  be  long  grass-plal  are  groves  planted  with  I  re<  -. 
ami  laid  out  with  perfecl  symmetry,  the  paths  and  ave- 
nues being  in  straight  lines,  skilfully  contrived  ><»  ;i-  to 
afford  vistas  and  points  <>f  view.  In  thegroves  are  in- 
numerable statues,  fountains,  vases  and  rock-work;  and 
one  could  wander  aboul  for  hours  and  days  along  the 
shady  walks,  and  still  find  new  objects  to  Interesi  and 
admire.     In  every  piece  of  water  there  are  fountain-. 

ami  WiTV  statue  and  urn  is  adapted  to  the  display 
of  water-works.  They  play  on  fixed  days  only,  the 
smaller  fountain-  every  second  Sunday  in  the  month 
during  the  summer :  hut  the  -"rand  fountain-,  including 
the  "  Basin  of  NTeptune,"  which  i>  the  grandesl  of  all, 
only  once  or  twice  a  year  ;  and  then  it  i>  a  great  fete  day, 
and  merry  crowds  hasten  to  pass  all  the  day  within  the 
gardens,  or  in  wandering  aboul  the  palace.  The  cost 
of  this  display  is  enormous.  I  think  I  heard  it  stated 
at  thirty  or  forty  thousand  francs;  not  less  than  that  I 
am  quite  sure.     In  a  grove  called  "Apollo's   Baths," 

there  was  a  group  of  statuary  that  charmed  both  J 

and  myself,  more  than  any  other  that  we  had  the 
opportunity  of  examining.  Under  an  artificial  rock 
hollowed  out  to  form  a  grotto,  representing  the  en- 
trance of  the  palace  of  the  goddess  of  the  sea,  Apollo, 
after  having  conducted  the  coursers  of  the  sun  all  day. 
comes  in  the  evening  to  rest  from  his  toils.  Three 
groups  adorn  the  grotto ;  the  first  placed  between  the 
others,  consists  of  seven  figures,  representing  Apollo 
surrounded  and  attended  by  six  Thetis  nymphs :  two  of 
whom  are  preparing  to  wash  and  wipe  hi-  feet,  while 
a  third  pours  odors  on  bis  hands.  Thegraceand  trans- 
parency of  the  draperies  with  which  the  nymphs  are 
clad  is  something  marvellous  to  behold.     The  nymphs 


& 


2SG  HOME     LETTERS. 

placed  behind  Apollo  adjust  his  hair ;  two  are  holding 
vases  containing  perfumes,  while  the  third  pours  the 
perfumed  liquid  on  his  head.  The  garments  are  as 
graceful  as  those  of  their  sisters.  The  groups  placed 
on  each  side  represent  the  coursers  of  the  sun  led  to 
drink  by  Tritons. 

On  our  return  to  the  city  and  the  L'athe'ne'e,  we  passed 
through  the  "  Place  de  la  Concorde,"  once  called  "  Place 
de  la  Revolution,"  where  the  lovely  Marie  Antionette 
jDerished  by  the  guillotine ;  where  Louis  XVI.,  Madame 
Elizabeth  and  many  of  the  nobles  of  France  met  the 
cruel  fate  of  the  hapless  queen.  The  memory  of  these 
brutal  scenes,  and  unpitying  days  dimmed  the  lustre 
and  magnificence  of  the  view,  yet  I  am  sure  there  are 
not  many  that  can  compare  or  contrast  favorably  with 
it.  On  every  side  grand  monuments  met  the  eye :  the 
Palace  of  the  Tuileries,  to  the  east,  rising  above  the 
beautiful  gardens ;  on  the  west  the  Elysian  Fields,  and 
beyond  them,  a  mile  away,  the  colossal  outlines  of  the 
Triumphal  Arch  towering  above  all  surrounding  ob- 
jects. On  the  north,  terminating  the  Rue  Royale, 
stands  the  exquisite  church  of  La  Madeleine,  while 
across  the  Seine  the  Legislative  Palace  is  visible.  In 
the  centre  of  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  is  placed  the 
obelisk  of  Luxor,  presented  to  the  French  government 
by  Mohammed  Ali,  Pasha  of  Egypt.  It  is  of  red 
granite,  and  "  weighs  500,000  pounds,  is  72  feet  high, 
7  feet  G  inches  wide  at  the  base,  and  5  feet  4  inches  at 
the  top.  It  took  three  years  to  transport  it  from 
Thebes,  where  it  stood  before  the  Temple,  and  where  it 
was  erected  fifteen  hundred  and  fifty  years  before  the 
birth  of  our  Saviour,  by  the  great  Sesostris."  Every 
side  is  covered  with  hieroglyphics.  At  intervals  around 
the  square  are  eight  immense  statues  representing  the 
principal  cities  of  France.     On  either  side  of  the  obelisk, 


V 


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/••/.'  0  M     A  /:  11  <>  .1  D. 


stand   two  fountains,  dedicated  to  the  ad   river 

navigation,  and  they  are  of  vasl  circumference:  "the 
basins  fifty  feel  in  diameter."  ( Solossal  figures  Burround 
the  base,  tritons  and  nereids,  who  hold  large  dolphii 
\'v>  >m  which  gush  b1  reams  of  water,  rising  to  a  consider- 
ahle  elevation  and  then  falling  in  feathery  Bpray  into 
the  basins  below. 

M.  C.   A. 


ogg  HOME     LETTERS. 


Monday,  September  S3. 

The  clock  on  the  mantel  has  just  struck  five.     I  am 

up  early  to  add  something  to  M 's  journal  letter, 

writing  at  the  table  in  our  room,  Hotel  De  L'athenee  ; 
still  in  Paris,  where  we  linger,  regreting  the  hour  is 
so  near  at  hand,  that  will  oblige  us  to  take  our  depart- 
ure from  this  most  attractive  city,  leaving  unseen  so 

many  objects  of  interest  and  of  beauty.     As  M has 

told  you,  this  has  been  a  busy  week,  in  getting  ready 
for  our  journey,  first  to  England  and  then  home.  The 
detention  at  Dijon  lost  us  two  days,  which  were  pre- 
cious ones  to  us,  and  instead  of  reaching  Paris  on  the 
evening  of  Saturday  the  14th,  we  did  not  get  here 
until  the  evening  of  Monday  the  16th,  this,  with  the 
rest  needed  on  Tuesday,  shortened  our  time  for  sight 
seeing.  We  ought  to  be  in  Liverpool  by  Saturday 
week,  as  the  ship  sails  on  the  following  Tuesday,  one 
day  over  at  Liverpool  is  little  enough  to  see  our 
baggage  placed  on  the  vessel,  and  the  necessary  prepa- 
rations made  for  the  voyage  home. 

At  noon  to-day  we  expect  to  start  for  London  via 
Boulogne.  We  came  here  by  way  of  Calais,  and  I  am 
induced  to  change  our  route  for  several  reasons.  First, 
we  shall  see  a  new  part  of  France,  new  to  us  at  least. 
Second,  the  expense  is  only  about  one-half,  thirty-five 
against  seventy-four  francs,  simply  because  so  much  of 
the  distance  is  made  by  water.  The  third  reason  is, 
the  hour  of  departure  is  at  noon,  and  very  conveni- 
ent— much  more  comfortable  than  five  in  the  morning. 

And  now  to  our  journal.    I  take  up  the  thread  of 
narrative  I  believe  on  Thursday.     The  entire  morning 


PS  0  M     A  B  8  o  a  D. 

until  one  o'clock  was  occupied  by  both    M and 

myself  in  arranging  and  preparing  for  packing.  I 
boughl  ;i  large  French  trunk  in  which  I  stowed  away 
many  of  our  purchases,  but  we  had  to  leave  our  work 
in  pari  unfinished;  we  then  called  a  cab  and  drove  to 
several  places  to  pay  unsettled  bills.  <  >n  our  route  we 
found  ourselves  in  the  neighborhood  of  the   Morgue, 

which  M had  not  seen;  bere  we  tarried  for  a  short 

time,  to  enable  ber  to  look  in  upon  this  mosl  popular 
resort,  of  the  gay  citizen  of  Paris;  so  popular  thai  it  is 
seldom  without  its  occupants.  Visitors  are  admitted 
at  all  hours  to  the  gallery  which  extends  the  entire 
length  of  the  building,  and  faces  the  row  of  inclined 
tables  on  which  the  bodies  are  placed  for  recognition. 
We  saw  bul  a  single  tenant  of  this  bouse  of  the  dead; 
he  appeared  to  be  about  thirty  years  of  age  and  in  the 
darkness  of  the  previous  night  had  sought  oblivion  in 
the  waters  of  the  Seine;  Buch  is  the  philosophy  and 
irreligion  of  these  gay  and  apparently  happy  people. 
Paris,  as  "  Miss  Marie"'  at  the  desk  in  the  coffee-room, 
said  to  me.  when  returning  one  morning  to  her  task, 
sick  and  scarce  able  to  perform  her  duty, "  Paris  is  a 
pleasant  city  for  the  rich,  but  terrible  for  the  poor;" 
adding  the  usual  French  shrug  and  gesture,  which 
implied,  "Oh  I  am  poor,  miserably  poor,  and  I  am 
sad,  very  sad  indeed."  From  the  Morgue  we  went  to 
the  Luxembourg,  and  walked  through  the  gardens  of 
the  palace,  these  gardens,  though  small  compared 
with  Versailles,  are  very  beautifully  laid  out,  and 
are  adorned  with  statuary  and  flowers:  Borne  of  th< 
works  of  art  are  of  a  high  order  of  merit:  one  group 
especially  at  the  head  of  the  principal  fountain  was,  I 
thought,  equal  to  any  we  saw  at  Versailles.  Among 
many  others  are  the  statues  of  Marie  A''  Medicis  and 
Petrareh's  Laura.     On  one  side  is  the  botanical  garden 


390  HOME     LETTERS. 

of  the  school  of  medicine,  and  on  the  other  the  nursery 
garden.  This  we  found  occupied  by  a  large  number 
of  elderly  people,  invalids  and  children,  who  seek  this 
delightful  spot  for  play,  and  to  inhale  the  perfume  of 
the  flowers  and  foliage,  always  fresh  from  the  spray  of 
the  fountains,  which  were  placed  here  originally  for 
the  enjoyment  of  the  pampered  few,  but  are  now 
thrown  open  for  the  benefit  of  the  people.  The  city 
and  its  environs  abound  in  pleasure  grounds  ;  where  a 
most  ample  provision  is  made  for  the  comfort  and 
health  of  the  poor,  and  when  the  weather  is  pleasant 
these  gardens  are  crowded  with  children ;  groups  of 
poor  women  also  resort  here  to  sew  and  enjoy  their 
chit-chat ;  and  thus  the  social  instincts  and  habits  of 
the  uneducated  classes  are  cultivated  and  improved. 
No  city  that  we  have  visited,  and  perhaps  no  city  in 
the  world,  can  compare  with  Paris  in  the  provision  it 
has  made  in  this  respect  for  the  comfort  and  health  of 
the  mass  of  the  population.  For  beauty,  cleanliness, 
good  order  and  good  government,  Paris  stands  alone. 
I  have  not  heard  an  angry  word,  and  have  seen  but 
one  intoxicated  man,  during  all  my  stay  in  this  city. 
The  government  may  be  arbitrary,  but  it  accomplishes 
its  purpose,  it  governs,  and  in  such  a  way  that  you 
scarce  see  anything  of  its  machinery  except  in  the 
quiet  and  well-dressed  police  officer,  that  you  notice 

everywhere.     After  M and  I  had  seen  the  garden, 

we  entered  the  museum ;  it  contains  mostly  the 
pictures  of  living  artists,  these  pictures  remain  here 
for  ten  years,  or  until  the  death  of  the  artist,  when 
they  are  removed  to  the  Louvre.  There  are  many  very 
fine  paintings  in  this  collection,  but  more  I  think  than 
will  ever  find  their  wajr  into  the  Louvre.  The 
galleries  were  founded  originally  by  Marie  de  Medicis, 
who  indeed  built  the  place,  and  resided  in  it  for  many 


/•A'  0  M      ABROAD.  ;.'// 

years.  The  senate  of  France  uow  -it  here,  and  have 
met  iii  this  huilding  since  L852.  After  passing  through 
tli-'  museum,  we  found  thai  by  accidenl  we  luckily 
happened  upon  the  day  thai  the  palace  is  opened  to 
the  public;  we  made  our  way  round  to  the  main 
entrance,  through  the  inner  courl  ;  and,  ascending  a 
long  flight  of  stone  steps,  we  found  ourselves  a1  tin- 
door  which  ushered  us  into  an  ante-room  where  a 
number  of  persons  were  in  waiting.  The  plan  was  to 
allow  about  twenty-five  or  thirty  visitors  to  gather 
and  then  a  conductor  taking  them  in  charge,  passed 
them  through  the  building,  explaining  everything, 
and  giving  time  everywhere  for  full  observation.  This 
prevented  confusion  from  overcrowding,  and  to  those 
who  could  understand  what  he  said,  was  a  very 
■  Lsfactory  arrangement.  We  could  see,  if  no1  under- 
stand all  that  was  said:  and  thus  we  made  the  entire 
circuit  of  all  the  room-  that  arc  open  to  the  public. 
The  reception  rooms  of  the  Emperor,  the  ante-room  of 
the  senate,  the  senate  chamber,  and  chapel,  were  in 
turn  shown  to  us;  a-  also  the  room  of  the  throne, 
whi<h  is  the  largesl  and  finest  of  them  all  :  which 
contain-  tin- massive  gilt  throne  of  tin-  first  rTapoleon 
placed  in  the  centre  of  the  apartment,  Bhowing  that 
it  was  not  kept  as  a  more  plaything,  for  it  hears 
the  marks  of  frequent  use.  This  room  is  richly 
covered  with  ornamental  mouldings;  ami  the  paintings 
upon  its  walls  represent  scenes  in  the  life  o\'  Napole'on 
I.  The  ceiling  represents  universal  suffrage;  ami  in 
the  central  part  ^\'  it  there  is  a  large  urn  containing  the 
Beven  millions  five  hundred  thousand  vote-  given  for 
the  present  Emperor,  when  he  submitted  his  claim  for 
the  imperial  throne  to  the  people  of  France.  There  is 
a  gallery  which  contains  row-  of  marble  busts  f\  great 
men  of  rhe  empire:  also,  the  rooms  (three  in  number) 


ogo  HOME     LETTERS. 

of  Marie   cle  Medicis,   not   large,   but   the   walls   are 
covered  with  fine  paintings,  some  of  which  are  said  to 
be  by  Rubens.     The  furniture  in  one  of  the  rooms  is 
the  same  which  was  used  by  the  Queen,  containing  a 
table,  with  a  heavy   velvet   cover,   candelebras   cups, 
pitchers,  etc.,  and  this  suit  of  apartments  opens  directly 
out  upon  the  gardens,   and   are  consecpuently   on  the 
lower  floor  of  the  palace.     At  our  departure  the  Cice- 
rone placed  himself  in  the  doorway,  and  extended  his 
hand,  expecting  every  one  to  deposit  something  in  it. 
I  noticed  that  copper  was  more  abundant  than  silver, 
so  I  made  him  happy  when  I  placed  a  franc  upon  the 
black   pile.     He   said,   "  Merci,   Monsieur  je   vous   re 
merci."     I  said  "  Amerique."     He  shook  his  head  em- 
phatically and  replied,  "  Ah,  ah,"  as  if  that  made  it 
quite  plain  to  him,  and  with  a  graceful  salutation  he 
passed  us  out  of  the  building.     We  then  went  over  to 
the  Palais  Royal,  now  occupied  in  part  as  the  residence 
of  the  Prince  Napoleon — and  in  part  with  restaurants. 
The  lower  stories  are  given  up  entirely  to  shops,  which 
are  very  brilliant,  and  by  gas-light  make  a  glittering 
show  with  their  display  of  sham   and   real  jewelry. 
The  cafe  Jouffroy  was  far  away,  which  compelled  us  to 
dine  in  one  of  the  restaurants  of  the  Palace,  for  which 
we  paid  four  francs ;  but  it  was  a  sad  contrast  to  the 
cafe  Jouffroy  dinners ;  it  was  served  up  carelessly,  half 
warm,   and   very   indifferently   cooked.     I   am   really 
afraid  that  this  cafe  has  somewhat  spoiled  us ;  we  have 
become  captious,  and  compare  all  our  meals  now  with 
the  much  better  ones  in  the  Passage  Jouffroy.     As  wTe 
partook  of  our  meal,  we  sat  at  an  open  window  and 
looked  out  upon  a  very  gay  scene ;  the  court  yard  be- 
low contained  several  thousand  persons,  attracted  by 
the  music  of  an  excellent  band,  which  plays  twice  a 
week,  in  this  and  the  other  gardens  of  the  city,  from 


/•  /;  o  \t    .1  B  i;  0  a  /> . 

tive  to  six  o'clock.     It   is  astonishing  how  fond  th< 
people  are  of  music;  the  crowd  Bcarcely  diminished  for 

the  hour;  and  as  it  occupied  just  al t   thai   time  to 

dispose  of  our  meal,  we  heard  tin'  sweet  strains  :ill  the 
while;  wo  thought  the  performance  on  tin-  French  horn 
was  truly  wonderful.  Two  hours  we  Btrolled  along, 
looking  at  the  Bhop  windows;  and  I    really  think   it' 

M 's  strength    could  have   endured    it    Bhe   would 

have  kept  on  until  daylight  ;  as  it  was,  Bhe  thought 
I  was  a  little  impatient,  and  I  must  confess  I  was  very 
tired.  These  pretty  things  of  Paris,  bo  beautiful  and 
varid,  Bhowing  bo  much  ingenuity  and  skill  as  well 

taste,   have   an    influence    over    M that    alm< 

amounts  to  infatuation. 

We  reached  home  about  nine  o'clock,  and  all  along 
the  boulevards  it  was  a  perfect  Maze  of  gas  and  bril- 
liancy, the  city  seems  to  wake  to  new  and  varied  life 
as  night  sets  in,  and  we  could  not  help  remarking, 
there  is  Burely  but  one  Paris.  In  some  of  the  cities  of 
Europe  the  close  of  day  brings  a  cessation  of  activity  ; 
business  ends,  windows  are  closed,  and  everything  out 
of  doors  looks  dark  and  gloomy;  but  Paris  in  her 
night  adornment  is  more  Hashing  and  1> right  than  in 
her  day  attire:  and  every  one  that  is  free  to  control 
his  or  her  movements,  hastens  to  the  boulevards 
and  cafe's,  to  the  theatre,  or  some  other  scene  of  amuse- 
ment or  gayety,  with  which  the  city  is  bo  amply  pro- 
vided, while  the  utmost  propriety  marks  the  conduct 
of  all.  Outwardly  it  is  the  best  behaved  of  all  pla< 
but  those  who  know  say,  that  inwardly  it  is  hollow 
and  rotten  to  the  core.  On  our  return  we  saw  the  first 
open  exhibition  of  authority  we  have  witnessed  sii 
we  have  been  here.  A  policeman  had  in  charge,  and 
was  taking,  I  suppose,  to  a  lock-up,  a  singular  little 
man,  who  did  not  appear    to  be   more  than  four  feel 


29Jf  HOME     LETTERS. 

high,  having  a  deformed  back  and  high  shoulders.  He 
kept  swinging  his  arms  violently  out  from  his  body, 
which  was  stout,  and  seemed  to  be  almost  as  broad 
across  the  shoulders  as  he  was  tall.  He  had  a  very 
coarse  voice,  and  evidently  was  of  a  savage  spirit, 
for  he  talked  loud  and  defiantly  at  the  tall  uniformed 
officer,  as  he  walked  beside  him  in  the  middle  of 
the  street.  He  would,  we  thought,  have  made  an 
admirable  subject  for  a  sketch  by  Dickens;  just 
such  a  figure  as  he  alone  could  delineate  upon 
paper,  as  distinctly  as  if  it  were  cut  in  marble.  It 
was  in  this  way  that  he  found  originals  for  many  of 
his  remarkable  personages  in  low  life  ;  and  I  have  no 
doubt  if  Dickens  had  met  the  group  he  would  have 
followed  them  and  seen  the  end  of  the  trouble  ;  and 
perhaps  would  have  given  to  it  the  immortality  with 
which  his  genius  only  could  have  invested  it. 

J.  A. 


/•'/;  0  M    A  BR  0  A  l> . 


Tuesday  evening^  nine  o'clock ,  September  '.",.  A  special 
inducemenl  has  detained  us  in  this  charming  city  an- 
other day;  nol  at  all  to  my  regret,  and  I  think  .1 

was  unite  as  willing  to  tarry  a  Little  Longer  too.  A 
dinner  at  the  "Grand"  commemorates  our  entrance 
int>>  Paris;  another  given  to  T.  Buchanan  Reed — by 
Mr.  James  Claghorn,  is  the  pleasanl  ending  of  :i  Long 
series  of  memorable  enjoyments  that  will  be  associated 
in  our  minds  with  this  incomparabh  ami  symmetrical 
city.  I  now  fully  understand  and  appreciate  tin'  ad- 
vice which  was  given  by  some  of  our  friend-.  (Georg 
Conarroe  among  the  number,)  when  they  said  "  do  aof 
go  to  Paris  first,  it  spoils  every  other  city  by  contrast," 
and  this  is  true,  for  in  visiting  other  places  the  mind 
naturally  reverts  to  Paris  as  the  ornate  model,  and 
all  others  seem  Less  attractive.  If  one  contemplated 
Living  wholly  for  this  world  and  its  Lower  interests  and 
enjoyments,  Paris  would  be  the  city  to  seled  as  a 
home;  offering  attractions  for  every  taste,  facilities  for 
every  pursuit,  congenial  society  for  every  order  of  in- 
tellect and  style  of  character. 

J 's  narrative  of  passing  events  closes  with  yester- 
day, Monday  morning.  Our  first  determination  was.  if 
possible,  to  get  a  sight  of  the  interior  of  the  palace  of 
the  Tuileries, — "the  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that 
all  the  tiles  (tuiles)  used  in  Paris  was  formerly  manu- 
factured on  its  site," — which  during  the  absence  of  the 
royal  family  is  open  to  the  public  at  fixed  times. 
We  entered  the  court  at  the  hour  named,  and  found 
a    crowd   already   gathered   and    waiting   in   line,   four 


296  HOME     LETTERS. 

abreast,  for  admittance.  No  one  was  allowed  to 
take  an  advanced  position,  but  must  fall  in  where 
they  entered,  so  we  were  quite  in  the  rear,  and  lost 
a  half  hour  making  such  slow  progress  up  to  the 
door  of  the  grand  vestibule.  One  or  two  adventu- 
rous persons,  anxious  to  make  time,  pushed  forward, 
but  the  argus  eyes  of  the  garde  caught  them  in  the 
act,  and  they  were  summarily  put  back,  whence  they 
started.  The  interior  of  the  palace  disappointed  us, 
the  gildings  looked  tarnished,  the  frescoes  dull,  the 
furniture  old,  and  the  tapestries  dingy ;  and  a  cloud  of 
dust  raised  by  the  shuffling  feet  of  the  multitude,  as  they 
passed  from  room  to  room,  made  everything  look  soiled 
and  dirty.  In  one  of  the  salons,  "  Salle  des  Marec- 
haux,"  the  civil  marriage  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress 
was  celebrated;  this  is  used  as  a  ball  room  on  State 
occasions ;  the  walls  (white  and  gold)  are  covered  with 
life-size  portraits  of  the  marshals  of  France  under 
Napoleon  I.,  the  names  of  his  great  battles,  and  with 
the  busts  of  celebrated  generals,  commanders  by  land 
and  sea.  Adjoining  this  room  is  the  "  Salle  da  Trone," 
the  Emperor's  formal  reception  room.  The  hangings 
are  of  dark  red  velvet  embroidered  with  gold ;  "  the 
carpet  of  Gobelin's  manufacture,  cost  $100,000."  A 
platform  elevated  about  three  feet  above  the  floor,  sup- 
ports a  throne,  over  which  draped  in  crimson  velvet, 
studded  with  gold  bees,  there  is  a  canopy  surmounted 
by  the  imperial  eagle  and  crown,  and  below  are  two 
massive  chairs,  bright  and  dazzling  in  gilded  ornamen- 
tation, the  arrogant  initial,  N".,  standing  out  in  bold 
relief  on  a  crimson  back  ground.  The  ■plebeian  crowd 
were  kept  at  a  respectful  distance  by  a  rail  at  the  foot 
of  the  exalted  eminence.  At  the  end  of  this  suit  of 
rooms  there  is  another  long  gallery,  which,  on  state 
occasions,  is  used  as  a  dining  hall ;  and  beyond  that 


r  U  OM     A  B  /.'  OAD. 

again,  are  those  of  all  others  we  would  most  have  pre- 
ferred to  see,  the  private  apartments  of  the  [mperial 
family.  After  Louis  Philippe's  expulsion  from  the 
throne,  i1  was  proposed  to  make  this  palace  an  asylum 
for  invalid  workmen,  bul  this  idea  was  abandoned; 
and  it  became  a  hospital  for  the  wounded  in  the  insur- 
rection of  the  same  year.  Since  Napoleon  III.  came 
into  power  ami  possession,  he  has  restored  it  to  its 
original  uses,  and  externally  he  has  carried  out  his 
uncle's  idea  of  connecting  the  palace  of  tin-  Louvre 
with  the  Tuileries,  at  a  cost  of  five  millii ins  i >f  dolla  -. 
You  can  form  some  idea  of  the  extenl  of  the  two 
palaces,  with  their  connecting  wings,  when  informed 
that  the  whole  covers  over  sixty  acres  of  ground. 

The  gardens  attached  to  the  palace  of  the  Tuileries 
are  artistically  laid  out  in  wide  avenues,  terraces,  prase 
plots  and  parterres  with  ivy  borders.  The  principal 
avenue  is  skirted  with  groves  of  splendid  chestnut,  elm, 
palm  and  lime  trees;  and  immediately  in  front  of  the 
palace  is  the  private  garden,  which  is  only  a©  3sible 
when  the  royal  family  may  be  absent  from  the  city. 
It  is  charmingly  adorned  with  shrubs  and  lovely 
parterres  of  flowers,  and  ornamented  on  every  side 
with  beautiful  groups  of  statuary  in  bronze  and  in 
marble,  many  of  them  are  conies  of  the  world-renowned 
creations  of  the  old  Bculptors.  As  we  were  passing 
through,  a  half  dozen  gardeners  were  trimming  the 
flowers.  I  extended  my  hand  containing  a  half  franc, 
at  the  same  time  stooping  to  pick  up  a  sprig  of  ivy,  I 
asked  for  a  flower.  One  of  the  nan  looked  surprised  at 
my  proposal,  but  without  hesitation  cut  and  politely 
handed  me  a  spray  of  heliotrope.  Another  souvenir 
for  Minnie1?  collection.  <  hitside  the  entrance  gate,  v 
hired  a  coupe*  and  drove  up  through  the  Champs 
Kly>ee-  to  see  a  panoramic  view  of  the  battle  of  Solfe- 

20 


29S  HOME     LETTERS. 

rino ;  it  is  a  grand  representation,  gotten  up  under  the 
Emperor's  patronage,  and  for  his  own  glorification 
evidently ;  as  he  is  the  most  prominent  figure  in  the 
painting.  The  building  in  which  it  is  exhibited  is 
circular ;  and  must  cover  a  very  large  space.  We  paid 
two  francs  each  at  the  door,  entered  and  passing  along 
a  dimly  lighted  passage  way,  or  hall,  we  ascended  the 
stairs  which  led  up  to  a  circular  platform  from  which 
we  looked  out  upon  what  appeared  to  be  a  great  extent 
of  country,  a  succession  of  towns,  rivers,  hills,  and 
valleys.  In  the  foreground  the  battle  was  raging,  men 
and  animals  were  as  larg;e  as  life:  nothing;  was  wanting- 
but  moving  and  vital  animation  to  make  the  illusion 
perfect ;  between  the  painting  and  the  spectators  a 
mound  of  earth  was  raised,  over  which  was  scattered 
dismounted  cannon,  broken  carriage  wheels,  old  uni- 
forms, cannon  balls,  etc.,  to  make  the  whole  scene  more 
real  and  vivid.  A  French  soldier,  perhaps  one  who 
had  taken  part  in  the  conflict,  described  in  loud  and 
heroic  tones  the  various  movements  and  evolutions,  but 
of  course  we  could  not  understand  much  that  he  said. 

The  closing  hours  of  twilight  we  passed  in  the  Bois 
de  Boulogne,  having  a  delightful  drive,  but  not  seeing 
more  than  a  half  dozen  fashionable  equipages.  The 
beau-monde,  must  be  at  the  sea-side  I  suppose,  but  the 
principal  avenues  were  crowded  with  a  plainer  class  of 
people  in  holiday  garb,  who  were  out  to  see  sights  as 
we  were  ;  and  we  at  least,  were  not  disappointed,  for  in 
passing  beyond  the  main  avenue  to  reach  a  more 
secluded  part  of  the  grounds,  we  came  suddenly  upon 
a  bridal  party,  all  dressed  in  festal  array,  illusion,  lace, 
pearls  and  flowers.  How  pretty  they  all  looked 
standing  in  a  group  together  at  the  foot  of  the 
"  Cascade  Longchamps,"  a  waterfall  that  we  had  gone 
to  see,  when  this  pretty  tableau  diverted  our  attention. 


FB  >>  '/     A  B  /.'  0  A  l>.  299 

The  ceremony  seemed  jusl  concluded,  and  the  bride 
was  accept in^  tin-  ron^-rat  illations  of  her  friends;  and 
among  the  number  we  fell  almosl  inclined  to  include 
ourselves,  in  acknowledgment  of  the  kindness  they 
had  conferred  in  getting  up  Buch  a  pleasanl  incident 
for  our  gratification,  and  to  make  the  lasl  visil  to  this 
lovely  park  memorable1  as  a  wedding  day. 

Tuesday  evening,  nine  o'clock.     J is  off  to  the 

"  Grand,"  and  I  was  left  at  home  with  instructions  to 
to  bed  immediately,  and  immediately  after  an  interval  I 
will  go,  jusl  as  soon  as  I  ran  settle  my  mind, and  brain 
down  to  a  quiescent  state.  The  day's  enjoyments  and 
attendant  excitements  have  se1  them  both  in  such  an 
irrepressible  flutter ;  for  what  reason  I  will  tell  you,  and 
as  far  as  possible  let  you  have  a  share  in  my  pleasure. 
You  know  that  before  I  se1  my  foot  upon  French  soil 
my  heart  was  fixed  in  the  determination  to  - 
Malmaison,  if  possible.  When  our  first  visit  was 
brought  to  a  close,  and  the  desire  was  unaccomplished, 
I  left  Paris  feeling  more  regrel  on  that  account,  than 
for  having  missed  any  other  Bight.  Then,  no  ad- 
mittance could  be  gained;  now  restriction-  are 
removed,  and  to-day,  we  have  seen  the  home  of  the 
Empress  Josephine.  At  11  a.  m.,  we  found  ourselv  - 
seated  in  one  of  three  compartments  of  a  first-class 
car  on  our  way  to  Rueil ; — a  very  old  town  ten  miles 
distant  from  the  city.  A  half  hour  accomplished  the 
journey,  and  from  that  point  we  were  conveyed  over 
what  is  called  here  the  "American  tram-way,'3  up  to 
within  live  minutes'  walk  of  the  "Chateau."  The 
buildings  cannot  he  seen  at  a  distance,  the  ground 
being  quite  level  upon  which  they  are  located,  until 
vou  enter  a  long  avenue  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long  ; 
which      is     delightfully    shaded    on     either    side    by 


800  HOME     LETTERS. 

immensely  large  trees,  whose  interlacing  branches  form 
an  arch  overhead.  At  the  entrance  gate  sentinels 
were  posted,  and  inside  the  enclosure  a  half  dozen,  at 
different  points,  were  stationed.  The  palace  did  not  at 
first  impress  us  favorably,  standing  out  glaringly  in  the 
noontide  sun,  with  no  pretensions  to  grace  of  outline, 
and  no  shade  to  conceal  its  unattractiveness.  The 
court  yard  enclosed  perhaps  a  half  acre,  covered  with 
coarse  gravel  difficult  to  walk  over  ;  a  flag  stone  walk 
on  either  side  bordered  by  shrubbery  and  vines ;  and . 
two  lines  of  orange  trees  ranged  parallel  with  the 
house.  The  principal  entrance  door  was  narrow  and 
quite  low.  The  hall,  would  be  called  in  a  modern 
built  mansion  a  large  vestibule ;  and  the  three  com- 
municating rooms  on  each  side,  would  be  spoken  of  as 
pleasant,  cosey,  sitting-rooms,  old  fashioned  in  their 
arrangements,  but  not  at  all  elegant  either  in  finish  or 
embellishment.  The  ceilings  are  very  low,  the  windows 
small,  the  wood  work  light  and  plain  in  finish,  and  the 
door  knobs  and  window  fastenings  old  fashioned  in 
the  extreme.  The  little  brass  rings  attached  to  the 
closet  doors  reminding  me  of  some  of  the  country 
houses  in  Xew  Jersey.  The  furniture  contained  in  the 
different  apartments  is  the  same,  with  the  exception  of 
the  coverings,  that  were  in  use  during  the  years  that 
Josephine  occupied  the  "  Chateau,"  and  has  been 
gathered  up  with  loving  care  by  the  Empress  Eugenie, 
from  the  different  members  of  the  family,  from  the 
Louvre,  from  private  collections,  from  all  sources,  to 
beautify  Malmaison  during  the  Exposition  year,  and  to 
awaken  pleasant  memories  of  Xapoleon  and  Josephine. 
In  the  drawing-room,  near  an  open  window,  stood 
the  harp,  an  ancient  instrument,  upon  which  Josephine 
used  to  play,  a  piece  of  music  on  the  stand  before  it. 
Alas,  how  silent  now  are  the  fingers  that  once  swept 


iiJH 

A!  Jl  111  11  fi 


I    UUlLlll  i 


M*LMAItOM. 


/'/,'  0  .V     .1  B  A'  0  AD. 

over  the  strings!  The  furniture  coverings  and  drape- 
ries were  flamingly  gay,  brighl  orange  color,  with  trim- 
mings of  black  velvet  and  gold  ;  the  lambrequins  above 
the  curtains  had  the  initials  J.  B.  embroidered  in  the 
centre;  and  her  writ Lng  desk  was  the  fac  simile  of  our 
upright  piano.  Themosl  beautiful  table  thai  Ceversaw 
was  in  this  drawing-room,  and  it  was  circular  in  form, 
containing  in  a  depressed  surface  the  miniature  likeness 
of  the  firsl  Emperor, and  his  marshals.  The  paintings 
were  on  ivory,  superbly  beautiful  in  execution  and 
faultless  in  coloring;  the  skin  having  the  apparent 
softness  of  human  flesh,  and  Napoleon's  imperial  robes 
of  velvet,  with  an  ermine  lining, reallv  seemed  to  stand 
out  beyond  his  person. 

Then  in  the  adjoining  salon,  the  largest  apartment, 
exquisitely  furnished  with  paintings  in  the  panel-  of 
fresco,  and  mantels  se1  with  jewels,  we  saw  Josephine's 
embroidering  frame,  with  the  canvas  still  stretched 
upon  it;  the  design  half  finished,  and  intended  for  a 
chair  cover;  a  spray  of  rose-buds  jusl  completed,  and 
the  needle  threaded  and  placed  in  the  canvas  at  the 
space  where  the  last  stitch  that  was  taken  on  it  by 
Josephine  is  marked,  just  as  she  left  it  when  her  last 
sickness  came  suddenly  on.  Beside  the  frame  an  open 
baskel  stand,  containing  halls  of  embroidering  silk,  her 
small  gold  thimble  and  scissors,  charmingly  ornament*  d 
with  a  setting  of  pearls  around  each  finger  circle! 

How  I  coveted  their  possession  ! 

l'.eyond    the    parlor    is    the    dining-hall,   paved    with 

black  and  white  marble  diamonds;  next  to  this  is  the 
council-room,  where  the  Emperor  always  received  his 
generals,  and  from  which  you  pass  into  the  library, 
which  has  an  outlook  upon  the  gardens,  and  from  one 

window  of  which  a  rustic  bridge  lead-  out  to  pleasant 

shaded  walks.     The  hook-eases   are    all    in   mahdgany 


302  HOME     LETTERS. 

and  green  linings,  low  and  not  ornamentally  finished ; 
there  was  an  immense  array  of  maps  and  charts,  and 
a  globe  of  the  two  hemispheres,  swung  in  its  frame, 
Napoleon's  chair  and  his  writing  table,  (upon  which  it 
is  said  that  he  planned  his  principal  campaigns,)  stood 
in  the  centre  of  the  room  ;  the  old  drab-colored  velvet 
cloth,  faded  and  all  splattered  over  with  ink. 

Up  stairs  nearly  all  the  rooms  overlooked  the  gar- 
dens in  the  rear  of  the  dwelling,  which  was  much  the 
prettiest  view.  The  ceilings  were  even  lower  than 
those  of  the  first  story ;  the  passage  ways  narrow,  the 
longest  one  running  the  width  of  the  house,  and  paved 
with  brick  tiles,  a  rough  footway  for  satin  slippers  to 
j:>ass  over ;  we  saw  two  pair,  dainty  little  things,  the 
last  ever  worn  by  the  Empress. 

Josephine's  bed-chamber  was  draped  in  crimson 
damask  and  gold,  on  the  walls  and  ceiling,  but  about 
the  bed  there  was  a  drapery  of  white  satin,  spangled 
with  gold  ;  the  very  bed  on  which  she  died  after  a  few 
days'  illness.  It  was  the  serene  and  cloudless  evening 
of  a  tranquil  summer's  day,  the  29th  of  May,  1814, 
when  her  gentle  spirit  sank  into  its  final  sleep.  How 
devoted  and  true  her  human  attachment ;  how  tender 
and  affecting  her  dying  prayer ;  clasping  the  minia- 
ture of  the  Emperor  fervently  to  her  bosom,  she  ex- 
claimed, "  0  God !  watch  over  Napoleon,  while  he 
remains  in  the  desert  of  this  world  ;  alas !  though  he 
hath  committed  great  faults,  hath  he  not  expiated 
them  by  great  sufferings  ?  Just  God,  thou  hast  looked 
into  his  heart,  and  has  seen  by  how  ardent  a  desire  for 
useful  and  durable  improvements  he  was  animated  ! 
Deign  to  approve  my  last  petition.  And  may  this 
image  of  my  husband  bear  me  witness  that  my  latest 
wish,  and  my  latest  prayer  were  for  him  and  for  my 
children." 


Fli  0  11     A  B  E  0  A  />. 

Upon  an  easel,  near  the  bed  was  a  small  painting, 
commemorating  and  depicting  the  scene  of  N'apoleon's 
Last  visit  to  the  chateau.  It  pictured  him  kneeling 
beside  the  couch,  his  face  buried  in  his  hands,  while 
Eortense  stood  behind  him  in  tears.  Did  he  remember 
then,  in  that  hour  of  bitter  desolation,  the  words 
spoken  at  their  final  separation;  did  he  repenl  liis 
folly  in  putting  away  from  Lis  heart  the  best  and 
truest   friend  he  ever  had?   "Josephine!  I   have  been 

as  fortunate  as  was  ever  man  upon  the  face  of  the 
earth,  hut  in  this  hour,  when  a  storm  is  gathering 
over  my  head,  I  have  not  any  one  in  this  wide  world 
but  you  upon  whom  I  can  repose." 

In  the  room  that  was  zealously  guarded  by  three 
soldiers,  on   a    raised    platform   stood    the  cot-bed    on 

which     Xapoleoii     died     at      St.     Helena;     the    coverlet 

which  was  last  arranged  about  his  body  after  death, 
and  the  largo  white  flannel  wrapper  which  he  used 
to  wear.  On  another  platform  was  mounted  hi-  old 
camp-chair,  the  old  bureau  which  served  him  through 
all  his  campaigns,  then,  in  glass  cases  all  around  the 
room,  hundreds  of  little  souvenirs,  autograph  letters  of 
himself  and  Josephine,  the  personal  arms  of  the  Em- 
peror, his  swords  and  pistols,  his  epaulet-,  the  watch  of 
"Josephine  Beauharnais,"  pictures  of  the  "little  King 
of  Rome,  four  months  old,"  miniature  likenesses  of 
Hortense  and  Eugene  Beauharnais,  etc. 

Out  in  the  grounds  anion--  the  flowers,  there  now 
stands  a  little  bronze  monument  with  this  inscription: 
"  The  last  step  of  the  Emperor."  It  was  placed  on  the 
spot  where  his  foot  touched  last  as  he  Bprang  into  the 
carriage  which  bore  him  to  the  sea  shore.  Saint 
Helena  came  next.  Xothiiiij  that  I  have  seen  in  Frai 
has  interested  or  touched  me  as  much  a.-  Malmaison. 

M.  C.    A. 


304-  HOME     LETTERS. 


Wednesday,  September  25. 

I  begin  to  write  the  end  of  Tuesday's  journal,  which 

M has  brought  clown  to  the  time  of  our  departure 

from  Malmaison.     When  we   found   ourselves  in  the 

court  yard,  M said,  "  I  must  have  some  memento  of 

this  place,"  but  how  to  get  it  was  the  difficulty ;  for  the 
armed  sentinel  keeps  watch  here,  as  indeed  he  does  every- 
where in  France,  so  that  no  opportunity  presented  itself 
to  appropriate  the  least  twig  or  leaf  from  the  grounds. 

M went  up  to  the  soldier  who  was  passing  to  and 

fro,  and  extending  her  hand  containing  a  piece  of  silver 
coin,  said,  "  souvenir  for  Amerique,"  but  he  did  not 
appear  to  understand  what  she  wanted,  was  very  ob- 
tuse, or  very  polite,  perhaps  not  wishing  to  refuse  ;  she 
took  hold  of  a  sprig  of  ivy  that  covered  the  wall,  and 
made  a  motion  as  if  intending  to  break  it,  but  he  shook 
his  head  negatively,  in  a  way  not  to  be  mistaken.  Just 
at  this  moment  a  large  man  in  regimentals  came  into 
the  yard,  and  to  him  she  renewed  her  request,  but  he 
could  not  speak  English,  and  asked  if  we  spoke  Ger- 
man. I  made  him  understand  that  we  were  from  Penn- 
sylvania, where  many  people  spoke  his  native  tongue, 
and  that  we  wanted  a  souvenir  of  Malmaison  to  take 
back  with  us.  He  broke  off  from  a  lemon  tree  that 
grew  in  a  box  near  to  where  we  were  standing  two 

leaves,  and  gave  them  to  M .     He   several  times 

said  something  about  the  kirch,  which  is  the  Ger- 
man word  for  church,  and  pointed  to  the  spire 
of  the  chapel  of  the  village,  which  was  not  far  off, 
but  as  we  could  not  understand  his  meaning,  we  did 
not  visit  the  kirch,  and  you  can  imagine  our  regret, 


/'/,'  0  M    A  B  n  <>  A  D.  305 

when  "ii  our  return  home  we  found  thai  Josephine  was 
buried  in  the  church  a1  Rueil,  and  Hortense  in  the 
cr\|ii  beneath  it.  A.8  we  had  seen  the  place  where  the 
Empress  spenl  bo  many  happy  and  unhappy  hours  of 
her  life,  her  home  when  she  married  the  young  general 
then  unknown  to  tame,  and  to  which  she  retired  when 
he  had  torn  the  crown  from  her  brow,  and  degraded 
her  from  her  lofty  position,  we  fell  much  regrel  thai 
when  we  were  so  near  to  it.  we  had  not  looked  upon  the 
tomb,  in  which  is  deposited  the  dusl  of  the  mosl  lovely 

woman  who  ever  bore  rule  in  France.     M had  an 

impression  that  she  was  buried  in  St.  Denis,  in  the 
church  which  encloses  the  remains  of  so  many  of  the 
former  kings  and  emperors  of  this  country.  Our  visit 
to  Malmaison,  which  is  the  French  for  Evil  House,  was 
intensely  interesting,  especially  to  M ;  the  apart- 
ments and  mementoes  of  Josephine  saddened,  ye1  grati- 
fied her  beyond  expression;  while  for  me,  the  cabinet 
or  library  of  KTapole'on  was  the  great  attraction;  for 
here  were  conceived  the  wondrous  schemes  which  over- 
threw empires,  and  made  and  displaced  the  mighty  of 
the  earth.  The  apartment  was  decorated  in  Pompeian 
style  by  the  Empress,  who  prepared  it  as  a  surprise  for 
her  husband,  on  his  re1  urn  from  his  victorious  campaign 
in  Egypt.  A  curious  clock  in  this  room  attracts  atten- 
tion; it  mark-  the  hours  and  seasons,  and  the  changes 
of  the  moon;  upon  its  face  is  the  Latin  inscription 
Xescit  Reverti:  It  docs  not  know  how  to  go  backwards  ; 
nor  did  the  Man  of  Destiny,  when  the  "hundred  days" 
were  ended,  and  he,  a  fugitive  from  Waterloo,  fled  to 
Malmaison  to  spend  there  his  lasl  uighl  in  Fran< 
How  these  unheeded  words  of  warning  and  of  prophecy 
mus1  have  glared  upon  him  in  the  lonely  hours  of  that 
sad  night,  as  the  cheerful  tick  of  the  little  time  pi, 
called  his  attention  to  the  fatal  sentence,  nescit  reverti; 


§06  ROME     LETTERS. 

could  he  then  have  recalled  that  deed  which  proved  to 
be  the  great  mistake  of  his  life,  and  gone  back  to  the 
days  of  his  early  love,  when  Josephine  as  wife  and  Em- 
press shed  such  lustre  upon  his  throne,  and  gave  to  him 
his  purest  joy,  how  gladly  would  he  have  done  so  ;  it 
was  too  late — he  could  not  go  back. 

"Once  to  every  man  and  nation  comes  the  moment  to  decide, 
In  the  strife  of  truth  with  falsehood,  for  the  good  or  evil  side  ; 
Some  great  cause,  God  for  trial,  offering  each  the  bloom  or  blight, 
And  the  choice  goes  by  forever,  'twixt  the  darkness  and  the  light." 

We  had  dinner,  for  a  novelty,  in  our  hotel,  and  I 
had  time  for  rest  before  going  to  the  Grand  Hotel  at 
eight  o'clock.  When  I  reached  there,  not  many  persons 
were  present,  only  one  or  two  Philadelphians  whom  I 
knew ;  Mr.  Claghorn  himself  was  so  changed  in  appear- 
ance that  at  first  I  did  not  recognize  him  ;  but  soon  Mr. 
N".  B.  Brown  came  in,  for  whom  I  had  been  looking, 
having  learned  by  letter  from  Mr.  O'Brien,  that  he  and 
Mrs.  B.  had  sailed  for  Europe ;  he  was  soon  followed  by 
Major  Brinton,  Mr.  Thomas  Mellor,  Mr.  Baily,  Mr.  Lee 
and  Howard  Roberts  from  Philadelphia,  and  then  I  felt 
more  at  home ;  but  most  of  those  who  were  present  were 
strangers  to  me ;  Chancellor  Zabriskie  of  New  Jersey, 
with  whom  Grandpa  is  acquainted,  Dr.  Eldridge  the 
Pastor  of  the  American  Chapel,  and  Dr.  Lambison  an 
Episcopal  rector  were  among  the  guests  of  the  evening. 

Altogether,  over  one  hundred   persons  sat  down  to 

dinner.     As  M has  mentioned,  the  entertainment 

was  in  honor  of  T.  Buchanan  Reed,  and  the  evening 
was,  to  a  great  extent,  given  up  to  him  for  recitations 
of  his  poems,  but  speeches  were  also  made  by  several 
who  were  present,  and  Mr.  Claghorn  very  much  to 
my  surprise  called  me  first  to  the  floor;  to  the  com- 
pliment thus  paid  me  by  our  generous  host  I  did  not 
fail  to  respond.     The  table  was  elegantly  laid  out  and 


FB  o  V    A  B  i:  <>  .1  D 


was  loaded  with  the  variety  and  ]  n*< » t*t  i — i « n  1  of  good 
things  which  Paris  can  produce.  Flowers  also  added 
to  its  beauty,  and  before  I  left,  I  appropriated  aome  for 

M 's  collection ;  aboul  half-pasl  twelve  the  gathering 

broke  up,  and  a  very  delightful  evening  it  was  to  all 
the  guests.  Mr.  Claghorn  has  been  very  liberal  to  his 
countrymen;  a  yearagoon  the  Fourth  of  July,  he  gave 
a  magnificenl  dinner  at  Leghorn,  and  last  Fourth  of 
July  at  St.  Petersburg;  this,  \  Buppose,  he  intends  as  a 
closing  demonstration,  as  he  expects  to  return  home  in 
XovriiiluT,  having  been  away  aboul  t  wo  years.  I  [e  has 
travelled  through  the  East  and  made  a  tour  of  the  Xilc. 

J.   A. 


§08  HOME     LETTERS, 


Wednesday,  September  25.  We  were  up  at  peep  of 
day,  although  it  was  long  after  midnight  when  we 
sought  our  pillows ;  sleep  and  rest  must  be  postponed 
until  a  more  convenient  season,  our  last  day  in  Paris 
cannot  be  passed  inactively.  I  confess  it  makes  me 
feel  sad  to  say  good-bye  to  so  much  loveliness  and 
beauty,  with  the  probabilities  all  against  my  ever 
seeing  again  these  radiant  streets.  The  whole  city  has 
a  bright  and  festive  aspect.  The  principal  building- 
stone  is  limestone,  of  a  very  light  cream-color,  which, 
though  durable,  is  said  to  be  so  soft  when  taken  from 
the  quarry,  that  it  may  be  carved  almost  as  easily  as 
wood.  There  is,  therefore,  a  great  deal  of  graceful 
carving  in  the  front  of  nearly  every  building,  pilasters, 
mouldings,  heads,  busts,  and  figures  in  bass-relief. 

The  first  duty  of  the  morning  was  to  redeem  J 's 

pledge  to  call  at  the  Grand  Hotel  Louvre,  to  see  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Brown.  Both  seemed  glad  to  greet  familiar 
home  faces  in  a  strange  country,  and  pleased  to  have 
sympathy  in  sickness,  for  they  are  both  invalids.     Mr. 

B looks  very  feeble,  and  I  doubt  his  restoration  to 

health  again ;  although  he  himself  is  sanguine,  and 
hopeful  that  the  rest,  change  of  scene,  and  skilful 
medical  treatment  will  effect  a  cure. 

Returning  to  the  L'athe'ne'e  after  this  visit,  we  com- 
pleted our  final  arrangements  for  departure  ;  packing, 
feeing  the  chambermaid  and  boots,  and  the  ordering 
of  our  dinner  at  half-past  twelve.  All  this  disposed 
of,  we  strolled  out  a  square  or  two  to  take  our  last 
survey  of  the  gay  Boulevard  des  Italiens,  which  is  the 
great  centre  of  vitality  and  animation  in  Paris,  like 


/■'/.'  0  M     .1  B  R  <>  .1  l>.  809 

Broadway  to  New  Fork,  the  favorite  Btreel  where  all 

■ 

the  glittering  pageants  pass,  and  the  highway  for 
eleganl  equipages,  en  routeior  the  Bois  de  Boulogne, 
where  the  stylish  eUgantes  in  their  Bhowy  and  volumi- 
nous toilettes,  delight  to  show  off  their  coquettish 
charms.  It  is  of  greal  width,  and  the  sidewalks  are 
Dearly  the  breadth  of  an  ordinary  street.  Double  rows 
of  trees  are  planted  along  the  asphaltic  pavement, 
and  magnificent  houses,  hotels,  and  dazzlingly  deco- 
rated  shops,  and  gorgeously  embellished  cafe's  are  built 
on  either  side. 

Then  the  "  Klysian  Fields''  looked  so  inviting  in 
the  distance,  we  could  no1  resist  the  temptation  to 
walk  under  the  trees,  to  see  once  more  the  fountains 
throwing  up  their  Bparkling  waters,  the  fresh  and 
beautiful  Bowers,  and  the  merry-go-round,  where 
bonnes  and  children  were  seated  on  wooden  horses; 
they  were  whirling  round  and  round  at  a  rapid  rate, 
apparently  as  much  delighted  as  though  mounted  upon 
vital  steeds.  The  general  enjoyment  was  so  contagious 
thai  we  found  ourselves  laughing  as  heartily  as  the 
crowd,  a1  the  actors  of  the  merry  feat. 

I  do  not  remember  to  have  menl  ioned  union--  a  gr<  at 
many  other  delightful  " speciality "  of  this  captiva- 
ting city,  the  flower-markets.  The  one  in  the  open 
space  in  front  of  the  church  of  the  Madeleine,  alwi 
attracted  our  attention  by  the  great  variety  and  beauty 
of  the  flowers  :  large  quantities  growing  in  vases  and 
jars,  and  Dumberless  bouquets,  which  the  vendors,  all 
women,  were  arranging  with  rare  taste,  as  they  were 
seated  amid  their  fragrant  and  luxuriant  wealth. 

( lur  leave  taking  had  quite  a  home  character  about  it. 
Old  Monsieur,  and  Madame  Pollonais,  Madamoiselle 
Marie,  Frederick,  (our  intelligent,  pale  faced  little 
garcon)  and  two  other  waiters  who  occasionally  served 


310  HOME     LETTERS. 

us,  stood  in  a  group  waiting  to  shake  hands  and  say 
good-bye,  and  at  the  same  time  to  wish  us  a  pleasant 
and  safe  journey,  and  to  express  the  hope  that  we 
would  visit  them  again  next  year.  Old  Monsieur  said, 
if,  not  so  soon,  in  the  interval  he  "  would  be  happy  to 
serve  Monsieur  Allison  by  executing  any  commissions 
that  he  would  intrust  to  his  care."  Frederick,  made 
the  Alpenstocks  the  excuse  to  see  us  last  at  the 
carriage  door,  saying  as  he  shook  hands  for  the  third 
time,  "  Madame,  I  shall  often  think  of  you,  good-bye." 
This  manifestation  of  feeling  was  very  pleasant,  more 
acceptable  than  you  would  suppose ;  but  remember 
how  far  from  home  we  are,  and  that  it  reminded  us  of 
another  parting. 

At  the  depot  our  baggage  was  weighed,  paid  for  and 
ticketed  for  London  via  Boulogne,  as  they  have  no 
system  for  checking  baggage  in  Europe.  At  the  hour 
of  two  p.  m.,  we  passed  out  of  the  city,  and  through 
the  suburbs  of  Paris,  casting  {like  Lot's  wife)  longing, 
lingering  looks  behind.  Only  one  incident  that  is 
worth  remembering  and  recording,  that  gave  us 
exquisite  pleasure,  was  in  having  with  us  in  our 
compartment  of  the  car,  a  little  boy,  who  was  the  very 

counterpart  of  our  dear  little  Perrin.     J and  I  both 

exclaimed  the  moment  we  saw  him,  how  much  that 
child  looks  like  Perrin.  Did  you  ever  see  two  more 
alike  ?  The  form  of  the  face,  the  color  of  the  eyes,  the 
hair,  the  complexion  and  expression  all  are  very  much 
the  same  and  the  slender  figure  too.  His  parents  were 
French  people,  the  mother  not  pretty,  but  interesting, 
the  father  could  speak  a  little  and  comprehend  more 
English.  And  when  we  told  him  the  interest  we  had 
in  his  child,  he  seemed  very  much  gratified,  and  the 
little  fellow  opened  his  big  black  eyes  wonderingly, 
when  informed  that  we  were  talking  about  him.     At 


FB  <>  1/     .1  5  B  0  A  D.  .;// 

parting  I  kissed  him  od  both  cheeks  and  wished  it  w 

the  real  Perrin,  and  not  his  likeness.     .1 ,  as  usual, 

won  the  heart  of  his  mother  by  Fondling  the  baby,  but 
I  fell  more  interesl  in  watching  the  boy,  and  was 
happier  for  having  seen  him.  It  was  as  late  as  ten  in 
the  evening  when  we  reached  Boulogne,  and  here  we 
were  to  take  boat,  cross  the  channel,  or  rather  pass  ap 
it,  to  the  Thames  river,  and  then  on  to  London.  Ar 
sitting  for  seven  hours  without  much  change  of  posi- 
tion, and  having  only  a  satchel  and  water-proof  to 
carry,  our  determination  was  to  walk,  only  a  short 
distant  as  we  said  it  must  be  to  the  steamer.  Berehy 
hangs  a  tale,  and  a  lesson  to  over  wise  people  who  will 
take  things  for  granted  ;  Bee  how  we  were  punished  for 
our  presumption.  Starting  off  at  a  brisk  pace,  follow- 
ing the  crowd,  which  J said  undoubtedly  was  going 

in  our  direction,  we  went  along  nimbly  for  half  a 
dozen  squares,  when,  lo!  and  behold!  at  a  sudden  turn, 
at  the  crossing  of  a  bridge,  our  guides  seemed  in  an 
instant  to  disappear  and  we  were  almost  alone  in  a 
dismal  street.  Just  at  this  point  when  we  began  to 
I  <»ur  situation  critical  and  the  probabilities  doubt- 
ful about  sleeping  on  thatboat,a  lubberly  boy  walked 
up  beside  J and  offered  to  carry  the  satchel,  mum- 
bling something  that  we  interpreted  to  mean,  "shall  I 
carry  it  to  the  boat,  sir."  Xo  other  objeel  bu1  getl 
to  the  steamer  had  possession  of  our  minds ;  and  here 
avc  were  at  fault  again  in  supposing  that  this  was  the 
only  idea  in  the  boy's  noddle.  He  was  oil"  on  a  half 
run  before  any  further  explanation  could  be  made  or 
asked  and  we  were  in  hot  pursuit,  more  afraid  now 
that  we  should  not  catch  thi  boy  than  the  boat,  and  find 
ourselves  minus  a  good  many  little  treasures  that  we 
had  [>icked  up  by  the  way,  and  that  we  had  thought 
too  valuable  to  trust  to  our  trunk.    Leaving  me,  J 


31%  HOME     LETTERS. 

overhauled  him  just  as  his  nether  garments  were  dis- 
appearing round  the  corner,  and  marched  him  into  a 
grocer's  shop,  called  him  to  an  account,  fortunately  in  a 
place  where  one  of  the  attendants  could  speak  English. 
The  boy's  impressions  were,  that  we  desired  lodgings 
for  the  night,  and  his  effort  was  to  get  us  as  quickly  as 
possible  under  care  and  shelter.  New  instructions 
were  given  him,  and  we  turned  face  about  to  retrace 
our  steps,  now  seriously  anxious  for  fear  we  should 
miss  our  passage,  as  more  than  a  half  hour  had  been 
lost  by  this  adventure.  We  took  our  revenge  upon  the 
fat  bog,  and  this  time  obliged  him  to  trot  at  the  top  of 
his  speed.  But  this  poor  old  ladg  came  panting  on  be- 
hind, I  assure  you ;  for  it  was  up  one  cobble-paved 
street,  then  down  another,  through  lanes  and  by-ways 
to  shorten  the  distance,  unable  to  see  ten  rods  ahead  in 
the  circuitous  windings  until  at  last  we  came  out  upon 
the  wharf,  three  squares  above  the  vessel.  Then  it  was 
through  mire  and  mud,  around  boxes  and  barrels,  be- 
tween bales  and  hogsheads,  jostling  pedestrians  in  the 
crooked  passage  ways,  dodging  cabs  and  omnibuses, 
looking  before  and  behind,  darting  fearfully  under  the 
horses'  noses,  grateful  if  we  escaped  being  borne  down 
by  their  hoofs,  our  olfactory  organs  all  the  while  dis- 
gusted with  vile  smells,  a  mixture  of  stale  fish  and  to- 
bacco, rum  and  onions.  We  shall  remember  our  mid- 
night walk  in  the  streets  of  Boulogne,  the  lumpish  boy, 
and  the  odors  that  only  Cologne  can  equal.  And  after 
this  tramp  of  three  miles  (the  anxiety  and  fatigue  that 
might  have  been  saved  for  two  francs)  we  had  a  half 
hour  to  spare  before  the  boat  was  in  readiness  to  start. 
It  was  crowded,  uncomfortably  full,  and  we  passed  be- 
low, hoping  to  secure  a  berth,  but  already  people  were 
contending  about  the  best  places.  One  lady  (?)  said, 
"  well,  these   berths   are  ours   and  we  intend  to  have 


/■'/.'  0  M      A  B  R  i)  A  D.  .;/.; 

them."  The  quiel  reply  of  the  steward  was,  "  Madame, 
we  will  see  firsl  whal  numbers  your  tickets  '••■ill  for." 

.I *>   check   gave   him  a   comfortable  resting-pli 

on  a  sofa.  I  was  elevated  three  tiers  high,  on  a  little 
narrow  ledge,  tucked  away  like  a  bundle  of  Boiled 
clothing,  and  to  reach  it.  I  had  to  ask  the  assistance 
of  the  stewardess;  in  return  I  thanked  her  for  the 
attention,  and  expressed  some  sympathy  a1  the  want 
of  consideration  on  the  pari  of  people  calling  them- 
selves ladies  and  gentlemen,  which  seemed  to  impress 
her  as  a  thing  so  unusual  thai  she  said,  "Oh!  thank 
you,  madame;  ir  is  very  pleasant  to  get  a  kind  word, 
and  a  little  sympathy.  I  so  Beldom  gel  ir."  Just 
below  me  lay  a  florid  plethoric  English  woman ;  al  her 

side  s1 1  a  large  tumbler  of  gin  and  water,  thai   is, 

it  was  stationary  when  she  was  not  sipping  it.  which 
was  about  every  five  minutes.  Every  available  place 
was  occupied,  and  when  all  were  stowed  away  in  the 
berths,  cots  covered  the  floor,  leaving  not  an  inch  to 
spare  for  passage  ways,  and  the  poor  exhausted  stew- 
ardess -at  on  a  chair  at  the  door  to  keep  watch  and  be 
ready  to  serve  if  called. 

J and   I  arc  writing  at   the  same  time,  and  the 

hour  is  midnight,  making  up  this  patcfi-work  letter. 
when  we  both  feel  so  wearythsd  we  should  much  rather 
be  in  bed,  if  it  were  not  to  keep  you  advised  of  all  our 
movements.  Apologies  are  not  necessary,  you  will 
readily  understand  that  it  is  quit  impossible  to  W\ 
connectedly  under  such  circumstances.  My  eyes  are 
about  closed  with  drowsiness,  and   I  have  not  vitalitv 

i 

enough  to  hunt  ideas  or  words  to  express  them.     God 

bless  you  all  and  have  yon  in  His  holy  keeping. 

M.  C  A. 


21 


SlJf  HOME     LETTERS. 


Friday,  September  27.  I  begin  again  to  write  a 
small  portion  of  this,  our  patch-work  letter.  "We  are 
now,  Friday  morning,  in  our  room,  Charing  Cross 
Hotel,  London,  feeling  much  pressed  for  time  to  write 
and  see  all  that  we  can,  in  the  short  interval  that  now 
remains  to  us  before  we  go  on  shipboard.  Yesterday 
we  were  landed  somewhere  on  the  Thames  river,  about 
one  o'clock,  instead  of  seven  as  we  had  expected.  The 
morning  proved  to  be  very  foggy,  and  several  times 
after  we  entered  the  river  we  had  to  stoj)  and  wait 
for  the  mist  to  do  us  the  favor  of  clearing,  as  it  was 
not  safe,  in  this  crowded  highway,  for  boats  to  make 
progress.  Several  times  I  went  on  deck  to  obtain  a 
view  of  the  banks  of  the  stream,  which  could  scarcely 
be  seen,  and  as  often  retreated  to  the  protection  of 
the  cabin  against  the  chill  air  of  the  morning,  where 
breakfast  was  served  in  a  very  unsatisfactory  man- 
ner, yet  it  was  better  than  nothing,  as  dinner 
seemed  to  be  a  good  way  off.  After  a  time  the 
fog  lifted  a  little,  and  I  then  remained  on  deck  for 
several  hours ;  a  gentleman  who  was  born  in  London, 
and  who  seemed  familiar  with  it,  kindly  pointed  out 
the  outline  of  prominent  buildings  and  localities  as  we 
moved  slowly  up  the  stream  ;  but  I  can  only -say  that 
I  have  seen  something  of  the  Tower,  of  .Billingsgate, 
of  Kensington,  the  entrance  to  the  Tunnel,  and  a 
world  of  houses  that  looked  dim  and  gloomy  enough 
as  they  loomed  out  of  the  thick  covering  with 
which  this  London  fog  enveloped  them.  "When 
the  sun  was  most  powerful,  the  atmosphere  had 
something   of  the  appearance   of  our  Indian  Summer 


FRO  M     A  B  S  0  A  V.  .;/.; 

haze,  though  not  bo  transparent.    < o'clock  brought 

ii-  to  the  wharf,  and  <>ur  Luggage,  which  had  been 
passed  by  a  custom  house  official,  for  it  was  qoI  really 
examined,  was  carried  across  four  orfive  boats  before 
it  reached  the  wharf.  Theofficer  boarded  us  al  Grav 
End,  for  the  purpose  of  looking  after  the  smugglers, 
and  each  one  in  turn  had  to  present  his  baggage,  and 
when  I  had  my  three  trunks  broughl  up  on  deck  I 
said  to  him,  w-l  am  on  my  return  home  to  the  United 
States,  and  have  nothing  to  declare  for  duty  in  England;" 
and  then  proposed  to  show  him  my  passage  receipt;  he 
said,  "No,  you  are  all  right,  sir:  please  unlock  this  one/5 
pointing  to  the  largesl  trunk,  which  I  did,  and  without 
oven  touching  an  article  in  it,  he  placed  his  tickel  upon 
it.  When  an  opportunity  offered,  I  said  to  him  that 
it  was  pleasant  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  a  gentleman; 
thai  one  in  his  position  could  give  a  great  deal  of 
trouble,  it'  so  disposed.  He  replied,  that  he  had  been 
in  America,  and  liked  our  people  and  country,  and  in 
conversation  afterwards,  I  found  that  he  was  one  <  »f  the 
few  Englishmen  whose  sympathies  were  with  us  in  our 
war  with  the  South.  The  course  of  the  English  govern- 
ment  was  something  he  could  not  explain,  hut  person- 
ally he  rejoiced  at  the  success  of  the  North,  and  the 
suppression  of  the  rebellion.     Our  entrance  into  London 

was  well  calculated  to  make  both  M and   myself 

feel  a  little  depressed,  for  everything  was  dark  and 
dingy  looking  aboul  us.  The  city  having  all  the  dirty 
appearance  of  Philadelphia  along  Water  street,  only 
much  worse;  and  when  we  emerged  into  the  Strand, 
down  which  we  drove  for  a  considerable  distant  . 
everything  contrasted  so  unfavorably  with  Paris,  that 
we  were  conscious  of  a  feeling  of  disappointment.  We 
drove  immediately  to  Charing  Cross  where  we  are  now, 
and  were  obliged  to  take  a  room,  small  and  incom 


$16  HOME     LETTERS. 

nient,  on  the  third  story,  but  we  will  not  remain  here 
unless  better  accommodated,  which  was  promised,  but 
not  as  yet  performed.  As  soon  as  possible,  I  started  in 
search  of  the  office  of  the  Legation  of  the  United  States. 
"With  Mr.  Moran  I  was  personally  acquainted,  and  had 
directed  Hottinguer  to  send  everything  to  him  that 
should  reach  Paris  after  the  morning  of  the  22d.  I 
made  inquiry  at  the  office  of  the  hotel  for  his  direction, 
but  could  get  no  satisfaction.  They  did  not  know, 
and  no  one  seemed  disposed  to  assist  me  in  finding  out. 
I  went  to  one  and  then  to  another,  receiving  a  surly 
reply  from  each  in  turn.  The  directory  only  gave  me 
his  residence,  some  four  or  five  miles  distant.  I  then 
inquired  among  the  cab  men,  but  they  could  give  me 
no  better  information,  but  finally  one  suggested  my 
making  inquiry  at  a  book  store  which  he  said  was 
several  squares  distant;  I  selected  the  best  looking 
"hansom,"  and  the  smartest  looking  driver,  and  said 
to  him  as  Grant  said  to  Sheridan  in  the  Valley  of  the 
Shenandoah,  "go  ahead."  I  had  not  mistaken  my 
man;  for  he  drove  off  at  furious  speed,  and  soon 
brought  me  to  the  book  store,  where,  after  examining  a 
directory,  I  was  given  the  address,  18  Belgrave  Square, 
and  then  I  made  a  second  start  after  news  from  home. 
The  driver  saw  that  I  was  in  a  hurry,  and  putting 
whip  to  his  horse,  he  compelled  him  to  a  canter;  and 
we  were  soon  beyond  the  crowd,  but  he  kept  urging 
his  horse,  until  finally  down  he  fell.  I  threw  open  the 
door  of  the  "hansom"  and  sprang  out ;  but  the  driver 
very  coolly  kept  his  seat,  which  was  at  the  back  of  the 
carriage,  and  said:  "Don't  be  alarmed,  sir,  keep  your 
place,"  and  touching  the  horse  a  couple  of  times  with  his 
lash,  brought  him  to  his  feet  again,  and  then  we  started 
faster  than  ever.  I  thought  it  a  very  fast  beginning 
for  London.     He  drew  up  at  18  Belgrave  Square,  a  very 


FB  0  M     A  li  i:  OA  l>.  Si; 

beautiful  Bection  of  fchecity,]   pane  the  bell,  and  the 

■ 

door  was  opened  by  a  Large  man  in  livery,  much  to  my 
surprise,  for  I  Bupposed  our  republican  representativ 
abroad  all  Lived  plainly,  from  uecessity  it'  no1  from 
choice.  Mv  inquiry  for  Mr.  Moran  was  answered  by 
a  look  of  surprise,  and  the  accompanying  information, 
"This  is  the  residence  of  the  Austrian  Minister."  [1 
was  my  turnto  look  astonished;  the  gentleman  in 
green  broadcloth  and  gill  buttons  was,  however,  polite, 
asked  me  in,  and  Bhowed  me  into  an  ante-room,  where 
another  gentleman,  tor  such  they  both  proved  them- 
selves to  be,  whatever  their  official  Btatioris,  assisted  me 

to  find  what   he  supposed,  was   the   residen< f  Mr. 

Adam-,  to  which  [directed  the  "hansom  man"  to  drive 
me  lie  was  off  in  an  instant  anil  came  within  an  ace  of 
running  over  an  Irish  teamster,  who  Looked,  and  -aid 
a  great  many  things  difficult  to  he  understood;  then 
he  made  another  man  in  regimentals  angry  by  com- 
pelling  him  to  get  out  of  his  way  in  a  hurry,  which 
the  English  do  not  seem  to  like;  and  finally  brought 
up  at  147  Great  Portland  street,  where,  as  booh  as  I 
entered,  a  gentleman  rose  up  from  his  table,  exclaiming: 
"  Why,  Judge  Allison,  how  do  you  do,'' and  bo  I  had 
found  Mr.  Moran.  From  him  I  got  the  missing  letter 
of  August  23d,  another  from  .Minnie  up  to  September 
9th,  and  one  from  Grandpa  up  to  the  10th  of  Septem- 
ber, so,  you  see,  I   was  amply   repaid   by  my  search 

through    London  for  news.     Both   M and  I  were 

delighted  to  hear  that  all  were  well,  and  we  again 
thank  the  source  of  all  good  for  these  great  blessings. 
We  hope  soon  to  be  Eome  again,  and  now  count  the 
days  before  sailing,  as  the  time  is  fixed  and  the  ar- 
rangements are  made  for  our  departure. 

Last  evening  we  went  to  Madame  Tussaud's  famous 
collection  of  wax  works,  which  Mr.  Conarroe  recom- 


318 


HOME     LETTERS. 


mended  us  to  see  before  we  left  London.  Spent  several 
hours  there  very  much  to  our  satisfaction ;  they  are 
remarkable  productions,  and  are  certainly  one  of  the 
wonders  on  exhibition  in  this  city.  I  was  much 
gratified  in  noticing  that  the  first  figures  on  either 
side  of  the  door  as  we  entered  were  Washington  and 
Franklin.  There  is  a  representation  of  Madame  Tus- 
saud  in  wax,  executed  by  her  own  hands,  which  shows 
her  to  have  been  a  little  woman  with  sharp  features, 
dressed  in  plain  black  cloak  and  bonnet,  with  no  ap- 
pearance of  genius,  but  which  she  must  have  possessed 
in  an  uncommon  degree.  Madame  was  a  Swiss,  a 
native  of  Berne,  and  it  was  not  difficult  to  discover 
where  her  sympathies  lay. 

J.  A. 


/■'/.'  0  .V     A  li  11  0  AD.  81Q 


Sabbath  Day^  September  29.     Balf-pasl  3  p.m., J 

and  I  intend  adopting  the  Bame  plan  thai  we  did 
in  writing  our  last  letter,  that  is,  to  take  separate 
days;  and  as  he  is  the  more  vigorous  of  the  two,  I 
have  put  down  to  his  account  Friday  and  Saturday, 
as  days  containing  most  labor,  and  more  details  of 
interest  to  write  about.  The  evening  (Thursday)  of 
our  arrival  in  London  was  spent  in  the  examination  of 
a  large  collection  of  life-sized  figures,  moulded  by 
Madame  Tussaud.  A  little  memorandum,  made  1>\ 
Mr.  Conarroe  in  our  aote-book,  reminded  as  of  the 
promise  given  to  him  not  to  leave  thecity  without  see- 
ing it :  and  although  very  tired  we  determined  to  get  a 
cab  and  go  at  once  to  Baker  street.  A  resolution  we 
did  Qot  regret  after  having  -pent  two  hours  pleasantly 
in  the  company  of  so  many  celebrities,  world-renowned 
men  and  women,  some  of  them  mon  attractive  in  this 
plastic  form  than  they  were  in  the  flesh.  On  either 
side  of  the  entrance  door  (to  flatter  Americans  I  sup- 
pose, who  are  her  principal  patrons,)  stood  Washing- 
ton and  Franklin:  beyond,  a  group  composed  of  thi 
figures,  Mr.  Lincoln,  General  Grant,  and  Andy  John- 
son, the  likenesses  admirable.  Opposite  stood  Jeff. 
Davis  and  Mr.  slide]].  Another  group  of  progressive 
men,  consisted  of  John  Bright,  Richard  Cobden,  and 
S.  Roberts  of  Liberia.  The  Royal  Family  of  England, 
"our  most  excellent  Queen,"  the  centre  from  which 
the  figures  radiated  in  a  princely  line.  Ber  Highness 
the  Duchess  of  Kent,  was  in  full  court  dress,  green 
velvet,  point  laee.  feathers  and  glittering  diamonds; 
behind  the  Queen's  chair  were  the  Duchess  of  Suther- 


320  II  0  31 E     LETTERS. 

land  (mistress  of  the  robes)  and  the  late  Duchess  of 
Gloucester,  together  with  Prince  Albert,  Arthur,  and 
the  Prince  of  Hesse,  the  Princess  Louisa,  Helena, 
Beatrice,  and  the  Princess  Alexandria.  Beside  these, 
were  Lord  John  Russell,  Disraeli,  Sir  Charles  Napier, 
the  Dukes  of  Cambridge  and  Devonshire,  'Lord  Ma- 
cauley,  and  a  great  number  of  other  notables  who 
would  be  entitled  to  such  prominence.  The  costumes 
of  the  ladies  were  recherche  and  what  would  be  suita- 
ble at  the  Queen's  receptions,  very  grand  and  magnifi- 
cent of  course,  and  resplendent  with  precious  stones  ; 
but  so  redundant  and  elaborate  in  style  and  finish  that 
I  could  not  attempt  to  describe  anything  minutely. 
In  the  centre  of  another  circle  stood  the  Emperor 
Napoleon,  (his  figure  appearing  diminutive,)  contrasted 
with  Nicholas  of  Russia;  the  Emperor  of  Austria,  the 
Kings  of  Sardinia,  Greece,  and  Holland,  and  the  Queen 
of  Spain  with  the  Empress  of  France,  who  is  the  most 
beautiful  woman,  among  a  large  number  of  ladies,  in- 
cluding even  Marie  Antoinette.  The  cast  was  taken  in 
1856,  before  the  delicacy  of  her  features  and  profile  had 
been  marred  by  too  great  fulness. 

In  a  shrine,  especially  appropriated  for  the  purpose — 
lay  England's  idol,  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  the  figure 
so  perfect  and  the  resemblance  to  the  original  so  exact 
in  feature — that  it  was  difficult  to  divest  one's  self  of 
the  idea  that  you  were  not  in  reality  looking  upon  the 
living  form  of  the  Duke,  resting  under  a  splendid 
canopy  of  black  velvet  and  gold  cloth.  The  body  was 
wrapped  about  with  the  mantle  of  the  Order  of  the 
Garter,  and  surrounded  by  emblems  of  his  dignity. 

On  Friday  morning  we  employed  a  bright  and  intel- 
ligent West  Indian,  the  driver  of  a  hansom,  to  show  us 
the  external  attractions  of  the  city.  We  passed  up  the 
Strand  to  Ludgate  Hill,  and  around  St.  Paul's  Church 


/•  i;  0  '/     .1  B  /.'  OA  V. 

yard  to  Cheapside,  in  search  of  the  office  of  Baring  ,v 
Brothers,  where  a  check  was  given  upon  our  letter  of 
credil  ;  bul  it  must  be  cashed  a1  the  Bank  of  England, 

fortunately  n<»t  far  away,  only  a  few  blocks  to  pass, 
along  a  densely  crowded  thoroughfare  to  Cornhill 
street,  wlrere  the  money  was  paid  promptly,  and  we 
returned  to  St.  Paul's  Church.  It  stands  on  an 
elevated  position  at  the  end  of  Ludgate  Bill,  bul  so 
shut  iii  and  surrounded  by  other  buildings  and  narrow 
streel  3,  thai  it  is  impossible  to  judge  correctly  of  either 
its  immensity  or  architectural  beauty.  "The  ground 
plan  is  that  of  a  cross,  five  hundred  and  fourteen  feel 
long,  and  two  hundred  and  eighty-seven  feel  wide-, 
and  the  height  of  the  whole  structure  from  the  pave- 
lnent  to  the  top  of  the  cross  is  three  hundred  and 
seventy-six  feet."  You  may  from  these  figures  form 
some  idea  of  the  size  and  extent  of  the  building,  that 
cost  nearly  four  millions  of  dollars.  <  me  architect  and 
one  master  mason  spent  thirty-five  years  of  labor  upon 
it  ;  and  the  remains  of  the  architect.  Sir  Christopher 
Wren,  are  deposited  in  the  vaults  of  the  cathedral,  as 
well  as  those  of  Wellington  and  Nelson,  who  lie  side 
by  side.  Among  a  great  number  of  monuments,  in- 
teresting from  the  illustrious  men  they  are  designed 
to  commemorate,  is  a  statue  of  John  Howard,  the 
philanthropist,  the  first  erected  in  St.  Paul's,  and  at  a 
cosl  of  thirteen  thousand  guineas:  a  kneeling  figure  of 
Bishop  Heber,  the  '-Soldier  of  the  Cross,"  who 
victories,  though  bloodless,  were  worthy  of  immor- 
tality: a  statue  of  Nelson,  who  was  an  idol  with  the 
English  people;  almost  everywhere  have  we  seen 
-tat  ue- to  hi-  memory:  "yel  the  only  woman  he  ever 
loved,  and  whom  with  his  last  breath  of  Life  he 
bequeathed  to  his  country,  entreating  protection  for 
her,   was   left   to  suffer  and   to    die   in   the   great*  31 


§22  HOME     LETTERS. 

poverty."  Religious  services  are  held  in  this  church 
every  day  three  times,  seats  being  provided  for  three 
thousand  persons.  Visitors  are  admitted  without 
charge  to  the  building ;  but  a  fee  is  exacted  for  the 
ascent  to  the  dome,  which  we  did  not  attempt  for  two 
reasons ;  first,  because  it  was  attended  with  some  risk 
and  danger ;  and  in  the  second  place  it  was  too. 
fatiguing  an  effort  to  mount  up  six  hundred  and 
sixteen  steps  to  the  clock-room,  where  the  great  bell  is 
hung ;  which  is  never  used  except  for  the  striking  of 
the  hour  announcing  the  birth  of  a  royal  baby,  or  for 
tolling  at  the  deaths  and  funerals  of  any  of  the  royal 
family — or  of  the  Bishop  of  London,  the  Dean  of  St. 
Paul's  ;  and  should  he  die  in  his  mayoralty,  the  Lord 
Mayor  of  London.  The  last  public  procession  to  St. 
Paul's  was  on  the  occasion  of  the  funeral  of  the  Duke 
of  Wellington. 

Opposite  the  cathedral  we  found  a  neat  little  res- 
taurant, where  we  enjoyed  a  comfortable  lunch — a 
chop,  bread  and  butter,  tea  and  raspberry  tarts,  which 
we  shared  with  our  obliging  driver,  who  seemed 
greatly  surprised  when  I  handed  him  his  portion  to 
eat  upon  the  box.  All  the  streets  about  St.  Paul's 
appeared  familiar,  at  least  from  reading  and  associ- 
ation, and  the  names  you  will  readily  recall ;  Pater- 
noster row,  Amen  corner,  and  Ave-Maria  lane,  the 
head-quarters  for  all  literary  men. 

Out  through  old  Bond  street,  Piccadilly,  Pall  Mall,  it 
is  thus  named  from  a  game  played  in  England  during  the 
reign  of  Charles  I.    From  Cheapside  and  Oxford  streets, 

we  passed  into  Hyde  Park,  (not  as  beautiful,  J says, 

as  the  Central  Park  of  New  York,)  but  kept  in  such 
perfect  condition,  the  grass  close  shorn,  and  as  smooth 
and  clean  as  a  tapestry  carpet.  The  herding  of  large 
flocks  of  sheep  and   cattle,  added  very  much  to  the 


FB  a  V     ABROAD. 

picturesqueness  of  the  distanl  views;  having  such  an 
extenl  of  surface  four  hundred  acres  -  they  turn  it  to 
some  practical  account.  The  portion  called  Rotten 
row,  from  the  French  "  Route  du  Roi,"  is  devoted 
exclusively  to  equestrians,  no  wheel  carriages  •  ept 
the  Queen's  being  allowed.  A  pretty  lake  called  the 
Serpent i IK-,  where  bathing  is  allowed  in  Bummer  at 
certain  hours  in  the  morning,  has  on  the  north,  along 
its  bank,  a  celebrated  drive  called  the  "  Ladies'  Mile," 
and  at  its  head  a  beautiful  flower  garden,  containing 
statuary  and  fountains.  A  large  Btone  bridge  connects 
Eyde  Park  with  Kensington  gardens  (no  carriag 
are  allowed  to  enter)  ami  the  palace  in  which  the 
Queen  was  born.  St.  James'  Park  is  immediately 
opposite  Buckingham  Palace,  which  is  a  very  plain 
building  externally,  whatever  the  interior  arrange- 
ments may  he.  Workmen  are  now  employed  in  re- 
pairing the  outside,  in  anticipation  of  the  Queen's 
return  to  the  city  for  the  winter,  if  it  may  he  possible 
to  induce  her  to  put  aside  her  self-indulgeni  grief,  and 
regard  the  wishes  of  her  people. 

At  the  corner  of  Piccadilly  and  Eyde  Park  we  -aw 
the  residence  of  the  late  Duke  of  Wellington,  which 
is  not  at  all  imposing  in  appearance  externally.  The 
centre  portion  of  the  mansion,  is  only  three  stories 
high,  with  wings  on  either  side,  and  the  mosl  import- 
ant room  within,  is  the  "great  west-room,*"  with  its 
seven  windows  overlooking  Hyde  Park,  in  which  the 
celebrated  Waterloo  banquets  were  held,  "at  which 
the  Great  Duke  presided  from  the  year  1  s  1 ' *>  until 
1852,  on  the  18th  day  of  June."  On  the  north  side  of 
St.  James'  Park  stands  the  palace  of  that  name,  where 
the  Queen  usually  holds  her  "drawing-rooms."  It  is- 
a  long,  low,  rambling,  dingy  brick  building,  with  no 
outward  embellishments,  although  it  is  said  to  have 


3S4  II  0  ME     LET  TE  B  S. 

internal  comforts  and  accommodations  superior  to  most 
other  palaces.  Immediately  opposite,  enclosed  by  a  high 
brick  wall,  stands  the  home  of  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
and  if  half  the  stories  that  are  told  about  him  are  true, 
he  must  be  a  miserable  reprobate.  Near  Charing  Cross 
is  Trafalgar  Square,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  an  im- 
mensely large  fountain,  with  smaller  ones  at  the  four 
corners ;  and  outside  of  these  again  are  statues  of  Sir 
Charles  Napier,  Sir  Henry  Havelock,  and  George 
IV.  The  other  unoccupied  corner  is  waiting  for  some 
one  to  drop  out  of  life  and  the  peerage  to  be  immor- 
talized in  bronze.  Immediately  between  two  of  the 
statues  rises  up  an  immensely  high  column  in  memory 
of  Nelson,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  the  hero.  The 
public  buildings  fronting  upon  this  Square  are  very 
fine  ; — the  National  Picture  Gallery,  and  Northumber- 
land House,  the  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Northum- 
berland, with  its  carved  lion  standing  out  boldly  above 
the  roof-line,  against  the  sky. 

Weary  and  exhausted  with  the  long  ride,  we  turned 
our  steps  to  Charing  Cross — seated  ourselves  in  the 
elevator  and  were  carried  up  four  stories  to  number 
112,  when  to  our  surprise  we  saw  at  a  glance  that  our 
pert  little  Miss  had  kept  her  promise  to  give  us  more 
comfortable  quarters,  on  the  second  floor  at  number  68, 
and  from  the  deferential  tones  of  the  attendants  we 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  they  had  by  some  means 
been  informed  that  we  were  respectable,  and  that  it 
would  be  well  to  treat  us  civilly  ; — a  thing  the  French 
would  do  under  all  circumstances,  until  you  were 
proved  to  be  the  reverse.  They  are  always  courteous, 
and  the  very  tones  of  their  voices  in  replying  to  your 
questions,  are  sweet  and  gracious. 

J has  just  read  me  an  outline  of  what  he  has 

written,  and  I  discover  that  he  has  omitted  to  tell  you 


|~     t-KKAl    LRlTuX,       J 


7      8      ?     10     i.    n    ,j 

rrrrrrr 


"ttfrfittniir 


|(  AVI    REMEMBER    IHE_NUMBER  OF 


FB  i)  M     A  B  /.'  0  A  D. 

about  our  visit  to  the  "  Queen's  M      "  ■     Si  turday  after 
noon.    We  had  cards  of  admission,  through  Mr.  Moran, 
and  presenting  them  at  the  lodge  of  the  entrance 
opening  into  a  quadrangle,  with  buildings  two  stoi 
high  on  three  sides  :  we  were  received  bv  a  coruulenl 
lackey,   dressed    in    scarlet    Bhorl    clothes    with    k> 
buckles.     He  placed  as  in  charge  of  a  groom  in  Mack 
broadcloth,  white  necktie,  jack  boots,  yellow  tops,  and 
;i  high  hat,  with  an   immense   cockade   on    the   Bide, 
that  he  carried  about  with  the  self-complacen1  air  of  an 
Englishman.     rJ'li<-  stables  occupied  the  larger  portion 
of  two  sides  of  the  square,  with  a  spacious  riding-school 
for  tin-  use  of  tin.-  royal    family.     A   room    especially 
adapted  for  keeping  state  harness  and  trappings,  stables 
for  the  royal  horses,  and  houses  for  equipages  and  car- 
riages of  all  descriptions  and  sizes,  including  the  state 
chariot,  which  is  more  like  a  circus  van  than  anything 
that  I  can  compare  it  to.    The  body  of  the  cai      _    is  a 
mass  of  scroll-work — gilding  and  enamelled  painting — 
resting  u]  on  the  bodies  of  four  grotesque  figures,  hide- 
ous to  look  at.     Why  it  should  be  r<  tained  in  this  i  _ 
of  improvement  is  a  mystery,  after  having  done  -<  n 
for  three  hundred  years,  it  might  well  be  put  aside  to 
give  place  to  something  more  creditable  to  the  nine- 
teenth century.     It  requires  eight  horses  to  move  this 
unwieldy  affair  on  state  occasions,  when  Parliament  is 
opened,  or  prorogued,  or  dissolved  by  her  Majesty  in 
person,  and  the  order  observed   is  this:  "The  Queen 
leaves  Buckingham   Palace  at  2  p.  m.,  being  conducted 
toiler  carriage  by  the  Lord  Chamberlain,  and  her  crown 
carried  to  the  House  of  L<  ids    by   one  of  the   Lord 
Chamberlain's  chief  officers.     The  State  procession  in- 
cludes a   carriage  drawn  by  a  set   of  bays, 
three  gentlemen  Ushers  in  waiting:  a  carriage  drawn 
by  a  set  of  bays,  conveying  the  Groom  in  waiting,  and 


$26  HOME     LETTERS. 

the  Pages  of  Honor  in  waiting ;  a  carriage  drawn  by  a 
set  of  bays,  conveying  the  Equerry  in  waiting,  and  the 
Groom  of  the  Robes  ;  a  carriage  drawn  by  a  set  of  bays, 
conveying  the  Clerk  Marshal,  the  Field  Officer  in 
waiting,  and  the  Comptroller  of  the  Household ;  a 
carriage  drawn  by  a  set  of  bays,  conveying  the  Captain 
of  the  Yeomen  of  the  Guards,  the  Lord  in  waiting,  and 
the  Treasurer  of  the  Household ;  a  carriage  drawn  by  a 
set  of  black  horses,  conveying  the  Lady  in  waiting,  and 
the  Lord  Steward.  Here  the  carriage  procession  is 
broken  by  the  Queen's  Marshalmen,  the  Queen's  Foot- 
men in  State,  and  a  party  of  the  Yeoman  Guard.  Then 
follows  the  State  Coach  drawn  by  eight  cream-colored 
horses,  conveying  the  Queen,  the  Mistress  of  the  Robes, 
and  the  Master  of  the  Horse."  Then  coach  on  coach 
behind  a  long  drawn  out  train  in  glittering  array,  to 
witness  the  grand  display.  The  eight  cream-colored 
horses  we  saw,  they  were  of  a  very  peculiar  shade,  and 
their  eyes  were  as  pink  as  Albinos.  Altogether  we 
saw  perhaps  a  hundred,  some  of  them  splendid  looking 
animals,  plump  and  glossy,  each  one  in  his  own  stall, 
with  his  name  engraved  upon  a  brass  plate  over-head. 
Many  of  the  names  were  very  odd,  Indian  and  Orien- 
tal, but  the  larger  number  bore  the  names  of  distin- 
guished men ;  some  American,  more  English.  ]STo 
ladies'  parlor  could  be  kept  with  more  exact  neatness 
than  were  these  stables,  not  a  particle  of  filth  is  allowed 
to  remain  upon  the  floor.  A  man  passes  up  and  down 
continually,  gathering  up  anything  that  might  offend 
the  eye.  I  thought  it  would  be  well  if  her  royal 
majesty  would  look  after  her  Irish  subjects  with  the 
wary  solicitude  that  is  accorded  and  bestowed  upon 
these  soulless  brutes.  If  that  were  the  condition  of 
procedure,  we  should  hear  less  about  the  necessity  of  a 
Fenian  invasion.  M.  C.  A. 


r  u  0  M     A  B  /.'  0  A  D. 


Saturday  nighty  September  88.  We  are  a1  the  eloa 
another  dav  in  London,  and  although  very  tired,  are  in 
good  health  and  spirits.  We  are  compelled  to  hard 
work  tor  tlic  wry  few  days  in  which  we  must  see  the 
sights  of  this  modern  Babylon;  and  such  other  portions 
of  England  as  we  can  run  over  before  we  sail  for  home. 
This  morning,  with  all  the  haste  we  could  make,  it  v 
ten  o'clock  before  we  were  started,  for  our  fatigue  caused 
us  to  sleep  late.  We  called  an  "Andsome  "  and  started 
first  to  execute  a  commission  that  Mr.  Dulles  gave  me 
to  attend  to  for  him  before]  lefl  home;  which  was  to 
find  tin'  Rev:  Joseph  Mullins,  Secretary  of  the  London 
Missionary  Society,  and  deliver  to  him  a  copy  of  a  book 
written  by  his  wife,  railed  "Life  in  India."  and  repub- 
lished by  Mr.  D in  America,  with  a  change  of  title 

and  contents  in  part.     The  book  was  accompanied  by  a 

note,  introducing  me  to  Mr.  M ,  which  contained  a 

great  deal  that  could  only  he  accounted  for  by  the  fact 

that  Mr.  D is  of  French  extraction,  and   alwa; 

very  polite,  for  this  is  a  weakness  of  the  French  people. 
Grandpa  can  bear  witness  to  this  or  rather  his  friends 
can  for  him,  that  the  descendants  of  the  Bturdy  Hugue- 
nots  are  no  exception  to  the  rule.  2Mi\  Dulles  did  not 
know  where  Mr.  Mullins  lived,  or  where  the  office  of 
the  society  was  located;  and  the  directory  affordingme 
no  light  on  the  subject,  I  started  off  to  make  inquiry, 
though  to  be  candid  about  it,  sincerely  hoping  that  if 
we  found  his  office  or  habitation,  we  would  not  find 
Mr.  Mullins,  for  we  had  but  little  time  for  ceremony 
and  polite  attention  now.  Alter  my  experience  in 
finding  Mr.  Moran,  I  had  no  tear  of  failure,  and  so  we 


828  HOME     LETTERS. 

started  for  Exeter  Hall,  which  is  the  centre  of  much  of 
the  religious  interests  of  London :  we  thought  we 
would  probably  find  the  office  there,  or  learn  where  it 
was.  Exeter  Hall  is  on  the  Strand,  the  street  on  which 
our  hotel  fronts,  not  more  than  half  a  mile  from 
Charing  Cross,  and  we  had  seen  it  the  night  before 

when  taking  a  view  of  London  by  gas  light.     M 

and  I  both  wished  to  see  the  hall  itself,  in  which  the 
religious  population  of  London,  and  indeed  of  all  Eng- 
land hold  their  great  convocations.  On  passing  back 
through  a  long  entry  we  made  inquiry  of  the  first  man 
we  saw  for  Mr.  Mullins,  and  received  the  answer 
"  ^Nbt  here,  sir,  but  in  Finsbury,  at  the  Mission  House, 
Bloomfield  street ;"  which  was  several  miles  from 
where  we  were ;  but  as  I  had  a  desire  in  good  faith 

to   do  for  Mr.  D all  he  wished,  I  determined  to 

drive  to  the  place.  Before  going  we  asked  to  see  the 
hall,  and  our  informant  who  turned  out  to  be  the 
janitor  in  charge,  passed  us  and  the  keys  of  the  hall 
over  to  an  attendant,  with  directions  to  show  us 
through  the  building.  We  ascended  several  flights  of 
steps,  and  were  ushered  on  the  platform,  which  is 
considerably  elevated,  and  arranged  with  rows  of  seats 
ascending  one  above  another,  which  will  accommodate 
eight  hundred  persons,  when  occasion  requires,  as 
during  the  Oratorio  season.  "What  would  "  uncle  "Wil- 
liam "  say  if  he  could  only  hear  an  Oratorio  in  which 
eight  hundred  persons  took  part  ?  I  suppose  he  would 
go  off,  or  up,  at  the  amount  of  music.  I  once  went  to 
hear  an  oratorio  at  our  Academy,  in  which  three  hun- 
dred persons  managed  to  create  so  much  discordant 
sound  that  at  the  first  opportunity  I  picked  up  my  hat 
and  ran  out  of  the  building,  and  have  never  ventured 
upon  an  oratorio  since.  The  Hall  is  a  very  plain  one, 
and  like  everything  else  we  have  seen  in  London,  was 


/■'/;  0  U     A  i:  5  0  AD. 

very  dirty.  It  is  nearly  Bquare;  and  ourattendanl  Baid 
it  was  so  admirably  adapted  to  the  purpose  for  which  it 
was  intended,  thai  you  could  hear  almosl  as  distinctly 
in  the  farthest  end  of  the  room  as  near  the  platform. 

The  chief  interest  thai  both  M and  I  took  in  this 

place,  was  ita  association  with  the  performances  of  Dr. 
Cox,  many  years  ago,  at  the  first  meeting  (I  think  it 
was)  of  the  Evangelical  Alliance.  The  doctor  was  at 
thai  time  in  the  prime  of  life;  he  not  only  astonished 
but  electrified  the  grand  assembly  which  had  gathered 
together  to  form  a  common  bond  of  anion  and  brother- 
hood among  Christians;  his  performances  a1  that 
meeting  made  him  known  to  many  who  previously  had 
supposed  that  America  was  inhabited  only  by  Indians, 

Negroes  and  a  few  English  with  their  descendants.    Mr. 

> 

Barnes  told  me  that  the  speeches  which  he  heard  the 
doctor  make  at  that   time  were  the  most  eloquenl 
which  he  had  ever  listened. 

It  was  in  this  assembly  thai  our  representatives  made 
such  an  impression  on  Monad,  one  of  the  greal  men 
of  France,  who  rose  and  said  he  thanked  God  thai  Ee 
had  sent  to  them  such  intellectual  and  theological 
giants  to  instruct  and  benefit  them.     As  we  thus  stood 

in  the  great   room  in   old    Exeter,  \[ and   I   both 

imagined  that  we  could  see  Dr.  Cox  as  he  musl  h; 
appeared  at  that  time,  with  his  noble,  majestic  figure; 
his  expansive  forehead,  and  flowing  hair,  pouring  out 
his  rlotjiu'iir  and  soul  stirring  thoughts ;  we  fell  proud 
of  our  friend,  and  were  happy  in  our  contemplation 
of,  and  our  past  association  with  him,  regarding  the 
Doctor  as  we  do,  with  love  and  veneration,  as  one  of 
the  great  and  good  men  of  his  day  and  generation. 
How  sad  it  is  to  think  that  the  light  ^t'  his  brilliant 
intellect  should  become  obscured,  and  the  rich  and 
varied  stores  <J  knowledge  pass  away  to  be  lost  in  the 


380  HOME     LETTERS. 

tomb,  which  soon  must  be  his  resting  place  !  Most  ap- 
propriate to  him  would  be  the  inscription  I  saw  on  a 
monument  in  the  grand  old  Cathedral  of  St.  Paul's, 
"  Until  the  day  breaks  and  the  shadows  flee  away."  A 
hurried  drive  after  we  left  Exeter  Hall  soon  brought  us 
to  Fiusbury,  and  to  the  office  where  Mr.  Mulhns  ought 
to  have  been,  for  it  was  then  after  eleven  o'clock,  but 
where,  to  my  relief,  I  received  the  answer  that  he  had 
not  yet  arrived.  I  left  my  book  with  a  mulatto  man, 
of  a  very  genteel  appearance,  and  said  the  note  would 
explain  itself,  and  that  I  would  not  have  time  to  call 
again,  I  hurried  away  for  fear  he  would  come  in,  and  I 
would  thus  lose  an  hour.      Then  we  drove  at  once  to 

execute  a  commission  I  had  undertaken  for  Mr.  K , 

he  in  turn  doing  me  a  service  in  another  way,  which 
you  will  hear  of  by  and  by.  This  being  done,  we 
drove  to  Westminster  Abbey  and  the  Parliament 
House,  which  are  very  near  to  each  other ;  and,  dis- 
charging our  "  'Andsome  man,"  we  began,  with  the 
Abbey,  to  make  an  examination  of  that  which  is  here 
most  attractive  to  strangers.  I  cannot,  for  want  of 
time,  or  ability  to  describe,  attempt  a  pen  and  ink 
sketch  of  what  we  saw ;  as  a  month  of  reading  and 
careful  examination  would  be  needed  to  write  cor- 
rectly of  this  building  and  its  contents.  He  must  be  a 
familiar  student  of  English  history,  who,  without  re- 
freshing his  memory  with  the  records  of  the  past, 
can  tread  these  floors,  pass  through  its  aisles  and 
chapels,  see  at  every  turn  the  names  of  historic  men 
and  women,  busts,  monuments,  sculptured  images 
of  those  well  known  to  fame,  and  many  whose 
fame  consisted  in  having  their  names  engraven  here ; 
and  not  feel  lost  in  the  mass  of  past  events  that  all 
these  recall.  At  every  step  you  tread  upon  monu- 
mental slabs  that  cover  the  dust  of  kings  and  nobles  ; 


/■•/,'  0  M     .1  B  /.'  0  AD.  .;.;/ 

the  quaint  old  Abbots  for  three  hundred  years 
dwelt  within  these  walls,  whose  cloisters  were  their 
homes,  and  whose  vaults  became  their  final  resting 
place  One  record  I  saw  cu1  in  .-tone,  thai  dated  back 
to  1082,  the  year  in  which  the  entombed  died  and  was 
buried.  No  other  building  iu  the  world  cau  compare 
with  Westminster  Abbey  as  a  depository  of  the  re- 
mains of  those  who,  in  earlier  days,  were  of  the 
mighty  of  the  earth.  There  are  rows  of  tombs,  stone 
and  metal  coffins  and  urns,  where  the  formei  kin;.;'- ami 
queens  of  England  sleep,  beside  their  nobles,  some  of 
them  almost  as  powerful  as  their  sovereigns. 

As  we  passed  through  the  building,  our  conductor 
would  pause  and  point  to  a  name  engraved  upon 
the  -tone  floor  over  which  we  walked;  royal  names — 
now  so  little  regarded  that  every  day  the  idle  throng 
pass  over  them  and  hoed  them  not.  I  [ere  are  the 
tombs  and  representations  in  metal  or  in  stone,  of 
many  of  whose  history  1  knew  something;  and  of 
many  more  of  whom  I  could  not  recall  anythii  _. 
••The    Poet's   Corner,*'  was   to   me   most    interesting; 

owding  each  other  are  the  names  or  busts  of 
Dryden,  Shakspeare,  Campbell,  Thompson,  Southey, 
Goldsmith,  Bandel, McCauly,  Addison  and  Thackery; 
who  with  many  others  familiar  tons  all,  are  found  in 
this  nave,  or  corner  of  the  Abbey.  Addison  is  repre- 
sented as  he  appeared  when  alive,  and  immediately 
behind  him,  is  a  bust  of  Thackery,  so  close  that  they 
almost  touch  one  another.  With  this  1  was  deeply  im- 
pressed. an<l  1  will  tell  yon  why.  when  Thackery,  some 
twelve  or  fourteen  years  ago,  was  in  America,  he  was 
brought  into  the  Courl  of  Quarter  Sessions,  which  I 
was  then  holding;  I  invited  him  to  a  seat  on  the 
bench,  which  he  accepted,  and  remained  for  some  time, 
interested  in  the  trial  that  was  then  progressing,     lie 


$32  HOME     LETTERS. 

was  a  tall,  stout  man,  very  much  of  the  size  and  appear- 
ance of  Jacob  Broom  ;  and  when  he  came  in  he  puffed, 
from  the  exertion  of  walking,  like  an  overcharged 
bellows,  upon  which  the  pressure  is  too  suddenly 
brought  to  bear;  it  took  him  sometime  to  calm  down 
and  breathe  quietly.  That  evening  I  was  at  a  party 
given  by  George  M.  Wharton,  to  which  Thackery  was 
invited  and  which  he  attended  late  in  the  evening,  the 
early  part  having  been  devoted  to  a  lecture  on  Addi- 
son. George  Emlen,  whom  "  Uncle  William "  will 
remember,  heard  the  lecture ;  and  when  he  came  to  Mr. 
Wharton's,  he  said  to  me,  "  I  was  all  this  evening 
reminded  of  you."  Thackery's  mention  of  Joseph 
Addison,  presented  no  other  image  to  my  mind  than 
that  of  Joseph  Allison,  for  the  names  sounded  so  much 
alike,  that  I  could  not  disconnect  you  from  the  subject 
of  the  lecture;  not  long  after  George  Emlen,  noble  man 
that  he  was,  died ;  Joseph  Addison  had  long  before 
gone  home,  and  last  of  the  three,  Thackery,  one  night 
went  quietly  to  his  rest.  By  the  favor  of  God,  of 
those  who  were  alive  but  a  little  while  since,  I  alone 
am  left.  I  could  not  but  feel  impressed  with  this 
association  of  the  living  and  the  dead ;  gathered  to- 
gether yesterday  in  the  Poet's  Corner  of  Westminster 
Abbey.  It  would  be  folly  for  me  to  attempt  to  write 
you  the  details  concerning  this  venerable  structure.  It 
is  not  the  magnificence  of  the  building  that  impresses 
one,  when  standing  beneath  its  lofty  and  beautiful 
arches,  but  it  is  the  fact  that  this  is  England's  most 
highly  valued  burial  urn,  not  only  of  those  I  have 
named,  but  of  hundreds  that  I  have  not.  Here  are 
the  statues  of  such  men  as  Burk,  Pitt,  Fox,  Mans- 
field, Palmerston,  and  many  who  with  them  were 
born  to  immortality  ;  great,  not  because  of  their  birth 
and  station,  but  because  of  their  intellectual  superiority, 


FE  0  M     A  B  R  0  A  D. 

and  for  tin'  g 1  which  they  accomplished  in  their  day. 

After  having  been  shown  through  a  series  of  inner 
chapels  by  a  man  in  a  black  gown,  at  six  pence  a  head, 
ami  ti>M  in  a  few  hurried  words  the  history  of  each 
prominent  ohject,  we  passed  into  Westminster  Hall, 
more  ancient  and  venerable  than  the  Abbey  itself,  and 
as  closely  associated  with  the  past  of  England's  life  and 
history  as  any  other  spot  within  the  realm.  This  hall 
is  now  connected  with  the  new  Parliament  House; 
when  we  >a\v  it,  it  was  entirely  empty,  the  solitude  of 
a  vacation  rested  upon  it.  From  the  Hall  you  pass 
directly  into  the  Courts  of  Common  Pleas,  Exchequer, 
and  Queen's  Bench;  all  of  which  wnv  dosed,  so  that  I 
did  not  even  get  a  look  at  these  court  rooms,  which  I 
have  been  told  are  small,  and  in  no  way  attractive. 

The  Parliament  House  is  separated  from  the  Abbey 
by  the  width  of  the  intervening  street,  and  fac  - 
directly  on  the  Thames.  The  building  is  new,  the 
old  one  having  been  destroyed  by  fire  not  many 
years  since;  its  exterior  is  wit  imposing,  perhaps 
the  most  beautiful  which  we  have  seen,  but  the 
interior,  while  it  is  convenient  and  well  arranged, 
lias  not  much  of  grandeur  about  it.  The  tower  at 
one  end  of  it  is  elaborately  ornamented,  and  is  to  be 
carried  up  three  times  as  high  as  it  is  now.  We 
were  fortunate  in  making  our  visit  on  Saturday, 
as  on  this  day  the  halls  of  the  Lords  and  of  the 
Commons  arc  open  to  the  public,  a1  other  times,  the 
permit  of  the  Chamberlain  is  required  to  obtain  acc<  38 
to  them.  We  were  shown  through  the  robing-room  of 
the  Queen,  and  were  afterwards  conducted  to  the 
retiring-room  which  communicates  with  the  House 
of  Lords,  here  is  a  throne,  which  has  a  scat  on  ir> 
right  for  the  Prince  of  Wales,  and  one  on  the  left  for 
Prince  Albert,  now  made  vacant  by  his  death.     Here 


§g£  HOME     LETTERS. 

also  is  the  Woolsack  of  the  Lord  Chancellor,  which 
resembles  in  form  a  square  ottoman  with  a  padded 
support  for  the  back  in  the  centre.  In  neither  of  these 
halls  are  there  desks  and  chairs  like  those  which  are 
used  in  the  United .  States,  and  which  we  saw  in 
France,  Belgium,  and  Holland;  the  members  sit  on 
benches  covered  with  leather,  which,  in  appearance, 
are  not  unlike  sofas ;  in  the  House  of  Lords  the  color 
is  scarlet,  in  the  Commons  it  is  green.  "We  did  not 
spend  much  time  in  the  examination  of  the  Parliament 
House,  having  purchases  to  make  before  starting  for 
home,  the  rest  of  the  day  was  devoted  to  the  stores  of 
London.  Our  search  was  fruitless ;  we  wandered 
through  Oxford  and  Regent  streets  and  extended  our 
stroll  as  far  up  as  St.  Paul's  Church,  but  the  contrast 
with  the  gay  capital  of  France  is  so  marked  that  we 
felt  disappointed,  and  repeatedly  expressed  our  regret 
that  we  had  not  completed  this  portion  of  our  allotted 
task  before  crossing  the  Channel.  I  am  afraid  Paris 
has  spoiled  us  for  everything,  except  for  our  friends 
and  our  native  land  ;  to  these  we  always  turn  with 
joy  and  gladness,  and  the  thought  of  home  is  always 
our  most  cherished  companion ;  it  lightens  fatigue ; 
it  dispels  despondency;  it  gives  light  to  the  eye 
and  vigor  to  the  step,  especially  when  our  faces  are 
turned  toward  it,  and  the  back  is  to  the  strange  world 
which  has  separated  us  from  it.  From  our  room  in 
the  hotel  at  Charing  Cross,  I  send  to  each  of  you  a 
good-night  kiss,  it  will  not  be  long  before  I  will 
redeem  it  in  person,  if  life  and  health  are  spared  to  us. 

Monday  morning,  September  30.  I  am  up  early  again 
to  add  a  little  more  to  our  letter  home,  though  but 
little  have  I  to  write.  Sunday  was  a  quiet  day  with 
us ;   Mr.  Moran   had   procured  for   me  a  ticket  from 


/••/.'  0  M     .1  B  8  0  A  D. 

one  of  the  members  of  the  [nn's  of  Temple,  which  ad- 
mitted ii-  i"  morning  service,  so  we  made  haste  and 
reached  the  church  a1  the  appointed  hour,  only  to  be 
informed  that  the  services  had  been  suspended  for 
Beveral  weeks,  and  would  do1  recommence  until  the 
6th  of  October.  This  was  a  disappointment,  bul  as  i1 
could  not  be  avoided,  we  bore  it  patiently.  The 
church  belongs  to  flic  societies  of  the  Inner  and 
Middle  Temple;  it  is  very  old,  the  western  portion  of 
it  more  especially,  and  is  of  the  pointed  style  of  archi- 
tecture. It  was  built  by  the  Knights  Templars,  as  the 
record  Bays,  aboul  L185,  and  contains  a  number  of 
recumbenl  effigies  of  Knights  of  i  be  '  >rder.  There  i-  a 
doorway  at  the  one  end  of  it.  to  which  Mr.  Moran 
called  my  attention  as  being  very  rich  in  ancient  orna- 
mental mouldings,  but  the  passage  was  closed  i  gainsl 
as,  and  we  could  not  penetrate  into  that  which  v. 
within;  so  we  took  omnibus  and  went  to  Westminster 
Abbey.  When  we  reached  there,  the  introductory 
service  was  almost  over,  and  the  sermon  about  to  com- 
mence.  Of  this  I  heard  hnr  little,  onlv  a  sentence  now 
and  then,  it  was  recited  bya  clergyman  who  evidently 
desired  to  get  through  his  task  in  the  easiest  way  possi- 
ble to  himself.  We  sat  the  service  through,  which 
was  more  than  many  did,  and  then,  as  we  found  our- 
selves in  the  Poet's  Corner,  we  lingered  in  that  portion 
of  the  church,  but  hefore  long  one  of  the  old  beadles 
of  the  establishment  came  sweeping  down  upon  us, 
swinging  the  long  black  arms  of  his  robe,  as  it'  he  v 
clearing  the  house  of  a  swarm  of  flies,  crying  out, 
••Clear  the  church,  clear  the  church!"  drove  the  crowd 
before  him,  out  at  the  door,  which  he  closed  behind 

them. 

We  walked  to  our  Hotel,  which  was  not  far  off,  and 

turned  down  a  street  called  Carver  to  look  at  a  lion-  . 


°SQ  HOME     LETTERS. 

No.  7,  which  Mr.  Moran  told  me  was  Dr.  Franklin's 
residence,  when  he  was  minister  to  England.  John 
Quincy  Adams  at  one  time  lived  in  this  street  also. 
On  our  way  we  saw  several  very  destitute  children  and 
I  was  about  to  give  one  a  small  piece  of  money  when 
another  boy  came  up  carrying  a  baby  in  his  arms  and 
said :  "  don't  give  him  anything,  sir,  him  and  his 
brother  over  there,  (pointing  across  the  street,)  have 
run  away  from  home,  and  have  been  gone  three  weeks ;" 
crouching  in  the  corner  of  a  basement  door-way  was  a 
little  boy  not  over  six  years  of  age,  in  rags,  which 
hung  in  tatters  about  him,  his  hair  long  and  shaggy, 
and  his  person  dirty  as  it  could  be.  I  gave  each  of 
them  a  small  coin  upon  their  promising  to  go  home 
with  the  elder  brother.  We  walked  clown  to  the  end 
of  the  street,  and  returning  were  met  by  an  old  gentle- 
man who  waited  for  us  in  his  doorway  to  say  that  he 
had  seen  me  give  the  boys  some  money ;  and  he  wished 
to  tell  me  what  an  injury  such  acts  were  to  him  and 
his  neighbors,  who  were  greatly  annoyed  by  the 
children  who  bested  in  the  neighborhood.  I  asked  him 
why,  when  suffering  such  as  this  looked  in  at  him 
through  his  window,  knocked  at  his  door  and  asked 
for  bread,  he  did  not  relieve  it?  I  said  to  him  it  is 
very  easy  for  you  who  live  in  comfort  and  have  enough 
and  to  spare,  to  speak  harshly  of  these  poor  unfortunate 
children,  but  what  have  you  done  to  relieve  their 
miserable  condition?  They  are  your  poor  and  not 
those  of  the  stranger,  and  you  neither  give  them  the 
crumbs  that  fall  from  your  table,  nor  are  you  willing 
that  others  shall  help  them.  We  had  a  good  deal  of 
very  'plain  talk,  but  all  in  good  nature,  the  old  gentle- 
man seemed  rather  ashamed  of  himself  before  we  left. 
Of  all  the  countries  we  have  been  in,  Great  Britain  is 
the  only    one  in   which    such   poverty    and    suffering 


FROM     A  B 5  0  A  L  . 

[beets   the  eye  of  a  sojourner.     I  did  not  in  all 

Paris  one  ragged  child  on  the  street;  all  are  dressed 
decently,  and  appear  comfortable;  and  this  is  true 
also   of  Germany   and   Switzerland.     There  no- 

thing wrong  about  the  organization  and  workings  of 
Bociety  here,  but  I  Buppose  the  remedy  will  come 
some  time,  but  when  or  li<>\v,  who  can  tell '.'  It  purged 
France  through  revolution  and  blood,  and  if  the 
wealthy  people  of  this  country  do  aol  take  heed  in 
time,  the  wolf  thai  dow  howls  at  the  door  will  one 
day  devour  and  destroy.  When  it  reaches  the 
point  which  it  did  in  France,  that  the  alternative 
is  bread  or  blood,  it  becomes  a  dangerous  time  for 
those  who  have  the  bread.  The  remaining  portion 
of  the  day  we  staid  in  our  room,  dined  at  table- 
d'hote  for  the  first  time,  and  in  this  way  we  -pent  our 
second  Sabbath  in  England,  the  first  you  will  remem- 
ber was  passed  in  Liverpool.  I  must  cease  writing — 
the  Monster  below  me  is  awake;  his  roar  which  is  not 
unlike  the  voire  of  a  tempest,  reminds  me  that  I  must 
hasten  and  see  as  much  of  him  as  I  shall  he  aide  to-dav. 

■ 

for  time  presses  upon  us,  and  much  that  we  would  like 
toaccomplish  yet  remains  to  he  done. 

Thursday  morning.  This  is  the  third  of  October;  only 
six  davs  more  remain,  and  we  will  leave  these  shores 
to  begin  our  vovage  across  the  wide  waste  of  waters 
again.  This  morning  we  start  for  Oxford,  having  de- 
spatched our  trunks  by  express  last  evening  for  Liver- 
pool. Our  present  purpose  is  to  stop  at  several  points 
of  interest  before  reaching  Liverpool,  including  K> nil- 
worth.  Stratford,  and  Derby;  then  to  Chester,  where 
we  probably  will  spend  Sunday.  From  this  you  will 
9ee  that  our  trip  to  Scotland  has  been  abandoned.  We 
staid  a  few  days  too  long  in   France  to  enable  us  to  s 


338  HOME     LETTERS. 

there  without  great  effort,  and  giving  up  what  there  is 
between  this  and  our  point  of  departure  for  home.  It 
is  eleven  hours'  travel  by  rail,  to  Edinburgh  and  as 
many  hours  back  again ;  this  would  give  to  us  but 
a  day,  or  at   most  two  days,  for  that  city,  the   lakes 

and  Abbotsford.     I  was  fearful  of  this  tax  on  M 's 

strength,  but  she  had  a  great  desire  to  see  Edinburgh, 
I  think  John  Brown,  the  author  of  "Spare  Hours,"  is 
the  great  attraction  for  her ;  while  the  home  of  Knox, 
and  the  places  made  memorable  by  him,  inclined  me 
very  much  in  that  direction.  The  old  city  is  full  of 
interest,  Daniel  represented  it  to  us  as  a  most  beautiful 
and  quaint  place,  but  what  can't  be  accomplished  for 
want  of  time  and  strength,  must  be  given  up;  so  we 
shall  not  see  the  ancient  capital  of  Scotland  and  its  sur- 
roundings. I  have  only  time  to  write  a  few  hurried 
lines,  as  we  expect  to  leave  for  Oxford  immediately 
after  breakfast.  Tuesday  we  had  intended  to  devote  to 
sight  seeing,  but  unfortunately  began  with  shopping, 
and  ended  as  we  commenced  it ;  having  accomplished 
but  little,  we  returned  to  our  hotel  worn  out  with  the 
fatigues  of  the  day,  and  were  rewarded  with  a  night  of 
refreshing  sleep,  of  which  we  both  greatly  felt  the  bene- 
fit. Our  day's  stroll  through  the  city  seemed  to  deepen 
the  not  very  favorable  impression  that  London  had 
made  upon  us.  The  buildings  are,  many  of  them,  mas- 
sive, but  have  a  dark  and  gloomy  aspect ;  all  have  the 
appearance  of  antiquity,  which  is  the  result  of  the  moist 
climate  and  the  burning  of  the  soft  coal  of  England. 
We  were  most  favorably  impressed  with  the  public  in- 
stitutions and  the  club  houses  of  Regent  street,  but  even 
these  are  to  a  great  extent  wanting  in  ornament,  and 
no  portion  of  the  city  that  we  saw,  can  compare  with 
the  cheerful  aspect  and  clean  exterior  of  Philadelphia. 
Yet  to  Philadelphians  there  is  in  some  respects  a  home 


/•/.'  0  M     A  B  R  0  AD. 

feeling  in  London,  which  is  qoI  experienced  anywhere 
on  the  continent:  there  are  rows  of  brick  dwelling 
after  which  our  city  houses  were  for  many  years 
fashioned*  and  the  names  of  the  streets  and  places  of 
interest,  as  well  as  of  the  people,  are  those  with 
which  in  <>iic  way  or  another  we  have  become  most 
familiar.  One  feels  as  it'  he  mus1  have  known  Regent, 
Oxford,  Fleet  street,  and  Cheapside.  The  Hay- 
market,  with  its  theatre,  Trafalgar  Square,  Temple 
Bar,  High  Holborn ;  the  Tower  and  London  bridge,  St. 
Paul's  and  it-  association  with  Sir  Christopher  Wren, 
Westminster  Abbev,  and  tin-  sacred  memories  with 
which  it  is  conned  id;  and  to  a  lawyer  the  [nns  of 
Temple  and  the  Courts;  these  all,  and  many  others  in 
imagination  have  been  so  often  roamed  over,  that  one 
feels  as  if  a  pleasant  memory  was  revived,  and  that  he 
must  have  been  here  longyears  ago.  Ami  as  you  walk 
these  streets,  and  read  the  names  of  the  people  upon 
their  doors  <>r  upon  the  business  signs,  you  can  alm< 
cheat  yourself  into  the  belief  that  you  an-  upon  Market 
street,  and  tliis  i-  so  very  differenl  from  Paris  that  the 
feeling  is  one  ofrelief,as  the  associations  of  home  are  in 
this  way  always  made  a  pleasant  reality.  The  family 
in  name  on  both  sides  is  represented,  a-  we  saw  in  our 
travels  through  the  city.  There  is  a  Perrin,  who  like 
grandpa,  has  a  taste,  if  not  a  talent.  t'<>r  music;  he  an- 
nounces to  the  public  that  he  takes  part  in  oratorios ; 
and  another  who  merchandises  upon  a  extensive  scale 
near  St.  Paul'.-  church.  Joseph  Allison  i-  a  dealer  in 
silks  on  Oxford  street,  but  we  honored  neither  of  them 
with  our  cards  or  presence,  nor  with  any  portion  of  our 
cash.  Thus  far  I  had  written  when  1  was  compelled  to 
stop,  as  the  time  for  leaving  London  had  arrived.  In 
the  payment  of  our  hill  we  were  not  surprised  to  find  it 
quite  a  large   one,  as  all   our   information    led    us   to 


340  HOME     LETTERS. 

expect  a  higher  rate  of  charge  than  on  the  continent. 
Our  expenses  of  living  have  been  about  sixteen  dollars 
a  day,  for  both  of  us,  including  cab  hire ;  this  was  not 
more  than  we  had  anticipated ;  indeed,  we  rather 
thought  we  had  got  off  very  well.  The  day  before  I 
left  home,  Mr.  Drexel  said  "your  expenses  will  be  fif- 
teen dollars  a  day  for  each  person."  They  will  not 
amount  to  more  than  half  of  that  sum,  which  leaves 
something  with  which  to  remember  friends  at  home. 

I  write  now  from  Oxford,  it  is  three  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon.  We  reached  here  at  half-past  eleven, 
lunched,  then  engaged  a  cab,  and  went  to  see  all  that 
we  could  of  the  city  upon  a  run — or  a  drive  rather, 
and  have  got  through  with  all  that  we  can  take  time 
to  look  at  now.  We  are  in  a  quandary  whether  we 
ought  not  to  try  and  go  to  Leamington  to-night ; 
which  we  can  easily  do,  and  thus  get  an  early  start  in 
the  morning,  but  this  would  compel  us  to  stop  our 
writing,  which  we  prefer  not  to  do,  as  this  must  be 
mailed  to-morrow  for  Saturday's  steamer.  As  I  am 
in  Oxford,  I  will  write  you  in  brief  of  what  we  have 
seen  of  it,  and  then  go  back  to  "Wednesday  and  Thurs- 
day in  London.  Our  impression  of  this  place  is  a  very 
pleasant  one.  It  has  a  clean  and  bright  appearance,  and 
the  hotel  at  which  we  are  staying,  the  "  Randolph," 
(recommended  by  Mr.  Conarroe,)  is  large  and  of  gothic 
architecture,  everything  is  pointed  arch,  interior  and 
exterior.  We  were  not  asked  if  we  wanted  a  sitting- 
room  or  private  parlor,  as  is  commonly  the  case  in 
England  ;  but  were  provided  a  comfortable  sleeping- 
room  with  two  beds  in  it.  I  told  the  driver  of  the 
cab  to  take  us  around  and  through  the  city,  and  show 
us  the  colleges,  which  in  name  are  so  familiar  to  us 
from  our  readings.  There  are  nineteen  colleges,  and 
with  the  public  institutions  connected  with  them,  make 


FR  <>  M   a  /;  i:  OAB. 

twenty-four  buildings  ;  all  of  these  with  the  exception  of 
four  were  established  before  the  Reformation,  and  were 
generally  endowed  by  persons  whose  names  they  bear. 
Most  of  them,  except  the  portions  which  have  been 
either  in  part  rebuilt  or  rei&ced,  give  evidence  of  great 
antiquity,  for,  having  been  constructed  of  sofl  stone, 
they  have  gone  and  are  now  going  rapidly  to  decay. 
The  walls  are  scaling  off  so  much,  that  I  thoughl  it 
was  plaster,  until  I  examined  it.  and  found  that  time 
and  rln' weather  were  actually  eating  these  old  struc- 
tures away,  slice  by  slice.  Baliol  College  was  so  much 
dilapidated  that  it  has  been  pulled  down,  and  is  now 
being  rebuilt.  The  buildings  are  constructed  in  the 
form  of  a  hollow  square,  which  is  entered  through  an 
arehwaw  and  a  door  that  resembles  the  doors  of  our 
penitentiaries,  more  than  anything  else  that  occurs  to 
me  to  compare  them  to.  Some  of  the  plats  of  ground 
that  are  thus  surrounded  by  the  college  wall-  are 
without  anything  green  or  growing,  to  relieve  the 
gloomy  asped  of  these  time-defaced  structures,  hut 
many  of  them  have  shrubbery,  and  some  flowers  alo 
the  borders  and  about  the  old  doorway-,  that  -how  the 
taste  of  those  who  have  their  management  in  chars 
The  first  college  we  came  to.  our  cabman  attempted 
drive  us  through  the  grounds,  hut  was  stopped  by  a 
morose  specimen  of  humanity,  who  ordered  him  " 
take  his  old  thing,"  a-  he  called  the  cab,  "out  in  a 
hurry,"  hut  in  making  his  turn,  the  cabman  managed  to 
gel  far  enough  within  the  quadrangle  to  give  us  a  full 

view  o\'  the  interior  of  the  grounds  and  buildings.  An 
old  gentleman,  who  saw  the  uncivil  manner  in  which 
the  custodian  expelled  us,  came  after  us,  and  lifting  his 
hat,  very  politely,  said,  "we  could  go  in  and  see  all 
that  was  there;  hut  it  wa-  against  the  rules  to  drive 
in."'      We   thanked    him   kindlv,    bu1    did    not   alight; 


$]$  HOME     LETTERS. 

then  we  visited  the  University  ;  went  through  such 
portion  of  the  Bodleian  Library,  as  is  now  open  to 
visitors,  much  of  it  is  closed  for  repair,  as  it  is  now 
vacation.  This  library  is  immense,  contains  over  two 
hundred  and  forty  thousand  volumes,  with  a  great 
number  of  fine  portraits  and  busts  of  eminent  men  of 
England,  and  many  beautiful  models  of  the  most 
remarkable  Grecian  and  Roman  buildings. 

One  portrait  in  the  Library,  by  Vandyke,  is  valued  at 
four  thousand  guineas,  and  another  by  Sir  Joshua  Rey- 
nolds at  a  like  sum.  At  the  University  we  were  shown 
the  old  chapel  where  Charles  the  First  and  Charles  the 
Second  held  for  a  time  their  Parliaments,  and  where 
the  students  of  the  colleges  now  contend  before  the 
faculty  of  the  University  for  their  degrees.  Next  to 
this  is  the  room  in  which  the  parliament  of  the  Uni- 
versity assembles  to  make  the  general  laws,  to  which 
all  the  other  institutions  are  required  to  conform.  From 
this  we  went  into  a  small  room  adjoining,  where  the 
Vice-Chancellor  holds  his  court,  which  is  one  of  the 
recognized  courts  of  the  realm,  and  where  alone  those 
connected  with  the  University  can  be  tried  for  certain 
grades  of  crime,  or  sued  for  debt.  We  were  escorted 
by  an  old  man,  who  wished  to  earn  a  shilling,  through 
the  interior  of  one  of  the  colleges,  so  that  we  could  get 
an  insight  into  the  hidden  portion  of  one  of  these  old 
rookeries  of  learning.  ~We  were  shown  the  chapel,  the 
dining-hall,  and  the  rooms  of  a  fellow  of  the  college, 
which  are  three  in  number,  and  very  comfortable,  quite 
enough  so  for  hard  study,  to  which  these  gentlemen  are 
supposed  to  devote  their  time ;  but  our  informant  said 
some  studied  and  some  did  not.  All  these  colleges 
have  endowments  which  pay  to  the  fellows  a  certain 
sum  a  year,  and  they  are  boarded  at  a  very  cheap  rate, 
as  a  good  dinner  is  served  for   one  shilling  and  six 


//.'  0  M     A  B  E  OAD. 

pence— about  fifty  cents  of  our  money.  The  hall  oi 
the  college  in  which  the  meals  are  -  rved  is  very  com- 
fortable, h  is  long,  with  high  ceilings,  and  the  walls 
adorned  with  the  portraits  of  prominenl  persons  who 
had  been  connected  with  the  institution,  either  as  pro- 
t;.-.<, ,rs  or  students.  A  portrail  of  Blake,  Cromwell's 
great  Admiral,  was  pointed  ou1  as  one  very  much 
prized;  li>'  was  a  student  in  this  college.  J  asked 
the  janitor  if  some  "l  their  fellows  did  n<>t  continue 
there  all  their  lives  ?  Be  said,  yes,  some  did,  but  they 
all  left  it'  anything  better  offered,  ami  one  who  had 
been  there  a  greal  many  years  had  a  living  presented 
to  him  a  Bhorl  time  before,  which  would  enable  him  to 
many,  and  they  would  soon  get  rid  of  him.  From 
this,  I  inter,  they  desire  the  occupants  to  vacate  after 
they  have  been  there  for  awhile,  and  make  room  for 
those  who  are  in  Waiting  for  dead  men's  shoes.  A: 
we  were  through  with  this  hurried  inspection,  we 
Btopped  at  a  print  store,  and  bought  a  dozen  views  of 
the  town,  and  of  >ome  of  the  colleges  we  had  seen.  <  >n 
the  shelves  I  saw  Longfellow's  and  Bryant's  poems  for 
sale,  and  said  to  the  man  in  charge,  "I  notice  you  have 
several  American  authors  on  your  li-t.'"  II.'  replied, 
"Oh,  yes,  L  sell  a  great  many  American  books."  Ti  - 
I  was  glad  to  heai'.  in  the  heart  of  England, and  at  this 
seat  of  learning,  famous  the  world  over.  Our  cabman 
also  drove  us  to  Folly  Bridge,  which  spans  the  [sis, 
just  outside  of  the  town,  where  the  boats  of  the  <  bcford 
student-  were  moored,  the  accounts  of  which  we  read 
about  so  often  iii  their  yearly  contesl  with  the  Cam- 
bridge hoys.  In  front  of  our  hotel  is  erected,  in  the 
middle  of  the  street,  a  m<  uuinenl  to  the  memory  of 
Cranmer,  Ridley,  Latimer  and  one  other  that  1  cannot 
jusl  now  recall,  who  were  burned,  not  for  any  ill  th 
had    done,   but   for   the   faith    which   they   professed. 


gn,  HOME     LETTERS. 

This  monument  is  very  much  like  the  one  in  front  of 
our  hotel  at  Charing  Cross,  London.  I  asked  the  man 
who  showed  us  through  the  University,  whether  they 
were  not,  in  Oxford,  going  very  fast  back  towards 
Rome.  He  said,  indeed,  many  persons  thought  so,  but  he 
did  not  trouble  himself  much  about  such  matters.  We 
noticed,  as  we  drove  along,  a  strange  custom  which 
prevails  here  ;  an  undertaker  who  wore  a  high  crowned 
hat,  covered  entirely  with  white  satin  to  designate  his 
calling.  It  was  folded  in  heavy  plaits,  and  was  allowed 
to  fall  behind  two  feet  down  the  back.  This  was  in 
strong  contrast  with  what  we  saw  in  Amsterdam, 
where  the  person  who  officiates  at  funerals  is  clothed 
in  the  deepest  black,  with  an  enormous  chapeau,  like 
that  worn  by  a  military  officer,  from  which  hung  crape 
about  as  long  as  the  white  satin  streamers  we  saw  to- 
day. There  is  another  custom  prevalent  in  Holland 
which  I  believe  was  not  mentioned  in  our  letters  home. 
At  the  birth  of  a  child  a  ribbon  is  tied  at  the  front 
door,  and  the  sex  of  the  child  is  indicated  by  the  color 
of  the  band.  But  I  am  forgetting  my  promise  to  relate 
our  adventures  on  Tuesday  and  Wednesday,  yet  how 
shall  I  write  you  about  them,  when  so  much  is  to  be 
told,  and  there  is  so  little  time  for  the  work  ?  I  shall 
be  compelled  to  omit  much  that  I  would  like  to  say,  of 
what  we  saw  on  Tuesday  at  the  Crystal  Palace,  the 
Tower,  and  the  Templar's  Church  ;  and  on  Wednesday 
at  the  British  Museum.  To  begin  these  details  is  to 
start  a  letter  that  will  run  me  far  into  the  night ;  so  I 

will  take  M 's  advice,  and  stop  just  here,  but  if 

time  and  opportunity  are  found,  I  will  till  up  the  gap. 

Friday  morning,  quarter  'past  seven  o'clock.     Randolph 

Hotel,  Oxford.     M and  I  are  ready  for  breakfast, 

which  we  are  to  take  in  the  ladies'  coffee  room ;  but  it 


FB  o  M      A  B  E  <>  A  I) 


i-  qoI  ready,  though  promised  to  be  in  good  time  lasl 
eight.  We  are  to  Btarl  for  Leamington  ;  and  in  a  little 
while  will  be  on  •'in-  way.  The  morning  i-  clear  and 
bright,  but  the  air  is  very  chill,  and  would  be  con- 
sidered rathercold  at  home.  Breakfast  has  been  called. 
I  musl  hurry  or  we  shall  be  pressed  to  gel  to  the  depol 
in  time,  so  good-hye  to  all,  with  much  Love. 

J.   A. 


$jS  HOME     LETTERS, 


Saturday,  October  1. 

Dear  Friends  : — We  have  reached  Chester  in  safety, 
and  here  we  propose  to  remain  and  seek  repose  by  rest- 
ing at  the  very  comfortable  hotel  in  which  we  now  are 
over  the  Sunday.  Before  writing  anything  of  this 
city,  so  full  of  antiquities,  which  carry  you  back  to  the 
Middle  Ages,  and  even  far  into  the  more  distant  past, 
I  will  in  very  brief  terms,  refer  to  some  of  the  detail 
of  our  London  experience,  which  for  want  of  time  have 
not  yet  been  mentioned ;  I  therefore  go  back  to  Tues- 
day and'  "Wednesday,  the  first  and  second  days  of 
October. 

On  Tuesday  morning  we  started  to  visit  the  Crystal 
Palace  at  Sydenham,  when  we  reached  the  railway 
depot  at  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  London  bridge,  I 
found  I  had  left  behind  me,  locked  in  a  drawer  at  the 
hotel,  my  purse,  which  contained  my  ready  money. 
Fortunately  I  discovered  that  I  had  several  notes  of 
the  Bank  of  England,  in  an  envelop,  in  the  side  pocket 
of  my  coat ;  supposing  that  I  could  readily  obtain 
change  for  them,  I  entered  a  large  store  and  presented 
my  request  to  a  gentleman  in  charge.  To  my  surprise 
he  seemed  to  regard  me  with  suspicion  ;  first  hesitated, 
then  declined,  saying  to  me,  I  can't  do  it,  sir,  I  don't 
know  you,  you  are  a  stranger  to  me ;  and  then  added 
I  hope  you  will  not  be  offended,  your  note  is  all  right, 
but  we  never  make  change  for  a  note  unless  we  know 
all  about  it.  I  tried  at  two  other  places,  but  with  no 
better  success,  one  merchant  answering  my  application 
by  pretending  to  make  inquiry  of  a  person  in  the  store, 


/•'/.'  0  M     .1  B  E  0  .1  D. 

calling  "ut  in  ;i  loud  voice,  "  I  Bay,  Tom,  has  the  cashier 
come  in  yet?"  to  which  of  course  he  received  a  i  a 
tive  reply,  and  I  was  then  dismissed  with  :i  refusal  to 
accommodate  me.  I  had  no  alternative  excepl  to 
drive  to  the  Bank  of  England,  which  was  nol  as  far 
from  the  depol  as  Charing  Cross;  finding  ourseh 
at  the  dour  nf  the  Bank  before  the  hour  for  opening, 
we  drove  through  the  neighborhood  and  returned  ae 
soon  as  we  could  obtain  admittance,  which  was  nine 
i.", -lock.  1  presented  my  note,  was  requested  to  write 
my  name  and  address  upon  it,  which  I  did,  and  again 
requested  gold  for  my  paper  money;  the  reply  v.  - 
that  neither  of  the  cashiers  had  arrived.  I  waited 
five,  ten,  fifteen,  twenty  minutes,  and  no  cashier  made 
his  appearance;  I  then  asked  the  young  man  in  attend- 
ance if  this  was  i  heir  usual  way  of  I  ransad  ing  basin 
in  the  Bank  of  England,  and  whether  they  claimed  the 
right  to  dispose  of  my  time  to  suit  the  convenience  of 
the  subordinates  of  the  Bank?  In  reply  to  my  re- 
peated demand  to  have  my  note  redeemed,  he  gave  me 
the  answer,  which  I  had  received  to  my  first  applica- 
tion, saying,  that  "hedid  nol  know  me."  I  asked  him 
what  thai  had  to  do  with  it.  thai  "  I  did  not  want  him 
to  change  me  but  the  note."  and  then  took  out  my 
letter  of  credit  from  the  Eottingures  on  the  Barings, 
and  laid  it  before  him;  after  carefully  scrutinizing  it, 
he  remarked  that  it  was  too  had  to  keep  me  longer  in 
waiting,  and  gave  me  the  specie  for  which  I  had  been 
so  unnecessarily  detained. 

I  am  thus  pari  icular  in  menl  ioning  this  occurrence,  as 
it  illustrates  the  way  they  have  of  transacting  busin<  38 
here:  and  the  moral  of  it  all  is,  don't  go  abroad  with- 
out your  ready  money .  nor  expeel  to  gel  a  Bank  of 
England  note  changed  unless  you  take  a  voucher  with 
you.     The  desire  to  accommodate  a  stranger  Beems  to 


SIS  H  0  M  E     LETTERS. 


be  the  last  thought  which  enters  the  head  of  an  Eng- 
lishman upon  English  soil,  however  different  it  may 
be  with  them  elsewhere  ;  at  least  such  was  our  experi- 
ence, and  yet  it  may  only  be  that  we  were  unfortunate 
in  our  intercourse  with  the  people,  others  have  reported 
to  us  that  they  fared  much  better. 

After  we  were  through  with  this  unpleasant  deten- 
tion we  hurried  to  the  station,  and  soon  were  on  our 
way    to   Sydenham.      Half  an   hour's   travel   by   rail 

brought  us  to  the  entrance  of  the  Palace,  when  M 

and  I  commenced  a  hasty  survey  of  the  wonders  which 
we  expected  to  see.  The  grounds  in  front  of  the  struc- 
ture are  very  beautiful,  both  in  their  arrangement  and 
adornment.     Statuary  and  flowers  met  the  eye  in  every 

direction,  and   M remarked   "  this   is   more   like 

Paris  than  anything  we  have  yet  seen  in  England." 
The  rosary  in  particular  was  very  attractive,  and  was, 
besides,  something  entirely  new  to  us.  It  was  laid  out 
in  circular  forms,  the  centre  portion  adorned  with 
brilliant  flowers,  and  the  circumference  encircled  with 
a  succession  of  open  arches  over  which  delicate  vines 
were  trained.  The  palace  is  an  immense  construction, 
and  is  simply  a  frame  work  of  iron  covered  with  glass, 
both  at  the  sides  and  top,  and  the  great  wonder  is, 
how  sufficient  strength  can  be  given  to  it,  considering 
its  size,  to  keep  it  safe  against  wind  and  storms.  In 
the  central  avenue  there  is  a  large  fountain,  and  the 
line  of  glass  arching  over  it,  is  carried  along  to  its 
extreme  end  each  way.  The  building  is  in  itself 
worthy  of  a  visit,  but  it  is  by  no  means  the  wonder 
some  people  represent  it  to  be.  In  the  interior  there 
is  much  to  be  seen ;  but  a  great  deal  of  it  consists  of 
collections  of  ordinary  goods,  long  rows  of  statuary, 
much  of  it  plaster,  and  a  picture  gallery,  which,  if 
estimated  by  its  length,  may  be  considered  valuable. 


r  i;  OM     A  B  B  0  A  />.  ;<> 

The  building  ia  no1  half  filled;  and,  perhaps,  never 
will  be,  unless  governmenl  shall  make  it  exclusively 
their  own  property  and  converl  it  into  a  depositor}  of 
objects  of  national  interest,  instead  of  allowing  it  to  be 
used  for  a  monster  concert  saloon,  and  a  bazaar  for  the 

sale  of  1 ts,  and  babj  toys,  and  a  place  oi  refreshment, 

or  as  the  French  term  it  ••  restoration,"  for  much  of  the 
space  is  taken  up  with  restaurants  where  you  can  gel 
cold  tea,  as  M will  testify,  with  cold  accompani- 
ments, ;it  full  prices. 

We  returned  to  the  city,  and  wenl  immediately  to 
tli.'  Tower,  which  is  one  of  the  chief  attractions  of 
London;  not  so  much  for  what  it  is  at  the  present 
time,  as  for  what  it  has  been  in  the  past.  It  i-  now 
used  for  three  purposes;  a  depository  of  the  crown 
jewels,  which  arc  exhibited  at  sixpence  a  head,  in 
addition  to  the  cost  of  admission  to  the  building 
generally;  an  arsenal,  where  an  immense  number  of 
arm-,  of  various  kinds,  await  only  the  summons  to 
war.  foreign  or  domestic,  to  bring  them  into  action; 
and  as  a  general  curiosity  shop,  where  much  of  Eng- 
land's history  is  exhibited  to  the  eye-  of  the  present 
generation,  \^y  "  sample,  card  or  other  specimen."  The 
kings  of  many  generations  are  represented  as  they 
appeared  when  alive  panoplied  for  war  and  seated  on 
their  lifeless  steeds.  In  long  array  they  Btand  before 
yon,  encased  in  steel  and  armed  with  -word  and 
Bpear;  solemn  and  silent  now  arc  these  forms  of  the 
mighty  dead,  but  as  most  of  this  armor  is  doubtless 
genuine,  and  as  they  arc  made  to  cover  a  form  in 
appearance  like  that  which  once  had  life,  you  can 
almost  imagine  that  these  men,  about  whom  we  have 
read  so  often  and  so  much,  are  looking  down  upon  you 
with  their  sightless  eyes.  The  Tower  of  London,  more 
than  any  other  building  in  the  realm,  is  an  epitome  of 


350  HOME     LETTERS. 

English  history.  We  were  shown  the  room  in  which 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh  is  said  to  have  been  confined  for 
fourteen  years,  and  the  little  dark  cell  adjoining,  in 
which  he  slept,  and  here  our  sensitive  and  sympa- 
thizing friend  Daniel,  who  visited  this  place  a  few 
weeks  before  us,  wept  over  the  recollections  of 
Raleigh's  sad  years  of  incarceration  and  sutfering. 
Here  too  are  the  blocks  and  axes  of  execution,  on 
which  much  of  commentary  might  be  made  ;  but  I 
forbear,  partly  because  I  have  not  time  to  write  it,  but 
more  because  I  do  not  now  remember  the  names  of 
many  of  those  mentioned  by  our  guide  as  having  come 
to  a  speedy  end  upon  these  uncomfortable  resting 
places  for  the  neck,  beheaded  by  these  axes,  now 
shown  as  relics  of  a  barbarous  ao;e  to  curious  crowds. 
In  the  centre  of  the  court  yard  is  the  place  where  Mary 
Queen  of  Scots  and  Anne  Boleyn  were  executed. 
There  is  one  small  room,  over  which  an  invalid  one- 
armed  soldier  keeps  guard,  it  is  not  more  than  twelve 
by  fourteen  feet,  which  has  held  many  illustrious 
prisoners,  both  men  and  women,  who  went  from  this 
their  place  of  solitary  confinement  to  their  death. 
Cranmer,  Ridley,  and  Latimer  saw  the  last  of  life  in 
this  small  apartment.  Kings  and  Queens  have  written 
or  carved  upon  the  stone  walls  of  this  little  room,  the 
cruel  records  which  still  remain  of  the  shame  of  Eng- 
land in  her  bloody  days.  We  had  not  time  to  pause 
long  in  this  interesting  place,  and  so  we  bought  from 
the  sentinel,  for  sixpence,  the  story  of  it  all  in  print. 
On  our  way  to  the  hotel  we  stopped  at  the  Templar's 
Church,  and  finding  it  open  made  a  satisfactory  exami- 
nation of  the  building ;  part  of  it  was  erected  in  the 
eleventh  and  part  in  the  twelfth  century.  In  the  older 
portion,  there  are  three  or  four  recumbent  knights  in 
marble,  with  their  armor  on,  ecpiipped  as  they  went 


FR  0  V     A  /;  /;  o  A  D .  SSI 

forth  to  battle;  among  those  represented  by  th< 
silenl  monuments,  are  the  Earl  of  Essex,  Strong  Bow, 
and  hie  two  sons;  as  these  effigies  of  them  are  Been 
now,  in  the  obscure  lighl  of  this  ancienl  church,  you 
can  very  well  imagine,  thai  these  men,  who  thoughl  to 
earn  salvation  by  fighting  for  it,  have  jusl  returned 
from  their  long  journey  to  the  Holy  Land,  and  from 
the  battles  of  the  Crusades,  and  laid  them  down  with 
armor  and  lid  met  on,  to  rest;  and  there,  "  little  they'll 
n  ek,  it'  they  arc  allowed  to  sleep  in  the  church  where 
the  Templars  have  laid  them."  It  is  a  place  of  great 
interest,  and  I  fed  much  gratified  thai  we  had  been 
able  to  sec  it.  The  day  was  a  fatiguing  one,  bul  as  I 
expected  it  was  to  be  our  lasl  in  London,  I  took  a  cab, 
and  drove  to  the  Legation,  to  say  good-bye  to  Mr. 
Moran,  and  thank  him  for  his  attention  to  us,  and 
give  directions  about  letters  that  mighl  come  to  hand 
after  my  departure. 

On   Wednesday,   M and  I  made  a   visil   to 

British  Museum  and  saw  it  in  a  hurried  way.  I 
remember  Mr.  Barnea  remarking  to  me,  thai  he  would 
like  to  spend  an  entire  month  there,  and  this  I  coul 
readily  understand,  after  having  passed  through  it  and 
looked  over  the  extensive  collection  of  books  contained 
in  the  four  immense  library  rooms,  books  donated  by 
individuals  to  the  museum.  Here  too  are  curious  and 
interesting  letters  written  by  great  men,  great  in  every 
sense  in  which  the  term  is  applied ;  in  station  and  in 
power;  in  literature  and  art;  and  -Teat  for  the  work 
they  have  done  as  reformers,  both  in  and  out  of  the 
Church.  There  are  many  curious  specimens  of  the 
earliest  attempts  at  printing,  and  rare  old  manuscripts 
that  are  worth  their  weight  in  gold,  which  to  a  student 
and  book-maker  must  offer  irresistibL  attractions.  In- 
stead of  staying  a  month,  I  rather  think   \       a  would 


S52  HOME     LETTERS. 

not  satisfy  Mr.  Barnes.  The  apartment  for  reading  and 
study  is  circular  in  form,  with  a  very  soft  and  pleasant 
light  admitted  through  a  dome  from  above ;  and  is  ar- 
ranged with  every  convenience  for  those  who  wish  to 
make  use  of  the  treasures  of  learning  which  its  shelves 
contain,  when  we  were  there  numbers  were  engaged  in 
their  literary  investigations,  while  silence  was  observed 
by  all.  The  books  are  free  to  every  one  who  desires  to 
make  use  of  them ;  while  attendants  wait  to  furnish 
any  volume  that  may  be  needed.  Of  the  vast  collection 
of  Egyptian  antiquities,  we  took  no  more  than  a  passing 
notice ;  we  had  seen  on  our  first  visit  to  Paris,  in  the 
Palace  of  the  Louvre,  enough  to  satisfy  us  for  the  rest 
of  our  lives,  and,  after  a  cursory  examination,  we  left 
and  resumed  our  occupation  of  shopping  again,  trying 
to  find  something  for  each  of  our  friends,  as  tokens  of 
remembrance.  Our  experience  is,  that  with  a  very  few 
exceptions,  most  things  are  as  high  at  retail  prices  as 
they  are  with  us,  and  as  a  general  rule  higher  than  in 
Paris,  though  the  London  merchants  insist  that  they 
sell  much  below  Paris  prices.  Of  Thursday,  and  our 
visit  to  Oxford,  I  have  already  written  home,  and  there 
remains  yet  to  be  accounted  for,  Friday  and  Saturday,  the 
4th  and  5th  days  of  October,  and  then  the  record  of  our 
Journal  Letters  will  be  made  up.  Friday  morning  at 
twenty-five  minutes  after  eight  we  left  our  very  comfort- 
able quarters  at  the  Randolph  Hotel  in  Oxford  and 
started  for  Stratford,  but  we  were  a  little  unsettled  as 
to  whether  we  would  stop  at  all  the  points  between  Ox- 
ford and  Chester,  or  abandon  some  of  them,  and  try 
and  reach  Scotland.  On  our  way  we  passed  through 
Leamington,  saw  Warwick  Castle  in  the  distance,  and 
changed  cars  at  Haddon ;  here  we  found  ourselves  in 
company,  in  the  same  car,  with  Dr.  and  Airs.  Woods, 
from  Massachusetts,  who  had  made  the  tour  of  Europe, 


Shakespeare's  House,  Stratford  on  Avon . 


SIGHT-SEEING    IN    ENGLAND. 

-"That  Heffigy  of  them  two  halabaster  Habbots  in  'elmets  hare  from  a  tomb  in  the  Habby  of  St.  Holive's,  founded  by  'Enery  the  fust  T 
leighty-seven.  Their  mortal  remains  was  haxiimed  by  horder  hof  the  R'yal  Hantiquarian  Serciety  seventin  heighty-three ;  their  Bodies  was 
d  henwelhiped  in  Jules  I"  [Proccssiot 


/■•/;  0  M     A  B  /.'  OA  D. 

taking  in  all  that  we  had   passed   over,  and   [taly  and 

Germany   beside.     Mrs.   \V ,  who   ie  a  bright   and 

intelligent  lady,  ie  much  younger  than  her  husband, 
and  has  the  accent  of  a  genuine  New  Englander.  We 
soon  became  acquainted,  and  while  in  conversation 
the  Doctor  Bpoke  of  having  resided  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands;  he  knew  the  Rev.  Mr.  Taylor,  who  staid  with 
as  during  the  Session  of  the  American  Board,  some 
years  since;  and  who  you  will  remember  was  for  some 
time  stationed  at  Honolulu.  Ee  spoke  in  very  high 
terms  of  him,  which  \  I  with  our  own  estimate  of 
our  friend.  Ee  knew  Dr.  Alexander,  who  married  a 
Miss  McKinney  of  Barrisburg,  and  afterwards  went  as 
;i  missionary  to  the  Sandwich   [slands.     1  supposed  Dr. 

W to  be  a  clergyman,  and   was  only  undeceived 

later  in   the  day,  when  I  learned  that  be  was  a  docl 
of  medicine,   that   he  had  gone  to   Eonolulu  when  a 
young  man,  became  a  sugar  planter;  and  La  I  surmise 
wealthy. 

We  travelled  together  to  Stratford,  which  we  reached 
a  little  after  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning;  leaving  our 
baggage  in  the  office  at  the  station,  we  took  an  omnibus 
for  the  town.  At  the  Shakspeare  Eouse,  the  house  in 
which  Shakspeare  was  born,  we  alighted ;  and  paying 
sixpence  a  head,  were  shown  through  the  premises  by 
an  old  lady  in  charge.  It  isa  two-story  frame  building, 
plastered  between  the  studding  of  the  frame.  There 
arc  three  room-  on  the  lower  floor,  which  are  paved 
with  flag  stones.  In  the  kitchen  there  is  a  large  open 
fire  place  with  r<  cesses  in  the  stone  jambs  of  the  chim- 
ney with  space  on  each  side  torn  chair;  this  arrang 
nieiit  is  common  in  the  very  <>ld  dwellings  of  this 
country:  cosey  nooks  they  were,  in  which  the  old 
people  would  sit  and  smoke  their  pipes,  and  chat  the 
long  days  and  evenings  of  old  age  away.     We  went  no 


SBIf,  HOME     LETTERS. 

to  the  second  floor,  and  in  the  front  room  of  this  story 
William  Shakspeare  was  born.  The  walls  of  this  house, 
even  the  ceiling  of  the  upper  story,  which  is  very  low, 
are  almost  covered  with  the  names  of  visitors,  and  it  is 
now  forbidden  that  any  more  writing  of  this  kind  shall 
be  done.  The  grounds  attached  to  the  house,  which 
are  quite  extensive,  are  kept  in  good  order,  and  planted 
with  flowers  and  shrubbery.     The  old  lady  in  charge 

gave  M a  leaf  or  two  which  she  pulled  for  her,  no 

one  being  allowed  to  appropriate  anything  to  them- 
selves, but  all  who  desire  it,  have  a  memento  given  to 
them.  When  we  left  the  house  we  walked  to  the  grave 
of  the  poet,  which  we  were  told  was  but  a  short  distance 
off,  but  we  found  it  to  be  nearly  a  mile  away.  As  we 
were  going  in  the  direction  pointed  out  to  us,  a  gentle- 
man on  horseback,  who  was  riding  slowly  down  the 
street,  accosted  us  by  saying,  that  he  supposed  we  were 
Americans,  and  were  looking  for  the  grave  of  Shaks- 
peare ?  and  when  we  replied  in  the  affirmative,  he  said, 
"  I  am  an  American  by  adoption,  and  formerly  lived  in 
Illinois,  now  more  than  fifty  years  ago."  His  name 
was  Flower,  and  he  is  evidently  a  man  of  wealth,  a 
gentleman  in  manner  and  appearance.  He  resides  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  town,  and  invited  us  to  visit 
him,  saying  that  he  would  be  glad  to  show  us  a  genuine 
English  country  home.  He  keeps  an  open  house  and 
an  open  heart  for  Americans,  and  told  us  he  had  the 
pleasure  of  entertaining  over  seventy  of  our  countrymen 
this  summer;  and  that  Mr.  Baird  of  Philadelphia  had 
just  left,  having  made  him  a  visit  of  over  a  week. 

On  our  way  to  the  church  we  stopped  at  the  town 
hall  to  see  a  fine  portrait  of  Shakspeare,  and  another  of 
Garrick,  by  Vandyke.  Stratford  is  a  much  larger  place 
than  I  supposed  it  to  be,  the  streets  are  wide  and  clean 
and  many  of  the  houses  have  an  exceedingly  cosey  and 


FR  0  v    .1  B  R  0  A  i> .  :;, 

comfortable  appearai The  church  we  were  -■  :i j-  li- 

ing  for  is  an  old  building  Burrounded  by  quite  an  • 
tensive  yard,  filled  with  the  graves  of  pasl  generatioi 
a  row  of  large  trees  on  either  side  lined  the  path  which 

led  from  the  gate  to  the  d •.  and  al  the  farther  end  of 

the  church,  Shakspeare,  with  his  wife,  daughter  and 
son-in-law,  are  buried.  In  the  wall  overhead  is  a  stone 
bust  of  tli<'  poet,  which  looks  like  the  figure-head  of  a 
canal  boat,  and  is  a  disgrace  to  the  town  of  Stratford, 
to  England  and  to  the  civilization  of  the  nineteenth 
century.  There  is  do  Buitable  monument  of  any  kind 
to  mark  the  Bpot  where  his  remains  were  di  I, but 

a  plain  Blab  of  dark  Btone  has  engraved  upon  it  the 
poet's  name,  and  a  verse  of  wretched  doggerel  rhyme. 
The  lines  invoke  a  blessing  on  all  who  allow  the  body 
to  resl  in  peace,  and  a  curse  upon  whoever  disturbs  his 
bones,  It  has  been  suggested  thai  the  dusl  of  Shaks- 
peare should  be  placed  in  Westminster  Abbey,  but  this 
has  been  bo  stoutly  i  I,  thai  the  projed  has  been 

abandoned.  The  sexton  said,  if  ir  was  at1  mpted? 
it  would  stir  up  a  rebellion  in  the  town  of  Stratford. 
Amir  Eathaway's  cottage  we  did  no1  see;  it  was  about 
a  milf  distant,  and  as  we  had  nol  time  to  obtain  lunch, 
reach  the  depot  by  half-pasl  one,  and  make  a  journey 
to  the  cottage  beside,  we  went  to  the  Red  Lion  Hotel, 
or  as  the  proprietor  calls  it,  the  Washington  [rving 
Hotel,  where  we  obtained  a  very  comfortable  meal- 
Washington  [rving  spenl  some  months  in  this  hoi 
when  making  a  visit  to  Stratford,  ami  refers  in  his 
Bketch  book  to  the  little  parlor  <>n  the  ground  floor; 
this  is  taken  advantage  of  by  tie-  landlord,  to  make 
favor  with  Americans;  the  room  is  labelled,  "  Wash- 
ington Erving's  parlor.'*  The  house  is  a  very  comfort- 
able English  inn,  and  one  mighl  go  farther  and  tare 
much  worse  than  at  the  Red  Lion.     We  reached  the 


356  HOME     LETTERS. 

station  in  time  for  the  train,  took  passage  for  Chester, 
the  route,  very  much  to  our  surprise,  going  round  in  its 
way  to  Manchester  and  Liverpool,  as  I  thought  we 
were  on  the  North  Western,  instead  of  the  Great 
Western  line,  this  determined  us  to  rest  at  Chester 
for  the  night,  see  it  on  Saturday  morning,  and  then 
try  to  reach  Edinburgh  as  soon  as  possible  thereafter. 
Seven  p.  m.  brought  us  to  the  Queen's  Hotel,  near  the 
depot,  and  a  comfortable  place  we  have  found  it  to  be  ; 
the  coffee-rooms  are  well  furnished,  from  which  we 
look  upon  an  inviting  yard,  with  its  green  lawn  and 
flowers  ;  so  attractive  is  it  to  us  that  our  decision  has 
been  to  remain  and  spend  the  Sabbath  here,  rather  than 
advance  our  journey  to  Liverpool,  having  now  decided 
that  Edinburgh  must  be  abandoned.  So  good-bye  to 
John  Brown,  John  Knox's  house  and  grave,  the  cathe- 
dral and  Abbotsford.  We  have  seen  so  much,  that 
we  can  resign  this  gratification,  though  it  gives  us  a 
twinge  of  disappointment.  The  journey  to  Edinburgh 
would  consume  our  time  until  ten  minutes  past  nine  on 
Saturday  night,  and  Sunday,  as  it  always  is,  would 
be  lost  to  us  for  si«;ht-seeino\  We  have  not  thus  far 
broken  the  command  as  to  the  observance  of  the  Lord's 
day,  and  will  not  do  it  now.  This  would  give  only 
Monday  morning  for  Edinburgh,  as  we  ought  to  be  in 
Liverpool  all  of  Tuesday,  to  see  about  our  baggage,  and 
not  be  too  much  hurried  in  getting  ready  to  sail.  If 
by  accident  or  sickness  we  should  be  delayed  one  day 
so  faraway  as  Edinburgh,  we  would  lose  our  passage, 
and,  therefore,  decide  that  it  is  best  not  to  go  farther 
north  this  time,  but  leave  something  for  the  future. 

We  have  seen  Chester,  Old  Chester  as  it  is  often 
called,  and  have  to  confess  to  something  akin  to  disap- 
pointment. Not  that  there  is  not  much  to  interest  and 
attract  a  visitor  from  a  country  like  ours,  where  every 


FB  0  M     A  B  /.'  0  A  D. 

thing  is  new,  bul  our  expectations  were  greatly  excited 
by  wli.it  we  had  heard  of  this  old  camp  of  the  Romans, 
where  nearly  ten  centuries  ago  their  conquering  legions 
rested  behind  these  walls  of  defence,  which  in  substai 
\< ■!  remain,  though  doubtless  changed  by  the  genera- 
tions who  have  occupied  Chester  since  Julius  Caesar 
abandoned  Britain  for  his  native  home.  These  walls 
are  still  in  good  preservation,  and  are  used  as  a  prome- 
nade by  the  inhabitants  of  "t  1 1 « •  city,  and  with  their 
round  towers  which  indicate  their  Roman  origin,  are 
worthy  objects  of  curious  interest.     <  >ne  of  th<  uc- 

tures  is  called  King  Charles' Tower,  and  bears  an  in- 
scription in  Btone,  which  commemorates  the  fad  that, 
from  this  Tower  the  King  witnessed  the  defeat  of  his 
army  in  1645. 

In  company  with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  W we  took  car- 
riage and  started  on  a  tour  of  examination,  first  visit- 
ing the  Cathedral,  which  though  by  no  means  among 
the  finesl  in  England,  is  of  no  small  pretension,  both  as 
to  size  and  architectural  effect.  Ir  is  built  of  soft  red 
sand  -tone,  and  bears  the  mark-  of  decay,  while  the 
grounds  about  it  are  in  a  condition  of  sad  neglect. 
This  Cathedral  was  the  church  connected  with  the 
A-bbey  of  St.  Werburgh,  which  Eenry  the  YI1I.  d 
solved  in  1 541,  and  though  the  Abbey  is  in  compL 
ruin,  the  church  has,  in  its  interior  at  least,  been  kept 
in  good  repair.  The  remains  of  the  walls  and  cloisters 
-till  remain,  but  in  the  centre  of  what  was  once  the 
A M ny.  large  trees  are  growing  now. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  Cathedral  we  were  at  once 
taken  in  charge  by  a  verger,  who  was  determined  t<> 
earn  his  shillings,  by  at  one,'  commencing  In-  daily 
recital  ot  the  wonders  of  the  place,  and  going  in  ad- 
vance showed  us  the  cloisters,  chapter  house,  the  nave 

of  the  church,  the  side  chapel-  and  choir.      The  chap' 


358  HOME     LETTERS. 

house,  where  the  canons  hold  their  meetings,  is  a  large 
and  attractive  room,  with  immense  gothic  windows  of 
beautiful  stained  or  painted  glass,  and  has  a  curious 
arrangement  for  a  passage  way  all  around  the  room, 
which  is  entered  through  a  secret  sliding  oak  panel, 
and  spiral  stone  stairs  cut  in  the  solid  wall.  The  nave 
of  the  church  is  about  seventy  feet  high,  the  roof  of 
which  is  supported  by  immense  stone  columns,  and 
though  it  is  the  largest  part  of  the  church  is  not  now 
used  for  worship,  the  choir  alone  is  occupied  in  this 
way  ;  services  are  held  by  the  canons  morning  and 
evening  of  each  day. 

The  guide  pointed  out  to  us  an  ingenious  contrivance 
in  this  part  of  the  building  to  keep  the  monks  of  for- 
mer days  awake  during  the  recital  of  their  prayers, 
which  lasted  four  hours  each  day.  If  sleep  overtook 
them,  they  slipped  upon  an  inclined  seat  which  pitched 
forward,  and  the  monk  with  it,  his  face  striking,  with 
no  gentle  tap,  the  top  of  the  pew  before  him.  A  lesson 
once  learned  in  this  way  by  those  jolly  old  friars,  was 
not  likely  soon  to  be  forgotten. 

Another  object  of  interest  to  me  was  a  small  dingy 
room  in  which  the  ecclesiastical  court  was  held.  It 
contained  a  raised  platform  for  the  Ecclesiastic,  who 
constituted  both  judge  and  jury ;  a  small  dock  for  the 
accused,  and  space  for  about  a  dozen  persons  beside.  It 
is  claimed  that  from  this  little  judgment  room,  men 
and  women  went  forth  to  die  at  the  stake  in  Chester. 

I  should  not  forget  to  say  that  this  church  is  rich  in 
its  carvings  in  oak,  which  though  old  appear  to  have 
been  recently  executed,  representing  the  heads  of 
saints,  angels  and  other  devices.  It  has  also  a  throne 
and  canopy  of  stone  richly  carved ;  mosaic  work  of 
great  value,  and  windows  of  exquisite  beauty. 

It  seemed  a  matter  of  regret  that  so  little  of  this  large 


/•  H  0  M     .1  /.'  8  OAD. 

structure  is  used  for  worship,  but  I  suppose  the  in- 
habitants of  Chester  fi iv  of  that  which  strangers  travel 
so  far  to  Bee,  and  have  lost  in  ;i  great  degree  their 
veneration  for  these  remains  of  past  ages  ;  certain  it 
they  are  qow  building  a  large  and  expensive  church  of 
sandstone,  while  the  Cathedra]  is  abandoned  to  com- 
parative vacancy.  There  is  no  telling  to  what  use  it 
may  ye1  be  put.  In  Dijon  I  saw  a  fine  Btone  church, 
used  to  store  hay  and  straw:  the  revolutionists  occu- 
pied this  church  in  1 7'.'  t  as  a  stable,  as  they  did  also  the 
church  of  Notre  Dame  in  Paris.  It  looks  as  if  the  peo^ 
pie  of  Chester  might  reach  a  like  practical  resull  some 
day,  with  their  venerable  but  neglected  temple. 

The  (»1<1  church  of  St.  John  with  the  ruina  behind  it, 
repaid  us  for  the  time  given  to  it.  It  is  a  Norman 
church,  built  in  the  eleventh  century  and  is  among  the 
old  churches  in  good  repair  in  England. 

Our  drive  took  us  for  some  distance  along  the  quiet 
banks  of  the  Dee,  which  runs  close  to  the  walls;  here 
we  paused  to  examine  the  old  water  tower,  which  was 
built  five  hundred  years  ago,  to  repel  the  invasions  of 
the  Welsh  and  the  museum  of  the  town,  which  this 
tower  contains.  We  found  the  museum  to  consist 
of  the  odds  and  ends  of  everything,  ancient  and 
modern,  kept  in  neglected  and  dirty  confusion.  The 
custodian  was  a  man  of  about  seventy,  who  occupied 
the  room  on  the  second  floor,  to  which  we  ascended  by 
narrow  winding  stone  stairs,  and  when  we  entered  he 
was  bending  over  a  little  fire,  which  he  had  lighted 
upon  an  open  hearth.  Ee  wore  large  glasses  and 
dilapidated  clothe-,    and    offered     us    for    sale    a    little 

microscope  of  his  own  manufacture  at  three  pen     . 

As  we  drove  along  the  stre  t  we  were  shown  an  old 
house,  which   hoiv  the  inscription.  "God's  provide: 
is  mine  inheritance,"  placed  in  large  letters  upon  ir- 


360  HOME     LETTERS. 

front ;  and  the  tradition  is  that  this  is  the  only  house 
which  escaped  the  plague,  when  it  desolated  Chester 
many  years  ago.  The  owner  took  this  method  of 
making  his  public  acknowledgment  of  the  power 
which  spared  his  home  from  the  pestilence ;  and  the 
passer-by  can  see  clearly  the  inscription  which  yet  re- 
mains distinct  upon  the  building.  On  our  return  to 
the  hotel  we  stopped  to  examine  a  Roman  bath  con- 
structed in  the  cellar  of  a  house  centuries  ago.  The 
tubs  were  sunk  in  the  stone  floor,  and  close  to  them  is 
an  oven,  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  the  top  being  sup- 
ported by  columns  of  stone.  Taking  our  day's  experi- 
ence all  together  we  were  interested  and  perhaps  some, 
what  saddened.  The  actors  in  the  busy  scenes  of  the 
past,  composed  in  turn  of  conquering  race  of  Saxon, 
Dane  and  Roman,  seemed  to  pass  before  us  like 
shadows  on  the  sky ;  but  the  material  world  about  us 
adorned  with  its  beautiful  Autumnal  robes  remains 
unchanged.  "  Yet  luxuriantly  as  ever  the  lordly  trees 
expand  their  branches  ;  fresh  as  ever  the  vine  hangs  its 
green  ringlets  along  the  solid  wall,  and  sweetly  sleeps 
the  sunlight  of  the  Autumn  day  upon  its  towers  "  in 
Chester. 

Tuesday,  October  S.     Liverpool,  Queen's  Hotel,  9  p.  m. 
The  hour  has  almost  arrived  for  our  departure  home, 

M and  I  are  making  preparation  as  fast  as  we  can 

to  complete  our  tinal  arrangements,  some  of  which,  not- 
withstanding our  exertions,  are  crowded  into  the  clos- 
ing moments  of  our  stay.  We  arrived  in  Liverpool  at 
ten  o'clock  this  morning,  having  passed  our  time  very 
comfortably  at  Chester,  with  the  exception  of  Sabbath- 
day  which  was  for  M a  day  of  suffering,  the  old 

torment,  at  the  last  moment  determined  to  put  on  the 
screws  and  make  the  nerves  play  their  mad  and  agoni- 


/■  B  0  M     .1  /-'  R  0  A  l>. 

zing   dance,  before  a   final  good-bye  could  I"-  said 
these  foreign  lands.     Monday,  neuralgia  still   lingered, 
bul    M     — did  not  suffer  much,  yet  enough  to  render 
it    advisable    no1   to  venture  out,  bo    1    persuaded    ber 

to    remain    quiet,    while    I    went     into     Liver] I 

look    after    the    trunks,    where    I    found    :ill    in    Bafe 
condition;   then   wenl    on    board    our   good    ship,   the 
"City    of    London,"    which    broughl    us    in    Bafety 
these  shores,  and  to  which  we  intend  intrusting  our- 
selves    again     for    the    voyage     home.       Everythi 
looked  stanch  and  safe  aboul   the  ship,  saw  a  number 
of  familiar   faces,  and  among  them  little  Tommy,  the 
Captain's  cabin-boy,  with  whom  we  were  much  pleased 
on  our  outward  passage,  and    Donald,  the  steward,  but 
no1   Tabby  Jones,  for  he  was  ashore;  the  officers,  and 
a  number  of  the  sailors,  seemed  very  glad 
I  spoke   pleasantly  to  them  all  aboul   our  going  back 
under  their  care.     Captain  Brooks  was  evidently  grati- 
fied at  the  confidence  reposed  in  him  and  hi-  vessel.     1 
reached  Chester  again  on  my  return  aboul  five  o'clock, 

found  M had  ordered  our  dinner,  as  her  pain  had 

left  her;  and  as  soon  as  the  summons  came  we  went 
down  to  the  e-room  and  both  made  a  comfortable 

meal,  the  first   which  M has  been  able  t<>  enjoy 

since  Saturdav  night.  We  ordered  a  fire  made  in  the 
open  grate  in  our  room  and  passed  a  pleasant  and 
happy  evening  together;  the  last  probably  we  .-hall 
ever  pass  in  Chester.  To-day — after  we  had  had  our 
baggage  sent  to  the  Queen's  Hotel,  (a  house  to 
avoided  by  all  who  desire  to  run  no  risk  of  sticking 
fasl  in  Liverpool,)  we  went  out  to  d<.  some  shoppii  _. 
and  were  soon  greeted  by  a  lady's  voice  crying  out,  as 
we  looked  in  at  a  fancy  store,  " Why,  are  youhere?': 
On  turning  we  saw  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Woods,  whom  we  had 
left  a1  Chester  on  Friday  at  one  o'clock,  and  when  we 

'J4 


§62  ROME     LETTERS. 

parted  we  both  exchanged  cards  with  mutual  invita- 
tions to  call  on  each  other,  when  we  had  reached  our 
respective  homes.  The  doctor  kindly  remarked  at  our 
separation  that  they  esteemed  it  one  of  the  pleasant 
incidents  of  their  journey,  to  have  made  our  acquaint- 
ance. I  ought  to  have  mentioned  an  incident  they 
narrated  to  us  about  their  visit  to  Kenilworth  Castle. 
They  had  as  a  travelling  companion  to  Kenilworth,  an 
old  gentleman  of  sixty,  who  was  very  agreeable  and 
chatty  ;  and  when  they  left  the  car,  he  said  pleasantly, 
take  down  your  traps  and  go  up  to  the  Castle,  my 
servant  will  show  you  through.  He  had  previously 
remarked  Kenilworth  is  now  the  property  of  Lord 
Clarendon,  and  yet  neither  the  doctor,  who  is  a  man 
of  travel  and  experience,  and  has  seen  a  good  deal  of 
the  world,  nor  his  young  wife,  who,  as  we  Americans 
say,  is  "  as  sharp  as  a  steel  trap,"  took  the  hint,  or  even 
guessed  that  it  was  none  other  than  Lord  Clarendon 
himself,  as  they  were  afterwards  informed.  Lords  and 
ladies  go  about  like  other  folks,  in  these  days  of  in- 
creasing democracy,  formerly  they  were  regarded  by 
the  common  people  as  a  race  of  beings  superior  to  them- 
selves, but  this  is  a  progressive  age,  railroads,  schools  and 
the  printing  press  have  made  marvellous  changes  in 
these  later  times.  While  we  were  at  Chester,  I  found 
by  the  registry  that  Lord  Farnham  and  Lady,  and  Sir 
Ralph  Howard,  were  at  the  same  hotel  with  us ;  but 
no  one  was  the  wiser  of  it,  neither  could  they  be  dis- 
tinguished from  the  other  guests  of  the  house. 

Thursday  noon.  On  board  the  steamer  City  of  Lon- 
don. We  are  nearing  Queenstown,  and  are  fairly 
embarked  on  old  ocean's  waves,  and  hope  to  have  a 
pleasant  experience  to  the  end  of  our  voyage,  and  surely 
will,  after  this  long  continued  rain,  if  the  adage  holds 


FB  0  M     A  /:  E  OAD. 

true  in  our  case,  that  an  anpleasanl   beginning  mak 
the  end  a  cheerful  one.     The  captain  claimed  !  en- 

ing   thai    such    would    be    our    experiei Tuesday 

morning  we  went  oul  to  complete,  if  possible,  our  shop- 
ping, some  of  which  yet  remained  to  be  done,  It  had 
rained  during  the  nighl  and  was  raining  when  we 
lefl  the  hotel,  everything  had  an  exceedingly  dark  and 
cheerless  look  oul  of  doors;  but  as  we  had  uo  choice  in 
selecting  the  weather,  we  had  to  go  through  with  it, 
and  with  much  less  of  discomfort  than  we  had  antici- 
pated, we  completed  our  work  and  made  our  way  ba< 
to  the  hotel,  to  finish  the  closing  preparations  for  the 
steamer.  We  lefl  the  Queen's  about  half  past  one 
o'clock,  and  drove  around  the  city  for  some  time,  as  we 
were  an  hour  and  a  half  in  advance  of  the  time  of 
starting.  It  rained  hard  all  the  while,  and  when  we 
reached  the  wharf  we  found  a  large  number  of  the 
passengers  with  their  luggage,  waiting  in  an  exposed 
shed,  for  the  tug  to  come  from  the  ship  and  take  them 
on  board.  On  making  inquiry  I  found  there  would  be 
but  one  passage  of  the  tug  to  the  steamer,  which  was 
anchored  far  out  in  the  river,  and  that  we  would  ha 
to  wait  in  our  unpleasant  quarters  for  a  considerable 
time;  so  making  the  best  of  our  situation,  we  con- 
cluded that  as  we  could  neither  make  the  tug  come 
to  as,  aor  we  go  to  it,  it  was  better  to  summon  what- 
ever of  patience  we  possessed, and  await  the  movemei  fcs 
of  those  upon  whom  we  were  just  then  dependent. 
This  afforded  an  opportunity  for  an  examination  of  the 
persons  who  were  to  be  our  companions  on  Bhipboard  : 
and  the  inspection,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  did  not  raise  any 
very  exalted  expectation  of  congenial  fellowship. 
Most  of  the  passengers  seemed  very  plain  in  person  as 
well  as  in  dress,  some  even  rough,  very  few  bore  the 
marks  of  refinement  or  cultivation.     Looking  over  this 


36/+ 


HOME     LET1ERS. 


collection  as  I  saw  them  standing  on  the  wharf,  and 
afterwards  on  the  boat,  I  could  not  select  a  dozen  per- 
sons with  whom  I  thought  I  would  like  a  very  close 
association,  and  this  opinion  was  confirmed  by  subse- 
quent experience.  At  half  past  two  o'clock,  at  which 
time  the  vessel  was  appointed  to  sail,  we  were  taken  on 
board  the  tug  which  was  to  convey  us  to  the  "  City  of 
London."  J.  A. 


/■•/;  0  M     .1  B  R  0  A  D. 


Surg\  on's  Stat<  -Room, 
§  iturday,  October  19,  1867. 

J ,  after  securing  me  a   seal    in  the  close   little 

cabin  below  deck,  went  above,  to  keep  watch  over  our 
luggage;  fifteen  minutes  broughl  us  along  side  of  the 
steamer  and  to  the  better  protection  and  shelter  of  the 
ship's  saloon.  Bui  even  there  the  atmosphere  was 
chill  and  penetrating,  everything  moisl  and  clammy  to 
the  touch.  Yet,  as  it  was  to  be  our  home  for  the  eleven 
incoming  days,  we  were  uo1  disposed  to  exaggerah  the 
annoyances,  bu1  to  make  the  besl  of  the  unavoidable 
uecessity  ;  as  in  our  state  room  we  could  at  leasl 
avoid  the  dampness  and  be  comfortable.  Donald,  the 
obliging  steward,  in  anticipation  of  our  coming,  had 
removed  two  of  the  four  berths  and  transformed  the 
lower  our  into  a  Bofa,  making  the  room  appear  quite 
large.  Our  evening  meal  at  six  o'clock  was  much 
more  substantial  than  is  usually  provided  at  that 
hour:  a  dinner  and  supper  combined,  in  thoughtful 
consideration  for  those  who  had  tasted  since  breakfasl 
hour. 

Thursday  about  noon  we  made  Qiieenstown,  and 
there  the  Bteerage  passengers  were  taken  on  hoard. 
Such  a  scene  of  lawless  discord  and  contention,  I 
never  witnessed;  and  seeing  it  once  I  should  hope 
never  to  see  it  again,  unless  I  had  the  powerand  author- 
ity to  bring  order  and  system  out  of  strife  ami  confu- 
sion. We  were  surprised  that  Captain  Brooks,  would 
lor  a  moment  tolerate  such  a  condition  of  affairs,  and 
not  command  obedience  to  some  just  regulati 
in   regard   to   the   distribution   of    the    bagg    a      and 


366  HOME     LETTERS. 

goods  of  these  poor  people,  many  of  them  respectable, 
if  poor. 

But  I  must  explain  and  justify  my  indignation. 
These  men,  women,  and  children,  of  all  ages,  from  five 
to  seventy,  were  huddled  together  en-masse  at  the 
head  of  the  gangway,  there  to  wait  until  their  goods 
were  pitched  over  to  them  from  the  tug.  At  least  one 
hour  they  were  kept  on  the  watch,  (three  or  four  hun- 
dred of  them,)  not  daring  to  allow  their  attention  to 
be  diverted  for  a  moment,  fearing  that  in  the  interval 
some  unjust  claimant  might  carry  off  their  chattels 
and  effects,  or  what  they  seemed  to  dread  almost  as 
much,  they  would  be  tossed  below  in  the  ship's  hold, 
where  there  was  no  possibility  of  getting  at  them 
until  the  vessel  reached  port,  and  not  even  then  with- 
out vexatious  delays.  Some  of  the  boxes  and  chests 
were  very  heavy.  Light  or  heavy,  it  was  all  the  same  ; 
over  they  came  with  a  toss,  down  upon  the  unprotected 
heads  of  these  poor  women  and  little  children.  There 
would  be  an  outcry,  a  half  dozen  arms  thrown  up  to 
ward  off  the  force  of  the  blow  and  then  the  article 
whatever  it  was,  passed  from  hand  to  hand,  over  the 
heads  of  the  people,  until  it  reached  its  owner  and  was 
carried  off  in  triumph. 

One  young  girl  I  was  particularly  interested  in 
watching,  and  had  noticed  for  the  neatness  of  her 
dress  and  the  pleasant  expression  of  her  face  ;  who 
had  stood  right  in  the  centre  of  the  crowd,  where 
she  had  been  knocked  down  three  times,  each  time 
coming  up  again  with  undaunted  spirit,  as  if  resolved 
not  to  yield  until  she  had  secured  her  treasure,  and 
at  last  it  turned  up  in  the  shape  of  a  small  box. 
If  she  was  happy  in  its  possession,  I'm  sure  I  was 
greatly  relieved  to  see  her  out  of  harm's  way ;  but 
I  could  not  forget  her  anxious  and  distressed  looks, 


FB  OM     A  i:  R  <>  A  D. 

and  T  thoughl  of  her  in  the  nighl  and  wondered  how 
Bhe  felt  as  she  lay  bruised  and  suffering  in  her  bunk 
below. 

This  is  the  tii'-t  day  thai  I  have  fell  inclined  to 
make  the  efforl  to  write,  and  indeed  the  first  morning 
thai  the  weather  seemed  calm  enough  to  make  il  p 
sible  to  trace  the  letters  legibly.  We  have  passed 
through  a  Beven  days'  Btorm  (long  enough  to  satisfy 
any  reasonable  person)  of  wind  and  rain  that  lashed 
old  ocean  into  a  fury  of  wrath  and  foam,  subjecting 
nearly  all  the  passengers  to  the  necessity  of  keepi  _ 
below,  either  in  the  Baloon  or  their  state-rooms. 

J ,  who  has  heretofore  considered  himself  pi 

against  sea-sickness,  did  no1  escape  entirely;  and  I 
was  tucked  away  in  my  berth  for  two  day-.  But 
after  that  I  managed,  with  considerable  effort,  to 
dress  and  stay  n}>  all  day,  and  this  was  somethi 
boasl  of,  as  only  three  other  ladies  were  al>l<'  t<>  accom- 
plish the  same  feat,  li  is  one  thing  to  make  u\>  your 
mind  to  get  "/'  and  quite  a  different  thin--  t<>  <;,,■,■_,/  out 
the  good  ,••:.*•!  nt  I  on  when  the  vessel  is  pitching  and 
tossing  aboul  ;  for  ii  is  quite  as  likely  that  by  Borne 
sudden  propulsion  you  may  land  on  your  head  in  the 
efforl  to  get   yourself  up  to  a  presentable  appearan 

From  experience,  and  after  having  Lad  a  g 1   many 

hard  bumps,  I  would  advise  the  uninitiated,  that 
"  those  that  are  down  need  tear  no  fall."  And  taking 
that  lowly  attitude,  without  affected  condescension, 
discarding  looking-glasses,  crimps,  and  ornamental 
furbelows,  as  vanities  pertaining  only  to  terra-firma, 
they  will  he  Baved  an  infinite  amount  of  vexation, 
avoid  the  suffering  of  bruised  limbs  and  a  nulled 
temper.  I  am  sorry  to  Bay  thai  my  'proverbially  neat 
and  orderly  habits  have  fallen  into  disreputable  and 
slovenly   indifference,  under   the   degrading    influence 


S68  HOME     LETTERS. 

of  sea-sickness,  that  concentrated  essence  of  all  misery 
combined. 

A  storm  of  such  long  ■  continuance  and  terrific 
violence,  at  this  season, — October, — is  a  very  unusual 
occurrence.  Capt.  Brooks  informs  us  that  he  cannot 
recall  during  his  whole  sea-faring  experience,  one  of 
equal  severity  during  this  month.  Whether  we  were 
in  real  danger  at  any  time,  I  know  not;  but  during 
Sabbath  and  Monday  nights  the  vessel  pitched  and 
rolled  fearfully.  The  timbers  creaked  and  shivered 
under  the  force  of  the  waves  and  the  pressure  of  the 
sea,  until  we  felt  that  we  were  doomed  to  destruction  ; 
but  God  in  his  infinite  mercy  and  goodness  carried  us 
through  all  the  danger  in  safety,  and  beyond  all  harm 
into  His  blessed  sunshine  of  to-day. 

Now  let  me  tell  you  something  about  our  fellow- 
voyagers  ;  at  least  concerning  those  who  sit  at  table 
beside  us.  Capt.  Brooks  is  our  centre-piece,  at  the 
head  of  the  board,  a  fine-looking  Englishman  of  portly 
presence ;  when  his  duties  oblige  him  to  absent  himself 
from  table,  J fills  his  position  with  entire  accept- 
ance to  the  company.  I  count,  number  three,  with 
little  to  say  ordinarily,  but  on  all  occasions  an  atten- 
tive listener.    Beside  me  sits  Mrs.  Col.  L.  L ,  a  bride 

of  six  months,  who  is  interesting,  chatty,  agreeable, 
amiable,  and  kind,  but  above  all,  a  devoted  admirer 
of  the  Colonel,  her  husband,  who  is  in  the  regular 
army,  and  a  graduate  of  West  Point.     Mr.  and  Mrs. 

C ,  the  parents  of  the  bride  (when  at  home)  reside 

in  Brooklyn.     They  have  all  been  travelling  in  Europe 

for  six  months.    Mr.  C must  be, — as  we  suppose, — 

a  man  of  wealth.  Mrs.  C is  a  comely  and  well- 
preserved  matron  of  forty-five  or  fifty,  very  kind 
hearted,  and  to  me,  very  communicative,  detailing  all 


I  n  <>  1/     A  B  S  0  .1  D. 

the  particulars  aboul  the  Colonel's  affectional art- 
ship  and  the  wedding.  Eo\n  "Hattie"  was  dressed, 
how  sweel  and  lovely  she  looked,  and  how  much  Bhe 
was  admired,  etc.,  etc. 

NTexl    to    Mr.  C    —  sits    Mr.    L         ,  a   gravt    and 
'potential    man    in    his   own    estimation,   who    mak 
sapient   speeches  between   the   pauses  in  conversation, 
impressing    no  om    bu1    himself  with    their   w  i-'  1«  >i 1 1. 

His    vis-a-vis    is    Mr.    F ,   well    named,   a    Bturdy 

Englishman,  sharp  witted,  and  as  stimulating  and 
pungent  as  horseradish.  Be  seasons  our  after-dinner 
conversations  with  his  piquent  remarks  and  humor- 
ous Btories.  The  gallantries  he  proffers  to  Miss 
II  — ,  (his  next  neighbor,)  rendered  with  such 
mock    gravity,    are    a    source    of   daily    amusement. 

Mrs.    II ,   who   sits    beside    her    daughter,    is   the 

wife  of  "Miles   O'Reilly,"  (the  army  correspondent, 
an    Irish   lady,  who   is  out   of  health,  and   has   been 
spending  some  months  with   her   relatives  across  the 

Sc;l. 

Mr.  G ,  by  what   right,  or  claim,  presuming  to 

occupy  a  Beat  at  the  Captain's  table,  we  are  at  a  1"-- 
to  know;  coarse  and  brutish  in  appearance,  odious 
in  face  and  manners,  he  is  an  offence  to  all  who  sit 
in  his  presence,  particularly  so  to  the  gracious  little 

lady,  Mrs.  S ,  who    must    accept    the   civilities  of 

the  tabic  at  his  hands.  She  is  Bmall  and  delicate 
in  person,  neat  and  trim  in  figure,  with  large,  loving 
blue  eyes,  and  a  low,  pure  forehead.  Her  dainty 
little  hands  look  as  if  they  never  Lad  any  more 
menial  occupation  than  the  arrangement  of  her  own 
toilet,  although   she   tells   me   she    is   the   mother  of 

three  little  ones,  at  home,  in  New  Haven.     Dr.  S . 

her  husband,  is  a  terrible  sufferer  from  an  internal 
disease,   the   exact    nature   of  which    neither    himself 


370  HOME     LETTERS. 

nor  his  physicians  seem  quite  able  to  determine. 
The  paroxysms  of  pain,  the  agony  of  which  is  so 
extreme  that  remedies  which  under  ordinary  con- 
ditions of  the  system  would  destroy  life,  only  allay 
the  severity  of  his  torture.  Rehearsing  the  particu- 
lars of  his  case  to  J ,  he  told   him  that   he   had 

frequently  taken  at  one  dose  sixty  grains  of  opium, 
and  that  his  malady  had  baffled  the  combined  skill  of 
some  of  the  best  physicians  in  Europe  and  America. 
It  is  a  sad  affliction,  and  one  that  called  out  all  our 
sympathy  for  both  husband  and  wife. 

Saturday  night,  and  we  hope  our  last  but  one  on 
ship-board,  and  a  diverting  and  merry  one  it  was 
to  all,  through  the  kind  offices  of  some  of  the  young 
gentlemen,  who  for  the  amusement  of  the  passengers 
exerted  themselves  to  get  up  a  musical  entertain- 
ment, interspersed  with  stories   and   speeches.     J 

gave  them  "  Brother  Higgenbottom's  Experience," 
which  called  out  shouts  of  applause  ;  Captain  Brooks 

sang  a  sentimental  love  song,  and  Mrs.  L a  duet, 

with   a   lady   whose    name   I   did   not   learn.     Major 

0 gave  us  the  "  Poor  little  grasshopper  that  was 

yanked  up  by  a  voracious  turkey  gobbler  coming  up 
behind;"  it  was  too  funny!  This  same  Major  is  a 
good  reconstructed  Texan  rebel,  as  clear  and  lucid 
as  a  sunbeam,  understanding  himself  and  the  true 
position  of  affairs  in  the  South  perfectly.  He  offered 
us  a  toast,  "General  Grant,  our  next  President,  the 
most  illustrious  man  from  Maine  to  Georgia."  After 
that  we  sang  "  America,"  and  "  God  save  the  Queen," 
in  compliment  to  the  vessel  and  the  English  officers. 
Then  we  all  dispersed  to  our  subjacent  quarters. 


/•'/.'  0  V     A  B  II  <>  .1  1>. 

Sabbath  morning  was  bo  pleasanl  and  Bpring-like,  thai 
the  ladies  dressed  earlj  and  walked  ap  and  down  the 
deck  until  the  hour  for  religious  servic<  I  ptain 
Brooks  read  the  Episcopal  service  al  the  usual  hour, 
half  pasl  ten,  with  fervid  impressiveness.  Then  fol- 
lowed a  very  excellenl  extempore  sermon,  delivered  by 

1  >r. ,  of  Chicago,  a  Baptisl  professor,  with  whom  we 

had  exchanged  some  pleasanl  wordsas  he  passed  in  and 
out,  modestly  and  unassumingly  among  the  other  pas- 
sengers. Clothed  in  sombre  drab,  we  had  no  thoughl 
thai  he  could  claim  a  ministerial  office,  bu1  this  sermon 
proved  his  undoubted  righl  to  till  the  position,  as  one 
called  of  Grod,  a  worthv  Bervant  to  bear  his  Master's 
message.  This  last  Sabbath  day  is  in  brighl  contrasl  to 
the  first  stormy  one  after  leaving  home  in  June;  and 
the  diversity  in  our  feelings  is  quite  as  marked.  Then 
we  were  sail  at  parting,  now  we  are  light-hearted  in  an- 
ticipation of  soon  meeting  those  who  are  dearer  to  us 
than  all  the  w&rld  beside,  parents,  children,  and  valued 
friends,  all  whom  we  love  so  well,  and  who  appear 
doubly  dear  since  this  separation  has  given  us  a  more 
realizing  sense  of  our  attachment,  and  our  dependance 
upon  their  affection  and  sympathy.  God  bless  "/<<  and 
all  with  His  tender  mercy,  and  restore  us  in  safety  to 
each  other  on  the  morrow. 

Monday  morning.  At  daybreak  we  had  a  pilol  on 
board;  all  is  excitemenl  and  bustling  business-like  ac- 
tivity on  the-  steamer,  as  we  are  rapidly  approachii  a 
New  York.  The  hay  is  filled  with  vessels  of  all  si 
and  descriptions.  Our  lasl  preparations  are  made  for 
going  on  shore,  and  the  very  thoughl  of  it  —  >  soon 
going — makes  my  blood  tingle;  in  imagination  I  can 
see  the  group  of  loving  ones  waiting  to  welcome  us 


372  HOME     LETTERS. 

home,  dear  home,  and  dearer  friends,  we  shall  soon  be 
with  you  now. 

Last  night  my  busy  brain  was  in  such  a  whirl  of 
excitement,  I  could  not  sleep.  Upon  a  tide  of  pleas- 
urable emotions  I  was  borne  back  in  imagination 
over  our  whole  journey,  our  starting  out,  and  our 
landing  at  Queenstown;  the  city  of  Cork,  with  its 
squallid  beggary  and  suffering  destitution  came  up ; 
the  Castle  and  lovely  groves  of  Blarney,  with  the 
inaccessible  stone;  Killarney's  beautiful  lakes,  flowers, 
and  moss  covered  Abbey;  the  wild  and  rugged 
pass  of  Dunloe  ;  Dublin's  royal  chapel,  so  impressively 
lovely  in  its  rich  and  massive  carvings  and  painted 
glass  ;  Armagh,  the  birth  place  of  our  mother;  Belfast, 
busy  and  bustling  in  trade ;  Londonderry,  Tilly  Arden, 
Craig,  Portrush,  and  the  G-iant's  Causeway,  a  world's 
wonder  and  the  traveller's  disappointment.  Our 
never-to-be-forgotten  and  glorious  ride  down  the  coast 
to  Bally-Castle,  Cushendall,  Grlenarm  and  Larn,  back 
to  Belfast. 

Our  midnight  sail  across  the  channel  to  Liverpool, 
up  to  mighty  London,  over  to  incomparable  Paris  and 
its  varied  and  captivating  attractions.  Then  my 
thoughts  travelled  to  Brussels,  Waterloo  and  Ant- 
werp, with  its  treasures  of  art  and  quaint  old  build- 
ings ;  the  magnificent  Cathedral  with  its  exquisite 
spire  and  delicate  traceries.  To  Holland,  with  her 
amphibious  and  paradoxical  peculiarities.  Moordyke, 
Rotterdam  and  the  Hague,  the  very  embodiment  of 
wealth  and  luxury.  To  Amsterdam,  all  bustle  and 
plodding  activity,  glittering  in  the  gayest  colors, 
the  antique  and  curious  old  gables  with  their  pointed 
fronts,  the  canals,  the  trees  in  the  street,  and  the 
arching  bridges,  the  peasants  in  their  gilded  head 
ornaments  and  fantastic  caps. 


h  R  0   M      .\  i:  i;  0  A  />. 

To    Emmerich,    Dusseldorf,   and    Cologne,   with    Lte 
beautiful  Cathedral,  always  building,  I  ob- 

lentz,    its    fortifications   and    our  exhilarating    mirth 
'provoking    ride    to    Stolzenfels.      To    the    Rhine,    its 
bridge   of  boats   and    its    life    of    moving    trade, 
vines  and    rocks,    it-   castles,   village    , 
and    fortresses.     Our  chilly   night   ride   to   \Viesbad< 
passed    in    review,    it-   springs    and    Kursaal,    Frank- 
fort,  and    Dannecker's    transcendenl    Ariadne.     Hom- 
burg,     its      gorgeous      "Conversation      House"     and 
charming    gardens;     Frankfort    again,    Mayence    and 
Worms.       Heidelberg,    the    soporific    old     town     and 
it-  divided  church,  the  University  and  colossal   mag 
nit  ude  of  the  vast  old  ruins. 

Baden-Baden,  beautiful   for  situation,   Bale,  Ziiri< 
and     Lucerne's    picturesque    quay    and    preeminently 
lovely  lake.     Fliielen,  Altorf,  Alpnach,  and  the  Briinig 
pass.  Our  Alpine  flowers  and  maiden  minstrels,  Brienz, 
our  sail  across  the  lake  to  <  riessbach  and  our  dang 
walk  in  darkness,  followed  by  tin  and  enrapt- 

uring illumination  of  the  gushing  waters,     [nterlaken, 

■ 

tin-  Jungfrau  in  rose  tints  and  shining  -i:  foun- 

tain  lit'  unceasing  joy,  ever  present,  w  :  aubba< 

and   ii  -  "  scarf  of  mist." 

Lauterbrunnen'  a  and  cultivated  -  and  over- 

hanging precipices.  The  beautiful  valley  of  Grind 
wald  and  it-  wonderful  glaciers:  Brienz,  Meyrine 
and   Hoff.     Our  early  ride  at   day-dawn,  "  chai  or- 

teurs,"  it-  novelty  and  exhilaration:  the  mountain 
scenery  so  superlatively  --rand:  the  peaks  90  sharp  and 
bold;  the  precipices  so  frightfully  perpendicular;  the 
rocks  so  jagged  and  impending;  and  the  colors 
earth  and  stone  so  rich.  Oh!  it  was  an  indescribable 
and  awe-inspiring  view  of  the  enormous  granite  heart 
of  the  Alps. 


$%  HOME     LETTERS. 


o 


Handeck's  wild  and  surging  waters  and  the  hyper- 
borean night  passed  at  the  Grimsel  Hospice.  The 
Rhone  glacier  and  my  faithful  carriers  ;  the  valley 
and  its  magnificent  road ;  the  calvary  stations  and 
road-side  shrines,  so  inaccessible  and  numberless ; 
Jacob  Snyder  and  his  little  white  pony  ;  Brieg  and 
the  baths  of  Luck  and  their  aquatic  patrons.  Minister, 
Visp  and  Sion,  with  its  castellated  pinnacles ;  Mar- 
tigny,  Villeneuve,  and  Lausanne  with  its  beautiful 
"  Beau-Rivage."  Lake  Leman's  heaven  blue  waters 
and  the  prison  of  Chillon,  so  quiet  and  so  cold. 
Geneva,  Calvin's  home,  his  grave  and  Cathedral ; 
the  swift  Rhone  rushing  under  the  bridges,  with  the 
"  Grand  Monarch  "  overlooking  it  all. 

Neuchatel,  Dijon,  and  Paris  again  with  its  whirl 
of  excitement  and  fascinating  pleasures.  Boulogne, 
Graves-end  and  London,  Westminster  Abbey  and  the 
illustrious  dead;  the  Parliament  house  and  Tower; 
Oxford  and  its  Colleges;  Stratford,  and  Chester  with 
its  quaint  old  rows,  antique  walls  and  watch  towers ; 
Liverpool  and  its  famous  docks,  the  "  City  of  London" 
putting  out  to  sea  in  a  furious  storm.  Our  European 
trip  ended,  and  we  on  our  way  home. 

All  this  passed  before  me,  a  resplendent  and  brilliant 
panorama,  moving  majestically  and  rapidly,  recalling 
the  scenes  that  never  can  be  erased  from  memory's 
tablets.  How  could  I  sleep  with  such  a  busy  retro- 
spective brain,  that  was  filled  with  the  charming, 
ever-changing,  captivating  scenes,  that  had  absorbed 
time,  attention  and  feeling  for  four  consecutive 
months. 

And  now  in  closing  these  Journal  Letters,  I  desire 
that  the  last  words  written  should  all  be  words  of 
gratitude  and  thankfulness  to  God,  our  Heavenly  Father ! 


/■  /,'  0  i/    .1  B  S  dad. 

thai  be  did  in  Bia  own  good  providence  bo  order 
events  thai  it  seemed  wist  and  proper  thai  we  Bhould 
make  this  journey,  and  that  His  blessing  and  protect- 
ing care  baa  followed  as  through  all  our  way,  keepii  a 
a-  free  from  barm,  danger  and  accident,  and  is  now 
carrying  us  home  again  in  safety  and  comfort.  M. 
His  blessings  continue  and  abide  with  us,  now  and 
evermore,  and  with  our  dear  children.  May  they  a#  be 
His;  and  lli>  name  shall  have  all  praise,  in  time 
and  throughoul  eternil  v. 

M.  C.  A. 
October  .'/.   1867. 


376 


HOME     LETTERS, 


FOURTH  OF  JULY  IX  PARIS. 


Paris. 
July  6,  1867. 

The  Press.—"  All  parties  seem  to  agree  that  the 
anniversary  of  American  Independence  was  never  be- 
fore so  effectively  represented  in  the  Old  World  as  it 
was  last  night  in  the  gorgeous  banqueting  hall,  of  the 
Grand  Hotel,  the  most  magnificent  establishment  of 
its  kind  in  Europe.         *  *         *  *  * 

"The  committee  of  arrangements  was  composed  of 
the  following  gentlemen :  J.  W.  Forney  of  Pennsylva- 
nia, W.  Pembroke  Fetridge  of  New  York,  Edgar  Mills 
of  California,  Daniel  Dougherty  of  Pennsylvania, 
James  Milliken  of  Pennsylvania,  Edwin  R.  Shepherd 
of  JSTew  Jersey,  Alfred  Lockwood  of  California,  E. 
George  Squire  of  New  York,  and  C.  H.  Harkness  of 
Pennsylvania  ;  and  they  were  most  attentive  to  their 
duties,  but  too  much  credit  cannot  be  given  to  Mr. 
Fetridge  for  the  organization  of  the  whole  affair.     *    * 

"  The  visitors  began  to  arrive  precisely  at  eight  o'clock 
p.  m.,  and  at  nine  o'clock  the  company  entered  the  ban- 
queting hall,  the  band  playing  'Hail  Columbia,  happy 
land,'  and  James  Milliken,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia,  who 
had  been  appointed  chairman  by  the  executive  com- 


/■•  i;  n  1/     .1  /;  K  0  A  i) . 

mittee,  took  his  place  al   the  head  of  the  middle  table. 
He  was  supported  on  his  righl  by  Hon.   A.  ••.  Curtin, 
Ex-Governor  of  Pennsylvania,   and    Hon.   Joseph    Al- 
lison,   Presidenl    of   the   Courl    of  Common    Pl< 
Philadelphia,  and  on  his  lefl    by    Hon.  S.  B.   Ri 
United  States  Commissioner  to  th<  I         ressoO        qs, 
now  in  session  in   Paris,  (of  which   Prince  Napole'on 
president,)  for  the   unification  of  the  coinage   of  the 
world,  and  Elliot  C.  Cowden,  Esq.,  of  New  5Tork,oneof 
the  Commissioners  to  the  Universal  Exposition. 

"Over  three  hundred  ladies  and  gentlemen,  repre- 
senting mosl  of  the  States  of  the  American  Union, 
took  seats." 

The  dinner  was  opened  by  prayer  from  the 
REV.  .1.   ELDRIDGE, 

Resident  Clergyman  of  the  American  Protestant  Cha] 

1 [e  said : 

0  Lord,  thou  who  arl  the  source  of  all  our  lit**-  and 
being,  sanctifyour  hopes,  we  pray  'i  nctify 

unto  us  this  joyous  occasion  upon  which  we  have 
assembled  this  evening.  IT  Thou  bless  those  viands 
unto  our  body,  wilt  Thou  also  bless  the  sentiments  to 
be  presented  to  our  minds  and  hearts;  wilt  Thou 
thyself  take  upon  Thee  the  guidance  of  our  ways; 
bless  US  as  individuals  and  l»le>s  us  as  a  people,  and 
remember  those  dear  friends  vvho  are  connected  by 
kindred  ties  beyond  the  seas;  and  bless  thai  dear  land 
which  we  love  so  much  ;  sanctify  unto  it  all  those  en- 
joyments  which  thou  dost  grant,  and  save  for  it  tic 
institutions  which  Thou  hast  vouchsafed  to  it,  so  that 
tlie\  may  be  a  blessing  and  praise,  now  and  forever 
more.     Amen. 

35 


S78  HOME     LETTERS. 

The  chairman  then  proposed  the  following  toasts : 

"  THE    DAY    WE    CELEBRATE  1 " 

Music. — "  The  Star  Spangled  Banner" 

[The  whole  audience  rising,  and  making  the  saloon  ring 
with  their  cheers  and  applause,  renewed  again  and  again, 
the  hand  winding  up  with  "  Yankee  Doodle  !  "] 

The  next  toast  in  order  was 

"  THE    PRESIDENT    OF   THE   UNITED   STATES." 

Music. — "  The  Bed,  White,  and  Blue"  and  nine  hearty 

cheers. 

The  next  toast  was 

"  HIS  IMPERIAL  MAJESTY  NAPOLEON  III." 

Music. — "Josephine's  Hymn"  and  nine  hearty  cheers. 

After  which  the  following  was  proposed  and  drank 
standing,  and  in  profound  silence : 

"  THE    MEMORY    OF    GEORGE    WASHINGTON    AND    ABRAHAM 

LINCOLN." 

After  some  very  complimentary  remarks  the  chair- 
man introduced  "  our  distinguished  townsman 

DANIEL   DOUGHERTY, 

the  most  eloquent  orator  and  advocate  of  the  Philadel- 
phia Bar." 

He  commenced  with  some  humorous  remarks  that 
kept  the  table  in  a  roar,  especially  when  he  described 
his  attempts  to  learn  French  and  to  hold  conversation 
with  the  natives.  He  read  the  following  despatch, 
which  he  had  just  received  from  some  American  friends 


/'/;  0  M     A  /•'  S  OAD. 

also  celebrating  the  day  al    Berne,  the  capital  of  >v. 
zerland  : 

"The  Americans  in  Switzerland  Bend  kind  greeti 
to  their  American  frienda  and  countrymen  in  Paris,  on 
this  our  anniversary." 

Signed, 

"John  II.  <  'if  ambers 

And  otJu         '  Vhiladi  Iph 

After  the  applause  excited  by  this  pleasing  incident 
had  subsided,  Mr.  Dougherty  resumed  in  a  moi  us 

strain  as  follow-  : 

Wr  turn  our  thoughts  to-day  to  where  our  hearts 
now  are  and  will  forever  be — the  dear  land  we  «;ill 
our  country  and  our  home.     It  i-  natural  that  on  this 

occasion,  touched  by  the  remembran< f  friends  far 

away,friends  that  make  life  doubly  precious,  we  should 
be  sad,  and  long  for  home;  yel  a  moment's  reflection 
will  dispel  the  gloom  and  give  place  to  unbounded  joy 
that  here,  in  the  cent  it  of  the  mightiesl  empire  of 
Europe;  here  amid  the  fascinations  of  this  queen  of 
cities,  crowded  with  monarchs  and  men  of  every  clin  . 
with  the  gracious  leaveof  hi-  Majesty  the  Emperor — 
we  join  in  spirit  with  our  countrymen  at  home  in 
celebrating  the  anniversary  of  the  day  that  enrol' 
America  among  the  nation-. 

This  foreign  sojourn,  these  wondrous  sights,  this 
mingling  with  strange  people  this  marvellous  exposi- 
tion of  the  t  riumphs  of  labor  and  fruits  of  peace,  while 
giving  each  of  us  exquisite  delight,  cannoi  tail  to  im- 
prove us  all,  and  lit  as  to  -;ill  better  discharge  the 
exalted  duties  of  American  citizenship.  They  vividly 
illustrate  and  clothe  with  reality  the  historic  studi  - 
of  youth;  dispel  the  petty  prejudices  of  local  education; 


SSO  HOME     LETTERS. 

give  a  wider  scope  to  the  mind,  and  a  more  generous 
current  to  the  heart ;  warn  us  to  profit  by  the  wisdom 
and  avoid  the  errors  of  ages  ;  cultivate  a  taste  for  and 
heighten  an  appreciation  of  art ;  challenge  our  pro- 
foundest  respect  for  systems  of  government  to  which 
we  are  opposed  ;  awe  us  into  reverence  for  a  religion 
to  which  a  majority  dissent ;  teach  us  to  look  with  a 
friendly  eye  on  foreign  nations,  and  inspire  us  with 
kindly  sympathies  for  all  mankind. 

But  do  they  charm  us  into  forgetfulness  ?  Do  they 
allure  us  from  our  allegiance  ?  ~No — a  thousand  times 
no.  They  intensify  our  devotion  to  that  land  where 
Nature  herself  assumes  a  grander  mien  and  speaks  in 
sublimer  tones  the  wonders  of  the  Deity  I  The  differ- 
ence between  Europe  and  America  is  as  wide  as  the 
ocean  that  rolls  between  them.  Here  everything 
wears  the  aspect  of  age ;  at  home  everything  tokens 
the  freshness  of  youth.  Here  every  spot  is  cultivated 
to  provide  the  comforts  of  life ;  our  surplus  will  feed 
the  world,  with  millions  and  billions  of  acres  yet 
untouched,  waiting  and  wooing  the  ploughshare. 
Here  genius  caters  for  a  class ;  there  its  inventive 
faculties  are  as  diversified  as  the  wants  of  men.  Here 
education  is  a  privilege ;  there  it  is  a  right.  Here 
honors  fall  from  the  throne;  there  they  rise  from  the 
people.  In  Europe  religion  leans  on  governments  for 
support ;  our  altars  are  the  free  offerings  of  the  gen- 
erous, charitable,  and  devout.  In  Europe  language  is 
limited  to  a  kingdom  ;  our  glorious  English  tongue  is 
heard  all  over  a  continent  and  will  soon  encircle  the 
earth.  In  Europe,  changes  of  dynasties  are  only  ac- 
complished by  bloody  revolutions  ;  with  us  the  nation's 
beloved  head  is  martyred  by  a  traitorous  murderer, 
and  it  does  not  for  a  moment  disturb  the  placid  flow 
of  the  nation's  life.     Europe  fixes  her  fervent  gaze  and 


FR  0  1/     A  B  B  OA  D. 

proudly   pointa   to   the   trophies  of  the   mighty   pj 
America,  with  one  hand   resting  on  her  brief  history, 
mmed  with  glories,  turns  her  radian  1   face  full  upon 
the  future,  and    waves  the  way  of  pro  equality, 

prosperity,  and  peace!  And  oh  '.  whal  tongue  or  mind 
ran  conceive  or  Dame  her  history  when  i1  will  ha 
dated  as  far  into  the  future  as  Europe's  does  in  the 
past!  5Tes,  dear  native  land  of  the  American  Union, 
that  rose  amid  the  fires  of  the  Revolution,  thai  passed 
triumphantly  through  foreign  wars,  thai  crushed  the 
gigantic1  rebellion,  we,  thy  absenl  children,  renew  our 
vows  of  fidelity  and  love,  and  pray  God,  with  all  the 
fervency  of  our  souls,  to  watch  over  thee  in  thy  aim  to 
maintain  amicable  relations  with  the  <  >M  World,  while 
preserving  in  all  their  integrity  the  liberties  of  the 
\.\v. 

The  next  toast  proposed  by  the  chairman  was: — 

"  The  i  h: Ai.Tii  of 

JUDGE  JOSEPH    ALLISON, 

Of  Philadelphia:' 

The  toast  was  honored  enthusiastically. 

Judge  Ajjjson  responded: 

Mr.  Chairman,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen :—  In  answer- 
ing to  your  call,  I  crave  your  pardon  in  advance,  it"  I 
give  utterance  to  a  few  words  only,  of  that  of  which  I 
know  your  hearts  are  full,  of  friends,  of  distanl  home, 
and  native  land. 

Forgetting  doI  the  occasion  which  lias  brought  us 
here,  and  having  now  before  me  so  many  of  my  country- 
men,  and  those  who  represenl  so  well  the  peerless  beauty 
of  our  land,  what  other  theme  would  be  so  proper  uow, 
or  receive  from  von  more  gracious  audien 


3S%  HOME     LETTERS. 

I  know  I  do  you  no  injustice,  when  I  claim  for  you, 
as  I  do  proudly  for  myself  to-night,  with  the  soil  of 
France  beneath  our  feet,  and  the  folds  of  her  banner 
floating  o'er  us,  that  we  glory  most  of  all,  that  our  title 
to  distinction,  our  patent  of  nobility,  is  the  simple  pass- 
port, which  tells  to  every  one,  that  we  are  American 
Citizens. 

The  Imperial  Roman  in  his  day,  when  the  Empire 
ruled  the  world,  and  the  heel  of  the  conquering  legion 
was  on  every  neck,  excelled  us  not  in  this.  He  had  no 
pride  greater  than  our  own ;  no  claim  more  just  than 
that  we  now  assert,  when  gazing  on  our  country's 
flag,  whose  radiant  hues,  and  glittering  gems,  and 
sentiment  divine,  are  all  borrowed  from  the  skies,  and 
clasping  it  to  our  hearts  we  cry,  our  native  land  forever ! 

Upon  no  other  day  in  all  the  year  can  we  so  well  in- 
dulge this  boast ;  or  looking  back  upon  the  brief  period 
of  our  nation's  life,  rise  to  so  just  a  consciousness  of  our 
high  estate,  or  take  a  more  prophetic  view  of  our  ap- 
proaching day  of  greatness  and  renown. 

How  few  indeed  the  years  since  a  little  spot  but  here 
and  there  upon  our  Eastern  coast,  contained  the  germ 
of  that  vast  Empire,  which  now  with  onward  march, 
faces  the  glory  of  the  setting  sun.  And  it  seems  but 
yesterday,  since  a  little  band,  with  uplifted  hands  and 
trusting  hearts  placed  our  infant  nation  on  its  feet, 
and  bade  it  live,  upon  the  imperishable  basis,  of 
virtue,  liberty  and  independence.  And  upon  this  our 
natal  day,  when  less  than  a  century  has  passed,  how 
great  its  claim  upon  our  warmest  admiration,  our 
deepest  reverence,  our  purest  homage ;  now  that  the 
stars  upon  its  banner  to  which  we  turn  with  loving 
look  to-night,  have  lighted  again  the  pathway  of  mil- 
lions to  freedom,  and  its  stripes  though  bathed  in  blood, 
having  scourged  the  oppressor  for  his  crime,  has  driven 


/••/.'  0  i/     A  B  1:  OA  l'  ■  8 

oppression  from  our  land.     A  thousand  fold  more  dei 
to  ii-  is  this  emblem  of  our  country's  glorj . 
as  thai  country  Btands  to-day,  without  one  blol  to  mar 
its  beauty,  or  mantle  our  cheek  with  Bhame. 

I   aay  this  not,  Mr.  Chairman,  in  the  Bpiril  of  m< 
idle  declamation.     Nor  do  \  thus  Bpeak  in  disparag 
ment'of  thai   nation,  in  whose   midsl   we  dv  od 

whose  guests  we  are  to-night.  Mos1  profoundly  do  I 
reverence  the  historic  greatness  and  the  sacred  mem 
ries  of  France,  and  in  the  presence  of  thai  Bpiril  [am 
awed,  when  recalling  the  triumphs  which  have  here 
been  won ;  triumphs  of  the  gifted  sons  and  daughters  of 
this  land,  in  literature,  in  science,  in  art,  in  government, 
and  in  war.  Adopting  the  language  of  the  Man  of 
Destiny,  as  applicable  in  some  degree  to  this  place  and 
hour,  I  ask  you  to  remember  that  from  these  pyramids 
of  departed  greatness,  cenl  nries  are  looking  down  on  us, 
and  beg  thai  you  join  with  inc.  and  do  homage  to  the 
heroic  men  and  women  who  sleep  around  ns  in  unnum- 
bered thousands.  But,  beyond  all  this,  there  is  a 
memory  to  which  none  of  us  can  be  indifferent.  Dead, 
indeed,  would  we  be  to  every  sentiment  of  honor 
if  we  could  forget,  thai  France,  in  the  day  of  our 
se\  trial,  and  in  the  very  agony  of  our  extren* 

need,  was  the  friend  and  ally  of  our  country.  With 
gratitude  we  should  remember,  thai  France  crossed  an 
ocean  of  three  thousand  miles,  with  her  armed  legions 
and  her  ships  of  war,  to  battle  for  the  life  and  freedom 
of  our  country,  and  scaled  with  blood,  hercompacl  with 
the  youngesl  horn  of  natioi 

Need  I  remind  you,  that  amid  the  Btorm  and  can 
of  battle,  Washington  and  Lafayette  were  nol  divided? 
The  sun  which  lighted  up  the  field  of  Ybrktown,  shone 
on  them  as  joint   victors  over  a   common  foe.      In   the 
halcyon  days  of  peace  they  were  friends,  and  me1 


0SK  HOME     LETTERS. 


o 


84 


brothers  when  the  strife  for  freedom  ended.  Patriots 
and  heroes  both  ; — they  were  not  born  to  die  and  be  for- 
gotten, their  names  will  flourish  in  immortal  youth, 
treasured  in  the  inner  temple,  in  the  heart  of  hearts  of 
freedom's  worshippers,  on  every  soil,  and  of  every  clime. 
Who  then  shall  part  and  divide  between  us  the  in- 
heritance of  their  glory  ?  or  the  splendor  of  that  ex- 
ample which  brightens  as  the  years  grow  old,  and  which 
dying  they  becpieathed  to  us  as  their  richest  legacy. 

Let  us  now  join  with  our  dearest  thoughts  of  home, 
these  radiant  memories  of  ancestral  friendship ;  and 
here  put  up  our  prayer,  that  our  country  may  clasp  the 
hand  of  France,  never  but  in  love ;  that  our  banners 
may  always,  as  they  do  to-night,  entwine  in  graceful, 
loving  folds,  as  emblems  of  that  peace,  which  should 
abide  between  us, — evek. 

But,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  we  must  not  be  selfish  in 
our  happiness,  nor  can  I  fail  to  remind  you,  that  this 
day  is  elsewhere  consecrated  to  the  sacred  cause,  that 
has  brought  us  to  this  festive  board,  in  the  gay  capital 
of  France. 

Millions  of  hearts  are  beating  high  with  a  joy  to- 
night, which  to  them  is  a  new  born  treasure,  for  they, 
with  you,  are  freemen  now ;  freemen  beneath  the  shel- 
tering folds  of  that  old  flag,  which  hitherto  has  been, 
even  to  them,  as  a  beacon  in  the  sky ;  and  which  at 
last  came  leading  down  the  soldiers  of  the  Union,  who 
like  John  Brown's  soul,  kept  marching  on,  till  victory 
and  triumph  were  achieved.  Not  won  were  these  with- 
out a  costly  price  ;  and  let  us  now  pay  sacred  tribute  of 
respect  to  those  who  died  for  liberty,  for  country,  and 
for  each  one  of  us.  And  while  we  rejoice  in  the  results 
of  their  struggle  for  union  and  freedom,  let  us  ever  keep 
bright  the  memory  of  their  heroic  deeds,  and  green  the 
graves  where  noble  martyrs  sleep. 


/••  R  0  U     A  J;  S  0  .!  D . 

By  doing  this  we  will  learn  to  prize  still  more  and 
more,  a  governmenl  and  country,  cemented  anew  at 
pricel<  as  coal  of  treasure  and  of  life,  and  feel  that  m 
their  work  is  done,  the  t  rusl  is  ours. 

But  it  ia  well  thai  we  doI  alone  review  the  past,  but 
from  <»ur  present  stand-point,  Look  ou1  upon  the  dawn- 
ing glory  "t'  our  advancing  empire.  All  possess  a  con- 
scious pride,  in  remembering  jusl  how  we  stand  to-day 
before   the    world;    as   tested    by    rebellion's   gigantic 

power,  a  government  "of  the  people,  by  the  ; pie  and 

for  the  people,"  has  passed  through  the  fires  and  is  not 
consumed;  the  authority  of  the  Union  ia  supreme  over 
every  inch  of  Land,  which  as  of  old,  was  subjecl   to  its 
power.     <  >ur  banner  floats  o'er  mountain   and  valli 
from  ocean  to  ocean,  and  dominates  alike  tin-  Savan- 
nas  of  the  rebellious  South  and  the  boundless  plains 
of  our  Northern  frontier.   With  the  principle  now  estab- 
lished, that  the  Union  shall  be  forever  maintained,  a-  a 
Uiwcv  of  defence,  as  a  rock  against  which  all  future 
efforts   a1    disunion  and   rebellion    shall    waste    their 
Strength   in  vain,  may  our  country  make  progress  y< 
byyear  in  education;  in  power;  in  wealth;  in  true  fn 
dom ;   in  sound  morality;   in  reverence  for  law;   and 
above  all,  in   submission  to  the  will  of  that    Power, 
which  hath  made,  and  upheld  us  a  nation. 

I  give  as  a  sentiment 

••OUR   COUNTRY." 

••  Land  of  forest  and  of  r<>ck, 

Of  clear  blue  lake  and  mighty  river, 

Of  mountains  reared  aloft  to  mock 

The  storm's  career,  the  lightnings'  sh' 

My  own  green  land  forever." 
20 


3S6  HOME     LETTERS. 


RECEPTION 
AT  THE  FOYER  OF  HORTICULTURAL  HALL. 

Monday,  October  28,  1867.— 5  p.  m. 

"  An  intellectual  and  brilliant  company  assembled  at 
Horticultural  Hall  last  evening,  to  do  honor  to  Judge 
Allison  by  giving  him  a  suitable  reception  upon  his 
return  from  Europe.  The  hall  was  brightly  lighted, 
and  at  half-past  five  o'clock  the  participants  of  the 
evening  gathered  upon  the  stage. 

"  Judge  Allison  soon  after  entered  the  room, 
escorted  by  the  committee  in  charge,  and  an  agreeable 
half  hour  was  spent  in  exchanging  congratulations. 
At  six  o'clock  the  company  proceeded  to  the  foyer, 
where  an  elegant  banquet  was  spread,  the  tables  being 
ornamented  with  flowers,  fruit,  etc.,  etc.,  and  the  walls 
fittingly  draped  with  the  American  colors.  In  the 
centre  of  the  room  was  hung  a  fine  photograph  of  the 
guest,  and  over  it  the  inscription,  '  Welcome  Home.'' 
After  the  viands  had  been  discussed,  Mr.  Clay,  the 
Chairman,  expressed  the  welcome  of  the  company  to 
Judge  Allison,  who  responded  feelingly,  thanking  the 
brethren  of  the  Bar  for  their  reception,  which  he  said 
was  most  gratifying.  He  gave  a  very  interesting 
narrative  of  his  visit  to  Europe,  abounding  in  humor- 
ous allusions,  graphic  descriptions  and  eloquent  reflec- 
tions, which  received  constant  applause,  concluding 
with  a  powerful  contrast  between  Europe  and  America, 


F&  0  '/     J  B  B  0  A  D. 

lull  of  patriotic  fire,  which   made  the  tables  vibrs 
and  the  walla  ring  with  sympathetic  enthusiasm  which 
his  tribute   to   his  native  country  called    forth.     The 
Bench   of  the   Common    Pleas    being   toasted,   -1 1 1<  1  - . 
Ludlow    responded,   by    alluding    to    the    honorable 
history  of  thai  Court,and  the  presenl  high  cha  of 

his  colleagues,  the  judges  and  the  lawyers.  Ee  closed 
with  an  earnesl  and  powerful  tribute  to  Judge  A.llison. 
Judge  Peirce  being  called  on,  replied  in  a  speech  full 
of  Learning  and  interest,  speaking  of  the  origin  and 
high  purpose  of  the  Judiciary,  and  the  importanl 
position  which  it  occupies  in  the  community.  Tin 
dore  Cuyler,  Esq.,  James  Page,  Esq.,  and  others,  ma 
the  company  reluctant  to  separate. 

"  Altogether  it  was  a  delightful  gathering  and  a  well 
deserved  tribute  to  a  gentleman  who  is  alike  an  al 
judge  and  an  esteemed  and  honorable  citizen;  who 
coiiu^  hack  with  his  regard  strengthened  by  absence 
for  this  community,  which  is  glad  t<>  express  its  high 
appreciation  of  him." 

Philadelphia  North  American,  ber  29,  L867. 


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